Hornet rear damper problem

[xPK1x]

Hello,

I’m very new to RC and have encountered a problem while putting together the rerelease Hornet! I don’t understand how to attach the little plastic part with the ball to the end of the piston shafts. The rear dampers are supposed to have a part with a ball that is then gripped by the damper mounts and I just can’t figure it out. I watched a video of someone building them and he seemed to simply screw them together. Mine don’t appear to have threads at all.. I will include pictures to illustrate what I am talking about. I hope someone can help me figure this out! Thanks in advance for any tips or insight I may receive from you guys out there! 

[El Gecko]

The holes in the ball ends are not threaded by the factory, so the first time may require a bit more force to cut the threads.

Do like the manual says and hold the shock shaft with pliers while screwing on the ball end.

[Snappy1]

I sometimes use another set of pliers to hold the shock shaft also, but wrap the shock shaft in material or a tissue to not scratch/damage the shaft.

[xPK1x]

Thank you so much for all the replies! I put a thick rubber band between the pliers and piston shaft and used all the strength I could muster up! I got them to screw on as much as I possibly could so I hope its sufficient!! seriously, thanks so much! It’s been a few days and now I can finally move on and get this thing finished, haha

[SupraChrgd82]

21 minutes ago, xPK1x said:

Thank you so much for all the replies! I put a thick rubber band between the pliers and piston shaft and used all the strength I could muster up! I got them to screw on as much as I possibly could so I hope its sufficient!! seriously, thanks so much! It’s been a few days and now I can finally move on and get this thing finished, haha

The upper shock shaft in the photo looks a little scarred up from the pliers. Might be glare.  If it is scratched, do you have some super fine sandpaper to take the burrs off?  If not it will damage the seals and leak.

[Frog Jumper]

In the future, you can use an M3 machine screw to cut the threads in the bottom cap, then it will go into the shock piston shaft much easier and with out so much force on the pliers.

[alvinlwh]

If you are building a number of kits, get a pair of shocks pliers. They make the job easier. 

[KEV THE REV]

7 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

In the future, you can use an M3 machine screw to cut the threads in the bottom cap, then it will go into the shock piston shaft much easier and with out so much force on the pliers.

Beat me to it Terry

[sosidge]

7 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

In the future, you can use an M3 machine screw to cut the threads in the bottom cap, then it will go into the shock piston shaft much easier and with out so much force on the pliers.

An M3 tap is even better.

[Frog Jumper]

18 minutes ago, sosidge said:

An M3 tap is even better.

As is a set of shock pliers…

[xPK1x]

On 4/18/2022 at 7:51 PM, SupraChrgd82 said:

The upper shock shaft in the photo looks a little scarred up from the pliers. Might be glare.  If it is scratched, do you have some super fine sandpaper to take the burrs off?  If not it will damage the seals and leak.

dang. yeah, they are a little scratched up. I was thinking of picking up some fine sandpaper anyway so I might as well do that! thanks for the tip

[xPK1x]

On 4/18/2022 at 7:59 PM, Frog Jumper said:

In the future, you can use an M3 machine screw to cut the threads in the bottom cap, then it will go into the shock piston shaft much easier and with out so much force on the pliers.

very good to know, thank you so much for the tip

[xPK1x]

23 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

If you are building a number of kits, get a pair of shocks pliers. They make the job easier. 

this is my first build so far but I will look into those for the future, thank you for the tip!

[KEV THE REV]

I use smooth faced pliers with rubber sheet wrapped round the damper shaft , or some Lunchbox etc damper rubber buffer tubing sliced on one side , grips well with pliers  , no damage...Works on alu damper bodies too to get the caps off