TT-02BR Chassis Kit

[Rvl 2 14]

1 hour ago, Saito2 said:

Sorry if this has already been asked, but has Tamiya done anything about the TT02B chewing up the plastic gears in the rear or is the fix still to use the DF02 metal gears slightly shaved down?

I haven’t had any chewed up gears. Which gears , spur/pinion or diff gears?

[Saito2 5298]

42 minutes ago, Rvl 2 said:

Which gears , spur/pinion or diff gears?

Reportedly, its the rear diff ring and bevel/pinion gear (the fronts don't seem affected) that go bad when hotter motors are used.

[Rvl 2 14]

1 hour ago, Saito2 said:

Reportedly, its the rear diff ring and bevel/pinion gear (the fronts don't seem affected) that go bad when hotter motors are used.

Ok , I had the problem of bevel getting chewed up and traced it back to worn bearings. I found when using 64 spur gears the stock motor mount or even aluminum had some problems meshing with pinions. But switching to adjustable motor mounts fixed it. 
Inside the new xv02 oil diffs they added 8 shims and changed to plastic gears. I guess with the movement of 3 bearings holding in the diff and movement in the 3 piece propellor shaft combined with flexing in the chassis.  I switched one sr back to stock plastic center propellor shaft and had less movement . The new Tt02sr-x has redesigned the propellor shaft , I haven’t seen it yet.

[Jonathon Gillham 4372]

The new oil filled diff may have fixed the problem, but as far as I know its still there.

If the Tower price of USD250 is the price then this really stacks up, thats about NZD400 right now. But I don't see it being that cheap here given a Fire Dragon is NZD389 and regular TT02B is about NZD270

[Saito2 5298]

4 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

If the Tower price of USD250 is the price then this really stacks up, thats about NZD400 right now. But I don't see it being that cheap here given a Fire Dragon is NZD389 and regular TT02B is about NZD270

Here, the Fire Dragon (and Thunder Dragon) is around $200 (up from $181 earlier this year) the Thundershot is the highest at $215 and the Saint Dragon, the lowest at $175 (up from $158 earlier this year). I admit $250 for the TT02BR is a much better street price than anticipated a well below the $346 for the TD4 Super Avante (which also saw a price hike). 

[Rvl 2 14]

9 hours ago, Saito2 said:

 

[Rvl 2 14]

With the weak yen , prices for the tt02b are $60. Shipping is high but I think they recently started EMS shipping in Japan.

I saw 2 Avante kits on Sunday but they are priced at ¥66,000

[danimaldaisy 69]

On 11/22/2022 at 2:48 PM, Sogogi said:

Though Plasma Edge2 is cheaper.. which is $135 usd. Nonetheless, TT02BR looks like a much better value than I expected

I bought that model.  I had to install the aluminum dampers and dual block tires as stock just does not cut it on this buggy.  Tires give you height due to larger size and also the foam inserts (this is huge as putting stock tires and wheels back on it bottoms out EASY, dampers actually give you droop that is just not there with stock CVA's as the front are way too short. I even tried to cheat and put the springs from the aluminum dampers on the CVA's and yup-nope.

[danimaldaisy 69]

On 11/22/2022 at 6:05 AM, Sogogi said:

Towerhobbies just posted TT02 BR pre order listing for $251USD.

The only problem is that the dual block tires are sold out....in fact they showed sold out as soon as this model was released (Hmm...)

[matisse 1485]

The more i look at this the more i like it.

I understand why its being compared to the TD4 or other more race oriented buggies, but i think both are not apt comparisons for different reasons.

If your really going to race and try and win, then you’re never going to pick a Tamiya  now that the TRF line is defunct. So its not aimed at that market. Although price wose its way more affordable than most 4wd competition buggies, just saying.

As for the TD4…having built that im going to go out on a limb and say that with the new suspension geometry of the TT-02BR, there will be little to choose between them in stock form.  The layout of the TT has always been a fave of mine, very forgiving and easy to drive. The TD4 is certainly more interesting and the option of adding a Slipper is a massive bonus. But given the choice the simplicity of the TT02 is hard to beat for club level racing and general fun running.

