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Superluminal

TA02 Racing Special + TA02SW + TA02W + TA02 Rally

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The rear shock tower. The Tamiya FRP finish is not particularly nice - theres some quite rough edges. I gave these a very light sand to remove the fur and I didnt like the white edge so used a black parmanent felt tip pen on it.

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The turnbuckles and adjustable ends are to replace the plastic upper arms. This also gets rid of the step screws - hooray!!!! I hate step screws.

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Fitted the brass collars to the out drive cups - the later ones already hsve this machined into them.

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And fitted.

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Rear arms and uprights installed with the stainless steel shafts and e-clips to get rid of the screw pins - hooray!!!! I hate screw pins.

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And the rear end finished

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Front end. Starts off with the gear diff with the alloy gears. Dont mind this as it doesnt need any adjustment.

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Rest of the gears and prop shaft drive cup.

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Front FRP damp mount and adjustable top mounts. A couple of aluminium spacers are used on the ball ends for the shock mounts.

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The FRP tower is fixed to the gearbox with an aluminium bracket and FRP spacer (edges coloured in black)

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Then the front uprights and hubs. I used the black TA03 uprights rather than the standard TA02 blue ones. Stainless shafts again and the lightweight king pins - hooray, no step screws or screw pins in sight!!!

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Ive also got the pink anodised universal shafts which match the colour of the aluminium low friction damper bodies - shame they cant be seen when installed.

One last look before they go in......

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And then hidden forever after

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Front end finished, shocks tomorrow.

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The adjustable arms dont do a lot to help the play in the suspension on the TA02!!! They look good though which is more important.

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

The adjustable arms dont do a lot to help the play in the suspension on the TA02!!! They look good though which is more important.

Very true, slack as slack thing

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TA02SW - Day 2

Dampers - will be using the 53155 low friction dampers with the soft red and medium yellow springs left over from the two packs i ended up getting for the RS build.

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Even though i bought both sets at the same time the packaging was different, not sure why as the info on the different settings was quite useful.

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Separated out the parts, used the two hole piston and assembled. I used a 3mm internal plastic spacer in addition to the o-ring inside to reduce the ride heigh. Because race car (and no bumps on the shelf)

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One thing i had to do on these that ive never had to do before was slightly sand down the edge of the piston. On the trial fitting it scraped and was tight inside the body. Ive built a few of these sets over the years and not had to do that before. I noticed that on the V parts sprue there was some flash and plastic furry edges that looked like bleed from gaps in the moulds. I think some of the tooling Tamiya use is probably coming to the end soon or at least needs a refurb. I noticed this on some F103 wheels recently too, the bore in the moulding for the front wheel bearings was so out of tolerance that they were practically useless (Most of these bits are going to be getting on for 25 - 30 years old now)

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Bit of colour to break up the black and grey - the reduced ride height meant i had to adjust the top links as when fitted they gave the uprights some proper oi oi saveloy camber. As im not 25 anymore that had to go. Good thing i fitted the turn buckles after all!

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Main chassis - had to buy the j parts sprue which is unique to the FRP and carbon chassis kits.

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Steering was where it went a bit off piste. The 25mm long screws required to hold the two aluminum pivot posts onto the chassis are supposed to be threaded for the whole length and poke out the top to allow a nut to hold the arms on. The screws i had were only partially threaded so had to use 12mm screws.

Then i realised I didnt have any of the brass 5mm flanged tubes for the plastic link between the two arms. Got about a billion of the 6.5mm ones but these dont fit so had to swap the link with something assembled with a spare turnbuckle and ball adjustors (even though this piece should be a fixed length and needs no adjustment.

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Then installed onto the posts with a 6mm long screw and spacer instead of the nyloc nut mentioned above.

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Next steps are installing the two gearboxes onto the chassis with the prop shaft. I lovecthis step as its now a proper chassis.

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I used a high torque servo saver and short aluminium servo mounts to fit the savox servo and a turnbuckle adjustor.

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Final stretch now.

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Top deck on - the part threaded 25mm long screws work ok here this time.spacer.png

Bumpers and body posts are the last chassis pieces. The manual advises cutting off a small reinforcing section off the post when using the FRP mounts.

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As this TA02SW will be fitted with the Porsche GT2 shell it has the wide two piece mesh wheels (ive had these knocking around painted up for years but didnt want to run them) These are wrapped in the Super Grip Radial tyres with their directional tread pattern on the fronts. Love these tyres.

