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Cuiken

Silver can budget rally build off

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

My TA-02 comes with a TBLE which BEC will be underpowered to power the servo (2.5A, so I swapped it with a 1060 that was unused from a Frog kit (with I used another TBLE). I am sure that's OK? 

Sounds great :) 

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Im quite glad to here that - i bought a tube of it and some mesh to have a go at it. Have you had any issues with the glue reacting with the paint? It smells nice and solventy

The smell is wonderous.

If you've not done it before, here are my tips:

1. Use properly sticky tape. I bought a roll of this pink stuff on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283299901787?hash=item41f5fd715b:g:DxcAAOSwGpBeChJc&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4PenTZXAvOUMYrYGmEbp4u6dUE6KyEyvZ6mGowwzOeOxuzY9VfSaPBmPsINozV0yt0g0ksO%2BKDPtmnJla%2BtunoKktAJWt4M4K%2BxzYHdQYwLd51kdmD3k9tySf%2BahR3prqcvskDyEAUM2VChdLalhqG1BJyotxKRnZbgWfxdxERjnn2C2hXgWM9%2BZJrx%2F3YwwGRoDxFWPicDSloKGq4vLLR24qpka%2BMKBDjtZ8PZ8BgDx34LV4Ss9c7G%2F0sdSGlqZbUCm8Zsk9jFg3jHiYBj1PIQEeFHnnD2EeCDjbLIFwME6|tkp%3ABFBM1Mriou1g

2. Use a fan heater or hair dryer! The stuff takes hours to set at room temp and seconds with a bit of applied heat. This is the key to not melting the paint and something I only figured out recently (after melting paint on my Lancia shell). If you get it to set quickly, it doesn't hurt the paint. Don't stick the shell right up against the heater though, maybe one/two feet away so you don't melt the plastic of the shell itself.

My process is this:

  • Fully tape the shell. Don't be tempted to double up on layers. You don't need to and it makes the tape far more prone to lifting when you apply the goo. A small overlap between lines of tape is all you need.
  • Apply the goo directly from the tube onto a small area of the shell. and smear it out with one hand while holding the shell with your other. Sounds obvious but don't swap hands (otherwise you get goo on the outside of the shell). You need a clean and and a working hand. I tend to do one section about the area of one wing or one bumper at a time. I don't generaly bother with the roof.
  • Once you've done one section. hold it in front of the heater (at a sensible distance) for 30 seconds or so. The glue will nicely spread out as it warms and then go tacky. One tacky, you're golden, the tpe will no longer lift. Before I figure out the heat trick I'd be going back every 20 minutes for a couple of hours to push down any tape that had lifted.
  • Move on to next section and repeat.

I've done three shells like this now and I'm able to do the whole job in about 30 minutes and have had great results with no damage to the paint. Takes about half a tube of goo per 1/10th rally shell.

Hope that is useful.

 

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Great stuff - have just ordered the roll tape you linked to. Do you use a paint brush to spread the glue around?

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1 minute ago, Superluminal said:

Great stuff - have just ordered the roll tape you linked to. Do you use a paint brush to spread the glue around?

Just my hands. The goo is very viscous. A brush wouldn't be able to spread it out. You really need to push it through the tape. A spatula would theoretically work but using your thumb is far easier.

I should (and we should all) be using gloves but I must admit that I don't.

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4 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

Great stuff - have just ordered the roll tape you linked to. Do you use a paint brush to spread the glue around?

Ice-cream stick will work better and cheaper. 

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1 minute ago, Cuiken said:

I should (and we should all) be using gloves but I must admit that I don't.

Nor me! I don't use a mask (usually) when I spray paint and get all kind of color snot! 🙄

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Here's the shell from my TA03 to give some idea. You'll notice I did double up the tape around the wheel arch but this was only because there was a large split in the shell at that location.

IMxpxRq.png

 

And back on the car:

QvuFf7g.png

Not my neatest work (you can see the tape sticking out around the wheel arch) but I was rushing a bit on this one.

 

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Did some work on the body of my TA03F, recutting the entire contour and cleaning up the cutlines with some fine sandpaper. Strengthening with duct tape and adding some self adhesive padding around the body post holes. Made some small shims to put the body posts (and so the body also) a bit more forward.

 20220923_205335.jpg20220923_205341.jpg

Cut an opening and put some mesh in the front of the body right where the opening is in the bumper to get some cooling air to the motor.

20220923_205402.jpg20220923_210146.jpg20220923_205241.jpg

 

Discovered the pinion isn't the 14T standard (according to the Audi manual I downloaded) but an 18T (which isn't suited for a silver can according to the same manual)

20220923_203844.jpg20220923_204026.jpg20220923_204040.jpg

And also discovered something I've never seen before on a 540 silver can...

