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Kowalski86

Easy M-Chassis body for noob

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I managed to bug up my 2CV body, I followed the dimples and got uneven holes on the roof, cracks in the hood, it was a bit of a mess.

For my second shot I'd like to go with something more simple, something with less windows and a basic shape, while figuring out how to punch out cleaner holes.

The chassis is an M05 set in 239mm wheelbase mode if that makes any difference. Does anyone have any suggestions?

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I’d highly recommend a reamer for doing the body holes, works a dream, I picked mine up for about £7 from Amazon.

Professional and Expanding Reaming Knife Drill Tool Expanding Hole Opener Reamer Universal Metal RC Car Body Shell Hole Opener for RC Model Body https://amzn.eu/d/6lwWGEC

 

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You can probably (?) repair that body using scrap polycarbonate with fresh new holes mounted to the existing holes with crack..

And as Nwc100 mentioned above, I too use a reamer for body post holes.   I would also check out magnet body mounts for future bodies without pre-drilled holes. GL!! 

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yeah, a body reamer is so much better than a drill. much more precise and easy to make holes clean.

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As a novice, I'd echo the reamer point - makes it very straightforward to get a nice clean round hole exactly where you want it. If your issue is also about masking and paint, maybe try a shell from someone like Kamtec as well, lots to choose from and about half the cost of Tamiya. Less detailed/accurate product. 

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1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

As a novice, I'd echo the reamer point - makes it very straightforward to get a nice clean round hole exactly where you want it. If your issue is also about masking and paint, maybe try a shell from someone like Kamtec as well, lots to choose from and about half the cost of Tamiya. Less detailed/accurate product. 

I did use a reamer actually, but for the initial holes I poked a thin dental pin into them, then used a reamer to expand them.

Does Kamtec ship to the US? I might try one of their shells.

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I use a pin vice or a dremel tool, starting at 1mm and 2mm, then a power screwdriver 3mm and 4mm and finally a power drill at 5mm and 5.5/6mm.

IIRC, the 2CV body requires a lot of bits mounted to it this the mess of holes? I think the new Swift body is a simple one and is also 239mm? Old Swift was a 225mm.

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22 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

I use a pin vice or a dremel tool, starting at 1mm and 2mm, then a power screwdriver 3mm and 4mm and finally a power drill at 5mm and 5.5/6mm.

IIRC, the 2CV body requires a lot of bits mounted to it this the mess of holes? I think the new Swift body is a simple one and is also 239mm? Old Swift was a 225mm.

It's the body post holes that I messed up, I never got as far as the accessories. I've been debating on an Alpine (despite the FWD chassis) but I'll look into the Swift.

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Were you using an RC reamer or some kind of woodworking reamer?

Honestly it's quite hard to mess up body holes on a Tamiya body if you use an RC reamer, the centres are marked and an RC reamer offers a lot of accuracy.

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Which ever body you buy you'll probably have to ream the holes. Maybe try practicing reaming holes in some scrap pieces of lexan first?

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3 hours ago, sosidge said:

Were you using an RC reamer or some kind of woodworking reamer?

Honestly it's quite hard to mess up body holes on a Tamiya body if you use an RC reamer, the centres are marked and an RC reamer offers a lot of accuracy.

It was an RC reamer, maybe I twisted it around too much? I followed the dimples but somehow my roof holes weren't quite aligned.

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I have a reamer exactly like the one in the link posted above and don't like it at all, I find it much easier to get a perfect hole with a wood drill bit, but I don't use a drill I just turn it with my fingers so as not to mess things up. It takes a bit more time but I get much better results.

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1 hour ago, foz75 said:

I have a reamer exactly like the one in the link posted above and don't like it at all, I find it much easier to get a perfect hole with a wood drill bit, but I don't use a drill I just turn it with my fingers so as not to mess things up. It takes a bit more time but I get much better results.

Interestingly the instructions stated to start holes by hand turning a drill bit, then using a reamer to expand them..

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14 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

It's the body post holes that I messed up, I never got as far as the accessories. I've been debating on an Alpine (despite the FWD chassis) but I'll look into the Swift.

The Alpine won’t fit an L chassis as it’s a 210 mm wb.?it also has lots of holes!!!!!

