Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
alvinlwh

MST MTX-1 4WD TH-1 Body

Recommended Posts

Deciding to get to the bottom of the driveshafts length question, I popped the gearbox in to the chassis to check. Looks like putting the long one in the rear and short one in the front is the right way to go. 

CiL5m2L.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bag 13 

Part 7 - Damper 

dDnzxaw.jpeg

Stage 1- Damper assembly 

ZncffTa.jpeg

Alerted by @Mad Ax build thread about the difficulties with measuring the "36mm of oil" required, I decided to measure the total depth of the chamber first.

rPVYlG1.jpeg

45mm. 

SpirmW4.jpeg

So I measured out 9mm on "something" (an Allen key here) and used a tape to mark it. This will help me measure out the air gap required at the top as these are not the usual shocks where displaced oil will be accommodated by a rubber at the top, air is required in these shocks. 

ZNxJnB7.jpeg

Also Alerted by @Mad Ax about the small amount of oil provided that will not be sufficient for 8 shocks, I decided to use Tamiya yellow shock oil instead (something most of us will have tons of).

Cennbp7.jpeg

The parts of the shocks. 

ViWHZd9.jpeg

I will put springs on all shocks first to try out but according to @Mad Ax, only one per corner is needed.

wO5Po9u.jpeg

8 shocks done, using up a big and small bottle of Tamiya yellow oil. 

g2QaIMN.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Step 1 (again?) - Attaching front damper

Step 2 - Attaching rear damper

pREBFh9.jpeg

Attached to the chassis, they do feel quite stiff. As pointed out by @ad456, I discovered another problem. The plastic balls provided for the links are very stiff, causing the suspension to not move freely. I have some spares (but not enough) balls and when installed, they freed up the movement greatly. I had now more on order and will replace them in due course. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to Stage 1 - Transmission 

Step 5 - Attaching motor

4Wb0jl0.jpeg

On advice of @ad456, I am going with sensorless, a Surpass 3100kv set I got on Ali's 1111 day sale.

CYU9pSg.jpeg

Aware that the spur will block the motor screw, I did not use thread lock when I first fitted it.

IystXfI.jpeg

Motor installed. 

On to Stage 3 - Frame rail

Step 4

FqqMhTA.jpeg

There is enough flex in the chassis to allow me to slot the transmission in, if not there will be a lot of screws removal! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bag 14 

Stage 8 - Battery Mount (what?) 

aQ9w3X6.jpeg

In this bag, is a waterproof receiver box, nothing to do with the battery. Since I am using a waterproof RX anyway, I will not need this. Also, it is huge, making it impossible to mount both it and the ESC on the front deck. 

CxP0i7D.jpeg

Still I built it up anyway. 

Also going by the instructions (under the box), I am supposed to tape the ESC to the XX chassis rails, that usually don't go too well in my experience. 🤷

4eZH1m9.jpeg

Here is how I set up mine, the RX at the front followed by the ESC. The 2S battery is for testing purposes only. @Mad Ax was right, this thing is slow! 3S definitely required! 

cj2VVNb.jpeg

3S sitting on top of the battery cage for testing. My battery will not fit and the cage will have to go for me to use 3S. @Mad Ax mentioned that it is possible to relocate the battery to the front, an option I will explore after some test drive. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bag 8, 10

Stage 9 - Wheels

Step 1 - Attaching front wheels (only front?) 

2PX0kkB.jpg

The tyres are not glued and following a tip from @ad456, I ordered some T-7000 to use instead of the usual superglue. Amazon got them to me in less than 24h. 👍

uu9Bdav.jpg

Wheels in and back from its first trimming run. Have to say my trimming by eye by adjusting the steering arms was pretty much spot on! 😁

BTW, getting hit by this thing, even on 2S, is painful! 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bag 15

Stage 10 - Body Mounts

Step 1 - Attaching body mounts 

RS7wZN9.jpeg

Last bag, the body mounts. A simple end to the build. 

5KDSoDI.jpeg

Alerted by @Mad Ax about the difficulties of getting the holes on the post lined up correctly, I grabbed something long and thin, in this case, a needle nosed vape juice bottle to help with the "aim". 

fl22sOK.jpg

The posts needed cutting down, quite a lot. The body can sit without interference from the wheels even without them. So I set the posts to the lowest possible position. 

QtlJp6J.jpeg

Body posts fitted, not the most exciting picture. 

8MRbJbQ.jpeg

Body cut out and sits just fine on the chassis. Wash, mask and spray next.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like it's taking shape now - excited to see what you're going to do with the paint :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mad Ax said:

Looks like it's taking shape now - excited to see what you're going to do with the paint :) 

Just boxart but with metallic white instead of plain white. I am still considering the cargo bed, plain black, metallic black or something else. Might do the roof and/or hood in one of my trademark fluorescent color. 

Glad that you are here. I had been meaning to ask you, do you know the gear ratio of this thing? Also, what pinion you use? Stock one? I see there is plenty of space to go much bigger, maybe even to 40T+ (bad idea I know!). 

I am testing it on 2S, and like you said, it is really slow on that. Barely lift it front wheels. Eventually I will go 3S on it though. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Off the top of my head, I don't know the gear ratio.  I'd have to go through the manual to work it out.  Then again, I never really worry too much about that anyway, I just stick a motor in and if it feels wrong, I change it.  I'm still on the stock pinion.

I was running that 4000Kv Turnigy Trackstar system, which was fine for garden bashing on 2S and really quite fast on 3S, more power than it really needs but fun if you've got a big space to avoid obstacles, hard braking and tight turns.

I recently moved that system into my SMT-10 and put a cheaper 3900Kv system in the MTX-1, but it seems to have a very conservative power delivery.  I'm sure I can turn it up if I play around with the settings but I haven't had the inclination, the weather has turned constantly wet and the late warm spell means my lawn has gone from parched plains to overgrown wilderness, but it's consistently too wet to be cut now until probably next spring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mad Ax said:

I was running that 4000Kv Turnigy Trackstar system, which was fine for garden bashing on 2S and really quite fast on 3S, more power than it really needs but fun if you've got a big space to avoid obstacles, hard braking and tight turns

I am running a 3100kv on it as most systems (ESC?) that I see specified a limit of 3000kv for 3S off road. Being still new at this brushless game, I played it safe as I do not want to blow anything. 

I do have a 10.5T on hand with a HW BL120 (spec OK for 3S offroad) coming in but was advised to use sensorless since I planned to drive the car wet. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is a really cool truck and I've enjoyed reading the build and I'm looking forward to seeing the paintwork.

My god them shocks look awfully cheap I'm sorry to say.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Body

7aOnY8G.jpeg

Masks are included. 

rPz2YSe.jpg

First coat of Absima Metallic White, 1 1/2 cans. Followed by 2/3 can of plain white backing. Followed by Mr Surfacer White 1000.

2lEXPPS.jpeg

For the bed, I wanted to try out something. First I put on Absima Silver Flake. 

95XfR9j.jpeg

Followed by fluorescent yellow. Wanted to do orange but only a tiny bit left so yellow instead. 

tZTCVPe.jpeg

Everything is backed again with Mr Surfacer White 1000. 

YXaIW5H.jpeg

Stickers are precut, in large pieces, but react well with heat to form to the body. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took it out for its first drive. 

On 2S, it is slow indeed. However, it is also rather stable in the bumpy field. 

The wheelie bar had never touched the ground but I need to reduce its brake force. 

I will make some modifications to the battery bay and try out a 3S for the next run. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...