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Posted
On 5/15/2022 at 6:29 PM, KEV THE REV said:

It's all doable if you have the parts and adapt a bit here and there , sounds like you're on the right track . The SS front post could be raised up ( not sure by how much) with a bush that fits in the servo saver and a longer bolt - job done

So I think the Ranger originally came with an extension piece that went over the RR or SS body mount to make it longer and locked in place with a grub screw.

For those interested, the overall length from face to face of the Ranger body mount is 72mm:

image.thumb.png.8a894c5446ebe8f593a125cbbb94c92d.png

  • Like 1
Posted

So I tried this out . For a basically as close to original rear damper fitting that is smoother than original I drilled out the clamp / roll bar inserts to 3mm , then openend up the roll bar holes - which are 3mm up and down but narrower in width - sort of eliptical , then bolted a long M3 bolt through , M3 washer to space the damper top away from the clamp ( might need a thicker washer to clear the coil-over collar , but this only bring the damper more upright which also good . ) and this puts it in a more upright position which is smooth in operation whereas before you could feel the bind on compression as the damper rod was out of line and under sideways tension due to the positioning and I think this where a lot of the leaks came from right from the start b.i.t.d . , premature wear on the brass insert and seals .The last pic shows the damper in what will be the new postion with the mod done .

20220517_180927.jpg

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20220517_180907.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

Loving this thread, it is bringing out the massive SRB nerd in me 😂

It’s dragging me down memory lane into a 💰 pit😁

  • Haha 3
Posted
15 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Bookmarked but pricey 😢

Sign of the times unfortunately across the board.

Still, if you get your main site comp entry in and walk away with the SS then that would save a few coins 😉

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Sign of the times unfortunately across the board.

Still, if you get your main site comp entry in and walk away with the SS then that would save a few coins 😉

Sadly I’ve already seen your entry!!! That puts me second before  I start😢

Posted
10 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Sadly I’ve already seen your entry!!! That puts me second before  I start😢

Dang, sorry, now I feel bad. With the prizes on offer I’d say there will be a lot of entries near the end. Worth a shot though. I don’t have a WW2 or any wheelies for that matter so l’d be happy for that.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Sign of the times unfortunately across the board.

Still, if you get your main site comp entry in and walk away with the SS then that would save a few coins 😉

Just realised that price was AU$ not £ so not as bad as I thought!!!

Posted
7 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Dang, sorry, now I feel bad. With the prizes on offer I’d say there will be a lot of entries near the end. Worth a shot though. I don’t have a WW2 or any wheelies for that matter so l’d be happy for that.

 

 

I may have a plan for that, different to your suggestion but I seem to have 20 Tamiya’s that I can get at !!! Wish I had a drone!!!

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted

How structural is the rear cage on the SRB chassis. If it’s removed will it affect the strength! I am using one chassis to run a Scorcher and and a Ranger clone but I don’t want the exhaust on the Ranger so it’s quite a faff to remove each time I change bodies. Ideally I want to fix it to the Scorcher body but if t do that you can’t get the exhaust through the cage!!!

Posted
1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

How structural is the rear cage on the SRB chassis. 

If you're referring the stock plastic one, I'd say not structural at all, with the exception of motor protection in the event of an endo.   Perhaps the metal aftermarket one but even that would be a challenge to say.  

Posted
53 minutes ago, OnTheTrail said:

If you're referring the stock plastic one, I'd say not structural at all, with the exception of motor protection in the event of an endo.   Perhaps the metal aftermarket one but even that would be a challenge to say.  

I just took it off to have a look. If I was running torsion bars it would be ok but I think because I’ve got coilovers attached to the roll bar it needs a little support. Anyway I think I have a solution:ph34r:

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