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Ducky177

Tamiya TT02 build help?

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I'm going to be building a touring/drift car with a TT02 chassis.

My questions are:

 

1: What motor and ESC should I get?

Is this combo good?

https://www.hobbywing.com/mobile/goods.php?id=578&filter_attr=5456.0

 

2: Should I get a TT02 Type SR, TT02R or a TT02 Type S?

The prices I found:

TT02 Type SR  199€

TT02R               126€

TT02 Type S     157€

 

3: What hop ups would you recommend?

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20 minutes ago, Ducky177 said:

I'm going to be building a touring/drift car with a TT02 chassis.

My questions are:

 

1: What motor and ESC should I get?

Is this combo good?

https://www.hobbywing.com/mobile/goods.php?id=578&filter_attr=5456.0

 

2: Should I get a TT02 Type SR, TT02R or a TT02 Type S?

The prices I found:

TT02 Type SR  199€

TT02R               126€

TT02 Type S     157€

 

3: What hop ups would you recommend?

Are you going to be parking lot bashing, or spec racing with it?

-RC Perspective

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25 minutes ago, RC Perspective said:

Are you going to be parking lot bashing, or spec racing with it?

-RC Perspective

Bashing

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1 hour ago, Ducky177 said:

Bashing

I don't have experience with the brushless combo you listed, but should be a decent setup. (It's listed as 4000Kv)

I went with the 3652 HW EZRUN MAX10 4000Kv brushless combo and its more than enough.

I went with the TT02R, though haven't had the other two to compare, so I'd wait until someone else chimes in on that. I'm happy with my R though.

Worthwhile hop-ups are either the Tamiya Type-S steering setup or the standard Tamiya aluminum steering setup. (Type-S steering set is not to be confused with TT02 type-S stock steering).

High speed gear set, oil shocks, aluminum 12mm hex spacers for the wheels in various thicknesses, universal shafts. And if you switch to 48p gears your options open up quite drastically for gearing (high speed gear set is required to do this). High torque servo saver.

That should cover the basics for bashing, though some of the models listed already come with some of this stuff, so make sure you know what the one you choose comes with to avoid getting double hop-ups (not really a bad thing to have spares though!)

I most likely didn't cover it all, but some more knowledgeable members are sure to pop in here and cover anything I have missed.

My TT02R build thread - Includes parts and part numbers - 

 

-RC Perspective

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3 hours ago, RC Perspective said:

I don't have experience with the brushless combo you listed, but should be a decent setup. (It's listed as 4000Kv)

I went with the 3652 HW EZRUN MAX10 4000Kv brushless combo and its more than enough.

I went with the TT02R, though haven't had the other two to compare, so I'd wait until someone else chimes in on that. I'm happy with my R though.

Worthwhile hop-ups are either the Tamiya Type-S steering setup or the standard Tamiya aluminum steering setup. (Type-S steering set is not to be confused with TT02 type-S stock steering).

High speed gear set, oil shocks, aluminum 12mm hex spacers for the wheels in various thicknesses, universal shafts. And if you switch to 48p gears your options open up quite drastically for gearing (high speed gear set is required to do this). High torque servo saver.

That should cover the basics for bashing, though some of the models listed already come with some of this stuff, so make sure you know what the one you choose comes with to avoid getting double hop-ups (not really a bad thing to have spares though!)

I most likely didn't cover it all, but some more knowledgeable members are sure to pop in here and cover anything I have missed.

My TT02R build thread - Includes parts and part numbers - 

 

-RC Perspective

Is the metal DF02 diff pinion necessary?

Or does the stock hold up?

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8 minutes ago, Ducky177 said:

Is the metal DF02 diff pinion necessary?

Or does the stock hold up?

If you're running on 2s lipo it really should be fine.

If you are hard on it, or plan to be running 3s lipo at all, it'd be a worthwhile mod. 

If you run on the lower punch levels on 2s that stock pinion should be fine. I really do beat the crap out of mine so I went with the metal pinions. 

If you do use it, just make sure you file down the back of it to match the stock pinion.

