The sometimes frowned upon TT02 RWD drift build - 1973 Porsche Carrera RSR

[RC Perspective 527]

So I'm new here, but not new to RC or Tamiya. I have only just joined Tamiya Club after lurking for years. And salivating over the fastest Tamiya list and all the build threads and information on here.

I'd like to contribute knowledge and more builds for the site. I come from a long background of auto mechanics and electronic engineering. More of a Jack-of-all-trades, but specifically engineering, both mechanical and electronic, also fabrication and Physics.

That's the most relevant experience in the RC hobby, so I'll stop with the background there, and if there is anything you want to know, feel free to ask in the thread or shoot me a PM.

Onto the juicy bits.

This build is almost complete, but being I only just joined the forum, I'll drip feed the pics and info starting at the beginning. As most of you already know how the TT02 is assembled, I'll leave most of the base assembly out of here and highlight certain things along the way.

After previously building a TT02R, and wasting glorious money on it (not as crazy as some), then a budget TT02 build setup for rally, I decided to build a RWD TT02 chassis, mainly for drift, but also for hooning around from time to time. 

I built the TT02 knowing full well that there are way better choices for out of the box drifting out there. And sure I can toss a Tamiya body on it to make them look better. But what can I say, I absolutely love Tamiya, and I like a good challenge.

 

Now that that is out of the way, Lets start at the beginning.

I've been eyeing the 911 Carrera RSR body since buying my TT02R about a year ago. And I absolutely love building things from scratch and adding my own little twists to them. But I figured it'd be fun to build a TT02 that's as challenging to drive fast as a real Porsche from the same era, with way too much power LOL. I haven't driven a Porsche, or MR or RR in real life. Though I do drive an 89 Camaro and Gran Turismo nailed the handling on the Camaro. What I would do in game would translate to what the car would do in real life, so it's strikingly close. I've always joked that I learned how to drive by playing all the GT's profusely growing up and even now. So I know that most of the Porsches are a handful to drive, and that line is easy to cross. If you've driven a Porsche hard, you know exactly what line I mean.

So why not scale it down and make it EVEN more difficult? Like I said, I like a challenge.

So I bought the TT02 1992 Audi V8 kit, and the 1973 Carrera RSR body set. That's the rally build next to it on the work bench.

The wonderful feeling of having a new kit in front of you and the giddy feeling you get when the hop-ups start arriving!

1992 Audi V8 TT02 kit - 58699A (Comes with THW 1060 Brushed ESC instead of TBLE-04S)

1973 Porsche Carrera RSR Body Set - 51543

Winter Evening TT02 bearing kit - Ebay

Square TT02 Drift Steering - STD-217D

Tamiya Mini CVA Shocks - 54753 (Came with the TT02R)

Tamiya Adjustable Upper Arm Set - 54874

Tamiya Aluminum Motor Plate - 54558 (came in my TT02R kit)

Tamiya Universal TG10 shafts - 54394 (Bought for the TT02R)

Tamiya Universal Cup Joints - 54477

Tamiya Low Friction Suspension Balls - 54559

Tamiya TBLE-04S ESC - 45069 (Looking to replace or use a BEC)

Ebay Sensored Brushless 13.5T

Surpass Hobbies 16KG Servo - S1600BL

5mm Bullets for the motor wires

Couple sensor cables of various lengths

FGr4 V2 Rx for FlySky Noble NB4 TX - FGr4

SkyRC Gyro - GC301

Power Hobbies Blue 25T Servo Horn

 

Chronologically this is my third TT02 build. The TT02R was first, and the budget rally build was second. So two more TT02 build threads to come. 

-RC Perspective

[RC Perspective 527]

Preparation and Assembly

In preparation for the drift build, I wanted a little more weight in the back so I opted to use the DF02 metal diff gears in the rear diff (58328-DF02 Metal Parts Bag A). I already built one so I just pulled it out of the front of the rally chassis and built a fresh, stock TT02 diff to drop in its place.

The only lube you'll ever need for sealed gears. Just a dab goes a long, long way.

Cleaned the DF02 diff out and slapped it full of AW grease to tighten the diff. I've noticed it soften up after running, so I put extra in to keep it tighter.

Propshaft joint modified for RWD (just removing the cup part of the stock piece) and assembled diff in place. I used Traxxas PTFE shims to take up the slack. IIRC I chose 28/70 for gearing, but am going to drop that pinion a few more teeth.

Chopping off all the limiters.

Build the adjustable upper arms

Throw all the parts in a bucket and shake it up. Sometimes parts stick together and you get this.

-RC Perspective

[RC Perspective 527]

Wheels and Electronics Placement

I must confess my obsession with the Tamiya 2 piece rims. With TS paints any combination is possible! I saw in another post someone who painted the grey and gold wheels a nice silver and gold and that's my plan for the last set I have.

I really like how the black came out on the barrels and spokes. I use the black/black combo with the 1991 Audi V8 TT02 build.

And these were the final set of wheels I wanted for this build. I waited 5 months for it to come from Japan. Was an auction for the narrow and wide barrels in chrome, the white inserts with screws (I already bought the same inserts in black), narrow and wide tires and foams. The wide tires on the grey barrels are HPI 31mm tires and are too tall. Doesn't look terrible on this car, as you'll see in some of the first pics when everything starts to go together, but doesn't quite tick the box for me the way the Tamiya wide tires do.

Now that the chassis is together, I shortened the switch wires on the ESC with my magic heat wand.

Played with wiring and placement for awhile.

Couple things here. You noticed the 3D printer in the first post? Absolutely indispensable for a hobbyist. 3d printed Gyro mount. Also the lack of a front diff conveniently gives you a place to shove some excess wire. I toyed with the idea of mounting the gyro in there. For the steering knuckles, I drilled third hole further forward, and closer to the wheel, to get a little extra steering lock. 

Picked up a 2s shorty lipo and soldered the bullets on to the ESC wires.

And here is the decided placement of everything complete with some loom to clean it up. The front propshaft cup bearing retaining clamp is the perfect size for the loom I have used and doesn't pinch any wires. You can just barely see the 3d printed piece covering the front ribbing under the steering.

And I chose to mount the body posts on both bumpers, for reasons that will soon become clear.

 

The links to the 3d printed parts I used here.

Gyro holder - https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/tt-02-tamiya-gyro-drift-hacks-slider-yeah-racing-support (it appears the free version I downloaded has been removed, and is no longer free. Since I don't remember what the original licensing was for it on Thingiverse, and I am not the original designer for the piece, I can't upload it. I will probably design my own in the future, but there are numerous designs out there for free.)

Front tub cover (free) - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4589927

-RC Perspective

 

[RC Perspective 527]

The Body - Part I

Now to another fun part! 

Found a candle holder with some fine mesh on the sides at a local thrift shop for a couple bucks. The mesh is perfect for the RC scale, and there was quite a bit of it. I decided to cut out the front grille, front ducts, and side ducts, and use the mesh behind them.

Just a mock up

For the color I used PS-58 Clear Pearl, followed by PS-38 Translucent Blue, followed by PS-5 Black, Then PS-31 Smoke Tint for the side and back windows. You can see my high dollar painting equipment.

From most angles it looks black, And you'll see that in future pics. It's kind of like the Tuxedo Black that was on old Corvettes.

Went to a local Scale Truck event here in FL and saw this pristine beauty sitting on the drift track.

-RC Perspective

 

[RC Perspective 527]

The Body, Part II - Decals and Lighting

This one might be a little long, But I promise you it's worth it.

The single most time consuming part of a Tamiya RC, Even if you don't do the full livery! Kick on some tunes and enjoy it. Best advice; If you start getting frustrated, take a break and come back later. It isn't going anywhere.

Do you remember those little twists and details I said I loved? Here they come!

And now you get to see why I chose the bumpers for the body posts.

Those are 6 inch steel fishing leads. Couple that with some Carbon Fiber vinyl and you get this.

Worth it? I think so!