[danimaldaisy 69]

so the manual for the kit was released on Tamiya blog

The link below is the same url tamiyablog is pointing to

https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/downloads/300058717/300058717_Anleitung-Instruction_TT-02BR.pdf

You can now see how the steering slop is completely removed in step 31 of the manual. Dangit I just received the low friction screws and the slop is still there. I have the parts in my cart for tamiya usa.

The thing I do not like about the build instructions are steps 24 and 25.  When building the dampers they have you add 1 oring as an internal spacer in the front and 3 in the rear. The thing will bounce all over the place like that

its no better than the tt02bms manual in steps 20 and 24 in the link below. keep in mind that if you built the aluminum dampers per instructions they would be exactly the same length as the ms CVA build

https://d7z22c0gz59ng.cloudfront.net/cms/japan/download/rcmanual/tt02b_MS.pdf

So there are two ways to go about this

If you are buying the tt02br (or if adding the aluminum dampers to your current kit build the aluminum dampers exactly as per instructions except with zero spacers inside the front shock and 2 in the rear. adjust the front shocks until the spring is barely snug tight in the front and adjust the rear so that when you do the drop test the arms are level. there is the misconception for some that you need as much height as possible which is not true. the arms will completely drop when in the air anyway. 

The result is that you can drop it without chassis slap but you will need dual block tires to increase the height of the buggy

For those who have an MS version with the white CVA dampers you can really improve on it though by doing the following.

 just order the spring kit part # 53927 and install the medium gold springs which are the same as the aluminum damper springs.  Install TRF 3 hole pistons in the front (the piston holes will need to be 1.4mm and if they are not they will need to be drilled out)

in the rear you will need the TRF big bore piston blanks part # 42332. You will need to drill out two holes 1.4mm in size (these pistons are 11mm pistons and perfectly fit into the rear CVA dampers) You will also need a washer to make sure there is no wobble and that part number is 9804198.

For those who have the one piece damper rod and plungers you can get the additional parts needed to convert it to a two piece.  Damper parts bag part number 9400414 and its only $1.99 at tamiya usa. You really only need the damper rods and the better o rings.  You will need clips for the damper rods and that part number is 50588

 

[OpossumRC 16]

Got my kit in the mail today, super stoked. It's going to be build as a club racer for a very casual tt-02b class.

The body was predrilled?

[danimaldaisy 69]

5 hours ago, OpossumRC said:

Got my kit in the mail today, super stoked. It's going to be build as a club racer for a very casual tt-02b class.

The body was predrilled?

Looking forward to the steering part of the build.  i dont think its going to need the blue bling steering parts.

[matisse 1485]

Very much getting drawn into pickingbone of these up, especially as the BBX turned out to be not my thing at all.

eyeing up hop ups already though….

[toyolien 3377]

34 minutes ago, matisse said:

Very much getting drawn into picking one of these up, especially as the BBX turned out to be not my thing at all.

eyeing up hop ups already though….

I'm also getting more keen on on of these. What hop ups are you eyeing up? Alu steering?

[matisse 1485]

6 hours ago, toyolien said:

I'm also getting more keen on on of these. What hop ups are you eyeing up? Alu steering?

Decided to wait as they claim to have upgraded the steering mechanism it seems.

Looking at replacing the u shaped shafts front and rear with the stainless pin holder at the front and the TT02S alloy hinge pin holder at the rear.

WR02 lightweight kingpins, VG oil diff seals, an alloy motor mount and debating whether to go for the aeration shocks over the DF03 alloy ones that come with it.

Thats for starters anyway….lol

 

[toyolien 3377]

5 hours ago, matisse said:

Decided to wait as they claim to have upgraded the steering mechanism it seems.

Looking at replacing the u shaped shafts front and rear with the stainless pin holder at the front and the TT02S alloy hinge pin holder at the rear.

WR02 lightweight kingpins, VG oil diff seals, an alloy motor mount and debating whether to go for the aeration shocks over the DF03 alloy ones that come with it.