-RC Perspective

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1 minute ago, RC Perspective said:

If you're running on 2s lipo it really should be fine.

If you are hard on it, or plan to be running 3s lipo at all, it'd be a worthwhile mod. 

If you run on the lower punch levels on 2s that stock pinion should be fine. I really do beat the crap out of mine so I went with the metal pinions. 

If you do use it, just make sure you file down the back of it to match the stock pinion.

-RC Perspective

Oh ok, probably going to put it on anyways even if I'm only going to use 2s just for reliability sake. Btw which gearing do you use?

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1 minute ago, Ducky177 said:

Oh ok, probably going to put it on anyways even if I'm only going to use 2s just for reliability sake. Btw which gearing do you use?

I started out with 27/68, IIRC got me around 40-50MPH. Now equipped with 47/48 for speed runs. (lots of cogging at low speed).

-RC Perspective

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16 minutes ago, RC Perspective said:

I started out with 27/68, IIRC got me around 40-50MPH. Now equipped with 47/48 for speed runs. (lots of cogging at low speed).

-RC Perspective

Is that with 3s?

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11 minutes ago, Ducky177 said:

Is that with 3s?

2s should get you in that ballpark with 27/68

Everyone else broke 100mph with 3s; I'm attempting it on 2s.

Which is why I have designed and 3d printed a full aero underbody kit for it. Every little bit helps, I just gotta get out and run it.

-RC Perspective

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14 minutes ago, RC Perspective said:

2s should get you in that ballpark with 27/68

Everyone else broke 100mph with 3s; I'm attempting it on 2s.

Which is why I have designed and 3d printed a full aero underbody kit for it. Every little bit helps, I just gotta get out and run it.

-RC Perspective

Do you think a 3300kv max 10 is enough with that gearing?

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18 minutes ago, Ducky177 said:

Do you think a 3300kv max 10 is enough with that gearing?

A 3300kv will be slightly slower IIRC. Generally the lower you go with KV, the less rpms you'll get. It should be able to run the 27/68 gearing though. A little less top end on it.

I find the 4000Kv right on that fine line of too much power/just enough power. If you switch to 48p gears, you can fit a smaller spur gear to squeeze more speed out of it.

If I need to be corrected on some of that info I'm sure someone else will chime in.

-RC Perspective

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21 hours ago, RC Perspective said:

A 3300kv will be slightly slower IIRC. Generally the lower you go with KV, the less rpms you'll get. It should be able to run the 27/68 gearing though. A little less top end on it.

I find the 4000Kv right on that fine line of too much power/just enough power. If you switch to 48p gears, you can fit a smaller spur gear to squeeze more speed out of it.

If I need to be corrected on some of that info I'm sure someone else will chime in.

-RC Perspective

I could put a 29/64 gearing and almost get the same results. 29/64 is the highest gearing on the tt02 gearing chart.

3300kv 2s 29/64 = spur gear at 11065rpm

 

4000kv 2s 27/68 = spur gear at 11753rpm

Should I?

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6 minutes ago, Ducky177 said:

I could put a 29/64 gearing and almost get the same results. 29/64 is the highest gearing on the tt02 gearing chart.

3300kv 2s 29/64 = spur gear at 11,065rpm

 

4000kv 2s 27/68 = spur gear at 11753rpm

Should I?

29/64 may or may not require a little filing of the cover to fit.

The Tamiya gearing chart only covers Mod6 gearing available through Tamiya IIRC. Over that you'd have to modify the cover to fit.

Also, don't run an aluminum pinion on the motor if you are running brushless. Go for a steel pinion as the aluminum, even if hardened will disintegrate.

You could, but the 3300kv may get warmer than the 4000kv at the same speeds. Ultimately it is up to you.

-RC Perspective

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24 minutes ago, Ducky177 said:

What is this?

If I Remember Correctly, or If I Recall Correctly.

-RC Perspective

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19 hours ago, RC Perspective said:

If I Remember Correctly, or If I Recall Correctly.

-RC Perspective

Thanks. 

I have a question where did you file down the DF02 diff pinion?

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6 hours ago, Ducky177 said:

Thanks. 

