Silver can budget rally build off

[OoALEJOoO 1739]

49 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

its the original 58201 Tamiy body with some MCI decals. It had originally been sprayed blue when i got it so had to strip it before painting white.

Man, it looks really good. I am a sucker for rally cars. Great work, it's impossible to tell it was repainted!

I was hoping it would be Team C so that I could perhaps do a once-in-a-lifetime exception and get one (I try to steer clear from bootlegged unlicensed stuff).

[alvinlwh 3186]

The RX for the GT5 has arrived today so my first entry for this build off is finally fully completed. 

The components, no cheating here. 😁

Took it for a quick trimming run just a touch trim required. 

Comes in at a touch below £200, servo saver had been changed to a Tamiya one and RX from a Flysky for GT3 to GT5 one at the same cost. 

BUDGET SILVER CAN RALLY BUILD OFF CHALLENGE 

TA-02 Opel Calibra V6 £131.17 Amazon

High Speed Gear Set £9.17 Ebay

Bearings £13.99 Ebay

Pinion £4.99 Ebay

One-Piece Ball Thrust Bearing £3.17 PJ

51000 Servo Saver £4.21 PJ

GPM Motor Mount £10.25 AT

GPM Aluminum Servo Mount £4.79 AT

JX Servo 15Kg £10.63 AT

RX £7.03 AE

TOTAL £199.40

[alvinlwh 3186]

Took the TA-02 out for its first test drive. Not the best location and not a good video. However what I found is mounting the body one hole up on the post will help with grounding/kerbing problems. 

 

[alvinlwh 3186]

Took the TA-02 out for a proper test drive and it is terrible, or at least this Opel body is. There is far too much overhang causing it to catch on the grass, at one point it even "folded" the nose over. It seems to do gravel better but surprisingly is very nice on road. Think I may need to look for a different body to continue running this as a rally car, or some kind of bumper to help the chassis "glide cover the grass 

[whahooo 463]

On 11/26/2022 at 6:19 PM, alvinlwh said:

Not the best location

It´s one of the worst locations possible for a Testrun ^^

 

I love the chassis, i would love to see the celica rere on that chassis, but instead Tamiya gave us the TT Chassis....

[OoALEJOoO 1739]

The Celica is perhaps marginally better than the Calibra as far as it's long nose overhang. After badly scratching the front skirt quite severely on some rough terrain, I've relegated mine to tarmac rallies only on an XV-01 chassis.

 

 

[Andreas W 406]

I see now that The Rally Legends has the Sport quattro as separate body. You have to find a retailer and the budget in this case is likely to be blown, though. But that body has a perfect shaped front for this.

 

 

[alvinlwh 3186]

22 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

The Celica is perhaps marginally better than the Calibra as far as it's long nose overhang.

I got a cheap second hand body with a 'smoother' lower bumper, and that will not look too odd if it is still a problem and I have to chop the entire bumper off. Will post some photos when it arrives (thanks to postman strikes might take a while).

[Superluminal 3013]

Took mine out for a run this afternoon to church carpark thats got a bit of everything - tarmac, ice, gravel, mud. Just like a real Monte Carlo stage.

It ran for about a minute before slowing to a halt. The battery seems dead despite being fully charged this morning. Its 5000mah nimh thats never been used before although ive had it a couple of years in the pile. Do these things have a lifespan if not kept charged?

[alvinlwh 3186]

4 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Do these things have a lifespan if not kept charged?

Yes and no. 

https://www.master-instruments.com.au/pages/battery-shelf-life-storage.html

[Butler 298]

Plus the cold is brutal on battery performance. 

[alvinlwh 3186]

On 12/2/2022 at 6:20 PM, alvinlwh said:

Took the TA-02 out for a proper test drive and it is terrible, or at least this Opel body is.

The reason the Opel body is terrible for rally running is this lower lip at the front. It get itself caught and actually folded the hood over.

