RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 Hi, I don’t really know if I’m posting to the right section or not, but here goes. I’m having issues with a Re-Re Sand Scorcher I picked up today, mainly with its ESC (H-Wing 1060). When I plug in a 2S, (with no XT60 to Deans adapter), I have no issues whatsoever. But when I go to plug in any of my 3S LiPOs (which do have an XT60 to Deans adapter) I run into the 1060 “blinking light of death”. I’d be fine with running 2S on Scorchy, but the only small-scale battery I have is a 3S with an XT60 plug. Anyone know what the issue may be? Thanks so much! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 69376901856__79E9CE83-C59C-4760-9BB0-4A5B92ADFE9C.MOV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4703 Posted December 26, 2022 57 minutes ago, RC_FunLand said: I run into the 1060 “blinking light of death” Never actually heard of that!! Is the 3s fully charged, or at least more than the 3v per cell (9v)? You should get 4 beeps on 3s (3 short ,one long from the motor), when the esc is powered up (3 beeps for 2s). I'd be checking the adapter tbh, (I actually cut off the XT60 and solder on deans). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 The 3S is fully charged (balanced at 4.20V each). Probably the adapter. I’ll see if that helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 I feel like 1060s are extremely low quality ESCs. Should I replace it with a TBLE-02 I have lying around? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4703 Posted December 26, 2022 Just now, RC_FunLand said: I feel like 1060s are extremely low quality ESCs. Should I replace it with a TBLE-02 I have lying around? No The 1060 is a much better esc, has low volt cut off (blinking red light) and can run down to a 10t motor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4703 Posted December 26, 2022 If you do want to swap the plug, remember to only cut one wire at a time. I cut one, and soldered it to the deans, then cut the other. Reduces the risk of shorting out the lipo, which usually doesn't end well...😬🔥 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 Oh, alright. So next step is resolder the XT60 connectors to Deans? (Being careful not to short the battery in the process) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4703 Posted December 26, 2022 Just now, RC_FunLand said: Oh, alright. So next step is resolder the XT60 connectors to Deans? (Being careful not to short the battery in the process) If you've deans on the esc, I'd solder a deans onto the 3s, removing the xt60 from the equation. I've run a 15t firebolt on 3s ,with one of those escs, they can take some abuse. These are what I use , they've a plastic cover, which hides any, unsightly...🙄, soldering 😏😉 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/t-style-connector-male-female-with-insulating-caps-10-pairs.html?___store=en_us Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted December 26, 2022 Dumb question. but you have checked that the jumper switch is set to LiPo and not Nimh ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alvinlwh 5847 Posted December 26, 2022 1 hour ago, RC_FunLand said: I feel like 1060s are extremely low quality ESCs. Should I replace it with a TBLE-02 I have lying around? When I order kits, I will choose to remove TBLEs if possible, for a saving and use the discount from removing it to buy a 1060 or its Carson version. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 Just resoldered the connector. Still no go. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 29 minutes ago, MadInventor said: Dumb question. but you have checked that the jumper switch is set to LiPo and not Nimh ? Jumper is indeed on LiPo. Works with 2S. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 1 hour ago, Wooders28 said: If you've deans on the esc, I'd solder a deans onto the 3s, removing the xt60 from the equation. I've run a 15t firebolt on 3s ,with one of those escs, they can take some abuse. These are what I use , they've a plastic cover, which hides any, unsightly...🙄, soldering 😏😉 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/t-style-connector-male-female-with-insulating-caps-10-pairs.html?___store=en_us Resoldered result: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alvinlwh 5847 Posted December 26, 2022 The jumper just sets the LV cutoff and should have no effect on anything else. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4703 Posted December 26, 2022 1 hour ago, RC_FunLand said: Just resoldered the connector. Still no go. I'm fairly sure the blinking light ,means it's hit low volt cut off, I was thinking a broken wire/bad solder joint in the adapter was dropping the volt to the esc, it would need to drop it to below 9v (or 9.75v? As the esc drops to half power at 3.25v oer cell). Guessing you're getting the 4.2v per cell from the charger screen? If you've got an ammeter, see if it is 12.6v? Are you getting the motor beeps when you switch it on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 29 minutes ago, Wooders28 said: Are you getting the motor beeps when you switch it on? That’s the thing! No motor beeps on 3S, just a flashing red light. On the contrary, 2S beeps a couple of times and immediately becomes drivable. So darn confused. Thanks for the help so far you guys! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 26, 2022 31 minutes ago, Wooders28 said: Guessing you're getting the 4.2v per cell from the charger screen. All of the above. Charger says “4.20 4.20 4.20” and on the main screen “12.60“ (no duh). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4703 Posted December 26, 2022 1 hour ago, RC_FunLand said: That’s the thing! No motor beeps on 3S, just a flashing red light. On the contrary, 2S beeps a couple of times and immediately becomes drivable. So darn confused. Thanks for the help so far you guys! Urm............. If it works on 2s, the motor is OK, it's plugged into the RX right , and compatible etc.... It's defo a hobbywing 1060, and not an ebay knock off? 🤷♂️ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alvinlwh 5847 Posted December 26, 2022 1060s do go wrong sometimes, unfortunately. I had one that lost its BEC due to a water sorted out Rx. But I don't think they go wrong often. Perhaps get another one and try again, before writing them off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 27, 2022 1 hour ago, Wooders28 said: It's defo a hobbywing 1060, and not an ebay knock off? 🤷♂️ How would I differentiate between a cheap knockoff or a genuine model? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted December 27, 2022 1 hour ago, Wooders28 said: It's defo a hobbywing 1060, and not an ebay knock off? all my genuine HW branded 1060s that arrived in red white hobbywing box have a red heatsink; silicone cap over switch HW sells OE 1060s to other resellers eg Tamiya/Kyosho/private label which have black heatsink, no Hobbywing sticker. (Have also noticed missing silicone switch cap on OEs, so am a bit hesitant as to their waterproofness) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC_FunLand 167 Posted December 27, 2022 29 minutes ago, WillyChang said: HW sells OE 1060s to other resellers eg Tamiya/Kyosho/private label which have black heatsink, no Hobbywing sticker. (Have also noticed missing silicone switch cap on OEs, so am a bit hesitant as to their waterproofness) Hmm. I have one for sure that’s genuine (came in my CC-02 build box) which meets the criteria above. I’m comparing the two as I’m typing this, and the only notable difference is the silicone cap over the on/off switch, which is present on the Sand Scorcher one. Here’s a direct side-by-side comparison: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4703 Posted December 27, 2022 4 hours ago, RC_FunLand said: Here’s a direct side-by-side comparison: How's your other on 3s? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alvinlwh 5847 Posted December 27, 2022 11 hours ago, WillyChang said: all my genuine HW branded 1060s that arrived in red white hobbywing box have a red heatsink; silicone cap over switch HW sells OE 1060s to other resellers eg Tamiya/Kyosho/private label which have black heatsink, no Hobbywing sticker. (Have also noticed missing silicone switch cap on OEs, so am a bit hesitant as to their waterproofness) Here is a Schumacher branded 1060 in a HW box and red heatsink. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites