How to clean ball bearings?

[NZJohn 78]

Hi all,

I’ve just dismantled my TT02B after a run on a dirt track. The car is filthy. I assume soap and water and dry the plastic parts. But the bearings? I wouldn’t think soap and water for them. WD40?

[Jonathon Gillham 4607]

I don't clean mine, I replace them. I use the rubber shielded ones when they are exposed and they tend to last pretty well, up to 2 years in most cases. This is only feasible if you buy them cheap enough though. I bought a bearing kit for my HB 817 and it cost about $70, but buying the Yeah Racing bearings from RCMart got me all the sizes with plenty of spares for about $30, so they're well under $1 each. Bearings for a TT02B are even cheaper as they get more expensive as they get bigger.

I have seen people who do take the shields off, soak them in WD40 or similar and then re oil though. You can buy RC branded bearing oil, but its probably the same stuff as some other oil that is a 10th the price for 5 times as much. Not sure what that would be though

[OgNewb 7]

 Are they cruchey. If they spin smooth. Run them. If Not, Then put in a jar with a solvent. Shake and enjoy. I have used my girls ring cleaner and actone,nailpolish stuff.

[Frog Jumper 3663]

I squirt them with WD40 and spin them to help loosen any grit.  Once (and if) they come clean, I regrease with Tamiya AW or Cera...

Terry

[SlideWRX 785]

I have soaked mine in WD-40 overnight to wonderful results. definitely do that first.

[94eg! 834]

If they are metal shielded (non sealed) bearings, then just soak them in a shot glass with motor spray for a few minutes.   If you don't have motor spray, CRC brand "QD electronics cleaner" is the same stuff for half the price.  After they soak for a while, take them out and spin the fluid out of them and blow them dry.  Then repeat.

If the bearing is completely cleaned of all grease & dirt, you can tell if they are still "good" when they will spin for a loooong time super free and smooth (completely dry). Once you've separated the good bearings, lay them on a paper towel and drop some 0w20 synthetic motor oil...... or proper bearing oil.... onto the top shield.  Spin the bearing to distribute the oil and then lay them down so the excess soaks out into the paper towel.   Then they are ready to install.

You will notice bearings that are oiled vs greased are much much faster.  However they will get dirty again much much quicker.

 

For rubber sealed bearings, the grease inside usually outlasts the bearings.  So long as you dont soak them in water or oil...or do anything to force dirt past the seal (no compressed air).

For teflon sealed racing bearings the trick is to not disturbe the dirt on them ever.  The seal and surface oil will keep the dirt out on their own, and they will stay fast.  The oil inside should last as long as the bearing so long as you don't push the dirt past the seal by trying to brush or wipe them off.  The teflon seal barely makes contact with the inner race so dirt ingress is easy with just a minimal amount of touch.

Bearings are a wear item so be prepared to replace ones you can't get smooth....as well as ones that are too delicate to service (Teflon and many rubber sealed).

[NZJohn 78]

Thanks all. I’ve decided to try WD40 overnight and then I’ll dry them tomorrow and see how they spin. 
It’s not so much about saving the money as not wasting 3 month old bearings. Just seems wasteful. 
That’s said driving on a dirt track - these cars and the bearings take a hammering. I’m now going to keep one for the dirt and one for carpet. 

[94eg! 834]

Just be aware wd40 will work well as a cleaner, but it's not a lubricant. It's meant to dry up after use. A little motor oil will really help.

[Wooders28 4723]

We asked one of the top guys in the club, how he did his, so he did this video- 

 

 

He's also done others on shocks ,soldering etc too.

[RC Perspective 511]

After learning about Graphite lubes in the 90's when I was doing BMX, it only felt right to use it in the RC hobby too.

Me personally (Just did this last night to my TT02 chassis that I run in the rain sometimes; It's been sitting for a week after), I use a 80/20 mix of bearing oil and graphite lube, for rubber shielded or metal bearings, upon installing when new.

A small hypodermic needle is perfect as you can use the flat to push the rubber shielding in enough for the mixture to penetrate. This also works great for getting to the bearings while on the car.

When I cleaned mine, I usually put non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner and the bearings in a baby food jar and agitate for about 60 seconds then drain it off. If you've used brake cleaner around rubber, you know to not have the rubber shielded bearings in it too long.

After that I follow up with WD-40 and again, agitate on and off for about 5-10 minutes. Dump mixture off again.

Then I make a mix of 80% bearing oil and 20% Graphite lube. I use PB blaster brand Graphite in the spray bottle and let it outgass first.

Agitate that mixture with the bearings in it on and off for another 5-10 minutes, then pull the bearings out and spin them to make sure everything has broken up. I'll usually use the needle at this point to add more lube mix and keep spinning them until buttery smooth again. 

Follow it up with another quick drop or 2 of lube, wipe em down, and slap em back in.

For me they stay smooth for a good bit, even when bashing on-road in FL. Super sandy and dusty. So the graphite does a good job there. 

Hopefully this helps.

-RC Perspective

[SlideWRX 785]

how are the bearings? saveable?