ABS bodies - what non Tamiya paint have you used?

[JeffSpicoli]

So I'm looking to get a color that isn't found in the TS line for Tamiya.

I'm wondering what paints you guys have used for ABS bodies - have you gone to paint stores and had spray cans mixed up custom?  Have you used a Duratrax or Testors?    

Would like to hear what your experience has been.

[Kol__]

Hey Jeff, my only experience so far is using an automotive matt clear over the Tamiya TS paint and stickers on my Blitzer Beetle shell. No reaction with TS paint or the Tamiya stickers. 3 coats and it seems way more durable than Tamiya TS paint and clear coats I think that from now on I'll use only the automotive paints on the Tamiya hard bodies, mainly just for the durability factor.

[KEV THE REV]

Generally I only use auto paints , never had any problems . I have had custom colours mixed by specialists in the past

[tim.senecal]

i have used tamiya paints, testors paints, pactra paints, rustoleum, and duplicolor without problems, i have mixed tamiya on top of rustoleum and tamiya on top of duplicolor.  i have mixed testors and pactra.

[alvinlwh]

I airbrush, so answer is any paint. Just prime it and away I go. Testor is not commonly available in the UK so I do not use that. I had use Tamiya acrylic, GSI Mr Color, etc... 

[Kol__]

5 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I airbrush, so answer is any paint. Just prime it and away I go. Testor is not commonly available in the UK so I do not use that. I had use Tamiya acrylic, GSI Mr Color, etc... 

Is airbrush safer health wise than spray cans @alvinlwh? With no propellant etc. is it safer?

[Mad Ax]

I almost always use Halfords own brand automotive paint.  I'll use Tamiya fine primer if it's a nice new body, but Halfords plastic primers work well on older bodies that I'm reconditioning.

I like that Halfords paint works better than Tamiya in lower temps, and the can doesn't need heating to get a fine spray, it's way cheaper per litre than Tamiya, one can is enough for anything, and there's a great range of genuine automotive colours and lacquer finishes - but what I mostly love is that Halfords is a 2 minute drive from home, opens late in the evening and keeps great stock.  Perfect for that last minute "now, let's paint a body" moments.

[alvinlwh]

1 hour ago, Kol__ said:

Is airbrush safer health wise than spray cans @alvinlwh? With no propellant etc. is it safer?

"safer" is a relative word and it really depends. This can be TLDR.

Even though I am HSE qualified, will wear the appropriate PPE and safety measures while at work, I almost never wear masks when spray painting in my hobby life, even if indoors with shut windows and doors. Why? The amount exposed when spraying a 1/10 car body once in a while is far lower than someone doing 1/1 cars for hours everyday. Further more, generally the masks one can buy from B&Q are just particle masks, at best good at protection against asbestos and covid. While one can get vapour filters, they costs a lot and only have a lifespan measured in hours, or at best, days. So unless I "borrow" some vapour filters from work, it will be very expensive very quickly.

Still here? Read on.

Having said that, I still will wear mask when doing heavy spraying with closed doors. Usually, I spray straight out of the shed with it doors opened with paint floating all over the garden. However, when the wind is strong or blowing in the wrong direction (blowing back into my face), I spray with the doors shut. Heavy spraying means more than a few ml at once (1ml of airbrush paint gives the same coverage as 5ml from spray can, so cheaper, easier storage, etc). Why? Because if I do not do so, my snot will turn olive drab (or whatever color I was spraying), a sure sign that I am breathing it in too much. Sometimes with really heavy spraying with the more dangerous paints, I can get light headed or an headache. However, (most) masks will not stop this.

One advantage airbrush have over spray cans is the spread, and I am not talking about your model. The tiny paint overspray from an airbrush is far smaller than a spray can. Decades ago before I switch over to airbrush, I find that after a year of spray canning, everything in my living room are covered with a layer of unremovable "dust". These are tiny paint that floated around and once settled on a surface, are impossible to remove. Whereas with an airbrush, this is a far smaller problem. This shows you the spread and reach of a spray can.

You mentioned propellant and so I will address that specifically. Generally, propellant are butane or some flammable gas. Storing a large number of them, if in a professional setting, will need a FRA with measures against fire and explosion. Spray cans do rust and leak, sometimes undetected. While some airbrush paints do use flammable thinners, there are others which use water (for example). Personally, I like the more "dangerous" ones as they seem to spray better for me although there are also experts with the safe paints.

