Jump to content
Rally!

Uh oh...Can anybody help?

Recommended Posts

Hi, guys...

Was wondering if anyone has had this happen to them before. 

I was installing the TT-01 Turnbuckle tie rod set (53662) on to my TT-02. Everything was fine until I went to screw in the 5x9 mm ball connector. They both snapped on me, as you can see in the photo. The brass ones went in fine.

I don't think I over-tighten them as I'm usually worried about the plastic. Has anyone had this happen? What did I do wrong? 

Also, the thread is now lodged in both uprights which means I'll have to probably buy new parts tree for them. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm a bit bummed out by this.

IMG_2099.thumb.jpeg.00d40ef1f354d81fa4c77e23b7a1d641.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah no mate😕 Can't imagine you could've done anything wrong here, must be weak metal which broke as it tried to cut a thread into the plastic. Did they snap as the thread was cutting or when you were giving them a final nip up tight?

Is there any of the bolt threaded shaft sticking up out of the plastic of the uprights or is it below the surface of the hole?

If you go for this again, it sounds like tapping the holes with a 3mm tap to put a thread in them will be the best route.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Kol__

They both snapped in the final nip up. 

There was a bit sticking out the bottom, but not enough to get to it. 

Luckily, The parts tree I need is available near me and it's only $10 CDN.

I just don't know wether to even try this again, or revert back to stock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah I see mate. Possibly the metal was stressed as it created the thread in the plastic and then it didn't take much to snap it off once tightening up.

Nah you'll be fine buddy, you could pick up the new parts and a tap set like the one linked below and just gently nip them up lightly once the hole has been threaded by the 3mm tap👍

Adjustable Silver T-Handle Ratchet Tap Holder Wrench with 5pcs M3-M8 3mm-8mm Machine Screw Thread Metric Plug T-Shaped Tap

https://amzn.eu/d/eu1bhI1

A helicoil kit can also be quite a good option for plastic threads. I bought a set the other day to repair a stripped out 3mm self tapper hole on a buggy that I bought second hand. The previous owner has obviously got a bit carried away and stripped out the thread. So I helicoiled the hole and then was able to use a machined M3 threaded screw to hold the part in place.

QWORK Thread Repair Installation Kit, M3 x 2D Stainless Steel Thread Insert Combination Tool Set 50pcs

https://amzn.eu/d/6u5ZRwc

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Kol__

Thanks so much for the help and the links. I really appreciate it. 

Now, I need to find replacement ball ends. I searched around and can't seem to find any 5x9mm from Tamiya that are sold separately. I wonder if I can go with shorter ones?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A small amount of silicone grease on the threads might help stop this happening again.

If you can get the remains of the broken metal threaded part out from the plastic part, use superglue & a piece of scrap plastic parts tree to fill the hole up and then drill a new correctly sized hole for the replacement threaded metal part.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may be able to file or grind a small slot into what remains of the threaded part and use a small flat-headed screwdriver to remove it like a grub screw. You should then be able to keep these parts as spares - with the bonus that they're already threaded for the next ball studs.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, rich_f said:

You may be able to file or grind a small slot into what remains of the threaded part and use a small flat-headed screwdriver to remove it like a grub screw. You should then be able to keep these parts as spares - with the bonus that they're already threaded for the next ball studs.

Might be worth a try. Thanks.

The other issue is, I can't find that size Tamiya ball studs for sale separately. 

One of the guys at my local hobby shop thinks they may have snapped because the hole was slightly too small. Not sure though. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, Rally! said:

The other issue is, I can't find that size Tamiya ball studs for sale separately. 

I haven't had a ball stud snap like that myself, but I have seen it happen to others often enough to be very wary of the things. Personally I prefer to use ball nuts wherever possible. Part number 9804206 gets you four of them in sturdy steel:

s-l400.jpg

These have an M3 internal thread, so you can insert a machine screw from the opposite end of the hole, chosen to protrude almost but not quite the full length of the ball nut, and tighten the nut down onto this.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to try @rich_f idea of getting the remaining thread out and take it from there. I've ordered a new parts tree for replacement uprights, anyways, so I'll have some extras. 

I still want to have adjustable turnbuckles, so I guess I'll try some other ball connecters that hopefully won't snap. If anyone has any ideas, or has done a similar set-up, I'm all ears.

Thanks for all your responses and suggestions.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I gave it a shot and it didn't work.

It was impossible to get enough torque on the screwdriver with its tiny handle.

I also tried using a small chisel with a large wooden handle and that didn't work either. 

I'll keep trying.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One more idea if you don't get anywhere with trying to unscrew it from the hole - but also want to keep the upright as a spare - is to get a soldering iron and touch it to the broken screw so that the plastic softens enough for you to either unscrew it or just push it out.

It doesn't matter if you destroy the internal threads in the plastic because you can use a ball nut and regular screw as mentioned above - you just need the hole.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@rich_f Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I'm really determined to get these out even though I've ordered new parts.

It's getting personal, now! :lol:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...