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Pierced

Screw sizes for Tundra High Lift Build

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Hi,

 I'm a first time builder. Actually it's my 1st ever on doing this kind of hobby. Hope you guys can be patient with me. :)

So far this is where I am(3rd build). However, I have some challenges with the screw sizes. I am trying to locate BA4 which has a 2x8mm size. To some extent these are the only screws I have from BA (Bag A) and BG (Bag G).

Anyway you guys can help me? :) Do I need to include the head when measuring the screws length? My main issue is I can't seem to find the 2x8mm. Seems like I only have the 3x8mm.  

 

Thanks in advance! :)

3x81.jpg

3x82.jpg

3x101.jpg

3x102.jpg

3x103.jpg

3x104.jpg

BA.jpg

BG.jpg

Finished.jpg

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The BA4 screws are 2mm thread x 8mm thread length.

The manual helpfully shows the screws 1:1 scale so you can hold a screw on top of the pic in the manual to tell you which is which.

HTH.

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The black ones in your bins are 3mm. The length does not include the head. The 2mm screws are tiny and usually silver. As Tamiyabigstuff said you can match them up to picture in manual 1:1 ratio. Might not be exact on the micrometer but close.

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10 hours ago, Tamiyabigstuff said:

The BA4 screws are 2mm thread x 8mm thread length.

The manual helpfully shows the screws 1:1 scale so you can hold a screw on top of the pic in the manual to tell you which is which.

HTH.

 

9 hours ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:

The black ones in your bins are 3mm. The length does not include the head. The 2mm screws are tiny and usually silver. As Tamiyabigstuff said you can match them up to picture in manual 1:1 ratio. Might not be exact on the micrometer but close.

Hi guys! Thank you for the response! Appreciate it! :)

Yep, I have compared it to the manual and all the screws I have is thicker than what is on it.

"Tiny and usally silver" - This is new information. I didnt have this type of screw on BA (Bag A) & BG (Bag G).

I also have contacted my local dealer and informed me that Tamiya never makes any mistakes and will visit them this Tuesday to bring the screws that were on those bags. They are also willing to give me these screws incase it is not there. 

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Tamiya is really good at giving the kit more than needed. They do some times bag screws in different bags, with a different #, example: bag BA listed in manual and actually they are in a bag BC. May be this is your problem? Look for the 2mm in another bag. Also look in every piece of cardboard of the kit,  they may be hiding inside something. 

The kits RARELY come shorted!                  I did get a Monster Beetle short of decals once, so it does happen.

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The color of the drawings reflect the color of the actual screws. From your instructions, BA bag, BA1, 2 and 3 are black screws while BA4 is a silver one. 

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10 hours ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:

Tamiya is really good at giving the kit more than needed. They do some times bag screws in different bags, with a different #, example: bag BA listed in manual and actually they are in a bag BC. May be this is your problem? Look for the 2mm in another bag. Also look in every piece of cardboard of the kit,  they may be hiding inside something. 

The kits RARELY come shorted!                  I did get a Monster Beetle short of decals once, so it does happen.

 

8 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

The color of the drawings reflect the color of the actual screws. From your instructions, BA bag, BA1, 2 and 3 are black screws while BA4 is a silver one. 

Guys!!!!

 

I think I found it! Eureka! :) :)

I hope this is the one. Specially my Celtics losing todays game, it would be nice to get my mind off of them.. 

Just tell me that the screw protrudes or sticks out at the back.

This should be correct? :)

 

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That will work. Yes it looks right. But for measuring length, measure from under the head don't include the head. I use a metric ruler for length.

Glad you figured it out. Happy building! 

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2 hours ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:

That will work. Yes it looks right. But for measuring length, measure from under the head don't include the head. I use a metric ruler for length.

Glad you figured it out. Happy building! 

@Tamiya Fan 1 if not for you I wouldn't be able to double check again on my screws.

"The 2mm screws are tiny and usually silver" - This fixed my issue.

 

Thanks a lot here! Specially to @Tamiya Fan 1! Appreciate it!

Open photo

 

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Glad I could help!! 

Another thing, In the back manual pages has pictures of the BAG contents, might help sort things out sometimes.

The build is coming along. Have fun, that's what it's all about. Tundra is a nice looking truck.

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Hello guys,

 Need some help with regard to the jumper screw that connects to the chassis. It doesnt tighten up. I believe I have the correct screws. 
 

 Hope to hear from you guys!

