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Superluminal

TA02 Racing Special + TA02SW + TA02W + TA02 Rally

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

They always show that poxy orange wire neatly vanishing in all the manuals.

I see now😲 your using the brushless ESC.

I've used the CPR unit on my 01 02 , sent you a few pics of my NASA standard wiring😉

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Will give the wing, roof thing and mirrors some primer today. These had also been sprayed blue like the body. Pretty sure its PS-16. While using the Tamiya body cleaner the wing snapped in too, suffering a stress effect. Im coming to the same conclusion as others that despite being good at paint removal they dont really do the plastic any good.

Ive glued it with Araldite and sanded down but cant see it surviving a rollover.

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The PS-16 had been applied to the plastic without a primer - its bloomin good stuff when you dont want it to come off! Its tough going to get off seems to etch into the surface of the plastic rather than sit over the surface like regular paints do. Pain when you dont want it on there though. 

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On 10/3/2022 at 11:16 AM, Superluminal said:

The PS-16 had been applied to the plastic without a primer - its bloomin good stuff when you dont want it to come off! Its tough going to get off seems to etch into the surface of the plastic rather than sit over the surface like regular paints do. Pain when you dont want it on there though. 

Is there really a need to remove it? Can't you just sand it smooth and prime/paint over it? When real cars get resprayed, they don't normally take it back to metal. 

Regarding your bodyshell with paint flecks - have you considered painting it from the outside, also like real cars? You'd no longer have the problem of seeing all the blue flecks through the polycarbonate. You could even paint the inside primer colour or silver, so that if it gets scratched during running, you see the primer or 'metal' body underneath. 

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On 10/2/2022 at 7:11 PM, Superluminal said:

Also, the battery appears to have a plastic nubbin thing on the end that interferes with the battery retainer clip. I thought these were the same shape and size as old school nicad batteries??

Very large capacity batteries tend to be physically larger than smaller capacity ones of the same chemistry. I've gotten around this in the past by removing the plastic end pieces from the battery and replacing the heatshrink wrapping. 

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24 minutes ago, rich_f said:

Is there really a need to remove it? Can't you just sand it smooth and prime/paint over it? When real cars get resprayed, they don't normally take it back to metal. 

Regarding your bodyshell with paint flecks - have you considered painting it from the outside, also like real cars? You'd no longer have the problem of seeing all the blue flecks through the polycarbonate. You could even paint the inside primer colour or silver, so that if it gets scratched during running, you see the primer or 'metal' body underneath. 

I think in hindsight I could have primed them with a light coat of grey primer and then white primer to provide a fresh starting point. Ive since undercoated, painted TS-26 white and clear coated thw roof vent thing and the wing and theyve come out ok.

I think im still going to paint inside despite the blue specs - theres hopefully enough if the green and red swirly castrol decals to take the eye off the worst of it. Plus its going to get knocked about quite a bit when running. Ive been fortunate enough to aquire two other NIB 58201 kits over the last couple of years so in the future I will be able to build a spotless one.

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Over the last few weeks got this masked and painted. Had to mask the outside as the old shell doesnt have a film over it and then cut out some window masks by tracing over the window decals.

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This wasnt my finest work! Althouh its just white it was very hard to tell how well the paint had laid down due to the opaque outside so its a bit thin in places.

Then had a go at the shoe goo and dry lining tape which actually went ok. This stuffs smells amazing and youbcan spend the rest of the afternoon picking it off your hands and arms like transparent scabs :wub:

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And theres a lot more blue than could be seen after i thought id stripped it.

Fortunately the decals are busy enough to take your eye of the bule haze.

Unfortunately they were MCI decals and i dindnt get on with them that well at all. For a start the print qualiity was quite pixelly with colour bleed around the edges. And the tried and tested soapy warm water didnt seem to work here. It just took the glue off so they barely stuck in places and some just arent scaled correcctly to fit the body. Theye on now and from four feet away look 'ok' but not sure i would try them again. But its an old cracked shell built for bashing.

