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Cuiken

Silver can budget rally build off

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2 hours ago, Juhunio said:

So my TA03F-R(ally) is rebuilt!

As detailed in my TA03 build / projects thread, I've left out the torque splitter for now and built the diffs to manual-spec, fairly loose with just some ceramic grease. 

I want to be able to access the front diff as easily as possible so I can tighten it up with AW grease if it needs more traction, so I replaced the front 38mm screw pins with some 41mm shafts from the spares pots so the diff cover can be removed without having to take the whole front end off the chassis

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The increased ride height worked out really well, here's a comparison with my TA03F-Pro DJ 

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And here she is, ready to go!

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Ha! Just noticed that the bokeh effect in that photo has erased the body posts...

Congrats @Juhunio My favorite body as you know 😍

What surface will you run it on? I am at the decal stage on a brand new '99 body and I'm really thinking I'll have to be careful not to damage it too fast 😅

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11 hours ago, Aerobert said:

Such a beauty. Hopefully it will not be harmed in hard rally stages.

Thank you! I’m currently thinking about where I can find a wide, open space with a loose surface and no kerbs, to maximise rally fun and minimise crash-risks!

@Pylon80 yes, I remember that discussion! This one came ready made, and was bought specifically for this challenge, so I’m not going to worry too much about the shell getting a bit knocked about. I have a new unpainted body set which can be kept in perfect condition 👍

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9 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

I guess you're expecting to get hit from behind with that extra bumper!

The rear bumper is mostly to keep the body a bit tighter & snug against the chassis and avoid too much rattling. Best not to give the drivers too much motion sickness :)

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2 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

Fantastic, stunning work! That Subaru shell is really good looking.

Thanks man! The shell came ready painted so I can’t take too much credit for that, but agree it is a great looking body, Tamiya’s best Impreza in my opinion (and I know that @Pylon80 agrees 😁)

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Drilled all necessary holes into the BRZ body and made a mock up of the mirrors, wipers, antenna and rear wing. The wing is from a 2008 WRC and fits quite well. Not perfect but good enough considering that it's from a totally different car.  I will also mount the roof scoop of the 2008 WRC. Looks already like a rally car.IMG20221023082300_AHR0Rsyy1O.thumb.jpeg.7101ba7637f86dade72e089e1fb7f6ab.jpeg

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Minor budget cap infraction

Dear Bernie,

I closely studied the budget cap restrictions, including "raiding your own parts bin" and have put together the following (including shipping):

    TT02 Type-S                                             £132.05
    51289 Impreza Monte Carlo WRC 07                        £ 31.85
    54502 TT02 Aluminum Propeller Joint                     £  7.95
    54501 TT02 Aluminum Propeller Shaft                     £  7.43
    51022 Medium Narrow 10-Spoke Wheels + FastTrax tyres    £ 15.57
                                                            -------
                                                    Total   £194.85

Per the parts-bin clause, I had fully intended to reuse the following items I currently had in other vehicles, but in the end decided it was functionally equivalent to purchase like-for-like replacements directly for this build.

    Absima R4WP-micro         £14.99
    TowerPro SG-5010 servo    £ 6.95*
    Carson Dragster ESC       £19.95

      * I don't actually own another of these servo, but the specs looked similar to my old Futaba S148s. It's real slow and will be replaced at the conclusion of the current season.

Seeing as the Monte Carlo WRC comes with light buckets and I'd installed a 4-channel receiver, it seemed absurd not to go overboard with full lights.

    GT Power Light System    £28.74

My expectation is that such electronics fall outside the scope of the cost budget and futhermore incur a weight and power penalty. Please consider this sufficient to mitigate any budget concerns outlined above.

Yours with a cash-stuffed envelope,

naturbo2000

y4m9VE0-shAYDRz5KT6gR750cN03Ig0IskHyoCvZ

y4mrjrvJlyPH7gkzVmeFqPekz_m_hqdu_Tm1QCNr

Rally-spec decals to be added in due course.

