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alvinlwh

PS-67?

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1 minute ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

 

unnamed (1).jpg

OMG! AN ACTUAL PHYSICAL CAN OF THAT PAINT! IT EXISTS!!!

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@Mokei Kagaku should I back it? If so with what? It is a very dark blue, I am thinking if I back it with the usual black, it may just turn black. However I am also worried that white will lighten it too much? What is your view?

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@alvinlwh how did your Wolf WR1 turn out? I am planning to build mine and deciding how to get the right tone. Going through this thread there seem to be a few options:

  • PS67 Dark Blue. Unobtainable and from the pictures shared it actually looks too blue compared to real pictures of the car, which looks virtually black.
  • PS55 Flat Clear + TS55 Dark Blue. Not sure about durability and chances of flaking off by having the TS behind PS.
  • PS38 Translucent Blue + PS5 Black. I am leaning towards this option. Will have to do some samples to get the right amount of PS38 needed.
  • PS5 Black. Perhaps not a bad option, the real car does look mostly black (on most pictures at least).
  • Mix and airbrush. Not an option for me since I don't have the equipment.

Wolf_WR1_at_Barber_01.jpg

WOLF_WR1_COSWORTH_1977_01.jpg

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@OoALEJOoO just hold your horses! 

@Mokei Kagaku's Facebook page confirmed only yesterday that a new limited PS Dark Blue is incoming - #69944

His post explains that it's unclear whether this is the same hue re-released or a different blue. Either way, both are called "PS Dark Blue"

If you can hold out a few more weeks maybe more information will come to light. 

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@OoALEJOoO here is the build thread.

I used PS-55 + TS-55, that's what Tamiya called for in the instructions for their 1:20 kit.

YQRUN3z.jpg

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4 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

@OoALEJOoO just hold your horses! 

@Mokei Kagaku's Facebook page confirmed only yesterday that a new limited PS Dark Blue is incoming - #69944

His post explains that it's unclear whether this is the same hue re-released or a different blue. Either way, both are called "PS Dark Blue"

If you can hold out a few more weeks maybe more information will come to light. 

Not much to add, but I should maybe point out that 69944 PS Dark Blue is for the blue on 58723 Fiat Abarth 131, so whether it's exactly the same hue as 89925 PS Dark Blue is something I don't know.

What I do know, however, is that TS-55 Dark Blue is the recommended colour for the blue on Tamiya's static model kits of the 1/20 + 1/12 Wolf WR1 and the 1/20 Fiat 131 Abarth Rally Olio Fiat. So, if Tamiya thinks that the same colour for the Wolf and the Fiat is good enough for the static kits, it would surprise me a lot if Tamiya should consider it necessary to have two different Dark Blue's for the RC kits of the same cars.

 

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51 minutes ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

So, if Tamiya thinks that the same colour for the Wolf and the Fiat is good enough for the static kits, it would surprise me a lot if Tamiya should consider it necessary to have two different Dark Blue's for the RC kits of the same cars.

Sometimes, Tamiya may instruct paint mixing to get a precise shade for static kits with a ratio listed. One that springs to mind is the  Ghia, which is a PITA.

9mK41Nr.jpg

Obviously they don't do it with PS.

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6 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

@alvinlwh how did your Wolf WR1 turn out? I am planning to build mine and deciding how to get the right tone. Going through this thread there seem to be a few options:

  • PS67 Dark Blue. Unobtainable and from the pictures shared it actually looks too blue compared to real pictures of the car, which looks virtually black.
  • PS55 Flat Clear + TS55 Dark Blue. Not sure about durability and chances of flaking off by having the TS behind PS.
  • PS38 Translucent Blue + PS5 Black. I am leaning towards this option. Will have to do some samples to get the right amount of PS38 needed.
  • PS5 Black. Perhaps not a bad option, the real car does look mostly black (on most pictures at least).
  • Mix and airbrush. Not an option for me since I don't have the equipment.

