Silver can budget rally build off

[Tamiyastef 936]

I have this good looking TA03F for my BuRP (Budget Rally Project ) but before dismanteling I wanted to do a quick check, especially to check if the non branded ESC was still in working order but also to check the steering and listen for disturbing noises...

ESC check, Steering servo works but the steering angle isn't that great I think but I'll check that again with a seriuos test drive after the first clean up. The issue I did not see comming is it's only 3WD for the moment or at least that's what it looks like.

Turning the wheels manualy one by one makes the opposite wheel turn in the other direction except when turning the front right wheel. Then the rear wheels turn in the same direction and the front left wheel doesn't turn...

Someone a suggestion or even better a solution? Could it be something with the front differential, or some drag in the left front wheel or drivetrain?

See video of my 3WD Ta03F .

https://youtu.be/_yXZv9DYyvo

[TurnipJF 7685]

27 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said:

I have this good looking TA03F for my BuRP (Budget Rally Project ) but before dismanteling I wanted to do a quick check, especially to check if the non branded ESC was still in working order but also to check the steering and listen for disturbing noises...

ESC check, Steering servo works but the steering angle isn't that great I think but I'll check that again with a seriuos test drive after the first clean up. The issue I did not see comming is it's only 3WD for the moment or at least that's what it looks like.

Turning the wheels manualy one by one makes the opposite wheel turn in the other direction except when turning the front right wheel. Then the rear wheels turn in the same direction and the front left wheel doesn't turn...

Someone a suggestion or even better a solution? Could it be something with the front differential, or some drag in the left front wheel or drivetrain?

See video of my 3WD Ta03F .

https://youtu.be/_yXZv9DYyvo

Binding in the diff typically affects both wheels on on that axle, whereas the behaviour you describe is more suggestive of binding in the left front wheel, or possibly the left diff carrier bearing.

[alvinlwh 3186]

49 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said:

See video of my 3WD Ta03F .

https://youtu.be/_yXZv9DYyvo

I had a similar problem with a M-05Ra and the way is to work your way inwards. Try swapping everything possible left and right and see if the problem switch side. Then swap each item one at a time left and right. Put in stock items if you are using any hop up parts. 

 

[GermanTA03Guy 754]

1 hour ago, Tamiyastef said:

Someone a suggestion or even better a solution? Could it be something with the front differential, or some drag in the left front wheel or drivetrain?

Im pretty sure, 99 percent, that the diff outdrive and he bevel gear have stripped, as the diff outdrive of the faulty wheel is not turning. Thats part 50602 and part 9805368 or 53218 . 

Should set you back 10 Euro in total.  

Maybe only one of the parts is damaged or its a build error in the front diff, e.g. no washer under the big bevel gear. Or a Faulty bearing. 

No big deal. 

Cheers, 

 

[GermanTA03Guy 754]

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

teering servo works but the steering angle isn't that great

Btw, you can manually remove the plastic Stops on the steering arms with a sharp knife to get more steering angle. You could also use the other (undrilled) hole on the knuckle, um i dont recommend that cos you have to drill ver exact, it weakens the part, it has the sie effect of lots more Ackermann and at some point the dogbones can fall out. 

I guess ts only about the servo at first, but if you encounter that you need more Opposite lock for drifts, Just cut away the little things on the steering arms...

[Cuiken 221]

Thanks guys! That is basically what I wanted to hear 😂

[Tamiyastef 936]

5 hours ago, Cuiken said:

Thanks guys! That is basically what I wanted to hear 😂

Yes indeed! A big thank you guys! Great advice so now I don't have to go in blind but can go and check a few things.

That really makes a big difference. 

[GermanTA03Guy 754]

Youre welcome. Please keep us updated what it was , maybe even pics thx in advance

[Tamiyastef 936]

Hi again,

I managed to work for a few minutes on the car this evening and the first thing I did was make sure the pinion didn't contact the spur anymore

That didn't made any difference, front left wheel still not moving. What else did I expect 

Before competly dismantling the front end or swapping left to right and vice versa I loosened the wheelnut on the front left wheel about a quarter to one third of a turn, with this result:

https://youtu.be/dIsY89cYxs8

 

Apparently, was what confirmed on further inspection, the wheelnut was tightened to such extent the plastic wheel hex has split or the wheelnut can be tightened to such extent because the wheel hex had split, whatever was first.

 

Me happy as a kid again. Had already nightmares about searching for some super rare, super expensive, novelty vintage part to get this sorted and all it seems to be is some craked wheel hex .

