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Silver can budget rally build off

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1 hour ago, Sogogi said:

If i were to get tt-02, i would definately go with s type s just because of their suspension pin setup (rather than integrated plastic bar on a arms)

(shimming is another thing… though lol)

If it was outside of this budget challenge/build off, I would too.

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5 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

But for the rest of us the car is just as fun, if not more, with the stock parts .

Stock TT02 parts are much cheaper to replace, plus when you run one on off-road, the only hop-ups that are really going to make a difference are shocks, tires, and anything durability related.

I wouldn't rally a Type S though, I prefer simplicity for anything that's going off-road.

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18 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

If it was outside of this budget challenge/build off, I would too.

If the price in US is like from tamico…. 
 

 

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41 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

If it was outside of this budget challenge/build off, I would too.

Maybe not. When I was pricing up a R for the challenge, it can be doable? Base cost just below £140 (S slightly cheaper still), £80 left over to play with. Let's ignore the 3 degree suitable or not question, what else is essential*? Well, I priced up for full aluminium steering setup, servo post and front CVD, tyres, plus electronics, just within £220. I even did away with a HT servo saver but just use the solid arm that comes with the servo. But none of what I priced up are Tamiya hopups of course.

I mean what I had priced up for will not be a race ready rally car, but that is not what this challenge is really about.

*I am not sure if the R/S come with a good pinion or not.

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On 10/13/2023 at 6:36 PM, alvinlwh said:

*I am not sure if the R/S come with a good pinion or not.

The Impreza kit comes with a steel pinion and rally block tires, I'd start with that for a TT02 rally car or the Celica if going for tarmac.

$130 For the kit

$15 For 25KG servo, which is waterproof and comes with a metal servo horn.

$15 For winter bearings

$25 For oil filled shocks

$20 For chassis cover (optional but nice to have)

$2 For a waterproof receiver box

$0.00 To shim and trim as needed 

Thats roughly $200, or 164 quid

If we up the budget another $20, there's room for cheap no-name CVDs.

A cheap servo mount can be had for $7, the finish isn't perfect but it's still decent. Aluminum steering doesn't really mean much when the whole cars shaking about off-road.

Thing is, you'd really need to trim/shim a TT-02 to work off-road. It's difficult for me to put the effort into it again when I have buggies/trucks that off-road better.

 

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18 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

$25 For oil filled shocks

Tamiya CVD or not? That seems really cheap for 4 Tamiya CVD. I stay away from cheap brandless CVD now after having a bad experience with my MF-01X build. Now looking for decent replacements.

4SblOMX.jpeg

On the topic of the MF-01X, you will remember me moaning about the rear dogbones problems during the build. I found some 33mm CVDs from YR (Tamiya ones are 30mm), do you think that will solve the spitting dogbones/CVD problem?

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Tamiya CVD or not? That seems really cheap for 4 Tamiya CVD. I stay away from cheap brandless CVD now after having a bad experience with my MF-01X build. Now looking for decent replacements.

Cheap no name CVDs, you get a set of four for $20. I've been told form someone who runs them that they're okay.

Even then, the only times that I lost a dogbone with my TT02 are when I popped a suspension ball, and when I deliberately drove it full speed into a trash can (don't ask).

I wouldn't think that 33mm CVDs would fix your MF01X. How tall are the shocks on it? 50mm or 55mm?

 

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4 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Maybe not. When I was pricing up a R for the challenge, it can be doable? Base cost just below £140 (S slightly cheaper still), £80 left over to play with. Let's ignore the 3 degree suitable or not question, what else is essential*? Well, I priced up for full aluminium steering setup, servo post and front CVD, tyres, plus electronics, just within £220. I even did away with a HT servo saver but just use the solid arm that comes with the servo. But none of what I priced up are Tamiya hopups of course.

I mean what I had priced up for will not be a race ready rally car, but that is not what this challenge is really about.

*I am not sure if the R/S come with a good pinion or not.

I haven't seen a type S kit available since 2019 and they were 225$ just for the chassis, hence my comment on being over budget.

Kit plastic outdrives, dog bones and axles are the best for rallying, if you can stand the sight of them :) They do not fall off unless you hit something which happens every 5 min on an indoor track and, well, never, when driving outside.

The basic rally car kits come with two steel pinions, 17t and 19t. The 17t is just perfect.

I would not recommend the chassis cover since it's hindering motor cooling. I drill holes everywhere in the lower deck instead and nothing accumulates. The best tool to do that is a Forstner bit, 1/2" diameter.