20220923_225107.jpg The shaft is completely round, no flat area for the grub screw.

 

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For postal racing on tarmac I might change the pinion to a smaller one and I searched the parts bin for some wheels to put the tarmac tires on. Traxxas or MST?

20220923_210303.jpg20220923_205639.jpg

20220923_210432.jpg20220923_205709.jpg

I think I like the Traxxas (= the first one) better.

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Build thread for mine started in my TA02s general one;

Will add any milestone stages or pics here too if ok as an update.

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Considering pulling the trigger with this list and get an entry into the build-off:

Tamiya 58667 TT-02 Audi Quattro 114.90
FlySky GR3E Receiver 6.62
JX DC6015 Servo 10.49
Tamiya 54249 3x32mm Turnbuckle 2.91
Tamiya 54247 3x23mm Turnbuckle 2.91
Tamiya 54247 3x18mm Turnbuckle 2.91
Tamiya 50875 5mm Ball Connector 1.59
3Racing Heatsink 3.33
Tamiya 54491 Rally Cockpit 13.31
Tamiya 22023 TT02 Chassis Cover Set 14.96
Bearings 9.99
HC Pinion 4.50
Tamiya 53156 Hard Inner Sponge Touring 2.19
3Racing High-Torque Servo Saver (3RAC-SHAMU) 2.59
Clairon Audi Quattro Stickers 15.67
Tamiya 54753 CVA Super Mini Shocks 21.88

Total: 230.74 USD

That would be just under 200 pounds (last week conversion rate) or 218.08 pounds by today's rate...

...I hope this doesn't mean I'm overbudget :(

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56 minutes ago, OoALEJOoO said:

Considering pulling the trigger with this list and get an entry into the build-off:

Tamiya 58667 TT-02 Audi Quattro 114.90
FlySky GR3E Receiver 6.62
JX DC6015 Servo 10.49
Tamiya 54249 3x32mm Turnbuckle 2.91
Tamiya 54247 3x23mm Turnbuckle 2.91
Tamiya 54247 3x18mm Turnbuckle 2.91
Tamiya 50875 5mm Ball Connector 1.59
3Racing Heatsink 3.33
Tamiya 54491 Rally Cockpit 13.31
Tamiya 22023 TT02 Chassis Cover Set 14.96
Bearings 9.99
HC Pinion 4.50
Tamiya 53156 Hard Inner Sponge Touring 2.19
3Racing High-Torque Servo Saver (3RAC-SHAMU) 2.59
Clairon Audi Quattro Stickers 15.67
Tamiya 54753 CVA Super Mini Shocks 21.88

Total: 230.74 USD

That would be just under 200 pounds (last week conversion rate) or 218.08 pounds by today's rate...

...I hope this doesn't mean I'm overbudget :(

Jump on it fast and we can ignore the exchange rate issue :) .

Just file a complaint with the chancellor.

Yours,

Bernie. 

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On 9/23/2022 at 9:57 PM, Tamiyastef said:

Did some work on the body of my TA03F, recutting the entire contour and cleaning up the cutlines with some fine sandpaper. Strengthening with duct tape and adding some self adhesive padding around the body post holes. Made some small shims to put the body posts (and so the body also) a bit more forward.

 20220923_205335.jpg20220923_205341.jpg

Cut an opening and put some mesh in the front of the body right where the opening is in the bumper to get some cooling air to the motor.

20220923_205402.jpg20220923_210146.jpg20220923_205241.jpg

 

Discovered the pinion isn't the 14T standard (according to the Audi manual I downloaded) but an 18T (which isn't suited for a silver can according to the same manual)

20220923_203844.jpg20220923_204026.jpg20220923_204040.jpg

And also discovered something I've never seen before on a 540 silver can...

20220923_225107.jpg The shaft is completely round, no flat area for the grub screw.

 

This car looks great, weird about that round shaft. Rudimentary slipper clutch :)

I couldn't quite make sense of the pinion table in the manual. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but it seemed to suggest 20T pinion is okay with a stock 540 provided you ball race the car. I ran mine with ball races and an 18T and the motor got very hot indeed. Currently running the stock 14T with a sport tuned and it runs pretty well. Nice balance of speed and torque (if still a bit hot).

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I'm running the 14T now for the small postal racing circuits. Will change back to the 18T for rallying "out in the open". The top speed with the 14T just isn't there IMO.