I have a question where did you file down the DF02 diff pinion?

The flat on the opposite side of the gear face, where it goes onto the prop shaft end. The base is too tall to fit on the TT02, so you just have to file it down to match. If you have both of them in front of you, you'll be able to see what I mean. 

I'm gonna see if I can dig out a pic for ya.

-RC Perspective

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6 hours ago, Ducky177 said:

Thanks. 

I have a question where did you file down the DF02 diff pinion?

Here ya go. 

Inked-PXL-20210819-151102360.jpg

-RC Perspective

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8 hours ago, RC Perspective said:

Here ya go. 

Inked-PXL-20210819-151102360.jpg

-RC Perspective

Oh ok, I was a bit confused where I needed to do it. So thank you very much for all the help.

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6 hours ago, Ducky177 said:

Oh ok, I was a bit confused where I needed to do it. So thank you very much for all the help.

No problem bud!

-RC Perspective

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2 hours ago, RC Perspective said:

No problem bud!

-RC Perspective

So today I will order everything, can't wait to get started with it!

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6 minutes ago, Ducky177 said:

So today I will order everything, can't wait to get started with it!

Sounds good! I know that feeling too! Exactly the same feeling when I ordered mine and way too many hop-ups :lol:

Useful tools will be a JIS screwdriver, body scissors, body reamer, and exacto knife. As always be careful working with sharp instruments.

Regarding the screws into the plastic; Once you use the screw to cut the initial threads, when putting the screws back in, turn counter-clockwise first until you feel the screw drop down. This puts it back in the same thread as before, and will prevent you from stripping threads.

Take your time, also if you haven't already, keep going through "The Builds" subforum for other TT02 builds. They can benefit from shims in certain places, and there are quite a few posts in build threads about it already. Plus you'll come across some of the stuff I haven't covered. 

Between that and what I have covered, you will hopefully become a well informed and happy TT02 owner!

-RC Perspective

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On 6/23/2022 at 3:04 PM, RC Perspective said:

Sounds good! I know that feeling too! Exactly the same feeling when I ordered mine and way too many hop-ups :lol:

Useful tools will be a JIS screwdriver, body scissors, body reamer, and exacto knife. As always be careful working with sharp instruments.

Regarding the screws into the plastic; Once you use the screw to cut the initial threads, when putting the screws back in, turn counter-clockwise first until you feel the screw drop down. This puts it back in the same thread as before, and will prevent you from stripping threads.

Take your time, also if you haven't already, keep going through "The Builds" subforum for other TT02 builds. They can benefit from shims in certain places, and there are quite a few posts in build threads about it already. Plus you'll come across some of the stuff I haven't covered. 

Between that and what I have covered, you will hopefully become a well informed and happy TT02 owner!

-RC Perspective

I built it last Friday and I have ran it through two full charges with a 3s 4500 mAh battery on 60% throttle. And it has held completely except from that the wing on my body broke a little. And with my gearing 27/68 and a 3300kv motor it's fast enough on 60% throttle. Although I didn't buy the metal shaft pinion it has held up. The reason for the 60% throttle is that I wanted it to behave more like 2s instead of 3s.

IMG_20220702_123554.jpg

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On 6/23/2022 at 3:04 PM, RC Perspective said:

Sounds good! I know that feeling too! Exactly the same feeling when I ordered mine and way too many hop-ups :lol:

Useful tools will be a JIS screwdriver, body scissors, body reamer, and exacto knife. As always be careful working with sharp instruments.

Regarding the screws into the plastic; Once you use the screw to cut the initial threads, when putting the screws back in, turn counter-clockwise first until you feel the screw drop down. This puts it back in the same thread as before, and will prevent you from stripping threads.

Take your time, also if you haven't already, keep going through "The Builds" subforum for other TT02 builds. They can benefit from shims in certain places, and there are quite a few posts in build threads about it already. Plus you'll come across some of the stuff I haven't covered. 

Between that and what I have covered, you will hopefully become a well informed and happy TT02 owner!

-RC Perspective

Btw what size wheels did u use for the skyline body? And what offset?

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