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9 hours ago, Aerobert said:

Drilled all necessary holes into the BRZ body and made a mock up of the mirrors, wipers, antenna and rear wing. The wing is from a 2008 WRC and fits quite well. Not perfect but good enough considering that it's from a totally different car.  I will also mount the roof scoop of the 2008 WRC. Looks already like a rally car.IMG20221023082300_AHR0Rsyy1O.thumb.jpeg.7101ba7637f86dade72e089e1fb7f6ab.jpeg

Looking good sir! Being a BRZ I think it's begging for a RWD conversion 😉

I was thinking of your wide drive shaft search. What width wheel hex's do you think you might need? 6mm fit with the kit nuts. 7mm fit with low profile flanged nuts like the drone guys are using to secure their props. And 8mm will fit a standard slim nut. Just secure it with loctite. I suppose you won't be racing so it shouldn't be a problem to have to wait 30min or so for the loctite to work it's magic whenever you install or rotate wheels. I have done that on my M-05. I wanted to go wide but still retain the double cardan joints which of course do not come in wide size.

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1 hour ago, Pylon80 said:

Looking good sir! Being a BRZ I think it's begging for a RWD conversion 😉

I was thinking of your wide drive shaft search. What width wheel hex's do you think you might need? 6mm fit with the kit nuts. 7mm fit with low profile flanged nuts like the drone guys are using to secure their props. And 8mm will fit a standard slim nut. Just secure it with loctite. I suppose you won't be racing so it shouldn't be a problem to have to wait 30min or so for the loctite to work it's magic whenever you install or rotate wheels. I have done that on my M-05. I wanted to go wide but still retain the double cardan joints which of course do not come in wide size.

Thank you. You're right, no racing just casual bashing now and then, if something like this exists.:)

I tested with the wide hey adapters included in the kit, I think they are 9 mm wide and they are just wide enough. But then there is maybe just a half thread turn left. I've ordered MST wheels with wide offset and will then see how to proceed. 

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Just placed an order for a Suzuki MF-01X with FH, £117 after TC discount and deleting the ESC. Intended to get one while out in Singapore but shockingly, the main dealer did not have a single MF-01X in stock! 

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Settled down after my travels, time to get started on this build off. 

 

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I love how this thread has spawned a genre of budget racers, complete with Bernie fan fiction.

I wonder if I can make a 1/14 rally car with tamiya parts.... 

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On 9/20/2022 at 7:57 AM, Cuiken said:

Did a bit of messing around last night and found that using just the V1 spacers left the dog bones on my car looking perilously close to popping out at full droop.

In the end I've opted for V1 spacer plus a silicone o-ring. The car actually sits pretty high now but the dog bones appear secure. It might actually be too high so I'll maybe revert to using the V3 spacer at some point. Not yet tried it out but I'll report back on how it handles.

 

On 9/16/2022 at 11:39 PM, TurnipJF said:

I'll need to double check my build photos to be certain, but I seem to remember using just the V1 spacers inside the shocks. 

Guys, building my shocks next and want to double check. V1 is not a spacer but the eye (on the rere perhaps?). Should I be leaving out V3 and leaving in V11? 

EMRGJ6g.jpg

Also, I believe I had seen some mention of using a longer eye? Is that in combination of leaving (whichever or both) spacer out or just use longer eye and leaving both spacers in? 

Cheers! 

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I used the short eye and no spacers. This is how the original TA02 rally spec Celica and Escort instructions said to build them. Provides more than ample ground clearance.

 

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@TurnipJF and other fellow TA02 builders, I put the body (stock pre-drilled holes) on for the first time today with the rally tyres and it is a little too far back. How do you resolve this?

pqSMZnv.jpg

It is easy to shift the front body post forwards but the rear one might be tricky (too late to take a serious look at it, bedtime). Or just widen the wheel arches? 

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

@TurnipJF and other fellow TA02 builders, I put the body (stock pre-drilled holes) on for the first time today with the rally tyres and it is a little too far back. How do you resolve this?

pqSMZnv.jpg

It is easy to shift the front body post forwards but the rear one might be tricky (too late to take a serious look at it, bedtime). Or just widen the wheel arches? 

The rally block tyres are a little larger in diameter than the on-road tyres for which the arches are sized, so widening the arches is often necessary. It shouldn't take much trimming to get it sitting right. 

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On 10/21/2022 at 12:36 AM, Juhunio said:

So my TA03F-R(ally) is rebuilt!

As detailed in my TA03 build / projects thread, I've left out the torque splitter for now and built the diffs to manual-spec, fairly loose with just some ceramic grease. 

I want to be able to access the front diff as easily as possible so I can tighten it up with AW grease if it needs more traction, so I replaced the front 38mm screw pins with some 41mm shafts from the spares pots so the diff cover can be removed without having to take the whole front end off the chassis

spacer.png

spacer.png

The increased ride height worked out really well, here's a comparison with my TA03F-Pro DJ 

spacer.png

And here she is, ready to go!

spacer.png

spacer.png

Ha! Just noticed that the bokeh effect in that photo has erased the body posts...

Very nice, I have one of these in good running condition, body in awful condition before I bought it. it was not great at first, built with bushes in it, grease was dry, it ran badly. Complete clean and re-build, with bearings and drift tires, makes a fun drifter.

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23 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

The rally block tyres are a little larger in diameter than the on-road tyres for which the arches are sized, so widening the arches is often necessary. It shouldn't take much trimming to get it sitting right. 

Ended up I still have to shift the body mount forwards. In the first photo, the pre-drilled and/or pre-cut arches is about 5mm too far back, even with standard tyres. Cutting 5mm (or more) of the front will cause quite a substantial change. So what I did was insert 5mm of spacers to the front mount posts to suspension arm joint and chop off the square blocks and holes for the rear posts and mount. 

TQvKMwE.jpg

This resulted in the rear being about 1mm to forward while the front is mostly centered, only requiring about 1mm to be taken off both sides. 

So here it is, my completed entry for this build off. 

lfOsvCf.jpg

Yet to be run as I will be transferring it to my new Flysky GT5 TX instead of the Absima CR3P and the RX has not arrived. 

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On 9/14/2022 at 1:53 AM, alvinlwh said:

After 5 pages of discussions, I do not see a MF-01X mentioned? Is that one not a good entry? Or does it cost too much to bring it up to specs? If it is similar to my M-05Ra, I had to spend close to £100 to bring it up to "acceptable" standards. CVAs, CVDs, bearings, pinions, steering comes to over £70 IIRC (if bought in the UK). That will probably blow the budget completely? 

MF01x could be a good option. I'm not sure if the scale works well for most bodies as they are around 20 mm narrower.

The escort is  a nice model. Although for my money I'd buy the beetle, sell off the body and tires then get TL01 arms to widen and add a 1/10 rally body. Just bearings, CVAs and 20T pinions needed IMO, although you may hit the price cap. I think the MF01X is a great runner. With longer arms the suspension softens nicely and clearance is increased further.

I've got no current interest in 1/10 scale, but that would be my choice.

 

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1 hour ago, Nikko85 said:

although you may hit the price cap

My current cost projection is totalling £210, I will post the actual total once I got everything on hand. 

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46 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

My current cost projection is totalling £210, I will post the actual total once I got everything on hand. 

Just do a Red Bull and we can knock 5% off development time next year. :D

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Finished my budget rally car this evening. I present to you: The Subaru BRZ WRC ;)

IMG20221116205530_mpSfZVno5l.thumb.jpeg.6c2e4e9fe4e2e2ba531179b09d608963.jpeg

And to proof this car is a budget rally car here's the bill:

Kit €74,90

Tires and inserts €28,70

Body €30,90

WRC Wing €9,39

Wheels (2 Sets) €16,86

High Speed Gear Set €9,99

Decals €11,99

Wheel Hex Adapter €5,70

Chassis protection €13,89

From the parts stash came the ESC, ball connectors, servo, ball bearings and paint.  As the servo and ball bearings are new, so I bill them with €6,00 respectively €13,81. In total it is € 224,79. Out of budget, but I've sold the kit body for €30,00 and therefore the car is inside the budget with a total of €194,79.

The car is painted in PS-5, with different cans. The decal sheet is from Kyosho and was pretty cheap, but seems to be a bit older. The Killer Body body has a good detail with separate front and rear part and many attachments like mirrors, antennas and wipers. Unfortunately it is wider than Tamiya bodies, so I had to buy MST wheels with much offset. Currently the damper set up is not perfect, I was aiming for a droop set up but it seems that fully equipped the car is too heavy for the used springs. I will experiment with stiffer springs.

I have two sets of MST wheels, one set of white ones for rally block tires and the shown golden ones for on road tires. 

I will make some better pictures when weather and time allows.

 

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3 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

@Superluminal That Celica looks great! Is that a Team C body?

 

its the original 58201 Tamiy body with some MCI decals. It had originally been sprayed blue when i got it so had to strip it before painting white.

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