TRF201 Transmission Conversion for Nissan King Cab, Hilux Monster Racer, (Super) Astute & Madcap

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

Hello,

to separate the TRF201 transmission conversion and the restoration part of my Hilux Monster Racer I started this new thread regarding my TRF201 transmission conversion for the Nissan King Cab, Hilux Monster Racer and/or (Super) Astute / Madcap.
So the transmission section will not be mixed anymore with the restoration section.

Here I can also offer a better and clear support for interested customers and can answer questions regarding the gearbox, parts list, manual or assembly.

 

For pictures from the installed gearbox in a Hilux Monster Racer, please visit my build log/thread:

Sgt.Speirs‘ Nissan King Cab - TRF201 Transmission Conversion & Restoration

 

Parts list for this modification:

1x 3D printed gearbox parts from Shapeways (latest rev. 1.3):   >> King Cab TRF201 Gear Box - Complete <<

1x 54471         TA06 Steel Gear Diff. Unit Rear
1x 22031         TD4/TD2 Slipper Clutch Set
1x 53587         Shim 5x0.2mm (1 needed)
1x 13454709  Idler Shaft  (alternatively: 54344)
1x 54262         Idler Gear (alternatively: 51416)
1x 19114075  Spacer N15 (N-Parts tree)
1x 19804411  Screw 3x36mm (4 needed)
1x 13450284  Aluminum motor plate (alternatively: 54225 /13454715)
1x 50586         Washer (2 needed)
1x 19805746  Cap Screw 3x8mm (2 needed)
1x 19808013  Cap Screw 3x6mm (2 needed)
1x 19805990  Screw 3x5mm (2 needed)
1x 19004273  Gear Cover
1x 19805957  Screw 3x10mm
1x 19805763  Screw 3x10mm
1x 19805765  Screw 3x8mm
1x 53577         Urethane bushing (red)
1x 53588         Ø10 mm Shim Set (optional parts for shimmimg the gear diff)

1x 42115  Ball bearings 1510 (2 needed)
2x 42113  Ball bearings 1050 (3 needed)
1x 42113  Ball bearings 840 (1 needed)

 

Manual for the assembly:

Gearbox Assembly - Manual_Rev_1.2 (see attached file)

Gearbox Assembly - Manual_Rev_1.2.pdf

 

Pictures from the first Shapeways order:

 

The gearbox ready assembled:

And the first customer's complete gearbox package:

 

[davidsen 85]

Congratulation for great design and the perfect instructions.

is PA12 the material you recommend to get from Shapeways.

Now you have me where you want me to be ;-) , my bank account is already crying big tears. 

Will place an order for the parts soon, only thing I'm not able to find in Germany/Austria is the N-Parts tree and the Gear Cover. Should be not too complicate to design and print on an FDM Printer but would be easier with the genuine parts. Any Idea where to source those? 

many thanks

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

Hi davidsen,

thanks for you interest  

Both offered material variants - MJF plastic and SLS versatile plastic - are PA12. I have had good experience with this material so far. This material is also used by other users here for their products, such as Collin ("Dog with a Wrench - Wrenchdog") or ThunderDragonCy ("CTE RC").
And aluminum would be very expensive  

Regarding the not available N-Parts tree (spacer), I think about to add this part to the current package or to provide the dimensions to print this part as FMD part.

Regarding the gear cover (and the not available plug from the N-Parts tree), I will be offering the gear cover with plug on Shapeways soon. The design will be simular to the gear cover of the re-release Super Astute (>> see first picture of this post <<).

Best regards,
Thomas

 

[davidsen 85]

Thanks, good to know about the materials.

I'm not so familiar with Shapeways... usually I print on my own on a small Prusa but this is a special truck so it deserves good quality parts.

Ordered everything needed yesterday and will let you know how everything goes together. 

br

David

 

[Big Jon 591]

I don’t know how I missed this! I can’t find gears for my Super Astute, and have been dying to drive it. Also, the planetary diff wears way too fast, and I have tons of stuff with TA-06 diffs, so this will be a huge upgrade. 

[davidsen 85]

So I got everything together now and started to assemble. I have a really bad axial play on the diff inside the printed housing as I can move the diff 1mm left and right. The 1510 bearings are 4mm in size as they shoud be. Did you also experience this and what did you do to shim it? Or can I just ignore it? 

Many thanks! 

[ThunderDragonCy 6917]

@davidsen It is designed with some space to shim the diff so tolerances never result in it being too tight. You need some 53588 shims to sort it out, or some other 10mm shims. 

[davidsen 85]

Thanks for the quick answer. Need to look I have those around or order them if I can't find them. Maybe you can add them to the BOM in the manual?

[bavee 677]

Bit the bullet and ordered all the parts from the parts list at Tamico and rcMart and the "King Cab TRF201 Gear Box - Complete" at Shapeways. Really excited about this, but parts will take some time to arrive.