Thats for starters anyway….lol

 

Hmmm. Nice list. Always liked the look of the Neo Scorcher body and I actually like the layout of the TT02 as a buggy. Not that I need any more builds adding to the queue....

[Elbowloh 569]

If I was to buy one, I would hope it doesn't need any other upgrades! Same for the TT02 SRX 

[Nick-W 818]

I was a little snippy about these when the price was announced but they’re definitely growing on me. Maybe… 🤔

[toyolien 3377]

1 hour ago, Elbowloh said:

If I was to buy one, I would hope it doesn't need any other upgrades! Same for the TT02 SRX 

'Need' rarely comes into upgrades...especially for me 👍

[matisse 1485]

On 2/23/2023 at 12:18 PM, toyolien said:

'Need' rarely comes into upgrades...especially for me 👍

This.

[Elbowloh 569]

So has anyone driven one yet?

 

What's it like? Compared to a TD4 or another modern buggy?

 

The thing for me is, if you shop around you can get the TD4 for £250 (Jadlam and Make It Build It). So quite a bit cheaper than this BR.

Again shopping around on ebay, you can get a Durga from ebay japan seller for £170 delivered (plus possibly vat and import charges) so say £215.  Limited then for spares and hop-ups, but i expect it might be better still than this?

I think I'd prefer the TD4 to the TT02BR, even if I had to buy a revive RC shell for another £23.

[Rb4276 720]

Did tamiya do anything about the rear gear box blowing under any strong motors? I did the mod for my tt02b years ago. Kind of pointless releasing this without a fix for that. Then again it is tamiya

[BuggyGuy 925]

6 hours ago, Elbowloh said:

So has anyone driven one yet?

 

What's it like? Compared to a TD4 or another modern buggy?

 

The thing for me is, if you shop around you can get the TD4 for £250 (Jadlam and Make It Build It). So quite a bit cheaper than this BR.

Again shopping around on ebay, you can get a Durga from ebay japan seller for £170 delivered (plus possibly vat and import charges) so say £215.  Limited then for spares and hop-ups, but i expect it might be better still than this?

I think I'd prefer the TD4 to the TT02BR, even if I had to buy a revive RC shell for another £23.

I have my own TT02B hopped up to probably beyond a BR (excluding the slightly taller BR shock towers). 

They are not an easy drive compared to modern stuff on track, the ride height is ok for indoor carpet running, but less suited to bumpy tracks. The wheelbase is quite short and that makes the car less stable and quite hard to drive (a bit like when you see Optima Mids running against modern stuff unless they have been fitted with a LWB conversion). You have to be careful as well if running on high grip tracks that you come off power when landing a jump, and not constantly nailing the throttle hard - as the lack of slipper will damage stuff over time without a bit of care.

If I was being really picky I'd also say that there's not quite enough front kickup, no easy option for caster adjustment and a host of other stuff - but ultimately it's based on an entry level platform, and the BR doesn't change that. So I'll save myself some typing.

If there's even a remote possibility you'll be racing at a club - get a TD4.

[danimaldaisy 69]

19 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

I have my own TT02B hopped up to probably beyond a BR (excluding the slightly taller BR shock towers). 

They are not an easy drive compared to modern stuff on track, the ride height is ok for indoor carpet running, but less suited to bumpy tracks. The wheelbase is quite short and that makes the car less stable and quite hard to drive (a bit like when you see Optima Mids running against modern stuff unless they have been fitted with a LWB conversion). You have to be careful as well if running on high grip tracks that you come off power when landing a jump, and not constantly nailing the throttle hard - as the lack of slipper will damage stuff over time without a bit of care.

If I was being really picky I'd also say that there's not quite enough front kickup, no easy option for caster adjustment and a host of other stuff - but ultimately it's based on an entry level platform, and the BR doesn't change that. So I'll save myself some typing.

If there's even a remote possibility you'll be racing at a club - get a TD4.

What tires do you run at the track?  I know the dual blocks give the buggy some additional height but they probably wont work on the track.

Lastly how do you have your aluminum dampers built?  the instructions call for 3 internal spacers in the front and 4 in the rear.  I did zero in the front and 2 in the rear.  Gives it a lot more droop.

Just curious.