BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 21, 2022 Would love to hear setup tips for XV-01s? I know I need much thicker diff oil in the front, but what weight? And what about the back? My shock oil is also just a starter, would love to hear what others are using? Ditto springs. (NB currently on short dampers) Oh, and solder - I just started some new "lead free" solder and I don't think it's running or adhering as well as my old stuff. I need to look into that but any recommendations great appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyastef 1961 Posted November 22, 2022 13 hours ago, BuggyDad said: Need to cut the battery cable hole a little. I didn't. I put the esc cables through one by one and then put the connector over the tabs. Enough space for a 4000Mah or even a 6000Mah battery and a Lipo alarm. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 22, 2022 6 hours ago, Tamiyastef said: I didn't. I put the esc cables through one by one and then put the connector over the tabs. Enough space for a 4000Mah or even a 6000Mah battery and a Lipo alarm. Ah thanks. My batteries are standard sized cased Lipos, so they wouldn't take a cable run like that, but they do fit in there. I have cut perhaps 1mm off the bottom of the hole only, just enough that a Deans connector can pass through with a bit of a jiggle. Battery wires shortened so that there's only as much there as can be easily pushed back into the electronics box. I've found the electronics box to be spacious enough, although I haven't stuck down the ESC yet (will velcro, because I'll need to lift it to access the sensor cable sensibly). What's the best way to route motor wires? Under or over the shock tower? Keen to see pics of cable routing generally. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyastef 1961 Posted November 22, 2022 On mine the wires are routed under the shock tower but on the right side. The rust on the yellow motor wire isn't on the connector, it's the stain a previous rusted connector left on the rubber sleeve. I'm also using a normal size servo although I've read and heard a normal size servo won't fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 22, 2022 53 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said: On mine the wires are routed under the shock tower but on the right side. Ah. Good to have another option. Thanks. Although, I suspect I'd struggle to get more than one of my heavier gauge wires through there. I could split them though. I have 4 including the sensor wire. What I suspect I'll do is shorten them a bit so my connections are further back towards the servo and then make up longer extensions, then either they all go left or I split them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyastef 1961 Posted November 22, 2022 6 minutes ago, BuggyDad said: shorten them a bit so my connections are further back towards the servo and then make up longer extensions, then either they all go left or I split them. Sounds like a plan 🙂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 22, 2022 Thought I'd better get my eye in a bit before I go anywhere near the Lancia body shell, so I've cut out and drilled my Kamtec Escort MK1 runner shell. First go at anything that's not a buggy. I think this is about right although I could drop the front mounts a hole: This lines up better with the chassis base front to back, but would need more of the front of the front wheel arches cut away. So I think I'll play it safe and keep it high, for now. I think it'd be an unusual shell that accommodated the whole front bumper of this chassis. But I might look into that. Are there any? What shells do others run and how do you get on with the bumper? You've cut a lot of it away, right? Meantime, for this runner shell, I think there's something to be said for leaving the whole bumper out in front of the shell. I had to make a cutout just to accommodate the motor housing, never mind the bumper. I'm looking forward to having a go at the Lancia shell but those decals need to be done when I can really focus on it. I think I will try to do it as designed, but I might regret it! Meantime, still got to paint the Escort shell, and it could be a few weeks before I can do that. Dog has had a good day. Practising sitting. And van driving. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 22, 2022 I'm also a bit confused as to a detail of the long damper spec version (for which I have the parts). From what I can see, it doesn't increase ground clearance (assume wheel size unchanged), just wheel travel beyond chassis bottom-out - is that right? When I fit it I suspect I'll be hunting for mods to increase ground clearance a bit (steering arms the first offender). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyastef 1961 Posted November 23, 2022 (edited) 17 hours ago, BuggyDad said: What shells do others run and how do you get on with the bumper? I'm running the Citroën Rally body from L&Lmodels and just had to trim the top of the bumper a bit. It's a good fit IMO. Edited November 23, 2022 by Tamiyastef picture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyastef 1961 Posted November 23, 2022 I build mine completely stock except for the long eyelets on the dampers. This makes for a bit more ground clearance I think, but also this left and right: No problem when you put it on its wheels, only on full droop the rod ends catch the chassis on full turns. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 23, 2022 2 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said: I build mine completely stock except for the long eyelets on the dampers. This makes for a bit more ground clearance I think, but also this left and right: No problem when you put it on its wheels, only on full droop the rod ends catch the chassis on full turns. That's what I could see on mine (if I was to extend the shocks). I hadn't thought of just letting it happen but it makes sense. I may give that a go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 23, 2022 I quite like the look of a MK1 Golf or the Corrado for shells with a longer overhang in front. https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/tc041-vw-golf-mk1-gti-lexan-1mm-257mm-x190mm-tamiya-tt01-tt02 Prefer the look of the golf but the Corrado's got a massive nose! https://www.kamtec.co.uk/p/vw-corrado-bodyshell-lexan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 23, 2022 2 hours ago, Tamiyastef said: I'm running the Citroën Rally body from L&Lmodels and just had to trim the top of the bumper a bit. It's a good fit IMO. That's before running it right? My bumper plastic is already more scratched up than that! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyastef 1961 Posted November 23, 2022 7 minutes ago, BuggyDad said: That's before running it right? Nope. That's after all this and more on a TA03F (Budget Rally build off) and a few tarmac runs on the XV-01 I did have a small crack in the lower front about 2mm maybe, right in the middle but now it's fixed with tape on the inside. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiyastef 1961 Posted November 23, 2022 (edited) You probably mean the piece of the chassis holding the urethane bumper. That's after the tarmac runs, haven't run my XV-01 off road yet. I thought you meant the body first Edited November 23, 2022 by Tamiyastef Not yet typed the hole messsage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 23, 2022 6 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said: You probably mean the piece of the chassis holding the urethane bumper. I did! 