Jump to content
GTodd

How Durable is the DB01???

Recommended Posts

Good Morning all.  How durable is the DB01? Why do I ask? I’m tired of my Top Force breaking.  It’s the OG one, I’ve had it since I was kid, at this point the only thing that’s actually left since I was a kid is the chassis, some of the internals, and suspension arms. All new plastics just due to replacing broken parts. Yet it still breaks.

I like Tamiya, I’m not attempting to win anything, and I just want to go to the track and go home when I want to not when a parts breaks due to barely hitting the wall. 
 

The losi and TA guys crash, roll, hit things going much faster than me, and they don’t break. But they are freaking ugly and are easily 400 US. The DB01 can be had for roughly 200 US.
 

so all that said is the db01 durable? Can it take a shunt and keep going? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would have thought replacement parts for a DB01 would have been harder to get than than the Top Force as its inevitable something will break on it somewhere. Although it does seem some Durgas have resurfaced recently so maybe there are some spares hanging around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Overall, yes, it's durable.

On a base DB01 kit like a Durga or a Baldre, it's a good idea to upgrade the frontmost and rearmost plastic suspension mounts to aluminum.  The rear one can flex under a hard crash and let the suspension arms come loose.  That leads to losing the pivot balls on the ends of the hinge pin.  But the aluminum suspension mounts take care of that issue completely.

Also, the base DB01 kit and first DB01R kit include ball diffs, not gear diffs.  If you choose to keep the ball diffs then care must be taken to secure the diff rings to the joint cups; they're not indexed and will slip.  I found I had to use rubber cement on them twice to get them to stick properly.  It's better to upgrade to TRF501 one-piece metal diff joints and tungsten carbide diff balls, and follow the TRF501x build procedure.  Or, get the DB01RR gear diff parts and put gear diffs in instead.

If you're going to run some semi-serious power like 4000kV+ brushless, you might want to upgrade from the base drive belts to the reinforced drive belts as well as a slipper clutch from the R and RR.  It's better to have the slipper slip, not the diffs slip (much).  If you run the gear diffs then the dual slipper (front and rear slip independently) could make some sense.

There aren't any major structural problems to worry about.  Just some simple upgrades to suspension mounts, diffs, belts, and slipper.  As others have pointed out, DB01 kits and parts stock are starting to get a little thin.  Also, you have to consider the wheels are unique to this model with pin drive rear wheels and shallow hex front wheels.  You can make changes to run 12mm hexes all around, but that adds even more cost.

If you are going to a track to drive, add up the cost of a DB01 project, and consider the LHS support situation, then you may very well be better served by an Associated or Losi product instead.  They're current and proven products for that environment, setup tips can be shared freely with other racers at the track, and parts/consumables support is going to be faster/easier/less hassle.  The racer mindset is not the same as the collector and casual driver mindsets.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DB01 is in another league compared to the TF. 
 

If you buy the base model - which is the only one easily found new - you will need 

501x steel diff outdrives 

alloy suspension mounts 

carbon reinforced suspension balls or the metal / ceramic balls

You can live without a slipper unless you are racing modified class and on a high grip surface. 
 

It’s a great car (not surprising as it’s basically a Losi clone).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

There are some tamiya spareparts in (south east) asia countries, if u desperately want it. Most of em are local hobby shops old stocks that no one want to buy ( RC hobby is expensive). Example:2.thumb.png.ee6f95c0b39cfa103b9cb5154c4a107f.pngr01.thumb.png.caa10a82c42717e78fd5315708173a99.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys! Selling my Terra Scorcher that I restored and never drive to fund!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@GTodd thanks for posting. I have just picked up a base model Durga and the dual slipper, nothing else. I've heard such good things about the DB01, its good to know that I just need the alloy suspension mounts and its pretty bullerproof. Mine will end up seeing a track at some point, but I have others for full time use there, this shoukd be fun though.

Also, alloy dampers look cool.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

@GTodd thanks for posting. I have just picked up a base model Durga and the dual slipper, nothing else. I've heard such good things about the DB01, its good to know that I just need the alloy suspension mounts and its pretty bullerproof. Mine will end up seeing a track at some point, but I have others for full time use there, this shoukd be fun though.

Also, alloy dampers look cool.

Where did you find the dual slipper? Only thing I can’t find!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/10/2022 at 5:27 PM, speedy_w_beans said:

It's better to upgrade to TRF501 one-piece metal diff joints and tungsten carbide diff balls, and follow the TRF501x build procedure.  Or, get the DB01RR gear diff parts and put gear diffs in instead.

I've recently purchased a Durga and some hopups already🙂

Thanks for the info above mate. Can you elaborate a little on the info and maybe post some part numbers if poss? Not being familiar enough with the DB-01 yet I'm getting a little lost trying to follow exactly what the parts are that you're recommending.

I've bought two of the Tamiya 54329 (OP1329) DB01 Gear Differential Units. Will they do the job?

On 7/10/2022 at 6:15 PM, Howards said:

501x steel diff outdrives 

alloy suspension mounts 

carbon reinforced suspension balls or the metal / ceramic balls

Again, thanks bud, do you have more info or part numbers perhaps?

I've bought the ally suspension blocks and the ally mounts too. And 2 sets of the Tamiya 54205 (OP1205) DB01 Aluminum Damper Bushing, is that what you mean by suspension balls?

Also got a double slipper on the way from Tamiya USA and a few other ally bits already here or on their way from PJ😃

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Parts:

  • Aluminum front suspension mount:  54037
  • Aluminum rear suspension mount:  54038
  • TRF501X diff joints:  51286
  • TRF501X diff plates:  51287
  • Tungsten carbide diff balls:  3mm balls, Acer or comparable
  • DB01 gear diff:  54329
  • Reinforced belts:  54140
  • Standard slipper clutch:  54018
  • Double slipper clutch:  54061

Beyond the basic durability upgrades listed above, the next big upgrade to consider would be better shocks.  I always felt like the kit CVAs included in the Durga kit worked fine on asphalt in the street, but didn't offer enough performance in the dirt.  Tamiya, 3Racing, and Yeah Racing all have several options to choose from.

After that, it's all personal preference.  Search on "DB-01" on TamiyaUSA.com and check the "show discontinued" box to show more.  Also go to RCMart.com and take a look through the replacement/upgrade parts for DB01 and TRF501x.  Also, Tamiya publishes a parts matching list that shows parts and upgrades here:  https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/matching/matching_list.pdf

Other than a TRF511x or TRF501x, the DB01 series was probably one of the best 4WD buggies Tamiya brought to market.  Advocates will say the model uses good plastics and machine screws, tends to be quiet and quite composed, and is very predictable.  Critics will say it's boring, heavy, and includes spaceship-blob bodies.  Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  Enjoy!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've hopped up my Durga pretty extensively, but I'm not sure how many of them are still available. Full list is in my showroom:

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=135819&id=33463

and a link to a very comprehensive list of parts:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17021

I would agree that the alloy or carbon filled lower arm mounts are vital, they constantly pop out of the standard ones. I'd also recommend cutting the fake vent in the body to be a real vent so you get some good air flow for the ESC, there's not a lot of room under the Durga body (better with the Baldre but not as pretty) and it is well sealed.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So how many of you are drug dealers in real life, or is it just the blue crack you push?

F and R alloy suspension mounts duly ordered, along with some TRF aeration dampers because, you know, spread the shipping cost out and all...

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fyi,  there is secret blackmarket chains that specialized in rc spareparts, especially blue tamiya one. The price constantly hiking these 3 years, i wonder why. Oh shyte this supposed to be a secret. In case im not online tomorrow and after, you guys know what happened to me.

  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The alloy suspension mounts. Do the small inner ones matter very much? The kit ones seem fine, decent hard plastic unlike the rubber outer ones.

Ok, so going beyond durability now. What spur gears are available? The kit has a 91T spur which will work for brushed and low turn brushless, but surely there is something around a 70T which would be suitable for 17.5T motors?

I don't have the dual slipper yet to know, but does that impact on what spur as well?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

The alloy suspension mounts. Do the small inner ones matter very much? The kit ones seem fine, decent hard plastic unlike the rubber outer ones.

Ok, so going beyond durability now. What spur gears are available? The kit has a 91T spur which will work for brushed and low turn brushless, but surely there is something around a 70T which would be suitable for 17.5T motors?

I don't have the dual slipper yet to know, but does that impact on what spur as well?

I think like the TRF201, there are kimbrough associated pattern spurs that fit. Not sure how small, but look up my old DB01R build thread. I definitely sorted the gearing for 13.5 in mine. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

but look up my old DB01R build thread

Do you have a link to that buddy? I searched you as the author and 'DB01R', got two pages of threads come up, but couldn't see your build thread for some reason

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Kol__ said:

Do you have a link to that buddy? I searched you as the author and 'DB01R', got two pages of threads come up, but couldn't see your build thread for some reason

Just had a search and seems I didn't do one. After mucking about with the diffs it was pretty much set and forget. 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Just had a search and seems I didn't do one. After mucking about with the diffs it was pretty much set and forget. 

Lol, no worries mate:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow this thread was on page 5, it seems like I was reading it yesterday...

Anyway, wheel hex conversion. Is it just a case of adding wheel hexes or does it need new axles? So universals may be a better option?

Whats with pin drive?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/17/2022 at 1:02 AM, Jonathon Gillham said:

Wow this thread was on page 5, it seems like I was reading it yesterday...

Anyway, wheel hex conversion. Is it just a case of adding wheel hexes or does it need new axles? So universals may be a better option?

Whats with pin drive?!

Tamiya makes a hex conversion to change the fronts from the odd 10mm back to the standard 12mm, and pin drive is the worst as they always get lost. Tamiya makes a rear pin drive hex conversion as well.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, GTodd said:

Tamiya makes a hex conversion to change the fronts from the odd 10mm back to the standard 12mm, and pin drive is the worst as they always get lost. Tamiya makes a rear pin drive hex conversion as well.

Thanks for this. I was expecting it to be pretty straightforward as don't the later versions come with hex drive? Do you know any part numbers by any chance?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Thanks for this. I was expecting it to be pretty straightforward as don't the later versions come with hex drive? Do you know any part numbers by any chance?

Plus 1:) Part numbers would be a great help 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...