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TT-02 65mm shoks mount

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Hi guys!

As a break from modeling the Wild One 1/24 replica, I decided to get some Yeah Racing Big Bore Go 65mm shocks and model new mounts for my rally spec TT02.  After printing on the FDM printer, it was necessary to slightly expand the holes for the upper arms.  Modeled almost to size to avoid backlash.  It will be necessary to finish this moment.  In the end, the springs on these shocks were too stiff, so I decided to temporarily cut the old Traxxas Slash rear springs, which somehow work))  So, the question is, which springs would be 2 times softer compared to standard ones and would fit my shocks?  I'm interested in your opinion on such a mod too)

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I have researched big bore springs for a long time and my disappointing conclusion is that there is nothing soft enough for rallying on the market. You will find drift springs labeled as " very soft" but they will still be way too stiff.

My advice for your TT-02 is a set of CC-01 shocks with Tamiya rally springs. These shocks are TRF quality and very affordable. They do not come with springs you won't need. And they are long enough to fit your goal of longer damper spec type of build. I can measure them and share my rally setup if that helps.

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@Pylon80 of course! I want to see your setup. with part numbers, please) Right now, as second temporary decision, I'm waiting shocks from wltoys 144001. It's thinner and 5mm longer. And twice as soft, than stock TT02. In my opinion, after using - BBG for bashing, not for rally.

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Here goes:

Parts: CC-01 Aluminium Shocks 54541, Tamiya Rally springs 53163, Tamiya Aluminium Spacer Set 53539

Setup: Note: I am by no means an expert but this is my current setup and I don't find anything to change about it for now. I drive the car on gravel/desert foot trail and sometimes crummy parking lots that are too rough for on-road cars.

- Front: Yellow springs, Rear: Blue springs, #400 oil all around, 3-hole piston as included with the shocks. Shock bottoms must be attached to the lower hole in the arms but that is because I use stock shock towers. With your custom setup that might not be required. In any case, that exposes the shock bottoms a little bit more but I have not had any issues so far.

- Ride height: 13mm. To get that without running out of thread on the shocks I used a 3mm spacer on the outside, between the shock bottom and the spring retainer.

- Droop 19mm (in my opinion it is important to have a healthy amount of droop rather than maximizing the ride height with close to zero droop like you sometime see on youtube :rolleyes:). Currently the front and rear have the same amount of droop and it works fine this way. To get these values you need to trim a lot of little limiting tabs on various parts of the car as you probably know ;) To set the droop precisely I use internal spacers inside the shocks to get to the right shock length; I round off the amount of shimming to the lowest 0.5mm then screw/unscrew the shock bottoms to get to the exact value. More importantly I do that to get the left and right shocks to be exactly the same length. I am sorry I do not remember the exact amount of internal shimming and I am sort of reluctant to open and rebuild the shocks tonight just to verify :D To get 19mm I needed the shocks to measure 59.5mm eye to eye which is 66.5mm overall length. This value will change depending on the shock towers you are using (and you designed your own so it will be very different).

Hope this helps.

 

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On second though I just saw the large amount of lead you installed on the chassis protector on your picture! If you really added a lot of weight then you might not need soft springs. The information above is really for a normal/non-ballasted build.

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@Pylon80 Very clear and understandable. Thank you very much for the detailed answer. I got much more than I expected. Regarding lowering - I agree 100% (it means how much the car lowers on the shock absorbers under its own weight, right?), I use the additional weight so that the car's shock absorbers work correctly. I will remove most of the excess ballast from it as soon as I change the shock absorbers. As practice has shown, excess weight has a negative effect on the wheels - in turns, the tires do not hold the weight and bend. At the same time, the disks begin to hit the surface periodically. Which leads to their damage. The car must be balanced

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That's right, ride height of how high the car is when just stand there. Droop is how high you have to lift it for the wheels to leave the ground.

Some folks have been adding weight like you, to make the car roll around the corners and generally handle more realistically. But you would have to use the foam inserts inside the tires to do that I would think. They do not come with the rally kits normally.

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