The stock servo mount is perfect if you use the right hardware (aluminum countersunk washers from eBay look fantastic and the servo isn't going anywhere).

The stock servo saver with one drop of CA glue is now my go to for rallying.

I also use a 4$ eBay heat sink (blue 😍) but no fan since sand and grit will ruin a fan in no time. Motor stays  just warm no matter how hard you push it (I have not driven that car in the summer, I admit).

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8 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

I wouldn't think that 33mm CVDs would fix your MF01X. How tall are the shocks on it? 50mm or 55mm?

55mm is the stock/standard? I currently have 55mm on them. 

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7 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

I haven't seen a type S kit available since 2019 and they were 225$ just for the chassis, hence my comment on being over budget.

We have lots of S over here, it is the R that is a bit rare.

awnS0Rm.jpg

Ignore the eBay R on the screenshot, the price is wrong anyway. A proper retailer sells the R at £136, so a S is actually cheaper than a R here. RR and SR is practically impossible to find.

7 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

Kit plastic outdrives, dog bones and axles are the best for rallying, if you can stand the sight of them :) They do not fall off unless you hit something which happens every 5 min on an indoor track and, well, never, when driving outside.

I hear what you are saying. The stock plastic bits in my TT-01(Ra) did just fine. However, even though they are priced into the build, I rank them as a medium priority item (meaning maybe stage 2).

7 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

The stock servo saver with one drop of CA glue is now my go to for rallying.

7 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

I would not recommend the chassis cover since it's hindering motor cooling.

I never bothered with covers either on the TT-01(Ra).

O7ZMNqK.jpeg

Made a mess with the quotes, so servo saver. I had been reading about how "good" strong modern servos are so I think I will save cost by not using a saver at all, to test that out. Just the arm that comes with the servo is free. Further more, I only use budge servos like Surpass, SPT and JX, so no big deal if they got broken.

7 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

The stock servo mount is perfect if you use the right hardware (aluminum countersunk washers from eBay look fantastic and the servo isn't going anywhere).

Yes, but for just £3 for a set of GPM aluminium post, I can afford that little bit of bling. Not that expensive Tamiya block of aluminium!

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Hi Guys.

Been reading through this awesome thread and I had a look at that HPI RS4 there one place in Aus with it at a great price.

Most things here are at crazy import prices so getting in at your budget is nigh on impossible even for a TT02

So not much experience here  have an xv01 with a 240Z body- waaaaay over budget just for XV01 kit.

I have noticed though that the RS$ is a 254mm wheelbase according to HPI site hwereas  most Of my bodies are at the 257mm .

Will this work?

cheersMike from Melbourne - where hteres no RC rally 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Mikes said:

I have noticed though that the RS$ is a 254mm wheelbase according to HPI site hwereas  most Of my bodies are at the 257mm .

If you are not too fussed about 1.5mm off (1.5mm F + R = 3mm), it will not be a problem. I am not especially for a rally car which will get pretty trashed (for me) anyway.

You usually need to open up the wheel arches more anyway as rally tyres are usually 70mm. 

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It is here!

bx0hy6z.jpg

Even got a £50 wine voucher, does it mean I can take £50 off the total budget? 😁

Anyway a quick preview of what is inside.

VnXqM3U.jpg

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

It is here!

bx0hy6z.jpg

Even got a £50 wine voucher, does it mean I can take £50 off the total budget? 😁

Anyway a quick preview of what is inside.

VnXqM3U.jpg

Yep. I really like the prop shaft and diffs accessible from underneath.

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29 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

Yep. I really like the prop shaft and diffs accessible from underneath.

I don't think the diff is accessed from below. If anything, it is like the TT where the diff covers are also the attachment for the shock towers?

d2gge4V.jpg

The spur gear, however, is from below and easier to change than my TT-01.

Jk9Q0cM.jpg

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So to quickly answer question of is the RS4 rallyable?

Fresh out of box, with no droop screws, there is a slight gap before the arms hit the chassis, maybe 2 or 3mm gap, shocks being there limiting factor.

pgoN3xP.jpeg

The video I saw on YouTube had the little triangle on the right flatten to increase arms movement.

msohy6S.jpeg

Popping off one of the shock, I removed the limit of movement of the arm. Comparing with another arm with the shock still attached, I can compare them. Left is stock, right is shock removed. There is about 5mm increase.

LADeVZL.jpeg

Close up of the removed shock, there is about half a ball screw difference additional movement. I believe without changing anything, unscrewing the eye a little will achieve the same thing. I don't think there is even a need to go long eye for this.