Even if you get frustrated doing the stickers/decals, remember this moment. The moment you finish and see how awesome it looks! Even if you aren't good at it yet, and are unhappy with the results, use that to learn and try to improve for the next build! And you know there is always a next build. The possibilities are endless in this hobby. One of the many reasons I'm addicted to it.

Alright, so you're still on the fence about this being worth it, Maybe this will change your mind?

Lighting.

So I was unable to find light buckets for the Porsche. Unwilling to admit defeat, I once again went to the 3D printer. Someone actually made light buckets for this Porsche body! But, it had 3 holes for LEDs in it and I only wanted one. This was the tipping point for me.

I fabricate all kinds of stuff from scratch with various materials. I've made it a point in life to do as much as I can myself, and so far I have been pretty good at that. Now, it was time for me to start designing in CAD programs. I found TinkerCad; A free cad program that runs in your web browser, is easy to use with tutorials (I've watched like part of one, but I'm like that; I learn by doing it myself. A bit harder yes, but allows you to discover all kinds of shortcuts that can be useful), and best of all, its free!

I started by modifying the source file pictured

And successfully modified it to a single LED hole

And after some chrome paint

Installed with E6000 adhesive on the sides and two dots of Cyanoacrylate (superglue) top and bottom. The CA glues it quick and "clamps" the light bucket in place while the E6000 cures. I like this method because the E6000 absorbs shock while the CA glue will break upon a hard enough impact.

After that was done it was on to lighting and wiring. Electronics is somewhere I excel, and I thoroughly enjoy it. I picked warm white LEDs to simulate  the older yellow headlights of the 70's and kept it simple; two headlights and 2 tail lights. Tuned the resistances to get the brightness I wanted.

Did you have enough of an eagle eye to spot the springs on the body posts a couple posts back? Part of my solution to a lighting kit without a plug to fiddle with every time you take the body off. Eliminates the plug and no excessive wire to tug or get caught on stuff. I'm sure I am not the first one to do it this way. I'm just the first to post it (I think? I spent days searching online for someone who did the same thing). This pic shows the springs below the clips, but I put a couple coils above the clip to make it work. I just hadn't done so yet in this pic.

And some pics with the completed lighting kit.

I've since blacked out the backs of the LEDs to kill the bleed through.

Worth it yet?

-RC Perspective

3d printed headlight files;

Source file with 3 LED holes - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5100240

My remix with a single LED hole - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5386868

Both are FREE!

 

 

 

[Nikko85 3854]

Awesome work and welcome. Lovely little car, how does it drive?

[RC Perspective 527]

That Feeling You Get...

Some (ALMOST) Finished Pics.

I'll be honest, the way this build has been coming out has blown me away. But I have been building it since January. So Ideas had time to stew and develop. And taking your time with a build always seems to come out better IMO.

Old wheels

Traxxas 4-tec Drift Wheels (staggered)

And with the wheels I waited so long for!

But don't worry, there's more to come!

I like to put a tiny hidden Tamiya twist on my models. I put two Tamiya stars in two places on the body; Have you spotted them?

-RC Perspective

[RC Perspective 527]

5 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

Awesome work and welcome. Lovely little car, how does it drive?

Thank you! It doesn't seem right to keep some of the stuff I build from the world; even if I'm just one person. If you guys get as much enjoyment out of these builds as I do it's worth it.

I'll be honest, I've only drifted it a little on the pavement with the Tamiya drift tires to get a feel for it, but it needs tuning. My road is too rough to get it to handle predictably on drift tires. I need to get it on some P-tile with the Traxxas tires to be able to properly dial it in for drift. Then I should be able to tune the exponential for steering to make it manageable on-road without getting full steering lock.

[ploots 310]

I'm loving this as I've got a tt02d to build too,I'm going to try and create my 1st car I had when I passed my driving test, it was a Ford mk1 escort and seeing what mods you have done to yours has given me great ideas and now I can't wait to start it,please keep it coming 

[RC Perspective 527]

8 minutes ago, ploots said:

I'm loving this as I've got a tt02d to build too,I'm going to try and create my 1st car I had when I passed my driving test, it was a Ford mk1 escort and seeing what mods you have done to yours has given me great ideas and now I can't wait to start it,please keep it coming 

Thanks bud!