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Tamiya aluminium wheel hexes - far better than the ebay specials so i try to use these everywhere i can now.

And finished - one down, two to go.

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

 

 

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Lovely stuff @Superluminal. Enjoyed this thread from start to finish so far, and am learning loads in the process for my next build, so many thanks!  Can I just check my understanding about those (by now infamous) brass collars...  If I've understood the previous posts correctly (and it's entirely possible that I haven't) then I can use either (i) 9805419 on their own, or (ii) 53217 and the collars.  Is that right?  I've got lots of sets of 53217 but I can only find the collars at modellbau-seidel although I don't think they ship to UK. Just wondering if I should sell on my current stash of 53217 and simply buy some 9805419 instead... Sorry for the newbie question! ☺️

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4 hours ago, middleagedgrup said:

If I've understood the previous posts correctly (and it's entirely possible that I haven't) then I can use either (i) 9805419 on their own, or (ii) 53217 and the collars.  Is that right?

Yes mate thats spot on.

9805419 already has the collar machined into it.spacer.png

Where as 53217 doesnt and can be used with the separate brass collar

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Ive only ever seen the collars for sale from seidel too. If it wasnt for them being used on the original Racing Special I wouldnt have bothered - i would just use 9805419 instead, its just the collars come in packs of four so i had two left over for this build.

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22 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Yes mate thats spot on.

9805419 already has the collar machined into it.

Where as 53217 doesnt and can be used with the separate brass collar

Ive only ever seen the collars for sale from seidel too. If it wasnt for them being used on the original Racing Special I wouldnt have bothered - i would just use 9805419 instead, its just the collars come in packs of four so i had two left over for this build.

Thanks for confirming - that's what I had taken from the previous posts, so it's good to know I hadn't gotten the wrong end of the stick!  As an aside, this evening I checked the manual for my 47477 45th anniversary 934 (which I haven't built yet) as I realised that that kit comes with 53127 for the rear diff.  But the kit doesn't include the collars, and the manual shows 53217 being installed without any collars being fitted.  So I guess that means it is in fact ok to use 53217 without the collars. 

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I've got a 47470 ReRe Top Force Evo tucked away at the back of my cupboard and which presumably has 9805419 for the ball diffs, so it'd be interesting to see if the gearbox joints from that fit into the rear diff of the 934.  Will have to give that a go when I get round to building it! :) 

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From what I recall the collars were there to provide additional stability where the joint fits into the plastic gear box when using higher power motors to reduce the wear on the splines.

The Racing Special uses the regular 53217 but with the Top Force Evo diff parts in conjunction with the collars.

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This detail seems unique to the RS kit though as all the regular TA02 kits dont have them. 

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On 6/16/2022 at 1:45 AM, Superluminal said:

 

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Might be that you already know it, but you have the incorrect type of king pins. The correct ones (53157) are in aluminium and a bit shorter, so they will not leave a gap underneath the head. 

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29 minutes ago, TurboRSR said:

Might be that you already know it, but you have the incorrect type of king pins. The correct ones (53157) are in aluminium and a bit shorter, so they will not leave a gap underneath the head. 

Yeah ive got the 53141's for the TA01 style uprights. They still tighten up correctly as the threaded part to the shoulder is still the same length so I can live with the slight gap under the hex at £8 a pack as opposed to hunting down the alloy TA02 ones at a million pounds.

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TA02W

Next up is the TA02W chassis for the Castrol Supra and Clarion GTR bodies. This build is going to be a stock out of the box build except for bearings (i can just about cope with the step screws and screw pins here but not plastic bushes!)

First up is bag A and the rear gearbox parts. Ball diff assembly.

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Silver can motor, alloy pinion and the plastic motor mount.

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Not quite as nice looking as the last two assemblies with the alloy mount.

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Rear gearbox finished.

Theres something quite theraputic about building this as everything is all there ready in the parts bags without having to scrape through the spares box or think too much about what needs to go on in what order.

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Bag B - front gear box. Gear diff first.spacer.png

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The below illustrates the difference between the TA02 and the TA02W. Top is the standard TA01 setup with the narrow front arm and wide red upright which takes two 1150 bearings.

The middle is the standard TA02 with the wider front arm and the narrow blue upright which uses a 1510 and 1260 bearing.

The bottom shows the TA02W which uses a combination of the wider front arm with wide TA01 upright.