YirGhVC.jpg

Shocks are 55mm and have a good range of movement.

kX2W5Ti.jpeg

Hope this is useful information to someone considering the RS4. I shall move on to the build thread now so not to clutter this thread up.

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tIq0Yz1.jpg

So admittedly I started building this in 2022, and painted it recently, but today I have actually put the stickers on so I’m calling DONE!

I can get a kit today and ESC for £120 (think it was £15 cheaper when I ordered), £6 for a flysky receiver, £15 for RC bearings, £7 for an ebay anodised link set, and the CVA’s springs and blue 5mm ballends came from Plaza last year at about £30, I will allow £10 for shipping from Plaza, and the servo was £10 the fixed servo saver £2. So bang on the limit - paint was obviously free 😉 I did butcher the window stickers, masked the glass inside and lightly tinted the front doors, heavy tinted the rear doors windows and the engine cooling vents, I’m happy with tint for vents I think I will use this technique in future!

The light decals are best I could mange there awful things to stick on, and also scalpeled round the Subaru stars to get rid of the clear decal section which helped immensely . Its purely a shelfer so its resting on super short front posts too, and in reality it wouldn’t have any suspension travel or steering slammed this low, but hey I like it 😁

jAtR7du.jpg

qPA8WHm.jpg

QEvSd88.jpg

Interior set is in the cupboard awaiting a quiet afternoon for painting!

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19 minutes ago, Shergar said:

tIq0Yz1.jpg
 

That body was my first touring car when I did it back in 2009 on a TT-01 chassis. It is pretty trashed now. Converted it to rally in 2021. Too difficult and cannot remember 2009 prices so never entered this into this challenge.

dRxNDrb.jpeg

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On 10/17/2023 at 9:47 AM, Mikes said:

I have noticed though that the RS$ is a 254mm wheelbase according to HPI site hwereas  most Of my bodies are at the 257mm .

An update about this question. The rear uprights  are not symmetrical, out of the box they have a front bias with a moulded in "spacer" of about 2mm (not measured) towards the rear. If you swap right and left, you should gain about 2mm, making a WB of 256mm +/- 0.5mm.

Hv5rabn.jpg

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21 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

An update about this question. The rear uprights  are not symmetrical, out of the box they have a front bias with a moulded in "spacer" of about 2mm (not measured) towards the rear. If you swap right and left, you should gain about 2mm, making a WB of 256mm +/- 0.5mm.

Hv5rabn.jpg

Thanks. I did see that the rear arms have a simlar spacer at the rear that I was thinking to cut off and add shims at the front. With both combined could easily get 257mm.

 

 

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On 10/17/2023 at 1:09 PM, alvinlwh said:

It is here!

bx0hy6z.jpg

Even got a £50 wine voucher, does it mean I can take £50 off the total budget? 😁

Anyway a quick preview of what is inside.

VnXqM3U.jpg

Unless you drank 50 quids worth of wine during the build, no. 
if you did then 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻

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46 minutes ago, Mikes said:

Thanks. I did see that the rear arms have a simlar spacer at the rear that I was thinking to cut off and add shims at the front. With both combined could easily get 257mm.

Actually had been giving this some thought, cutting that "spacer" off the hubs and using spacers to push it back maybe a better idea as there maybe some toe in build into the hub and swapping left right may give toe out at the rear.

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Actually had been giving this some thought, cutting that "spacer" off the hubs and using spacers to push it back maybe a better idea as there maybe some toe in build into the hub and swapping left right may give toe out at the rear.

I would measure it. Measure toe with hubs fitted then swap them L-R and measure again. Don't need to calculate angle, just whether it's off zero, essentially, or different pre/post swap. 

Then if its the same pre/post swap you know you can just swap them for wheelbase. 

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30 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

I would measure it. Measure toe with hubs fitted then swap them L-R and measure again. Don't need to calculate angle, just whether it's off zero, essentially, or different pre/post swap. 

Then if its the same pre/post swap you know you can just swap them for wheelbase. 

I decided to eyeball it first. It seem that there is a toe, but the angle appears to be at the lower arms.

75Ixx50.jpg

So I slapped on the wheels. Stock clearly shows a toe in.

S1RC35i.jpg

But to prove my theory that the angle is applied at the arms not hubs (the hubs do appear "square" to the MK1 eyeball), I swapped them and true enough, the toe remain the same.

62ZoFw3.jpg

So yes, the WB can be increased to closer match Tamiya 257mm closely.

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