Looking for brushed ESC (NOT A HW1060)

[rwordenjr 1890]

On the hunt for a cheap brushed esc with lipo cutoff that is not automatic throttle set up.. the hw 1060 escs brakes are not good and i think its because the automatic throttle calibration feature. Any ideas?

[El Gecko 1344]

Well I can say from experience that the HW1060 brakes are just weak compared to some others. The Radiolink Cool 9030 I had seemed good, but I only use NiMH and the Lipo cutoff couldn't be disabled. The throttle/brakes could be manually calibrated on power-up, so perhaps that would good for you.

If you want more tuning options, the HW1080 has programming for all kinds of things, and from what I've read the brakes are better than the 1060. If you want to keep it simple, there are other 1060-based ESCs that seem to be a bit better, particularly the one from Jrelecs with a black heatsink.

I'm not sure if any of these are available where you live, but I've also picked up a few cheap ESCs labeled variously "powerhobby" or "new rain" or "fire phoenix" which are blue cases with gold heatsinks (most with fans), and although I don't use Lipos they do have a Lipo cutoff setting so they should work. They're rated 480/80A vs. the 360/60A of a HW1060, and I can tell a significant difference in torque and speed when using them with low-turn motors, and the brakes are far stronger as well. (the motor seems to get more power from the batteries with the 480, although the batteries do drain faster and the whole system gets a lot hotter)

[Andreas W 1556]

Modelsport Trident XT 12 seems like a competent ESC, if you are in the UK. I have wanted to try one,  but am satisfied with the HW1060 until now. On high grip surface I see your point about weak brakes. 

[Mad Ax 9329]

If you're looking in the same pricepoint as the 1060, you could try the Etronix Probe WP.  It's a well-featured speedo for the price, with LiPo cutoff, 15 turn motor limit and some adjustable settings.  IIRC it has a proper Set button for configuring throttle and brake.  I must have 7-8 of these and never had a problem with them, even one that is missing its heatsink still works fine.  I can't comment on how hot the brakes are compared to the 1060 as I don't usually run the two back-to-back.

https://www.makeitbuildit.co.uk/etronix-probe-wp-brushed-esc-w-15t-limit-lipo-cut-off-7749?gclid=Cj0KCQjwn4qWBhCvARIsAFNAMihn6sZ4vYnOJFPlMtXtuL7P_0R4B8xIlutm5rQNvnr2utXg6rFgA1MaAiHyEALw_wcB

I know a lot of people recommend the 1080 as a more advanced version of the 1060, but personally I don't like it for anything but crawling (and I won't use anything else for crawling).  I can't seem to fully disable the overrun brake - even with the drag brake full disabled and freewheeling enabled, if I'm rolling along with the throttle in neutral and I feed in a bit more power, it has the effect of slamming the brakes on hard.  I've never noticed this with any other ESC.

[rwordenjr 1890]

10 hours ago, Andreas W said:

Modelsport Trident XT 12 seems like a competent ESC, if you are in the UK. I have wanted to try one,  but am satisfied with the HW1060 until now. On high grip surface I see your point about weak brakes. 

I'm in USA but that looks to be a mtroniks rebrand. never tried those but does look appealing. will try to get some of the modelsport ones somehow 

[alvinlwh 5895]

I have the 1040 and it seems to me that it's brake is better than the 1060. Not sure why though. Unfortunately no lipo settings 

[Nicadraus 6201]

The HW1080 will be the best bang-for-the-buck brushed ESC. Lots of setting can be done depending on your desired driving style. I have a few running on my crawler, rally car and on-road car. Works really great plus really easy to set up.

[Big Jon 684]

I'm a huge fan of the 1080. Excellent brakes, excellent control, and great programming options.

You have to DISABLE freewheeling for speedy cars. Sounds counterintuitive to me, but there it is.

[rwordenjr 1890]

I ended up getting 2 mtroniks storm x's.. we'll see how they work 

[Wooders28 4723]

On 7/4/2022 at 1:17 AM, rwordenjr said:

the hw 1060 escs brakes are not good

Actually found the drag brake better in for/rev than the actual brakes in for/br /rev!! 

In the end, I've set it to for / rev and altered the end point on reverse to control the extra brake strength.

[Mrowka 496]

Apparently ARRMA makes brushed ESCs. 

[GeeWings 2830]

I’m also a big fan of the 1080. I’m a light user in fairness but they have all been reliable and I love the amount of running you can do with the included program card.

 I’ve not noticed the issues you raised @Mad Ax but again I’m not a seasoned driver so those issues could have passed me by unnoticed!

[Imperator 0]

On 7/10/2022 at 3:00 PM, Wooders28 said:

Actually found the drag brake better in for/rev than the actual brakes in for/br /rev!! 

In the end, I've set it to for / rev and altered the end point on reverse to control the extra brake strength.

Could you explain what alteration you made to the reverse end point and how this helps? Thanks

[Wooders28 4723]

1 hour ago, Imperator said:

Could you explain what alteration you made to the reverse end point and how this helps? Thanks

In the for/rev setting, it's like the old msc, as it goes straight into reverse, (unlike the for/brake/ rev setting where it brakes first, then you need to go back to neutral, and back again to get reverse).

If you alter the reverse end point on the transmitter ,to say 20%, full reverse is 20% reverse power, so in, for/ rev setting ,you can go flat out, slam it into full reverse (in reality is only 20% ) and the car quickly slows (then goes backwards, once you come to a complete stop, but you let off the stick by then), also means you've variable 'brakes' ,ie half stick is 10%.

If you're running a 2wd on dirt, you can just alter it to down 10 or 12% etc , or running a 4wd on grass, just up it to whatever suits (although a boomerang on a high grip, running a 15t firebolt, made some juddery sounds above around 60% if memory serves...😳, but did stand on its nose.).

I started at 0%, then with car stationary, held it in reverse, and raised the end point until the car actually started to move (upto about 5%, the motor just hums anyway) then tried it, until I got what I wanted. There is the downside, that you kind of loose your reverse ,well, it can be just really really slow...