Thank you @Sgt.Speirs and @ThunderDragonCy!

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

@davidsen Sorry for my late response, I didn‘t check this thread the last weeks 
IMO 1mm axial play is too much and should be reduced by using shims.
@ThunderDragonCy mentioned the correct shims to adjust the axial play. The manual of the TRF201 shows the position of shims (BA16) for the ball diff.

In my previous built gearboxes I haven’t seen so much axial play as you described.

 

On 12/17/2022 at 9:24 PM, davidsen said:

Thanks for the quick answer. Need to look I have those around or order them if I can't find them. Maybe you can add them to the BOM in the manual?

For sure...I will add these shims as optional parts.

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

Gearbox Assembly - Manual updated in Post 1 to Rev. 1.2

[davidsen 85]

Thanks again for designing and sharing this beautiful solution.

Now my Kingcab is better than new and waiting for dry weather for a testride. 

[matisse 1486]

Thoughts on this working for the madcap?

should be fine right?

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

@davidsen: Thanks for your words and sharing your pictures. It‘s great to see this gearbox in an other King Cab. And I‘m excited about your feedback from your first testride

Do you use a Super Stock BZ motor?

@matisse: I‘m sure that this gearbox also works for the MadCap due to the Madcap and King Cab are sharing the same gearbox and my gearbox also uses the same/original mounting points.

[davidsen 85]

Yes, I have used a Super Stock BZ as this one has been arround. . 

Did not want to go brushless on this old lady but still have some power. Hope I got the gearing right but after a testride we know more. Maybe I will replace with something older or a GT Tuned but for now it should work

[bavee 677]

@Sgt.Speirs, what pinion gear would you recommend for a Monster Racer when using a silver can?

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

@bavee: In the Monster Racer manual is for the "stock motor" (silver can) a gear ratio of 1:10.87 specified/proposed.

With the table on page 9 out of the TRF201 manual, you will get a similar gear ratio of 1:10.27 with a 20T pinion gear (in combination with a 79T spur gear).

But be careful, the silver can respectively Sports Tuned motor do not fit with the blue anodized motor plate. For these motors you have to use the silver motor plate (TA-13450284).

[bavee 677]

Thank you @Sgt.Speirs! I have ordered the silver motor plate so that should be ok. Will check the slipper clutch set when I get home. I think it has a 20T pinio gear included.

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

1 hour ago, bavee said:

Will check the slipper clutch set when I get home. I think it has a 20T pinio gear included.

The slipper clutch package (TA-22031) includes no pinion gear. What you may be mean is the counter gear BA23 which is installed inside the gearbox on the slipper shaft.

[bavee 677]

Ahhh... I have a lot to learn. Thanks again.

*Puts pinion in basket...

[bavee 677]

Another question for @Sgt.Speirs or @ThunderDragonCy. For the M3 thread holes, should I best use a normal thread cutting tap (I have a hand tap set including taper, second and bottom tap) or Tamiya's thread forming tap?

Thanks in advance!

[Sgt.Speirs 1015]

@bavee: In all my Tamiya model where I have to cut threads, I used a normal thread cutting tap (the 3 piece set). But I don't use them all according to the correct order (as required for a thread in metal), I just use the middle one. In Germany is this the tap with two rings. Then the thread is pre-cut/predefined, but the screw itself is not too loose in the thread.

[ThunderDragonCy 6917]

43 minutes ago, bavee said:

Another question for @Sgt.Speirs or @ThunderDragonCy. For the M3 thread holes, should I best use a normal thread cutting tap (I have a hand tap set including taper, second and bottom tap) or Tamiya's thread forming tap?

Thanks in advance!

I have used both, and they both work, but I find the Tamiya tool is a little kinder and results in longer lasting threads.

[bavee 677]

21 minutes ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

@bavee: In all my Tamiya model where I have to cut threads, I used a normal thread cutting tap (the 3 piece set). But I don't use them all according to the correct order (as required for a thread in metal), I just use the middle one. In Germany is this the tap with two rings. Then the thread is pre-cut/predefined, but the screw itself is not too loose in the thread.

Thanks! To be precise, I was not referring to a Tamiya model but to the M3 thread holes in the gearbox parts from Shapeways.

1 minute ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I have used both, and they both work, but I find the Tamiya tool is a little kinder and results in longer lasting threads.

That totally makes sense in my opinion. With the Tamiya thread forming tool you don't remove any material, you just form a thread in the material. With a normal thread cutting tap you physically cut a thread and remove material, but with the middle one of the set you don't remove a lot of material.

So I think both should work out.

[bavee 677]

Oh, and all depends on the used drill of course. Drilling at 2.5 should be ok for a normal thread cutting tap. In metal at least... (coming form my experience as a bike mechanic in my younger years ).