Mad Ax 9313 Posted August 13, 2023 Fortunately, the parts would arrive before the week was out. How simple the job is when you have the right part I didn't have any replacement screws of the right size, so I fitted my electrician-friendly screw. It went all the way in this time. Easy when you have the right part. Treal draglink now fitted 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9313 Posted August 13, 2023 How that my truck has genuine Treal parts installed, I can put some genuine Treal stickers on the shell. Unfortunately that was all I was prepared to do. The sticker sheet supplied with the draglink has literally no duplicate stickers, so I can't put any stickers on either side of the body and have the design be symmetrical. This annoys me way more than it has any right to. I now need to buy another Treal part so I can do a symmetrical sticker install. While I had the truck on the bench, I moved the rear upper link mount from the lowest to the highest position. Apparently this will help to control wheelies, although I don't know how. Thinking about it logically, from the perspective of how much leverage is applied to the chassis by the rotating force of the axle via the link, I'd have thought mounting it lower down would reduce the tendency to wheelie - but then I am not a physicist, and also I am quite stupid, and tend to overthink everything. I took it outside and gave it some welly and it immediately turned itself on its roof, which is pretty normal, so I suppose I can at least agree that it is fixed and ready to go back on the shelf for another 8 months 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87lc2 2666 Posted August 14, 2023 Glad you got her fixed up! I have torn down approximately 12 LMTs and that is not uncommon on a truck right from the factory. Different rear toe hubs, wrong caster blocks, stripped hardware, etc. They should have sold them as kits... I run nearly all of my race truck with the rear upper link in the highest hole, definitely cuts down on the wheelies. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Badcrumble 4203 Posted August 14, 2023 Glad you got it sorted @Mad Ax. My improper use of a Dremel means those cut-off wheels are 'bounce wheels' as they tend to rebound off what I really want to cut. I'll need some help from somewhere if I ever need to cut something with any precision! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9313 Posted August 15, 2023 16 hours ago, Badcrumble said: My improper use of a Dremel means those cut-off wheels are 'bounce wheels' as they tend to rebound off what I really want to cut My technique is to hold it close to the spindle (so close I sometimes catch the spindle lock) with my left hand, with the base of my left hand resting on whatever I'm cutting, like I'm writing with a pencil on paper (except I'm right-handed - explain me that..?) This means I can guide the fly-off wheel in with greater precision and hold it steady as it bites. I'll support the weight of the Dremel with my right hand so it doesn't try to pivot. I find being slow and gentle gives better results than trying to grip it too hard, which just seems to set off an oscillation and makes it bounce and break the wheel. Although often I'll put it down on the bench and come back 10 minutes later to find the wheel is broken anyway 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Badcrumble 4203 Posted August 15, 2023 I'll try to remember to re-read this post before my next attempt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
