50808 on XV-01 too short

[Andreas W]

I tried to fit the new longer axles on the XV yesterday, but with no success. The new axle is 1mm too short to fit the pin. I have messured the old vs the new axle and the distance from the backside of the drivecup to the outer end of the hole for the pin and it is 1mm shorter.  How have you solved this?  Fitted 5x10x3mm bearings instead?  The car has full YR suspension, if that makes any difference. 

[BuggyDad]

Oh that's frustrating. For me too - I've got a pair of these on the way for my XV-01. Although mine has stock suspension. 

[alvinlwh]

Some YR parts need to work with each other as a whole set. I am not familiar with this as I do not have a VX but I had seen it with some M chassis parts. 

[Andreas W]

Thanks for the reply. I feared that. I think I have to get some 3mm thick bearings and hope that the axle and hex are going clear of the hub. 

 

It's still mysterious that the OE axles from the XV are fitting but the longer are not. I have control messured a pair of Thunder Dragon axles I have and they have the same layout as the 50808 (only shorter). 

 

I see that the XV-01 has it's own partnumber, so maybe the XV is unique in this matter. 

 

XV left,  then 50808 and TD right 

[Big Jon]

The narrow bearing is the fix. I have them on my XV, and everything works perfectly.

[Andreas W]

Thanks. Are you running 1 or 2 bearings on each side? 

[BuggyDad]

Hmmm. So we need 5x11x3 bearings? 

I can only see metal shielded for sensible money, eg:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222980871017?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oMMNsPhYR26&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OXFutQZGQ-u&var=521786137885&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Or S685-2RS-W3 is the code for rubber sealed, but they're about 5x the price even if you buy 10, kinda killing the value of the track widening:

https://sbtltd.co.uk/product/s685-2rs-w3-zen/

Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I guess you'd have to fit them on the inside, otherwise hex would foul upright as the pin sets the hex position. 

[Big Jon]

On 12/17/2022 at 3:29 PM, BuggyDad said:

Hmmm. So we need 5x11x3 bearings? 

I can only see metal shielded for sensible money, eg:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222980871017?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oMMNsPhYR26&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OXFutQZGQ-u&var=521786137885&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Or S685-2RS-W3 is the code for rubber sealed, but they're about 5x the price even if you buy 10, kinda killing the value of the track widening:

https://sbtltd.co.uk/product/s685-2rs-w3-zen/

Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I guess you'd have to fit them on the inside, otherwise hex would foul upright as the pin sets the hex position. 

Yes, you fit them to the inside only. Metal shielded bearings are relatively cheap, and have held up fine with standard rally abuse, although I’d prefer rubber seals.

[Andreas W]

So I finally took the time to mount those axles today. It turned out not straight forward, but not that hard either. If you have the normal Tamiya plastic hub you may have less hassle. 

 

Even with the thin 5x10x3 bearings the axle pin was hard to enter. When I did there was endless binding. The solution was to machine the new axles to the same shape as the original. I also had to drill out the inside of the hub to fit the new bearings. 

 

On the first pic you see from top original, modified and unmodified. You see that the wider axle has a more square shape and will cause binding in at least the YR alu hub. 

 

On the second pic you can see the difference. The lhs is still original there. 

[Andreas W]

I can live with the new stance 

[BuggyDad]

9 hours ago, Andreas W said:

So I finally took the time to mount those axles today. It turned out not straight forward, but not that hard either. If you have the normal Tamiya plastic hub you may have less hassle. 

 

Even with the thin 5x10x3 bearings the axle pin was hard to enter. When I did there was endless binding. The solution was to machine the new axles to the same shape as the original. I also had to drill out the inside of the hub to fit the new bearings. 

 

On the first pic you see from top original, modified and unmodified. You see that the wider axle has a more square shape and will cause binding in at least the YR alu hub. 

 

On the second pic you can see the difference. The lhs is still original there. 

That's odd isn't it? If that part of the cup fouls the YR upright, how does the bearing clear it on its way in? Bearing has a bigger diameter than cup doesn't it?

[BuggyDad]

34 minutes ago, Andreas W said:

I can live with the new stance 

Looks nice! 

How wide a hex? 

[Andreas W]

Thanks for your reply and kind words .

 

I have not messured, but I think the cup has a slightly larger diameter. The hole in the upright is rounded (in the area where the axle goes into the bearings),  so when you put in the more square shaft it binds. 

 

Either way it now fits and I am happy. 

 

The hexes are 9 mm (because that was what the norwegian webshop had in stock).