So its done and ready for some rallying when the weather improves

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With really really thick heavy tinted glasses it looks ace🥸

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In all seriousness mate it does look very smart😉👍🏻

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Looks good to me 👍🏻 It’ll be even better with a layer of rally dust on it.

Sorry to here you didn’t get on with MCI decals. I’ve heard of pixelisation’s in other’s sticker sheets too. I’ve just used some custom design your own from them and on the whole turned out very well.

Probably blow your budget for the rally build off, but have you thought of a HW 1060 brushed ESC to get rid of the orange wire?

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10 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Looks good to me 👍🏻 It’ll be even better with a layer of rally dust on it.

Cheers! It will definitely - although its been fairly torrential rain here almost every day for the past month conditions will be a bit of an RAC Welsh rally out there and im not sure how weatherproof my electronics are. Will see if I can make a waterproof enclosure for the receiver like that comes on the TT02 parts sprues.

10 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Probably blow your budget for the rally build off, but have you thought of a HW 1060 brushed ESC to get rid of the orange wire?

Yeah i would normally use a 1060 as have got on well with them on other builds especially when using higher turn motors like the Superstocks that the standard TBLE02 isnt rated for. Plus theyre waterproof too if I recall and I only ever used brushed motors (havent quite moved on to the world of brushless yet)

A new one would definitley have blown the budget as ive got a few of the TBLE02 & 04 esc knocking around left over from the kits ive bought in the past so were effectively "free". And is im using a silver can motor it shouldnt be too stressed. There are some reports though that these have a pants internal BEC and depending on the servo used either shutdown completely or glitch and cause steering problems when too much current is drawn. Im using a Savox digital servo (not an expensive hi torque powerful one) but if it causes problems will probably put a HW1060 in there and then be free of the horrible orange wire!

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Glued in some foam sheet to make some inner fenders and mud flaps, will hopefully keep most of the crud out of the esc and reciever. Really like how the ShoeGoo dries with a bit of heat.

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Made some cockpit cages to go in the TA02SW and TA002W bodies Ive got.

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Porsche Taisan GT2 - the left hand drive cockpit is much easier to work on as its got a full dasboard area rather than a pod like the rhd cockpits. The roof line of the porsche is also squarer and mor upright with better clearance over the drivers noggin.

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Toms Castrol Supra - 

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Clarion Nismo GTR LM - 

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Ive tried to keep the arrangement of the cage tubes relatively close to the real ones, the best source of info was looking at the 1/24 scale models as pictures of the real things are a bit thin on the ground. Will spray them when it warms up a bit.

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Well this being the long bank holiday weekend its the first time the weather has been ok enough to do some spraying (apart from today which is gash)

Sprayed the Taisan Porsche GT2 and the Castrol Supra bodies. Nice and easy as windows being the only masking and they were all one colour.

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Im currently waiting for the clear coat on the mirrors and wings to dry before doing the stickers.

Also painted the two cockpits. The helmet paint colour schemes are very loosely based on the actual drivers of the 1995 and 1996 JGTC - Pedro De La Rosa in the Supra and Anthony Reid in the Porsche although they are not 100% accurate and its really difficult to find photos. 

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The detail of the right hand drive cockpit isnt anywhere near as nice as moulding of that on the left hand drive one.

Still need to paint the Nissan Nismo GTR LM but wasnt brave enough this weekend to attempt the masking of it to separate the cherry red pink and white colours.

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Nice one👍🏻

Never thought about clear coating the mirrors and spoiler, good Idea 

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Just now, svenb said:

Nice one👍🏻

Never thought about clear coating the mirrors and spoiler, good Idea 

Only as i painted them in PS white and black paint and its not turned out very shiny like the polycarbonate on the body

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On 4/10/2023 at 6:59 PM, Superluminal said:

The detail of the right hand drive cockpit isnt anywhere near as nice as moulding of that on the left hand drive one.