Thanks in advance!👍😬

 

4AD84F15-8AE6-4F6F-A1BE-268066371DFD.jpeg

85910172-E0B6-46A6-83E0-E2F43215DBAB.jpeg

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Also, I have the correct ball connectors. How do I fit the steering rod? 😬✌️

E0B6CFF6-8658-465F-AC68-488BD7EFA594.jpeg

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23 hours ago, Pierced said:

Also, I have the correct ball connectors. How do I fit the steering rod? 😬✌️

E0B6CFF6-8658-465F-AC68-488BD7EFA594.jpeg

Press it on. Note that there are actually 2 possible positions, what I call a single click or double click. The single click one is looser and the joint can twist around while the double click is sit right down and the joint can only rotate. I usually go for the second one as it is a stronger connection unless that will cause binding or stiffness. 

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6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Press it on. Note that there are actually 2 possible positions, what I call a single click or double click. The single click one is looser and the joint can twist around while the double click is sit right down and the joint can only rotate. I usually go for the second one as it is a stronger connection unless that will cause binding or stiffness. 

Ok. So should I be able to fit in using my thumb or it needs pliers? Thanks!👍

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43 minutes ago, Pierced said:

Ok. So should I be able to fit in using my thumb or it needs pliers? Thanks!👍

If fingers don't work, use a tool. Tamiya ones tend to be quite soft so fingers should work. 

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For the loose screw, I have used a little longer self tapper from the kit to get a tighter grip into the plastic. Usually few extras in a kit.

For steering turn buckle,  I just use pliers, it is easier on the fingers.

Also the drawing in the manuals for linkages are also in 1:1 ratio, so you can set them on drawing to size it's length.

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1 hour ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:

For the loose screw, I have used a little longer self tapper from the kit to get a tighter grip into the plastic. Usually few extras in a kit.

For steering turn buckle,  I just use pliers, it is easier on the fingers.

Also the drawing in the manuals for linkages are also in 1:1 ratio, so you can set them on drawing to size it's length.

Longer self tapper? 😬✌️

had to google that! Hehehe 

Now I know.. hehehe 

 

Thanks!☺️👍

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Sometimes the screws for the front bumper support on the kits won't tighten like you like or feel comfortable with. Seems some times Tamiya should have designed it to take a longer screw? Even the longer one might not have that tight feel in some places.

Self tapper is the screw you are matching up with the manual. (step 11) I think you know that by now. The other style screw is a threaded screw. Which screws into threads which have been tapped, such as threads in the frame or a nut and should be lock-tighted. 

I hope you are using bearings as you build and not the bushings that the kit comes with. All builds should have ball bearings installed while building. Roles much easier and less friction. Much easier to do now than later. Even if you have to go back now and do it. (still easier now then later) Hope I'm not to late on that advise as the Tundra is coming along now. You can buy them in kits, all you need in 1 bag. (Hobby shop or online) If you know this all ready, sorry.

I would do a MFC-02 while building also as it will be easier now than later. The MFC-02 is a light, sound, vibration unit, and ESC all in one unit. Complete, all you need kit. Don't know if you are going this route but thought I would mention it. Makes the truck much more realistic. They are other ways to go but the Tamiya MFC-02 is the easiest way to go. Designed for the kit so to speak.

Good luck with the build.

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On 6/7/2022 at 1:30 AM, Tamiya Fan 1 said:

Sometimes the screws for the front bumper support on the kits won't tighten like you like or feel comfortable with. Seems some times Tamiya should have designed it to take a longer screw? Even the longer one might not have that tight feel in some places.

Self tapper is the screw you are matching up with the manual. (step 11) I think you know that by now. The other style screw is a threaded screw. Which screws into threads which have been tapped, such as threads in the frame or a nut and should be lock-tighted. 

I hope you are using bearings as you build and not the bushings that the kit comes with. All builds should have ball bearings installed while building. Roles much easier and less friction. Much easier to do now than later. Even if you have to go back now and do it. (still easier now then later) Hope I'm not to late on that advise as the Tundra is coming along now. You can buy them in kits, all you need in 1 bag. (Hobby shop or online) If you know this all ready, sorry.

I would do a MFC-02 while building also as it will be easier now than later. The MFC-02 is a light, sound, vibration unit, and ESC all in one unit. Complete, all you need kit. Don't know if you are going this route but thought I would mention it. Makes the truck much more realistic. They are other ways to go but the Tamiya MFC-02 is the easiest way to go. Designed for the kit so to speak.

