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Pierced

Screw sizes for Tundra High Lift Build

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The ESC will probably come with a Tamiya plug on it. It is a clear/white bigger plug with a push clip to disconnect. If the battery comes with Tamiya plug, you won't have to solder.

So match your battery to the plug and no soldering required. Look or search pictures of the items you are buying and look at plug ends. One end will be male and one end female to plug together.

There are many different plug ends these days. The difference would to say be "high performance" plugs. Or companies to have there own plugs  just to have it different. The Tamiya plug is a popular one. The ESC should come with the with plug and good chance the battery will also, being a NIMH. But no guarantee so get an "eye ball" on a picture of each connector. 

I use the Tamiya plus with most of my kits. They are said to have more resistance than other plugs and are a little bigger. Really they are fine unless you need the "best". In some cases you do need or want that.

Do Ball bearings, makes such a difference!    Match up ESC plug to battery plug and NO soldering. Many good NIMH batteries out there.

I tried to write this earlier but computer froze up and I couldn't make any moves??

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Ok. So, I bought the Hobbywing 1080 and my local dealer soldered it. 

I did already the servos. Making sure it’s neutral. My question is, why is it only the shift servo that moved and not the gear servo? 
 

I have also snapped those rods into the connector. 

What is this receiver switch as well? I don’t see any of the receiver switch. 
 

8B524370-4F63-4C95-93F0-B32AB75F822B.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Pierced said:

What is this receiver switch as well? I don’t see any of the receiver switch. 

That is the switch that comes out of your ESC although the 1080 switch does not match a Tamiya one and it may not fit and/or the wire is too short to reach the location. You may have to find an alternative location for the switch and use double sided tape instead. 

An example of how I fixed the switch in an alternative location. 

IMG_20210820_120707.thumb.jpeg.ad11eb562d8120aa21dc1e9175b085d2.jpegIMG_20210820_104500.thumb.jpeg.853211f3cf4564c8d6d780da933613d2.jpeg

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3 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

That is the switch that comes out of your ESC although the 1080 switch does not match a Tamiya one and it may not fit and/or the wire is too short to reach the location. You may have to find an alternative location for the switch and use double sided tape instead. 

An example of how I fixed the switch in an alternative location. 

IMG_20210820_120707.thumb.jpeg.ad11eb562d8120aa21dc1e9175b085d2.jpegIMG_20210820_104500.thumb.jpeg.853211f3cf4564c8d6d780da933613d2.jpeg

Thank you! So, can I say that it is ok not to mount it? 

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3 hours ago, Pierced said:

Thank you! So, can I say that it is ok not to mount it? 

It is OK not to mount it if that R1 piece (if that is what you are referring to) serves no purpose and you are mounting the switch somewhere else. 

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17 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

It is OK not to mount it if that R1 piece (if that is what you are referring to) serves no purpose and you are mounting the switch somewhere else. 

Thank you!👍☺️ I think that goes same for R7 & R8 for the mfc control unit, yes?😬

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13 minutes ago, Pierced said:

Thank you!👍☺️ I think that goes same for R7 & R8 for the mfc control unit, yes?😬

Probably yes, if they serve no other purposes. I am not familiar with this vehicle but in my SU-01 example above, the switch mount is also the wing mount, so if I skip that, then I will have no wing. 

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Is this plug & play? Seems the contact is very loose. What’s the connector type? It’s 4mm. 

FCBB986E-4AAE-4269-A5A9-9BE0F890DD15.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Pierced said:

Is this plug & play? Seems the contact is very loose. What’s the connector type? It’s 4mm. 

FCBB986E-4AAE-4269-A5A9-9BE0F890DD15.jpeg

They don't look right, wrong type of bullet/hole combo. The female shouldn't look gold and so nicely round/the male shouldn't be silver in color. 

Tamiya:

6uBDAkB.jpeg

4mm:

Dq6jkAx.jpeg

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18 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

They don't look right, wrong type of bullet/hole combo. The female shouldn't look gold and so nicely round/the male shouldn't be silver in color. 

Tamiya:

6uBDAkB.jpeg

4mm:

Dq6jkAx.jpeg

So I need an adaptor for this. What’s the type so I can ask local stores?

thanks!☺️

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1 hour ago, Pierced said:

So I need an adaptor for this. What’s the type so I can ask local stores?

thanks!☺️

Change one to match the other. Using adaptors will just make a mess of the situation.  I actually don't think adaptors for this exists unless you build your own, which then will be easier to just change the plugs/socket. 

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It’s ok now! ☺️☺️☺️😬😬😬👍👍👍

Needed to tighten pinion..👍👍👍

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Finallyyyyyy!!!

Thank you for all the guide, tips and help!

Appreciate it a lot!☺️
 

5C964FC5-16D6-4B97-9DB0-951488E39576.jpeg

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When attaching the where’s, should these be real tight? Like it doesnt free wheel?