Other issue: are all tamiya belts "don't crimp" belts and are these belts still available? Is the 249J the part code and or is the 113/114 number of any significance?

 

And also does any of you guys have any idea on the brand and or model of this ESC? Maybe Carson?

[GermanTA03Guy 754]

Hey, so the wheel hex was the reason ? HOw come, had the pin fallen out ? I just ask because  even if it is split, it can not go anywhere inside the rim in my understanding, so i dont get it how that could be the reason.

oh hold on it was tightened so much that the hex was widened ? but still the pin had to be absent ? normally the hub should hold the hex in place....

but maybe not so on non-tamiya rims ? ... hmm im a bit sad i wasnt right. but hey most importantly its working and wasnt expensice (I recommend the 53056 as a replacement) ...

The belts should still be available, 50706 or 53278 (reinforced, hop up, doesnt need a tensioner, but less available). the 249j isnt relevant (to us users)..

 

cheers

 

[Tamiyastef 936]

@GermanTA03Guy Thanks for the info on the belts, I hope I can keep this one but good to have the numbers when replacement is needed.

I inspected the rim also and it seems to have a litlle crack in it also.

Normal   and here's the crack 

 

Also the crack in the hex is right at the end of the pin  and the hex show some significant wear, 

probably from rubbing against the outer ring of the knuckle arm  

the red part in the next picture is what I mean 

 

To avoid needing new rims I'm gonna try to find a tube with the right inner diameter to make some rings out of to fit over the ring inside the rim like the blue line on the next picture, only wider.

[Tamiyastef 936]

Did some more work on the budget rally car. I don't know if the guy who sold it to me was also the one who build the car originally but I'm sure he's convinced overtightening is the standard. 

These are the four hexes I found on the car  one completely different and it's the only one that's not cracked...

 

For more ground clearance, higher ride height and more suspension travel I thought it was good to rebuild the shocks. They were build per instructions with the 1 hole piston and the big spacer inside the shock. I had to use significant force on the shock plier placed on the shock body to be able to loosen the end caps. 

n I rebuild them like this  without the V3 spacer and with the 2 hole piston

 

Rear shocks got the soft red springs and the shocks on the front got the mini cva's stiffer long spring. The difference in ground clearance and suspension travel is significant and will be even more with the rally block tires fitted.

 left the original shock, the rebuild one is on the right. 

They are now filled with Tamiya Soft damper oil. They came with some silicon oil in them. Something I didn't expect because only more force than necessary but no side cutting pliers or shock pliers were used building them. 

 no side cutting plier  and  no shock plier 

I polished the shock shafts (with the needed rally block tires getting new shafts -what I would normally do- might not be possible within the budget) and hope for the best. I used some green slime on the o-rings to avoid leakages and make the dampers smooth again. One shock shaft had so much damage I could feel it passing the o-rings while moving it up and down so I took some fine sandpaper to it before polishing that one. If anyhow possible within the budget that one will get a replacement. I hope I don't run into more trouble dismanteling the driveline.  Fingers crossed. 

[Tamiyastef 936]

Tested and proven rally ready, even with the damaged piston rod(s) and without the rally block tires. ESC isn't that great because for now it has no brake function and there's a delay between changing from going backwards to going forward, not between going forward to reverse... might try to change the polarity of the motor wires as the trottle channel is reversed now. I think I might have a braking function after changing the wires to the motor.

    

[Cuiken 221]

Updates on this project.

Here's the car with a set of rally wheels/tryes added:

 

The body is quite wide so the slightly extreme offset of these wheels works well. 

I gave it a once over, added oil to the diffs (previous owner was running them with just a bit of grease) and swapped the shock ends to long eyelet ones left over from my XV01 build.

Took it out. for a drive and wow, this thing is slow 😂. I guess there's a reason we all moved over to brushless setups years ago. Couple of observations on this though:

1.  It's running at a more appropriate scale speed so the chassis actually gets a chance to work (rather than just constantly drifting across the surface as the wheels spin).

2. You can actually drive the car where you intend. It's not thrown around by the road surface.

3. Once you get used to the above and modify your driving style, it's quite good fun.

 

Further observations on the car itself.

1. I think the motor is b*ggered. Very noisy. It's a torque tuned one but when I swapped it for a standard silver can the car was quieter and faster. 

2. I think the battery is also on its last legs. I got multiple random LVCs when accelerating and it only lasts 10 minutes.

3. The shocks/springs are just too stiff. Even at low speeds, the car bounces everywhere. Nothing like the plush handling of my XV01 on stock shocks.