🤣 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nicadraus 6130 Posted November 24, 2022 On 11/23/2022 at 4:03 AM, BuggyDad said: What's the best way to route motor wires? Under or over the shock tower? Keen to see pics of cable routing generally. Under the shock towers. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted November 24, 2022 8 hours ago, Nicadraus said: Under the shock towers. HA! You read my mind. This is a photo I had seen before and been searching for! I thought I'd seen you use braided sleeve for all cables but I see you've actually taken your own cables clean back to the electronics box. Thinking about it, I might do the same with bullet connector joints inside the box. My joints as they are now would be quite inconvenient. Are those shocks long damper spec or short? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nicadraus 6130 Posted November 25, 2022 15 hours ago, BuggyDad said: HA! You read my mind. This is a photo I had seen before and been searching for! I thought I'd seen you use braided sleeve for all cables but I see you've actually taken your own cables clean back to the electronics box. Thinking about it, I might do the same with bullet connector joints inside the box. My joints as they are now would be quite inconvenient. Are those shocks long damper spec or short? I used the braided cables when I was still using brushed motor. But since I replaced it with brushless, I decided not to wrap the wires with braided sleeve and uses wire clamps instead to organize them. Those are 60mm extended to 65mm. I believe the long damper shocks are 80/85mm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted December 3, 2022 Has anyone widened the rear track on an XV? I have a porsche RSR body coming. A rally/Safari porsche is a thing that would put a big smile on my face if I can do a decent job of it. The widened rear of the RSR body is perhaps not really appropriate but in other respects I think this particular body shell has the best detail, and considering that plus decals I thought it also represented great value. L and L has the light cluster but there were other details that just didn't seem right. So - the combination of body shape, and the fact that a 911 does need its wheels to look right, gives me a wheel problem. I have a few options: The Tamiya RSR wheels are very "right", I think, although I read that the rears still want spacing out (but maybe not for rally?). Detail wise they are absolutely on the money. But they cost £31 just for the wheels so I'm hesitating. And for as much as they are aesthetically right, so I think can be some other designs. MST and DS adjustable offset drift wheels could be used to experiment with offset and get it just right, but I can't find any that look close to right. Then I found Rex RC's example: which uses metal small crawler wheels. These look great (I will try some bigger tyres I think) but do I want heavy metal wheels? Mine is more speedy rally runner than scale car, so I'm kinda thinking not. So I'm toying between these options, or maybe widening the track with eg a change of axles, allowing me to look more widely at different wheel options. Or, A N Other wheel I've yet to identify with the right offset. And, I don't really know how to space a wheel out - surely there's no room on the axles for significantly wider hexes? As a side note, the RSR shell and wheels if I get them would've cost me together £67. The whole kit is only £120. A missed opportunity for a low spec TT-02 chassis for £50 - CVAs, budget wheels and shell and some bearings and I'd have a touring car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7779 Posted December 3, 2022 How much wider does it need to be? On the TT01E porsche gt3 I had, the rear just had long axles and wide hexes to get the wheels out to the body. I used 11mm alloy hexes for racing it with 24mm wheels. You might need some else for 26mm rally wheels. If you are still running dogbones at the rear, you just need the 50808 tg10 long axles. I have them on my dt03 truck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted December 3, 2022 1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said: How much wider does it need to be? I don't know exactly yet - not got the shell yet. I just know that the rear wheels that go with the body on a TT-02 are wider, and I think have more offset, and I saw somewhere that folk space them out further than stick for better body alignment. I think I'd ideally keep standard width wheels for standard tyres. 1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said: If you are still running dogbones at the rear, you just need the 50808 tg10 long axles. I have them on my dt03 truck. So this could be great news actually. I think it might be my most flexible available solution. I just had seen on here reference to it not being so simple as a straight axle swap (which I now note was in reference to dogbones on a base TT-02, which may be plastic, in which case that would explain that away). Presumably, those axles require a certain minimum width of hex to take a normal wheel with them? Do you know how much longer they are than a standard axle? Thanks Cy! Good to hear from you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7779 Posted December 3, 2022 55 minutes ago, BuggyDad said: I don't know exactly yet - not got the shell yet. I just know that the rear wheels that go with the body on a TT-02 are wider, and I think have more offset, and I saw somewhere that folk space them out further than stick for better body alignment. I think I'd ideally keep standard width wheels for standard tyres. So this could be great news actually. I think it might be my most flexible available solution. I just had seen on here reference to it not being so simple as a straight axle swap (which I now note was in reference to dogbones on a base TT-02, which may be plastic, in which case that would explain that away). Presumably, those axles require a certain minimum width of hex to take a normal wheel with them? Do you know how much longer they are than a standard axle? Thanks Cy! Good to hear from you. I think they are 4-5mm wider than a stock axle. Maybe even six. I don't think you can run stock width in them, but not far off. The minimum hex width I have used on them is 8mm, but I used up to 11mm. The widest I have used on stock axles is 7mm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted December 3, 2022 29 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said: I think they are 4-5mm wider than a stock axle. Maybe even six. I don't think you can run stock width in them, but not far off. The minimum hex width I have used on them is 8mm, but I used up to 11mm. The widest I have used on stock axles is 7mm. Perfect. Ta. Think I'll order some cheap 8 and 10s and the axles. And try not to order those lovely but expensive porsche wheels, using ones I've got instead. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4244 Posted December 4, 2022 Took clean motor wires right back into the electronics box for tidiness. It is cramped in there but once you've got it covered it does leave a really tidy car. Not had 14AWG wire before - sooo much easier to route than the 12AWG that comes on the ESCs. Still missing a sensor cable but that's all. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites