Renault 5 Turbo - Bumper

[Golden 122]

Grateful for some advice (as usual!).

I’m trying to paint the bumper for the above, and am struggling with the best approach to getting crisp lines for the inner yellow portion (per photos below….). The first time round I painted it all white, then masked the outer white bumper and brush painted the yellow. But the paint ran under the masking…. Total disaster. 
 

I think I might stand a better chance if I mask again - but this time very lightly spray paint the yellow, so hopefully it’s not so wet that it runs under the masking?

Perhaps I should have painted the yellow in first,  and masked over it to paint the white??

This car is becoming a bit of a nemesis for me!

[Golden 122]

Box art…

[Golden 122]

Said bumper. Stripped after disaster and resprayed white so far….

[Golden 122]

And the car so far….

[Golden 122]

[Golden 122]

I think-it’s clear. But just in case. This is the bit that needs to be yellow!

[alvinlwh 3202]

For something this big (1:10 scale) I will just brush paint it with a 0 brush, but then I am very steady with hand painting. If you are not, read on. 

For static modellers using masking tape, we really do not just slap it on and away we go. The correct way is to tape beyond the edge, press it down real good, then cut. The edge of the tape is subjected to wear and abuse so it is actually not that sharp and crisp, and it also do not stick that well while a cut will be through the protected inner edges. 

Now, there is another method, lay down the tape on a cutting mat, cut out strips using a straight edge, then apply. The edges of the original tape is not used. 

One problem with can spraying is the pressure is somewhat too high for masking tape and can force the paint under the tape. Which is why for my next body, I am going to decant the paint and airbrush it on. 

Anyway, in your case, if you wish to mask and hand brush it on, my tip is to apply lightly, meaning do not heavily load your paint brush, dip your brush in the jar, wipe it on the edge until quite dry, then apply at a 90 degree angle away from the tape, never along the tape and try not to apply towards the tape. So the way is, brush on tape, draw inwards, stop before you reach the opposite tape. Do at least 2 of these dry coats before doing the heavy coat. This will (hopefully) seal the edge correctly and stop paint from seeping under. 

Hope the above makes sense. 

[Superluminal 3030]

You've widened the rear track width....looks really good!

 

[Golden 122]

That’s really helpful - thanks for your time on the detailed response. I definitely thinned the paint too much and used retarder to avoid brush lines when I first painted it. It worked well to avoid brush lines, but then ran under the tape. Dryer coats to seal the tape makes sense. As does creating new/cleaner edges to the masking tape by cutting it into new sections. I’ll give it a go. 

But to clarify - It’s 1/12 scale. So waaaaaaaaaay trickier than 1/10th 😉

Thanks again. 

[Golden 122]

12 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

You've widened the rear track width....looks really good!

 

Yep - and thanks! After initially building it I thought it looked awful! I was looking at wider after-market aluminium hubs, and then stumbled across a you tube video of someone who’d used the wider rear arms - and I had a spare set from my Dynahead…. Wheels are fractionally too far forwards, but depends on the height, which I might play around with after eventually sorting the bumper. But a definite improvement to widen the rear track!

 

[alvinlwh 3202]

12 hours ago, Golden said:

But to clarify - It’s 1/12 scale. So waaaaaaaaaay trickier than 1/10th 

It is nothing, try 1/24, 35, 48... 😏

[Golden 122]

Quick update. After taking alvinlwh’s advice - and basically manning the **** up…. And taking some brave pills. And a lot of sanding with super fine grit to remove mistakes…. have achieved this (masking was impossible due to the curves and recesses etc…):

[Golden 122]

Now to finish the decals…

[alvinlwh 3202]

@Golden you have done well. The thing about Tamiya hard plastic (same as their static kits) is that they are quite well designed for hand painting. There is a margin/edge/whatever that helps you to keep the paint within the place it is supposed to go. You just need careful observation of the part to see which paint goes down first.

Once again, well done! 

[Golden 122]

Thank you - not entirely sure it deserved the full week’s effort(!) - but once I started I couldn’t stop. I hate painting - especially drivers - as they need to be as perfect as I can get them - takes hours and you hardly see them!

[alvinlwh 3202]

42 minutes ago, Golden said:

I hate painting - especially drivers

Again, 1:10/12 is easy, 1:24/35/72 are the tricky ones. One trick about painting drivers, paint markers. 😉

[Golden 122]

9 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Again, 1:10/12 is easy, 1:24/35/72 are the tricky ones. One trick about painting drivers, paint markers. 😉

I disagree. The bigger the scale, then the longer the duration of painting - and hence the larger the scope for caffeine induced shakey hands to mess it up!

[alvinlwh 3202]

1 hour ago, Golden said:

I disagree. The bigger the scale, then the longer the duration of painting - and hence the larger the scope for caffeine induced shakey hands to mess it up!

That is why I cut down on my caffeine intake and hardly drink alcohol at all! 

[berman 5177]

You did a nice job of that.

I googled pics of the Turbo 5, and went with the smaller yellow insert, much easier to paint and not as invasive.

[Golden 122]

Thanks - still not made the time to finish it off yet!
 

Love the Alipne btw. I have a new release jaegermeister - but kind of want a blue one!

[Golden 122]

Forgot to update. Ta-da….

 

 

[Golden 122]

[Golden 122]

[Golden 122]

[Golden 122]