So I ordered a new used body from JK for £15. 

It sits much higher due to limits in the rear body posts.

But being a truck body, I think it looks ok.

Most importantly, it has a smooth front lower lip and in fact, it's high mounting allows it to clear the chassis bumper. The original plan was to cut off the body bumper of necessary, but seems to be ok now. I had to use some body post extenders from my MTX-1 to get the body level. If all works well, they will be cut down.

Moved the electronics around a bit so that they are all along the centerline but I don't think it will affect anything.

Hopefully the snow and frost will still be around on Friday when I can take it for a test drive.

[BuggyDad 1195]

34 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

The reason the Opel body is terrible for rally running is this lower lip at the front. It get itself caught and actually folded the hood over.

 

Presume you want to keep the body for road use? I mean, realistically I'd think many touring bodies would need something like this cutting off for rally? Could the chassis take foam behind to add support? 

Watching this thread with interest. I love the idea. I'm half tempted to buy a TT-02 with the aim of doing the minimum required for good rally running. Although this isn't a creative idea at all compared with many here, it sounds like such a thing would drive pretty well. So I've half an eye on what Tamico comes up with through their daily December offers. 

[alvinlwh 3186]

19 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

Presume you want to keep the body for road use? I mean, realistically I'd think many touring bodies would need something like this cutting off for rally? Could the chassis take foam behind to add support? 

Yes, maybe onto a FT S2 or a S64 chassis in the future.

I would have trimmed the bumper if not for the fact it is so complex. Where do I trim? Will it look odd with this bit missing? How will removing this affect the rest? So I just end up getting a body with a simple front end that will not look terrible if I took the bumper off, which probably will not be necessary with the new body anyway.

I have a Subaru body on a TT-01(Ra) and that one require no trimming. I also believe the foam bumper on a TT-01 helps with "gliding" the chassis over grass. I do believe that there is a TA-02 bumper available but they are rarer than a hen's tooth.

[Aerobert 1648]

12 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I would have trimmed the bumper if not for the fact it is so complex. Where do I trim? Will it look odd with this bit missing? How will removing this affect the rest?

You can see an example in the first post of page 9 of this thread. @Cuiken has use the same kit for his budget rally build.

[alvinlwh 3186]

56 minutes ago, Aerobert said:

You can see an example in the first post of page 9 of this thread. @Cuiken has use the same kit for his budget rally build.

Yes seen that and did not want to trim that way as it definitely don't look right.

Don't have the body to hand so just grabbed a picture of the real car off wiki, if the lower lip is cut off, the vertical bits at the front will be left 'hanging'. Don't really want that.

[BigGinge 33]

Hi, I’ve only just joined the forum after getting involved in @Cuiken’s silver can rally build off through a different one from the UK.
 

Ahead of this challenge I’d been thinking about building up an LC Racing PTG-2R based car for a while but thought this would be a cheaper way to scratch the rally car itch. Unfortunately for my wallet I’ve ended up starting two quite different builds so it probably hasn’t worked out any cheaper than the brushless PTG setup I was thinking about to start off with. 
 

The first build was started after I got a bit impatient waiting for anything I thought looked worthy to turn up on eBay or Facebook marketplace. I worked out that I could probably get a brand new XV-01 kit, and build it up in budget, by raiding the spares pile (mostly for bits I would sell to finance more appropriate, and cheaper, versions).
 

So far this one is sitting like this on the balance sheet (assuming my iffy accounting practices are accepted by our benevolent leader) and is waiting for some warmer weather to arrive so I can paint the shell. 

 

XV-01 Lancia Delta Kit: £218.99

Hobbywing 1080 ESC: £39.99

SPT 4412 Servo: £14.34

Tamiya PS6 Yellow Paint: £5.92

Flysky FS-BS6 receiver: from spares

2S shorty battery pack: from spares

Misc bits, connectors, screws and wire: from spares

Traxxas HV5 XL ESC: £38.00 from sale

Traxxas 2075x Servo: £30.00 from sale

Traxas Titan 21t Motor: £20.00 from sale

Total: £191.28

 

 

 

 

[alvinlwh 3186]

Another test drive on more "suitable" surface just around the garden.

