Jump to content
Gdourado

Need some help please. How to properly clean a Nitro car?

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Hope everyone is doing well.

I recently got me a used Kyosho Inferno Neo ST.

It was a real bargain and an impulse buy. It is also my first Nitro Car.

From what I see, it seems in good condition. It does not have scratches on the underside, I cannot see any broken parts. Seems complete and  not used much.

It is just a bit dirty. So before I atempt to start the engine, I would like to give it a proper clean and some maintenance. But I just don’t know how to clean it and what products should I use for the cleaning and the aftercare.

I have attached a couple of pictures so you can better judge the condition.

Can you please point me out in the right direction?

Thank you!

81D1881D-C8DC-4156-94B0-84B0E70D9DEC.jpeg

614EC5A8-E969-47A1-8FED-8B3F9C80A714.jpeg

FCDC91B4-C860-44D8-99FF-3F9FE6D767B4.jpeg

AC7EB61F-5B48-4B3C-919C-487ADA3CC584.jpeg

4B559ADE-D85E-44CA-B694-7841454CCFAE.jpeg

63B93B6E-FCDC-47DE-A631-E73455733BA9.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WD40 will clean it up.

Where it is burnt on, manifold and pipe, use a cutting compound like Autosol.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Given you bought it secondhand and don't know how its been treated I would strip that down and check bearings and fluids. Nitro cars have a lot of power so you could easily have siezed bearings in the drivetrain but the car still moves. Ask how I know...

I bought a bearing kit for mine, but then went through the manual and ordered all the bearings, 10 or 20 of each size. Much cheaper, and I can now replace them as needed (eg hubs tend to wear more centre diff)

Also check fluids in the shocks and diffs. If its never been changed then the diffs could be full of metal scraps etc as the gears bed in, and they could all be empty.

I find that my 8th scale cars need much more maintence than 10th scale, I guess just because they are heavy and things are working harder.

Once apart then whatever cleaner. I use simple green on mine. A steel wool will clean up the pipe.

Other than that, the only difference between nitro and electric is taking care of the engine. After each race meet I take the engine out and take the back plate off and put after run oil in. People put it in the top or exhaust port, but that won't get down to the bearings. I have only had OS engines so yours may be different. I also change the filter every time (gets filthy running on dirt) and new clutch bearings (a few dollars of bearings could ruin an engine if they give up)

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the replies.

I bought some Nitro Fuel and will try to start the car tomorrow to at least know if I have a good engine or not.

It was very cheap, so I bought the car sight unseen and know nothing about it.

I don’t even know if the engine had a proper break in or not. With that in mind, if it does start, what should I do? Let it run on idle for a couple of tanks?

or should I shut it down and then knowing the engine runs, proceed to some tear down to do some cleaning and maintenance as suggested?

Thanks!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"After-run oil" Jonathon mentioned is very important.  Nitro fuel attracts water from the air.  It will rust in no time without after run oil.  For the same reason, never keep the fuel bottle open for more than a few seconds.  Moisture will spoil fuel very fast.  Also you may want a couple of extra glow plugs.  Those things burn out.  

When you pull the pull start string slowly, you can feel the compression.  Slow pop-pop-pop as the crank moves the piston.  If it has good compression, then the chances are it would run fine.  If it ran at least once, I doubt that you would need to break in.  But if it only ran once, you can idle one tank to break in.  Fuel with more lubricant would be better for a break in.   

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would do a full re-build before trying the engine.

Put the after run oil through the carb.

If non turbo head, use OS8 plug, which is a good quality medium heat plug.

To assess bore wear, rotate the flywheel so that piston is bottom dead center.  Remove head then rotate flywheel.  If liner rise, as piston height increases, then piston/liner is still good.

Nitro fuel may be hygroscopic, but you don't have to be that quick replacing the cap.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/3/2022 at 5:17 PM, M 800STD said:

WD40 will clean it up.

Where it is burnt on, manifold and pipe, use a cutting compound like Autosol.

I bought a very dirty RC10GT from charity Auction . 
I didn’t try autosol, but WD 40 yes every time . I also use it on my electric M/Ts and crawlers after I run them in mud. If you have access to an air compressor you can spray and scrub the WD40 and blast off the excess with air. Otherwise, wipe off the excess. 
On the same car, I had a seized up carburetor. I freed that up with some fresh nitro fuel to dissolve to old dried fuel. 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m also going to pipe in on after run oil. 
it it very much a “yes” but also don’t soak your your engine in so much that you hydraulically lock it or could your glow plug. A few drops with the glow plug out . Cycle the engine with the starter about 10 time and wipe off the excess is my advice.

And nothing against commercial RC specific after rut oils, but I have been using a blend of automatic transmission fluid , and marvel mystery oil. 
you can mix up about a liter of that mixture for less than the cost of a tiny medicine drop bottle of RC after run oil . Some people even use just straight Marvel Mystery Oil.

Traxxas recommends WD40 as after run oil , but that sounds like advice from a RTR company that wants you to buy a new engine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I ran nitro back in the late 90's, I used nitro cleaner spray to clean my car.  I am not certain whether such chemicals still exist..

Since you folks are talking about glow engine maintenance (and since I've been away for more than 20years :wacko:)  I have no idea what folks are using today.. Would you please let me know:

 

A. What fuel brand and type (percentage) you would recommend for a Kyosho Inferno MP9 RTR (new)?

B. Which after-run oil I should get.  (just use off the shelf 3-in-1 oil?)

C. Good glow plugs?

 

I am in the USA so I would like to try getting something that is available stateside..  TIA!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

A. What fuel brand and type (percentage) you would recommend for a Kyosho Inferno MP9 RTR (new)?

B. Which after-run oil I should get.  (just use off the shelf 3-in-1 oil?)

C. Good glow plugs?

 

A. I’m still looking for a good fuel . I have heard nothing but praise for Bone’s Brew  if you are in the states . Right now I’m trying to use up the last of some Traxxas top fuel 33% I got for free . Waste not want not . 
Once I exists that I plan to order some Bone’s 25% 

B. I Personally  use a blend of Auto transmission fluid and Marvel Mystery. 
some folks swear by ATF and 3n1 oil . 
Both ATF and MMO have corrosion inhibitors and MMO is also commonly used as a pickling/ storage oil and it smells great. ( ATF smells terrible though ) 

3. I don’t know for your specific application. But the 2 keys are plug length and temperature. Some people don’t have a proper tune and swear by “ hot plug for cold weather cold plug for summer “ . However, once you find the correct plug temp range . Stick with it, tune accordingly and it will run like a champ without chasing after the right plug for every situation. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A.  25%

B.  ?

C.  OS8, assuming non-turbo head.

I use Model Technics fuel and after run in my cars and boats, in the UK.

Don't know what brands are recommended State-side.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...