Wolf_WR1_at_Barber_01.jpg

WOLF_WR1_COSWORTH_1977_01.jpg

I am looking forward to see how the F104w performs in your hot lap ranking.

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Sometimes, Tamiya may instruct paint mixing to get a precise shade for static kits with a ratio listed. One that springs to mind is the  Ghia, which is a PITA.

Yes, Tamiya did that a lot around 1995-2000. At that time, I compiled a list of the mixes from the manuals: Still quite useful 

image.thumb.png.06bda0e14724bd14760ce1c8ae731e4d.png

 

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1 hour ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

Yes, Tamiya did that a lot around 1995-2000. At that time, I compiled a list of the mixes from the manuals: Still quite useful 

I am not sure to laugh or cry when I see mixes like that but one good thing is XF-85 replaces the 4 color mixture of the past.

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5 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Sometimes, Tamiya may instruct paint mixing to get a precise shade for static kits with a ratio listed. One that springs to mind is the  Ghia, which is a PITA.

Obviously they don't do it with PS.

They do, sometimes. This is for the Hyundai i20 WRC. Quite how they intend you to mix paint from PS cans I have no idea!

image.thumb.png.e1ce16e1ca4c332a9142468bf17db82f.png

image.png.8a35064950b6552cfb6861e9091aeacb.png

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1 hour ago, Truck Norris said:

They do, sometimes. This is for the Hyundai i20 WRC. Quite how they intend you to mix paint from PS cans I have no idea!

That is the first time I had seen Tamiya calling for mixing PS!

As for the "how", like this.

 

 

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21 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

As for the "how", like this...

Surely Tamiya don't expect people to paint an entire car body with decanted paint from spray cans!

Too bad they discontinued their PC paint series.

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2 hours ago, rich_f said:

Surely Tamiya don't expect people to paint an entire car body with decanted paint from spray cans!

Too bad they discontinued their PC paint series.

I am not sure if they do or not but I do it all the time now. I hardly spray directly from a spray can these days.

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8 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I am not sure if they do or not but I do it all the time now. I hardly spray directly from a spray can these days.

Interesting. Is it because you don't like the way it sprays out of tamiya cans? Or is it for mixing purposes?

Once decanted, do you respray it from an airbrush or just use a regular brush?

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4 hours ago, rich_f said:

Interesting. Is it because you don't like the way it sprays out of tamiya cans? Or is it for mixing purposes?

Once decanted, do you respray it from an airbrush or just use a regular brush?

Quite a few reasons...

1. Control - being able to control flow rate with an airbrush prevents runs. If a run develope and I stop immediately, it will usually resolve itself as it is rather light to begin with. The general advice to spray a body is to "spray with light coats", but that is really impossible with a spray can which is on and off. Pressing lightly don't really control that much. Moving the can quickly? That is still the same pressure and flow rate with a lot of waste. With an airbrush, I can control both air pressure and flow rate.

2. Going into right spaces - some, when trying to spray into tight spaces try to whack paint on, leading to uneven thickness and runs (above). With an airbrush, I can target where I want the paint to get to accurately. Furthermore, working distance for an airbrush can be almost pointblank. Try doing that with a spray can!

3. Wastage - this is more personal, it is rather difficult for me to get spray cans so I will try to get as much out of them as possible. The "spray circle" of an airbrush is smaller and more controllable than a spray can. So, for example, if I am spraying the edge of a body, less paint get wasted by overspray. I never needed more than a can of paint for a body.

OHzgA8N.jpg

Here are the leftover paint for a can after painting various bodies:

Trans pink - Frog, Orange - Jimny, Trans purple - Aero Avante, Pink - Grasshopper 2

I started using an airbrush about 20 years ago (static models) and at that time, a master modeller said to me no serious modeller will use a spray can. It was TS paint back then but I had rarely spray directly from a can since once I had seen how much better an airbrush is.

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