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1 hour ago, ruebiracer said:

As you stated 239mm wheelbase, I recommend the VW Beetle body. The holes are already predrilled. ;)

That's odd, but I might go with that one. Looks like a simple design and if I get lazy I can skip the bumpers for a "Cal look".

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31 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

That's odd, but I might go with that one. Looks like a simple design and if I get lazy I can skip the bumpers for a "Cal look".

I think the beetle is a good call unless you want to keep it a fwd body. The Mugen Honda is a nice simple Fwd body. It’s either 225 or 239 I can’t remember which. Do you have the bits to change your wheelbase as that will give you more options?

Edited by Busdriver
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8 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

It was an RC reamer, maybe I twisted it around too much? I followed the dimples but somehow my roof holes weren't quite aligned.

I will confirm bodies are not always 100% symmetrical.. so what I do is start the hole with a reamer, then re-align/aim the hole by forcing the reamer against one side of the hole to straighten it just a bit and then finish the hole into a clean even circle.  

It could be that the reamer was forced into the hole a bit too quick which can damage the surrounding plastic.   There is a learning curve and when the hole is placed in a contoured area, it can be tricky.  

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1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

I think the beetle is a good call unless you want to keep it a fwd body. The Mugen Honda is a nice simple Fwd body. It’s either 225 or 239 I can’t remember which. Do you have the bits to change your wheelbase...

 The more that I drive my M05 the more that I understand why Tamiya released it with some RWD bodies, it's a bit tail happy off throttle and it will throw its back end around. I don't have a problem going with a RWD body.

If you're referring to the CRV-looking Mugen it's 225mm. I was considering that one but I dont have the parts to change the wheelbase.

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29 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

 The more that I drive my M05 the more that I understand why Tamiya released it with some RWD bodies, it's a bit tail happy off throttle and it will throw its back end around. I don't have a problem going with a RWD body.

If you're referring to the CRV-looking Mugen it's 225mm. I was considering that one but I dont have the parts to change the wheelbase.

Yes the CRX. It’s a shame you don’t have the parts. The Europa is an L chassis body but it has a very low front end. Not sure how it would work on the M05

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3 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Yes the CRX. It’s a shame you don’t have the parts. The Europa is an L chassis body but it has a very low front end. Not sure how it would work on the M05

I looked into a bit, it sounds like I don't need any other parts to change the wheelbase, just undo some screws and move them, then rotate the bottom suspension mount. I'll try that once I install some M05RA uprights I've ordered.
1/10 R/C M-05 PRO Chassis Kit (tamiya.com)
" Three wheelbase lengths are possible (210mm/225mm/239mm) by simply switching the position of parts from the rear suspension."

Looks like that Honda bodys out of stock atm.

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4 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

I looked into a bit, it sounds like I don't need any other parts to change the wheelbase, just undo some screws and move them, then rotate the bottom suspension mount. I'll try that once I install some M05RA uprights I've ordered.
1/10 R/C M-05 PRO Chassis Kit (tamiya.com)
" Three wheelbase lengths are possible (210mm/225mm/239mm) by simply switching the position of parts from the rear suspension."

Looks like that Honda bodys out of stock atm.

Try Kleinkram rc in Germany. They have 5 in stock along with loads of other M chassis bodies. As long as you keep to a single body + p&p it keeps it under any thresholds and works out about the same price as you would pay in Uk. They use courier so less postal disruption. I’ve used them several times. Sorry am making the assumption that you are in the Uk?

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Just now, Busdriver said:

Try Kleinkram rc in Germany. They have 5 in stock along with loads of other M chassis bodies. As long as you keep to a single body + p&p it keeps it under any thresholds and works out about the same price as you would pay in Uk. They use courier so less postal disruption. I’ve used them several times. Sorry am making the assumption that you are in the Uk?

I live in the US...unfortunately. Wish I lived in the UK! Seems that they have better support for Tamiyas.

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Ah not so good. I don’t think the M chassis is as popular in the US as Europe and UK 😞

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13 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Ah not so good. I don’t think the M chassis is as popular in the US as Europe and UK 😞

No surprise, the only M-chassis that I've seen in stores here is the MF-01x Rally Beetle, which is also one of the more complex M-chassis to build afaik.

I did decide on one of Tamiyas Beetle body's, I'll likely be selling my MF-01X so I could use another Bug to replace it. I'd rather not swap bodies since whoever painted my 01x used what I can only guess was hardware store paint.

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