I wonder if this has something to do with the cars that each cockpit was originally based on - the right-hand drive one presumably being the Skyline R32 group A (which it looks pretty much identical to) and the left-hand version being... the BMW M3 E30? Just had a look at the interior for that and it does seem to have that extra switch panel behind the gear stick.

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On 4/14/2023 at 10:28 PM, rich_f said:

I wonder if this has something to do with the cars that each cockpit was originally based on - the right-hand drive one presumably being the Skyline R32 group A (which it looks pretty much identical to) and the left-hand version being... the BMW M3 E30? Just had a look at the interior for that and it does seem to have that extra switch panel behind the gear stick.

Yeah pretty sure they are the same moulding from back in the day although theres been a couple of variations on the stickers.

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Today it took about 9 hours to apply the stickers to the Castrol Supra - lots of soapy water and a heat gun. Some of the green and red swoopy shapes didnt seem to be designed to go where they were supposed to and needed a lot of stretching - also one of the things that really bugs me, especially on the window rbbers, theres not 0.1mm to spare in the sticker when it could be designed with some overlap. Especially on multi piece stickers that make up one shape, its annoying having gaps because its really difficult to work out where the first piece goes only to the realise its in slightly the wrong place for the next piece - theres a couple of small mistakes.

Also, some of the stickers were supposed to be applied over a moulded louvre on the bonnet - this was never going to work as you could never get the sticker pressed into the gap properly so i ended up touching up the '36' with paint. Im pretty sure on later kits the louvre is a sticker instead. The tyre stickers havent stuck very well either - they are probably close to 25 years old so arent as flexible and sticky as they were originally. This has been one of my holy grail kits for a very long time and im glad its finished now - Porsche next weekend.

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Stunning car my friend. Any tips on how you made the door/bonnet/panel lines?

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51 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

Stunning car my friend. Any tips on how you made the door/bonnet/panel lines?

Thank you! Its ABC hobby 0.3mm lining tape, its not quite as user friendly as the Kyosho line tape but is a bit neater than i can draw by hand

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Finished the body on the Porsche today. The chassis for this has undergone a couple of minor changes since last year - i put the ebay two piece aluminium wheels on and recently got hold of the hop up 53145 urethane bumper kit.

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After the Castrol Supra last weekend i thought this would be easy to sticker up. Couldnt have been more wrong. There arent that many but crikey were they a pain!!!

The red / black stripe decal over the rear arches just didnt want to sit flat and then line up with the upper piece that goes around the window frame. I managed it in the end but theres some crinkles in the sticker i just couldnt get out no matter how much heat and pressing down i tried. The STP logo on the bonnet was the same and rewuired multiple attempts to get it to fit properly. I also fitted some 1mm screws into the arches.

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I wish i had a bigger room for taking photos in!! My house is too small to put a table in.

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On 4/22/2023 at 8:00 PM, Superluminal said:

Finished the body on the Porsche today. The chassis for this has undergone a couple of minor changes since last year - i put the ebay two piece aluminium wheels on and recently got hold of the hop up 53145 urethane bumper kit.

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After the Castrol Supra last weekend i thought this would be easy to sticker up. Couldnt have been more wrong. There arent that many but crikey were they a pain!!!

The red / black stripe decal over the rear arches just didnt want to sit flat and then line up with the upper piece that goes around the window frame. I managed it in the end but theres some crinkles in the sticker i just couldnt get out no matter how much heat and pressing down i tried. The STP logo on the bonnet was the same and rewuired multiple attempts to get it to fit properly. I also fitted some 1mm screws into the arches.

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I wish i had a bigger room for taking photos in!! My house is too small to put a table in.

Great job on this and the Supra, they both came out really wel.

 

I had the same issue with Taisan decals in exaclty the same places although one side of the red stripes went down with 'crinkles' in them the other side went on first time with no issues at all - go figure :-(

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Thanks mate, i think If i was to do it again I would cut out the black sections and just apply the red stripes individualy as with the body painted black they are largely uneccessary and just mean the sticker is larger and less flexible than it needs to be.

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