Regards 1 and 2 above, the seller is sending a new motor and a partial refund for the battery so no complaints there. I've ordered a 'stick' lipo that should turn up tomorrow if I'm lucky.  Hopefully that will give a longer drive time and a bit more punch. If there is still an issue, I guess it could be the HW1060 ESC but I gather they are often used for 1/10th scale rally/touring cars so I don't see it as being the issue?

 

Further to the XV01, I noticed a listing on eBay for a used TL01 car. When I checked the pictures though, it was a TA03F boxed with original instructions. I couldn't resist and got it for £70 all in.  Very excited to try it out.

[Tamiyastef 936]

18 minutes ago, Cuiken said:

Further to the XV01, I noticed a listing on eBay for a used TL01 car. When I checked the pictures though, it was a TA03F boxed with original instructions. I couldn't resist and got it for £70 all in.  Very excited to try it out.

WOW! that's a real bargain.

[Cuiken 221]

2 hours ago, Tamiyastef said:

WOW! that's a real bargain.

Let's see what actually turns up  

I'm hoping enough parts are compatible with the TA03RS (which seems to be relatively common still) that I'll be able to deal with any immediate issues.

The body is a bit tatty but might be salvagable with some mesh and shoogoo. Either way, an interesting project all in.

Immediately intrigued by the 53298 torque splitter.

[Cuiken 221]

Further update. I found I already had a 2S lipo that (just) fitted in the battery tray of the XV01 so took that out for a quick spin last night (with the stock silvercan motor and 22T pinion).

So, I have to take back my earlier comment. The car is not slow at all.  The speed issue I had previously was clearly just the tired old battery. I had great fun just sweeping the car up and down the street outside our house. I was shocked just how good a £35 brushed system can be (£15 motor, £20 ESC). The car had plenty of pace and just enough torque for light wheelspin. The suspension and steering where able to work properly with the speed so the car just looked way more scale. I am really impressed.

It has to be said that I was having pretty much as much fun as I do driving my Castle MambaX equipped XV01. Sure, that one is faster but it's just constantly hair raising. With the stock brushed system you still get a decent top speed but without the constant wheel spin and resultant sliding around.  I reckon it'll be absolutely spot on with a torque tuned motor. It's almost as if Tamiya knew what they were doing when they specced the car 🙂 

Certainly, when my bargain basement TA03 turns up I'll be giving it a good trial with a brushed setup rather than immediately shopping around for a brushless setup as I would previously have done.

[alvinlwh 3186]

My entry for this build off arrived! 

[Cuiken 221]

5 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

My entry for this build off arrived! 

It's a strong entry and no mistake. Not sure how well the shell will hold up to rallying but it'll look great doing it either way  

Whilst I'm delighted with my 'budget' XV01this whole thread has got me very curious about the early TA0X cars. As mentioned, I have a TA03F on the way (just hoping it's not a lemon) but I'm really interested in the TA02 as well. Mark Bryan has done some great videos with his that make me think it could be a superb rally car. It also has the advantage (for rallying) over the later TA0X cars that it has the shaft drive transmision (no exposed belt issues).

Let us know how this one goes.

 

 

[Tamiyastef 936]

5 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

My entry for this build off arrived! 

Great choice! Nice all those different chassis to make a rally car.

Going Boxart? Or one of these:

Or something completely different?

[alvinlwh 3186]

22 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said:

Going Boxart?

And @CuikenYes, not the kind to spend more on stickers. Although I will probably get a runner body to trash up with. 

[alvinlwh 3186]

35 minutes ago, Cuiken said:

Whilst I'm delighted with my 'budget' XV01this whole thread has got me very curious about the early TA0X cars.

I never had an interest until I saw one on Amazon going for £30+ cheaper than anywhere else. I shop with price rather than a chassis/kit in mind, and at this point "spend to save" (to beat inflation). 

[Busdriver 4675]

6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

My entry for this build off arrived! 

Snap. I couldn’t resist the current Amazon Prime offer on this. £131 inc shipping 😍 mines due on Saturday. Not a rally car build for me though!!!

[alvinlwh 3186]

3 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Snap. I couldn’t resist the current Amazon Prime offer on this. £131 inc shipping 😍 mines due on Saturday. Not a rally car build for me though!!!

And you bought that PUBG buggy from Modelsport as well! 🤣

[Busdriver 4675]

2 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

And you bought that PUBG buggy from Modelsport as well! 🤣

Have you built that yet.? I love mine it fits in a small bag along with my 18th scale Axial Maverick. I great pair of travelling cars.