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Front end completed.

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Theres something quite theraputic about building this as everything is all there ready in the parts bags without having to scrape through the spares box or think too much about what needs to go on in what order.

Oh, this. I’m working through a series of bits-a-builds and as much as I’m enjoying the challenge of making it all come together, I am really looking forward to finishing them off and then just building an actual KIT again…you know, with actual organised parts bags and everything 🤩

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On 9/10/2022 at 4:26 PM, Superluminal said:

The rear shock tower. The Tamiya FRP finish is not particularly nice - theres some quite rough edges. I gave these a very light sand to remove the fur and I didnt like the white edge so used a black parmanent felt tip pen on it.

The original instructions that came with these parts instruct you to seal the edges with cyanoacrylate (super glue) for the very reason you state. It darkens the edges and prevents picking up nasty glass fibre splinters. 

14 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Front end completed.

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The TA-01 / TA-02 (FF01) is my favourite chassis and the bodies that came on these are just the best in my opinion. I'd love a castrol supra add gtr-lm of my own one day.  I do have several others though and in my experience, the shorter king pins for the TA-02 uprights are always black whereas the longer TA-01 king pins (for the red uprights used in the W) are always a goldy colour. Are you sure you've put the correct ones in?

Edited by rich_f
Typo
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TA02W - Day 2

Standard plastic CVAs today.

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Two hole pistons and the 5mm and 3mm internal spacers.

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One thing that always surprises me on these is the random collection of hardware needed to attach the dampers to the towers.

Theres three separate lengths of spacer, two sets in brass and one set in steel. Theres some self tapping and machine screws and some clinch nuts. 

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And done;

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1 hour ago, rich_f said:

I do have several others though and in my experience, the shorter king pins for the TA-02 uprights are always black whereas the longer TA-01 king pins (for the red uprights used in the W) are always a goldy colour. Are you sure you've put the correct ones in?

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:ph34r: 

Yeah i swapped these out last night, I had these left over from my Top Force which has the lightweight ones fitted on it as the shorter black ones i fitted first didnt tighten down properly without binding (these are now the 11.5mm long step screws as opposed to the 10mm ones)

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Last step is the connection of the gearboxes to the tub and fitting the steering. Ive run out of servos at the moment so cant fit the posts but the rest can go together.

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The standard steering is not as nice as the one on the FRP chassis with the alloy posts and bearings.

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And the bit of bent coat hanger as a prop shaft. Mmmm wobbly!

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Nice 👍🏻 Flying along with these now aren’t you.

I do like the TA’s, I’m also a bit jealous you have a few on the go when I’m just wanting one for a Street Scorcher. I’ve got a Calibra on the way as a donor it’s sitting in Belgium as I type patiently waiting for a flight out, hopefully not to long.

I’m looking to make it a SW, but I’m thinking I may need to change the front uprights looking through your very informative thread. We’ll see when it arrives.

Keep up the good work and enjoy. 

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11 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Nice 👍🏻 Flying along with these now aren’t you.

I do like the TA’s, I’m also a bit jealous you have a few on the go when I’m just wanting one for a Street Scorcher. I’ve got a Calibra on the way as a donor it’s sitting in Belgium as I type patiently waiting for a flight out, hopefully not to long.

I’m looking to make it a SW, but I’m thinking I may need to change the front uprights looking through your very informative thread. We’ll see when it arrives.

Keep up the good work and enjoy. 

Thanks mate, its taken a long while to get there but the re-re Calibra kit really helped out as the starting point on mine top and then escalated on to the others. On the standard TA02SW you can keep the regular TA02 blue narrow uprights with the wider arms if looking for the same track width at the front as the typical Porsche 934 / GT2 kits as the extra width on these comes from running the two piece front wheels at max offset. Although you might want to end up with something like a TA02SWW with the widened front like the TA02W and the short wheelbase and wider rear of the SW. I think when you see how nice the Calibra shell is you might want another too.