Looking forward to seeing how it comes out! Another build I want to do is a FWD build, Like a 96 Accord I used to have. Most likely not with a TT02 though. Only problem is, I'm looking for the PIAA Accord body and that's a hard thing to find!

Don't worry, I have two other TT02 builds completed that I have yet to make build threads on. Good thing I take a bunch of pictures LOL!

-RC Perspective

[RC Perspective 527]

Lighting - Part II

DISCLAIMER - Underglow doesn't float everyone's boat, and I'm ok with that. It's cool if you let me know you don't like it too. Everyone has their preference. I'm not a fan of underglow on everything, but it can be tasteful and look good in some situations.

Onwards Buttercup!

In the beginning I wanted to do underglow, because its a drift build and I think it would look awesome. Originally I wanted to drill holes in the chassis and integrate it into the chassis. I sat on this idea for a few months and in that time is when I started messing with TinkerCad and seeing what I could make. After designing some other stuff for the TT02 (I kinda dove off the deep end so to speak), I reused part of my design that attaches to the sides of the chassis, and put 5 LED holes on each side, facing downwards. Using 180* viewing angle flat top red LEDs. 5 on each side, 2 on the front bumper and 2 on the back bumper. I made a harness with plugs for each section, so nothing has to be disassembled for ease of service. Drilled 2 holes in the bumper pieces and wired it all up. These side pieces are the first version. All the LEDs pull less than 200mA, so not really alot of draw, but I still need an ESC upgrade or a BEC.

Before I tucked the harness into the loom. These are the first version I designed. I'm now running a second version with pieces that extend out to the body to block the light. They also have a tab I've added to use magnets to hold the sides of the body in, as I've noticed the bottom of the sides of the body bulge outwards. 

And the finished product! Well, almost. I''ve blacked out the backs of these LEDs and reglued the front LED on the side piece.

Will have more pics of the updated pieces and hopefully some good dusk shots to really show this off!

I'd really like to find the RHD touring car cockpit for this build. I'm going to do The Stig as the driver.

Stay Tuned!

-RC Perspective

I haven't yet posted the LED bars on Thingiverse, But the front bumper plate above I have remixed from someone else's design is here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5386087

[Frankster 2077]

Great Porsche 👏

neon under glow reminds me of the 90’s 🤗

what is E6000 and CA you mention?  What type of glue / adhesive is this?

[RC Perspective 527]

So it finally got dark, and wasn't raining tonight, so I grabbed a few more pics.

The circles don't really appear that well in person

These are the second version of my LED mounts, with a tab for a small magnet mount.

And here you can see the body bulge without the magnet

And here it straightens out with the magnet installed. I know, it's not much at all; but the little things.

And here is the current max steering angle. Enough to start drifting at least.

 

Hope you enjoy

-RC Perspective

[RC Perspective 527]

2 minutes ago, Frankster said:

Great Porsche 👏

neon under glow reminds me of the 90’s 🤗

what is E6000 and CA you mention?  What type of glue / adhesive is this?

Thanks bud!

For me, the underglow just fits in with the drift theme.

E6000 is a silicone like adhesive - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eclectic-E6000-Industrial-Adhesive-with-Precision-Tip-Clear-1-oz/52678045?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=800&adid=2222222227752678045_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-293946777986&wl5=9012092&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=52678045&wl13=800&veh=sem_LIA&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ayUBhA4EiwATWyBrjT370HPn7GX3j-G9RXxA4OUtGaSmvstNhhgJhbH984e39fi7UqFiBoCyf4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

CA is just regular superglue.

I should probably edit those into the post; thanks for the heads up!

-RC Perspective

[Re-Bugged 11605]

Very nicely done 👍🏻
I do like those Traxxas wheels on there. 