Like everything else in life, safe or not really depends on your own risk assessment. I used to be a spray can guy until I learnt to use the airbrush about 15 years ago. Now I even decant the paint from my cans to use in the airbrush.

Now, it sounds like airbrush is the perfect solution to everything, it is not. While it can make great looking finishes, the paint thickness is usually too thin for a runner and will scratch off in no time. I am at core a static model guy and spray cans tends to be too thick and cover up the details (for example, it fills in the panel lines on a 1/24 car) so airbrush is my main solution, but static models don't move, so thin paint is not a real problem. If you want thicker paint, you will be looking more at a spray gun, which is essentially a big airbrush. If I am in your situation, I will get 2 bodies, a runner body that is just spray canned or even unsprayed and a display body with the custom paint airbrushed on.

Sorry for the long post, just a lot of my random thoughts on spray cans and airbrush.

[KEV THE REV]

11 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

I almost always use Halfords own brand automotive paint.  I'll use Tamiya fine primer if it's a nice new body, but Halfords plastic primers work well on older bodies that I'm reconditioning.

I like that Halfords paint works better than Tamiya in lower temps, and the can doesn't need heating to get a fine spray, it's way cheaper per litre than Tamiya, one can is enough for anything, and there's a great range of genuine automotive colours and lacquer finishes - but what I mostly love is that Halfords is a 2 minute drive from home, opens late in the evening and keeps great stock.  Perfect for that last minute "now, let's paint a body" moments.

Totally agree with all of that - except my Halfords is a whole 4 minutes away from me

[Re-Bugged]

I mostly use Duplicolour automotive paints off the shelf.
The spray nozzle off a Tamiya can fits on them as well so a finer mist is possible from the Duplicolour can.

But if I’m chasing a particular colour then I’ll go to the paint shop that mix Valspar brand rattle cans. Both have been compatible with each other.

I have also used a self priming enamel (White Knight I think it was) takes a week to dry but very durable on a Buggy Champ runner. Limited colours though.

I’ve recently used Montana spray’s to. These are available at good art supply shops. My wife used them for her kids art classes and fortunately gets them wholesale so works out half the price of automotive paint for me now. Separate nozzles are available to get the mist required. They do some funky stuff and has also been compatible with Duplicolour.

[JeffSpicoli]

On 5/18/2022 at 6:28 PM, Kol__ said:

Hey Jeff, my only experience so far is using an automotive matt clear over the Tamiya TS paint and stickers on my Blitzer Beetle shell. No reaction with TS paint or the Tamiya stickers. 3 coats and it seems way more durable than Tamiya TS paint and clear coats I think that from now on I'll use only the automotive paints on the Tamiya hard bodies, mainly just for the durability factor.

I'd be curious to know if they are waterborne (garbage) or oil based.  Too many car companies have gone to waterborne which is easier to chip.

[JeffSpicoli]

15 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

I mostly use Duplicolour automotive paints off the shelf.
The spray nozzle off a Tamiya can fits on them as well so a finer mist is possible from the Duplicolour can.

But if I’m chasing a particular colour then I’ll go to the paint shop that mix Valspar brand rattle cans. Both have been compatible with each other.

I have also used a self priming enamel (White Knight I think it was) takes a week to dry but very durable on a Buggy Champ runner. Limited colours though.

I’ve recently used Montana spray’s to. These are available at good art supply shops. My wife used them for her kids art classes and fortunately gets them wholesale so works out half the price of automotive paint for me now. Separate nozzles are available to get the mist required. They do some funky stuff and has also been compatible with Duplicolour.

I am testing montana now but it dried with a slight texture even thought it claimed glossy on the can.

I heated the can in hot water before spraying.

I wonder if I didn't shake long enough or what.   Hmmmmm.

 

[Re-Bugged]

30 minutes ago, JeffSpicoli said:

I am testing montana now but it dried with a slight texture even thought it claimed glossy on the can.

I heated the can in hot water before spraying.

I wonder if I didn't shake long enough or what.   Hmmmmm.

 

The Montana paint can be wet sanded, just make sure you spray plenty on 👍🏻

[Nikko85]

I use hycote and they work great. Really fast drying with nice coverage.

 

[Kol__]

On 5/19/2022 at 10:11 AM, alvinlwh said:

Sorry for the long post, just a lot of my random thoughts on spray cans and airbrush

Not sure how I managed to miss your post! Thanks mate, interesting stuff👍