In order to shorten the wheelbase you will need either the TA01 rear arms on the F parts tree (50646) or D parts tree from the Lancia 037 (0555091) 

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Cheers Bud, I ordered the F parts, 39mm CVD’s set of 26 & 30mm two piece wheels and a YR Motor Mount with the Calibra.
I sat the Scorcher body on my 934 Jäger Porsche chassis and look pretty good to me, which is what kicked it off. Just the waiting game now till it turns up. I’ll just have to keep staring at the bearing kit I already have sitting on the bench for the time being  😉

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The last of my TA02 builds (until the next ones from the pile) - the TA02 budget rally build, inspired by @Cuiken £200 rally challenge. This really appealed to me and actually lifted me out of a bit of a "too much hobby" black hole I feel I was in. At the end of 2021 I was struggling to motivate myself to get on and build the kits that I had previously excitedly collected all the parts for and there was nothing in any new releases that was in any way remotely inspiring for this year. I started 2022 with the TF3 build and also the huge pile that was the collected TA02 Racing Special bits which over a couple of years of hunting down parts from all over the world that had probably cost the same as the GDP of a relatively industrialised first world country I was left with a huge amounts of left over plastics and a much lighter bank account so really felt obliged to get on with something new. The parts from this would then go towards the recent TA02SW and TA02W builds built from the left over spares and the Calibra donor but these were then mainly built for the purposes of displaying a couple of my favourite bodyshells on the shelf that I had always wanted. Whereas the new rally build will be a runner! 

To start this off is the donor TA02 chassis, well used / abused but bought because it had the Tamiya carbon plates. The gearbox plastics are a bit worse for wear and need some parts replacing and it didnt have any arms or dampers, just some random springs. It had a few other period correct hop ups though and some non Tamiya universals I dont recognise and now dont look like they will actually fit when comparing lenghths with the dogbones and proper universals needed. Everything has been stripped, plastics cleaned of old dirty grey grease they were caked in with fairy and metal parts soaked in WD40.

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The gearboxes have the usual cracks where the tapping screws go in. Ive tried super gluing them for now but they really need drilling out and a machine screw and nut using.

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The chassis plates are a bit scratched so i have tried to polish out what I can but they will be fine for a runner and will only get more scratches in time.

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The new parts specifically for this build are;

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New wheels and rally tyres - 12.39
New servo - 21.50
New reciever - 30.99
New Hi Torqe servo saver - 11.70
New aluminium servo mounts - 11
New TA02 A Parts tree - 14.99
New bearings - 13.99
New alloy prop shaft - 12.99
New Fastrax alloy motor mount - 7.99
New steel pinion - 4.99

Total for the base chassis and the new parts comes to £192.53

The rest will be left overs from the parts box - to date I have previously built a TA02SW Porsche GT2 street tub chassis, TA02SW Vaillant 934 carbon chassis, TA02SW Porsche Taisan FRP chassis, TA02 Racing Special, TA02W, Top Force 2017 and a ratty old dead end Manta Ray. Fortunately these all share the same base TA01/02 drivetrain and hopping up various bits plus the Calibra re-re donor for the RS means ive been left with a shed load of spares to use.

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The main bits i will need from this lot are;

Uprights - narrow blue ones, left over from prior TA02W build

Front and rear arms - left over from TA02SW builds

CVA dampers + touring car spring set - left over after upgrading TA02SW build to low friction dampers.

Diff parts and diff gears - salvaged from old Top Force build when changing to Manta Ray internals and using the lightweight EVO diffs on the Racing Special.

The silver can motors - small selection here, got probably twice this amount in othef boxes knocking around;

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These range from grotty looking zinc plating, two vent slots or four vent slots, grotty looking zinc plating with a square label, textured nickel plating, smooth satin nickel plating, shiny nickel plating, round label, long wires, short wires, a couple of Torque Tuneds (left over from TT01 drift kits) and a silver can Sport Tuned which i bought when first released as an experiment - reason being it now actually claims 23T on the box (Whats that all about then? !!!!!! Can this be true!!!! when we know Black Hole Sun disproved the myth on the black can by opening one up) so was going to incorporate them both into a running build to compare performance. Never happened in the end as I put my last black can in my recent SW build which wont run. Otherwise, no idea why there are so many different types of 540 Silver Can out there - I assume its just cosmetic and internally they are all identical.

ESC will likely be a TBLE02S as again got these left over although the one in the pink wrap is the new TBLE04S that came in the Calibra kit - any suggestions on whats likely to perform better out of the two?

Screws and fixings - over the August bank holiday I attempted to organise my fixings that were previously all in a single big tub and searching for anything specific involved ages scraping through it like a cat in a litter tray until i got bored and ordered new bits from Tony. Now stuff is roughly bagged up into screws (all), round things, hexagonal things, rubber things and "other" things which helps a bit.

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