 

Going to take it for a longer drive after lunch.

[BigGinge 33]

So, the second build I've started is based off an accidentally purchased TB-05 pro kit that I picked up on ebay after I'd already started on the XV-01. The kit I picked up came with a Flysky Tx/Rx combo, Savox Servo and Castle creations ESC/Motor combo (featuring some very interesting wiring) all of which have been removed and sold to make way for my own preferred parts for the build. The rest of the kit has been fully stripped down and rebuilt with a few missing screws/shims being added back in from the XV-01 parts trees or from the big box of spares.

 

At the moment the car is fully built back up and running but is also waiting on some paint for the shell. I've put a summary of where I think it is on the costing below along with some pictures I took during the build. There are a few sets of wheels/tyres included in these which turned out not to work with the narrow 2007 Imprezza shell and these have now been replaced with some 0 mm offset parts from the Tamiya kits for this shell that seem to fit better (I've not got any pictures of these yet)

• TB-05 Pro kit: £140
• Imprezza 07 Shell: £31.49
• Hobbywing 1080 ESC: £40.49
• GX Servo X25: £32.97
• Tamiya PS16: £5.94
• Taiya Soft Rally Block Tires: 2 x £3.84
• Tamiya 10 spoke wheels: £2.66
• Flysky BS6 Rx: £16.65
• Silver can motor: Kind donation
• 2S hardcase battery: from spares
• Misc fastners, shims, paint, connectors, etc: from spares
• Sale of Castle ESC and Motor: - £60
• Sale of Flysky GT2 Tx and Rx: - £20
• Sale of Savox Servo: - £10
• Total: £187.88

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[alvinlwh 3186]

 

 

[alvinlwh 3186]

Unfortunately the FS-A3 Rx is not waterproof so on my final run of the day in a big open carpark, it cuts out after 5 sec. Looks like none of the AFHDS 2A Rx are waterproof.

[BigGinge 33]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Unfortunately the FS-A3 Rx is not waterproof so on my final run of the day in a big open carpark, it cuts out after 5 sec. Looks like none of the AFHDS 2A Rx are waterproof.

I’ve had that issue with some of my BS6 receivers before. I think for my TB-05 build I’ll probably have to do something to improve its resistance to water otherwise I’m not going to get to use the car much. 
 

The two things I was thinking to try were covering it with a balloon (with the wires running through the balloon and “sealed” with some zip ties) or getting my hands on some conformal coating spray and attempting to use that to water proof it (without covering the pin headers I want to use). 

[Tamiyastef 936]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

not waterproof

I have waterproofed my Flysky receivers myself. Open the housing and cover the circuit board (not the connectors) with plastidip. And as it's the way I used to do this BITD I put them in a balloon as extra insurance 

[alvinlwh 3186]

@BigGinge I am kind of regretting getting the GT5 now. It seems like they do not have a single IPX4 Rx for the AFHDS 2A system. 

@Tamiyastef I got some "liquid insulation tape" that I am going to try, if this one comes back to life. Not not, I will seal a replacement Rx in a Rx box. Did ordered some coating but the brush on type as I am not allowed to order spray from Amazon where I am.

[BuggyDad 1195]

The spray conformal coating is easy to use. Mask off all connectors, making sure the tape is really secure, hold it by the tape, give the board a spray. I had no idea how many coats to apply so I did loads, which is probably way over the top. If you do get some on a connector I found it scraped off easily.

Next time I'll tape with something stickier than normal masking tape, I think. Once I started spraying things got a bit slidy, probably because I was holding by the tape and leaving it to dry hanging by the tape.