Good luck with the build.

 Thanks a lot for the reply.. I will try to fix that. 

 

With regard to bearings and bushings. I'm using only the one that comes with the kit. Are we talking about BA21..

No description available.

 No description available.

 

Also, seems like when I bought this, an ESC wasnt included. I am not sure if I can afford an MFC right now. :(

I'm look at a Hobbywing QuicRun 1080 Waterproof Brushed 80A ESC w/ Program Card For 1/10 1/8 Crawler. 

Would this be ok? Also, when you say it will be hard later than now. In my mind, I'm already asking how do I demount these parts if I want to make some changes. Hehehe

image.png

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Also, when installing these I see on youtube that theyre soldering it. I should also be soldering or that's for experience builders and wants update?

TIA! :)

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Pierced -  You want to change bearings BA21basicly bushings and other #'s ( I think 3 different sizes) with BALL BEARINGS. Maybe 30 total. Places sell them as a kit. Search Tamiya Tundra Ball Bearings. Or you can go through the manual and count them up with the different sizes. Best to look in the back of manual at the parts bag contents.

Parts list looks OK. I don't know if you need Savox Servo's, kind of pricey and power consuming. If you have researched and that is what you want then all good. Depends on how you want to run the truck.

Hobbywing ESC is ok they work fine. The MFC-02 comes with everything you need for ESC, lights, sound, and a vibration unit. Works well with "reality like truck". If you are going to bash with it and make it a hard runner the MFC is probably not for you. The Savox servo's higher power draw might be to much for it also and cause shut downs. If you want a nicer truck with realism the MFC goes right in.  To do it at a later date, the truck needs to be taken all apart, and nobody really wants to that. It depends on your plan for the truck? Water proof not necessary either, unless you are going to see and drive through water.

I'm not sure what you need to solder? Be more specific, more info. Most things will be plug and play unless changing battery connectors or something like that.

Hope this helps.

 

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If you are doing ball bearings? You will only need 2 of the 1260 ball bearings as the part that slides in the transmission you want to use 2 of the bushings in the kit as they slide easier than a ball bearing. 

On 5/20/2022 at 11:47 PM, Pierced said:

BA.jpg

BA20, BA21, BA22 are the bushings. Ball bearing sizes would be 1050, 1150, 1260 sizes. I think 2 - 1050, 2 - 1260 (2 bushings used from kit), and 32 or so of the 1150 ball bearings.

The Tamiya Ford F-350 Highlift uses the same bearings so they will work also.

Ball bearings reduce friction making it have less drag, roll easier, and faster.

Now if going through puddles all the time or even worse, the kit bushings probably would be better as they won't rust, but will need to be re-greased periodically.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:

Pierced -  You want to change bearings BA21basicly bushings and other #'s ( I think 3 different sizes) with BALL BEARINGS. Maybe 30 total. Places sell them as a kit. Search Tamiya Tundra Ball Bearings. Or you can go through the manual and count them up with the different sizes. Best to look in the back of manual at the parts bag contents.

Parts list looks OK. I don't know if you need Savox Servo's, kind of pricey and power consuming. If you have researched and that is what you want then all good. Depends on how you want to run the truck.

Hobbywing ESC is ok they work fine. The MFC-02 comes with everything you need for ESC, lights, sound, and a vibration unit. Works well with "reality like truck". If you are going to bash with it and make it a hard runner the MFC is probably not for you. The Savox servo's higher power draw might be to much for it also and cause shut downs. If you want a nicer truck with realism the MFC goes right in.  To do it at a later date, the truck needs to be taken all apart, and nobody really wants to that. It depends on your plan for the truck? Water proof not necessary either, unless you are going to see and drive through water.

I'm not sure what you need to solder? Be more specific, more info. Most things will be plug and play unless changing battery connectors or something like that.

Hope this helps.

 


Hi!☺️
 All of your reply to my posts are very very helpful. This is my 1st time so I really dont have any idea about this. Not a really techy person as well.. 😬
Here’s a clip of the hobbywing being soldered. If it’s plug n’ play then it wont be a problem☺️☺️☺️

https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxjw7Aivmpueg32k2nZgRPmxM-FqG5aqkP
 

The list above is the one I got from my local dealer. Not sure why they forgot the esc.

I will try to cover all your tips. The only thing I’m missing now is time. 😔

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