[RC Perspective 527]

7 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Very nicely done 👍🏻
I do like those Traxxas wheels on there. 

Thanks!

I truly love these Traxxas wheels. But when I saw the chrome 2-piece Tamiya wheels I had to have them.

-RC Perspective

[Re-Bugged 11605]

I must admit I am a bit jealous of those juicy Tamiya rims. 😉
 

The limited choice’s for keeping the Porsche wider wheels on the rear to match the fronts can be frustrating at times. 

[RC Perspective 527]

7 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

I must admit I am a bit jealous of those juicy Tamiya rims. 😉
 

The limited choice’s for keeping the Porsche wider wheels on the rear to match the fronts can be frustrating at times. 

I feel that statement in my bones. Its because of that the on road tires are going to be shelf queen tires with very little, if any runtime. That's how hard they can be to find most of the time. I caught that full auction at just the right time. Just sucked waiting 5 months for it LOL.

I did find drift tires that come in 26mm and 32mm widths. The ones with the tread in them. Might grab those up and try them on the chrome wheels.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373789635250 - 26mm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334220205189 - 32mm

-RC Perspective

[Alexei 756]

about tires, have you had a look at these from HPI?

VINTAGE PERFORMANCE TIRE 26mm & VINTAGE PERFORMANCE TIRE 31mm

VINTAGE RACING TIRE 26mm & VINTAGE RACING TIRE 31mm

 

i plan to do a project with the Tamiya 2-piece wheels with either of these two tires, as it should allow me to run the wide rears.

 

[TurboRSR 451]

10 hours ago, Alexei said:

about tires, have you had a look at these from HPI?

VINTAGE PERFORMANCE TIRE 26mm & VINTAGE PERFORMANCE TIRE 31mm

VINTAGE RACING TIRE 26mm & VINTAGE RACING TIRE 31mm

 

i plan to do a project with the Tamiya 2-piece wheels with either of these two tires, as it should allow me to run the wide rears.

 

I think these tires can be fitted to the HPI Vintage wheels only, as the outer side have a higher profile sidewall than the inner.  

[RC Perspective 527]

10 hours ago, Alexei said:

about tires, have you had a look at these from HPI?

VINTAGE PERFORMANCE TIRE 26mm & VINTAGE PERFORMANCE TIRE 31mm

VINTAGE RACING TIRE 26mm & VINTAGE RACING TIRE 31mm

 

i plan to do a project with the Tamiya 2-piece wheels with either of these two tires, as it should allow me to run the wide rears.

 

These 31mm rears do not fit the Tamiya 32mm wide wheels unfortunately. Those are the exact tires I have on the rears in the beginning of this thread. Best to dish out for the Tamiya Slicks in 32mm.

6 minutes ago, TurboRSR said:

I think these tires can be fitted to the HPI Vintage wheels only, as the outer side have a higher profile sidewall than the inner.  

Correct. I tried the 31mm tires in the beginning, no go.

I've got some big updates I need to get around to posting.

-RC

[Alexei 756]

well s***, then there is only some Tamiya slicks if i want something thats easy to get. 

anyway, im curious about what update it is. will have a look when you post it.

 

 

[TurboRSR 451]

6 hours ago, Alexei said:

well s***, then there is only some Tamiya slicks if i want something thats easy to get. 

anyway, im curious about what update it is. will have a look when you post it.

 

 

HPI also have the Spec-grip tire (semi-slick) that come in both 26mm and 31mm. 

[Alexei 756]

3 hours ago, TurboRSR said:

HPI also have the Spec-grip tire (semi-slick) that come in both 26mm and 31mm. 

do you know if it fits the Tamiya 2-piece wheels?

i have not tried any of the HPI 31mm wide tires. i have used HPI 26mm tires before, and i think they hold up pretty well, while the Tamiya tires wears out rather quick. which is one reason why i want to use HPI tires.

[BackITG 34]

Only catching this thread now - WOW! Awesome build, excellent body choice; it's an true icon and you cannot not love Porsche  You idea on the mesh got me thinking, thanks!