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1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

Not sure but it’s a separate transfer case in the rear prop shaft that disconnects the back axle and locks it. Does handbrake turns!!

The MK2 Arrma infraction has one of these as well. 

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8 hours ago, Grumpy pants said:

Great progress now,  sorry to read about the migraine 😳

What does DIG stand for? 

DIG is just an axle lock - used to be referred to as rear dig but the 'rear' has been dropped or just not mentioned for years.
It locks the rear axle solid so the truck can make tighter turns but it also helps going over crests on a downhill as the front wheels pull the truck and the rear end is the brake

Can't remember if the GOM dig is lock only or allows for undriven rear axle too

From the old days when 56k dialup was all the rage

 

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1 hour ago, TWINSET said:

DIG is just an axle lock - used to be referred to as rear dig but the 'rear' has been dropped or just not mentioned for years.
It locks the rear axle solid so the truck can make tighter turns but it also helps going over crests on a downhill as the front wheels pull the truck and the rear end is the brake

Can't remember if the GOM dig is lock only or allows for undriven rear axle too

From the old days when 56k dialup was all the rage

 

No is just dig. It works using the opposite direction of travel of the servo from 2 to 1 gear. 

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DEA1D6FC-8696-4FFF-8626-CA12FBD2D813.jpg
0404C211-678C-4D15-867C-B38173BBCD1B.jpg
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2669A2B8-4AD8-42AB-9DA8-180F53BA5A97.jpg
8A23C180-B92F-4518-966D-CCCB04ADF7CE.jpg So put together the drive shafts. Had to drill out a couple of the holes in the couplings as they were moulded over. Simple fix but strange. Added the axles to the links then tried everything. Seems to work ok. The DIG sticks occasionally as @TWINSET warned it might but it seems to free itself with a little bit of forward movement. Next up is the Aeration shocks. New territory for me??

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Did the shocks today. They are to big bore for my building stand so put each one onto a cloth lined vice to hold them upright. Seemed a very messy build. I did low pressure/ middle piston holes for no other reason than it sounded average!!!  They seem well sealed but only time will tell. Fitted some Dynahead wheels just to keep it of the ground.E97AC57E-E8E6-4716-A11A-24DD0BE637C2.jpg
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Next up is the wheels and tyres along with the electrics. I think I’ll be having to be a little inventive with placement of the receiver if I want the ESC to fit under the hood!!!

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This thread sort off died a death when I got to certain point. I did finish the build, I even bought a 6 channel plane radio that had a rotary 6th channel allowing smooth gear changing. It’s sticks but I’m happy with either. Anyhow I ran it a couple of times with the brushless set up and it was bonkers. I never set the esc up properly and unfortunately the default setting seemed to have a healthy drag brake, not the best thing for a fairly large and quite fast rock racer. Result was forward rolls if you backed off too quickly. The final roll broke the roll bar and cracked the bonnet. A little racked off with it I dumped it on top of a wardrobe after having taken the motor out. After a while I decided to sell it but it doesn’t seem to want to go. So I dragged it out again with the idea of setting it up properly and running it again. One issue I’ve always had with it and other cage racers is the look. I really don’t like it!!! So today I set about CAD designing and cutting up old bodies to create a new look. This what I’ve come up with so far. We have a Nissan Titan bonnet and a bespoke CAD designed rear pick up bed. The Titan body actually helps as it gives a little more space for the electrics than the flat stock bonnet. I also dremmeled out the inside of the receiver box so the 6 channel will fit. Work in progress. Awaiting delivery of some plasticard to construct the bed properly. Once it is all done it will be given a coat of paint to bring it all together 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻737E92D2-6A32-4055-AAC1-2C6FF3B3C43F.jpg
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Is the cage a structural part of the chassis assembly or can it be removed completely and a totally separate lexan truck body used on it?

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14 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

Is the cage a structural part of the chassis assembly or can it be removed completely and a totally separate lexan truck body used on it?

Most of the cage comes off so I could do that. The biggest issue is the wheel base it’s 380 mm!!!

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Was thinking something like the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage body might suit it as that has a wheelbase circa 350mm but the rear arches could possibly be altered to fit or the rear bed cut off and extended.

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Was thinking something like the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage body might suit it as that has a wheelbase circa 350mm but the rear arches could possibly be altered to fit or the rear bed cut off and extended.

Oh I’ll have a look .?sound’s doable, I was considering scratch building a basic “Deadbolt/Wendingo style body out of styrene.?weight is not a problem!!! Basically an upside down box with the cage poking through. Have some 1.5 plasticard on order!

Edit: that’s a really good call, thanks. The bodies not terribly expensive. Kyosho state 361mm wheelbase but the body is 561mm which is the kind of length I was looking for. I’m sure with a a bit of creativity something could work.

Edited by Busdriver
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19B6A55A-FE3A-4DBA-8A31-FA2B67CB6165.jpg
just playing, but with 1.9 inch wheels and an Amarok body it looks ok. Going to try the wheelbase at 313mm which seems to be standard size, and get a pickup body and see how it goes. Got all the bits to do new links so maybe later this week

edit now I’ve looked at it more I quite like this!!! The only problem may be the angle of the prop shaft? Wheelbase is around 270 mm. Saves be buying a new body.

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So the last post had an Amarok body and a very short wheelbase. This wasn’t going to work as I think the prop angle would have been too extreme. Whilst hunting through the body shops I can across an L&L body with a 324mm wheelbase but even better it was 240mm wide. It’s a copy Hilux that seems to have had a section added in to make it wider. Perfect for my needs. So I went ahead and set up the axles to 324 in a home made jig then made up some new top and bottom links. Apart from the rod itself all parts are oem so it can all be put back to original spec. 61A55083-ACDA-49CD-82A3-ABD650DB3B50.jpg
BCB93C55-9A87-4DF0-86B4-3E95C0BE1F8A.jpg
73211F52-026B-4E4F-A07E-C54B33DD0BF7.jpg. The dampers are now fitted to the axles rather than the lower links. Again mounting point already there. Then I cut out the body, fitted my new links and this is what you getAB95A4C0-289B-4889-8A3A-2393A8E598D4.jpg
65E69477-47BE-4FA8-83F3-C51B58D68E92.jpg
4AF18CD6-4656-4452-B467-A60EF98FE662.jpg
3630472E-AE05-4448-A1E6-BE85DCA8825F.jpg . It’s only mocked up at the moment as I need to make some body mounts. The back my do with magnets as the bed actually sits on top of the shock mounts. The front needs mounting. Now I’ve shifted the balance even further forward I may place the battery further back and use the original battery tray as a radio/esc tray as it was pretty tight under the original hood. 
Now I have to think of colour for the body? Also really need a roll hoop and some other scale details. Problem is what scale? I’m thinking it’s more 1/8 than 1/10 ?

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27 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

That looks really good!!!

Thanks, I have to admit I’m pleasantly surprised myself!!!! I took a chance on the body and it certainly better than a lot of L&L’s stuff!!! Really thick lexan but with enough detail to make it look ok. Will probably paint some details on the exterior to make a more scale look.

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19 hours ago, Shergar said:

Is the body a RGT Pioneer/FTX Outback Hirock, ahem homage, minus the bonnet scoop? Looks good either way 👍

https://alexnld.com/product/rgt-ex86110-car-body-shell-313mm-wheelbase-for-1-10-rc-vehicles-spare-parts-p86200-1/

I don’t think so as the dimensions are off. It has a 324mm wb as opposed to the norm of 313mm?

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This looks epic. Rather than go bonkers with a brushless system, perhaps something mild to give a really capable trail truck?

I 100% prefer the look the the original cage look (or your homemade effort, no offence!)

 

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5 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

This looks epic. Rather than go bonkers with a brushless system, perhaps something mild to give a really capable trail truck?

I 100% prefer the look the the original cage look (or your homemade effort, no offence!)

 

None taken. The body has really worked well. Half the battle will be to run it on 2s rather than the 3s I tried it originally. It seems much calmer also the shorter arms seems to have tamed its twist on launch!!! I’m away in Scotland at the moment ( oh how I wish I had dad space in my luggage for a crawler) but will order some paint when I get back. I’m thinking either BRG or perhaps Camel yellow?

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1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

Camel yellow

I love my Camel Yellow and will use it again but be prepared to need more coats than other colours. There's something about the colour yellow that makes for inferior paint coverage/translucency/something that no doubt someone with more knowledge (I haven't any!) can explain. 

I like this body. It just looks proper, not overly modern truck styled. And it seems to me a single cab hilux is what a work pickup should be but just isn't on the market any more. 

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It's not a Hilux, but I always love the King Cab paint scheme on this kind of truck.

Yellow and blue could be nice, or make your own blockhead? 

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11 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

I love my Camel Yellow and will use it again but be prepared to need more coats than other colours. There's something about the colour yellow that makes for inferior paint coverage/translucency/something that no doubt someone with more knowledge (I haven't any!) can explain. 

I like this body. It just looks proper, not overly modern truck styled. And it seems to me a single cab hilux is what a work pickup should be but just isn't on the market any more. 

I’ve used Camel yellow before. I have to say as yellow’s go it’s one of the best, but yes yellow opacity has always been an issue

 

11 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

It's not a Hilux, but I always love the King Cab paint scheme on this kind of truck.

Yellow and blue could be nice, or make your own blockhead? 

I think it’s what people would call a generic Hilux!!! It comes with stickers that say Toyota and Hilux. How they get away with the licensing issues I really don’t know.

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14 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

I’ve used Camel yellow before. I have to say as yellow’s go it’s one of the best, but yes yellow opacity has always been an issue

 

I think it’s what people would call a generic Hilux!!! It comes with stickers that say Toyota and Hilux. How they get away with the licensing issues I really don’t know.

Sorry I meant I know the King Cab isn't a Hilux, but I think transferring the paint scheme would work well.

They get away with it because they are made and sold from China, and they just have no interest in enforcing copyright from other countries, and we rely on them too much to force the issue. Any European/American/Japanese company would be sued.

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