Also, the run time is only at best 5mins then it begins to slow down. 
Am I not charging it correctly or I have to calibrate the hobbywing esc to NiMh battery? I was just plugging it in and just took it from there. 
 

Thanks! When one is able to finish a Kit it makes one very very happy like accomplishing something.☺️👍👍👍

5276C82C-73E0-434B-BA5C-F36807FC80EA.jpeg

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Tighten the wheel and then back the nut back off a little. The wheels should be free spinning by hand. If you have the truck off the ground, you should be able to spin the wheel by hand and they should rotate freely for a turn or two. (if you used bushings and not bearings) Bearings will spin multiple turns. If they don't spin free it will be a huge load on battery and everything else trying to run it. (like the brakes are on all the time) Short run time. The nuts for the wheels has a teflon lock in it and won't unscrew. so no worries there.

ESC usually need to be set first time out. Check instructions.

Battery should last about 30 mins. + , with a 3000mah battery on a full charge. (if new and in good shape) A 3000MAH battery should be charged at about 5 Amps, if charger is capable?

Also if that checks out. Something maybe to tight and binding. Check that the clutch is adjusted right? (transmission) To loose or to tight will cause issues. Has been a long time since I built a Highlift, so not not sure where it should be adjusted to. Maybe another person could help with that one?  (2 - 2.5 turns in, but not sure?)

But if wheels are to tight, will be an issue. Look for something binding through the whole drive train, motor back. Also if pinion gear to tight to the spur gear will create a huge strain and wear gears. (motor will be really hot) Pinion adjustment is a learned thing/feel. You could put a piece of paper (a post it) between gears and then tighten down, pull out paper, and that should be set close to right.

Hope that helps.

 

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Another thought. The little pin that slides in the spindle shaft (in pic.) and hex hub sometimes can be bound when tightening wheel, if pin not placed just right. Like a puzzle piece out of place. Worse if the hub is the plastic one. Tire/wheel will feel locked up. 

Hope you follow what I am saying.

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@Tamiya Fan 1 is hank you so much sir for all the tips! I really appreciate it a lot! I wanted to post a video on it here so you guys who have helped would be able to see the truck drive. Unfortunately we can upload only 4.88MB. 
 

Ok, then. I will loosen the tires such that they are able to free wheel a couple times considering I’m using bushings. 😬

I thought that the  picture I show now should be tighten. Isn’t this the pinion gear? 
 

I will loosen the clutch as well as per instruction. I think I did it right the 1st time.

Fir the battery, I’m only charging it at 3.2A. (Auto charging). I will use 5A then.. ☺️👍

I think with the wheels I just need to loose it a little bit. ☺️👍👍👍

Will uodate once it starts working. ☺️☺️☺️
 

Thanks a lot! Very much appreciated!😬😬😬👍👍👍
 

 

335DB517-418E-4770-8E1D-7DE95497EE4F.jpeg

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About the pinion. I was talking about the mesh of the 2 gears could be to tight or to loose. The picture, BA2 in slotted whole is adjustment for motor /pinion mesh tightness. You may have it right? When I started out , I used the piece of paper trick to be sure. It will put a space between gears while you tighten. 

The brakes usually work when you are going forward then put it into reverse (brake) and the 2nd pull into reverse would be reverse. It doesn't go into full reverse on the first pull of trigger/stick. Now all ESC's are different and may or may not do this. Also some ESC's have to be programed (set) for brake. Turn it on or off. Not all do it or have it the same. You will have to check how yours is done.

If it does go just into reverse on first pull, don't  go full throttle reverse. It will be easier on things. It's all a learning curve. Once you get it running right, you'll figure it out. 

If you had the tires tight that could be all it is. You want them loose enough to get good spin on them. But tighten as much as possible with out loosing that spin. So you don't want it to loose. There is a "sweat spot" Most spin with nut as tight as can be to accomplish this.

 

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Pierced, I gave you wrong info. on wheels. They should turn freely but won't spin freely because they are connected to drive train. I have mostly been building semi's the past many years and was thinking about the front wheels, which will spin. The nut still should be backed off a little

.My bad - sorry.

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On 7/4/2022 at 4:32 AM, Pierced said:

Btw, how does 1 use the brakes? I just use the forward and back throttle..

There is a few "styles" of brake. 

"Standard" (F/B/R): From forward, move to reverse is the brake. Move back to neutral and then back to reverse for reverse movement. AKA double tap method. 

"Delay" (F/B/R): From forward, move to reverse is the brake. Hold it there and reverse movement will happen in a second or so. Only a few ESC works this way, like some Mtroniks for example. 

Racing (F/B): From forward, move to reverse is the brake. There will be no reverse movement as reverse is banned (usually) in racing. 

Crawler (F/R): From forward, move to neutral is the brake. If you move from forward to reverse, reverse movement will happen immediately. Not recommend as it will trash the gears fast. This is not recommended for higher speed cars as just "letting go" of the control from full speed will cause the wheels to lock up instantly. Also, I believe, leaving it in neutral means the brakes are always activated and the car will not roll on a slope. 

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