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2 hours ago, Cuiken said:

I couldn't quite make sense of the pinion table in the manual. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but it seemed to suggest 20T pinion is okay with a stock 540 provided you ball race the car. I ran mine with ball races and an 18T and the motor got very hot indeed. Currently running the stock 14T with a sport tuned and it runs pretty well. Nice balance of speed and torque (if still a bit hot).

It is the same with TA-02.

ym59Kmt.jpg

Stock is 74/21, yet it recommended 66/24 for the stock silver can. 

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3 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

That would be just under 200 pounds (last week conversion rate) or 218.08 pounds by today's rate...

That is quite a lot of bits you can get for ~£200 over there. BTW, other than Tamiya and Kyosho, what other brands RC kits (not RTR) are available there? 3R? MST? Xpress? 

Also need to pick up some CVAs for my MF-01X build, hope Stargek has them in stock. 

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@alvinlwh my shopping list is a combination of PlazaJapan and AsiaTees. Stargek would be almost two times the cost.

I believe there are other RC stores locally that I understand stock many brands, but not really sure. I only shop online and at Stargek just very few specific things.

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3 hours ago, Cuiken said:

Jump on it fast and we can ignore the exchange rate issue :) .

Just file a complaint with the chancellor.

Yours,

Bernie. 

Awesome, pulled the trigger. Got it with 2023's budget :) (it won't be the first time I travel in time!)

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On 9/23/2022 at 8:06 PM, Cuiken said:

QvuFf7g.png

Not my neatest work (you can see the tape sticking out around the wheel arch) but I was rushing a bit on this one.

That is my favourite Subaru of all time! Looking great.

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35 minutes ago, OoALEJOoO said:

That is my favourite Subaru of all time! Looking great.

Thanks. It's also my favourite. The shell was pretty beaten up when I got the car so I was delighted when I found I was able to salvage it. 

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1 hour ago, OoALEJOoO said:

@alvinlwh my shopping list is a combination of PlazaJapan and AsiaTees. Stargek would be almost two times the cost.

I believe there are other RC stores locally that I understand stock many brands, but not really sure. I only shop online and at Stargek just very few specific things.

Ah yes, I got a few AT and PJ orders waiting for me there too. Cost of shipping a kit here is just ridiculous. 

Researching SG RC shops is almost impossible. They don't seem to have websites or if they do, just don't list much. 

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My entry into the build-off with parts from spares added in:

  • Tamiya TT-02R (47326) - £88 at today's exchange rate (£106 with VAT)
    • Full bearing set
    • Front/rear CVA oil dampers
    • Aluminium motor mount
    • Aluminium propeller joint (54502)
    • Aluminium propeller shaft (54501)
    • Aluminium uprights (3-degree toe-in)
    • High-speed gear set (54500)
  • Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRX STi Team Arai body (see XV-01 58528) - £35 (spares)
  • Silver can - £5 (spares)
  • TBLE-02S ESC - £10 (spares)
  • Wheels, foams and rally block tires - £15 (spares)
  • SPT 4412LV servo - £13
  • Kimbrough servo saver - £5 (spares)
  • Tamiya TT-02 chassis plate - £5
  • Tamiya PS-1 White - £5

Receiver and battery swapped in/out from other models.

Total: £199 (£129 after spares) and with any luck actually only £111 spent. Seems pretty good value for a lot of brand new kit and a resulting new car (and I am very pleased to be putting spare kit to a good use).

 

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15 hours ago, wilysloth said:

My entry into the build-off with parts from spares added in:

  • Tamiya TT-02R (47326) - £88 at today's exchange rate (£106 with VAT)
    • Full bearing set
    • Front/rear CVA oil dampers
    • Aluminium motor mount
    • Aluminium propeller joint (54502)
    • Aluminium propeller shaft (54501)
    • Aluminium uprights (3-degree toe-in)
    • High-speed gear set (54500)
  • Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRX STi Team Arai body (see XV-01 58528) - £35 (spares)
  • Silver can - £5 (spares)
  • TBLE-02S ESC - £10 (spares)
  • Wheels, foams and rally block tires - £15 (spares)
  • SPT 4412LV servo - £13
  • Kimbrough servo saver - £5 (spares)
  • Tamiya TT-02 chassis plate - £5
  • Tamiya PS-1 White - £5

Receiver and battery swapped in/out from other models.

Total: £199 (£129 after spares) and with any luck actually only £111 spent. Seems pretty good value for a lot of brand new kit and a resulting new car (and I am very pleased to be putting spare kit to a good use).

 

Great effort! Part of the appeal to me was putting spares to good use.

Post a pic when you're done!

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