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RC_FunLand

CC02 Build Question

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Hi,

 

in the process of building my CC-02 Ford Bronco. Just got to the step where I need to attach the four linkage arms to the rear end of the car. The driveshaft is on an angle. Is this the way it was designed?DB8331DB-DFE2-477A-ADB5-C4CDC233A568.thumb.jpeg.dc4080ec221b8dec271652ade5ad040a.jpeg

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I don't have a CC-02 but with the looks of it, it should work since the driveshafts are universal. But did you try flipping the rear differential yet? What does the manual say?

 

EDIT: Looks like you did just right. Here are a couple of pics for reference.

CC-02 Carbon Steel Propeller Shaft (75mm)

d5.jpg

yss_gpm_cc2160sallocbk_03.jpg

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Just did a quick image search, and it looks right - don't forget a left to right angled shaft  is no different to an up to down shaft as far as universal joints go

54998_4c1.jpg

b_cc2160s_SUB_2.jpg

 

And found this;

 

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I have a CC02, (LWB right enough, so it's maybe not as pronounced looking) but can confirm, the rear shaft does run at the angle.
 It's never bound up or anything, works just fine.

 Also.  Hi @TWINSET  :-)

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Thank you all so much!

@stulec52, @TWINSET, and @Nicadraus.

 

Speaking on the topic of the CC-02, how does it perform box-stock? I’m using ballbearings (not the plastic garbage they put in the box) and also locked both the front and rear diffs.

 

Thanks so much!!

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Also, do you guys have any recommended upgrades for the CC-02? Any areas needing reinforced/aftermarket parts?

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Just now, RC_FunLand said:

Thank you all so much!

@stulec52, @TWINSET, and @Nicadraus.

 

Speaking on the topic of the CC-02, how does it perform box-stock? I’m using ballbearings (not the plastic garbage they put in the box) and also locked both the front and rear diffs.

 

Thanks so much!!

I enjoy mine a lot.
  Stock, I find it quite good for scale stuff.
 I locked the front diff, but left the rear open.
 I run an old Sport Tuned black can motor in mine, with a crawler specific speedo, which gives me good low down torque and control over the very low speeds.
  I have added a few hop ups.  don't need any of them at the low speeds I running at, but it looks great !
 The Tamiya alloy shocks are for sure an improvement though !

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20 hours ago, RC_FunLand said:

Also, do you guys have any recommended upgrades for the CC-02? Any areas needing reinforced/aftermarket parts?

If it were mine, I'd change these essentials for starters:

- Main drive shafts - replace to steel. Plastic flexes and snaps.

- Suspension links to metal/aluminum. No flexing and sturdier than stock plastic. Also ball cups are more precise than the stock screws that gives a lot of slopping.

- Better dampers. GF-01 or YR shocks are inexpensive and will do so much better than the stock plastic CVA.

Then once those have been replaced, I will slowly replace other stock plastic parts to metal/aluminum such as suspension link mounts, shock towers, to make it more sturdier and add more weight to the chassis. Crawlers don't need to be light. Then need to be hefty for better traction and more realistic body roll and movement of the suspension.

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On 12/28/2022 at 7:36 PM, RC_FunLand said:

Also, do you guys have any recommended upgrades for the CC-02? Any areas needing reinforced/aftermarket parts?

I would recommend the carbon steel prop shafts as pretty essential, along with a steel pinion gear. From a handling perspective Tamiya 54945 (low friction suspension balls) made a pleasant difference to the handling of mine.

If your running a silvercan motor you could probably call it a day there, mounting the steering servo to the axle is important as well if you find yourself suffering from a lot of bump steer.

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11 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

If your running a silvercan motor you could probably call it a day there, mounting the steering servo to the axle is important as well if you find yourself suffering from a lot of bump steer.

Good to know! I actually brought it out (without a body) to a “crawler area” (with water, mud, roots, rocks, etc.) and it performed beautifully! I’m running it on a 35T RC4WD motor, as well as a 2S LiPo. Only noticed a small amount of bump steer- not significant enough to cause any problems, IMO.

14 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

I would recommend the carbon steel prop shafts as pretty essential, along with a steel pinion gear. From a handling perspective Tamiya 54945 (low friction suspension balls) made a pleasant difference to the handling of mine.

I’m pleasantly surprised with the 16T cheese pinion gear. As to the upgraded suspension balls, that sounds like a great idea.

 

0B496C54-77B6-4DA0-9CAF-7F1B1CF577A0.thumb.jpeg.90e14a3d77788f9161f515a649056268.jpegThank you so much!!

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personally, I am mainly going with the run it stock, until a part breaks, then upgrade it.
 With a few exceptions.
I have not had any issues with the stock drive shafts so far, and I've put more than a silver can through them, but like I say, if they break, at that point I'll upgrade.

 I have changed out the shocks. Went with the Tamiya Alloy ones (54991), but I would bet any Yeah Racing or similar would be plenty good.
I changed out the plastic links. Less flex, or friction, plus looks better.
 I added the Yeah Racing skid plates. Couple of reasons.  The look good, and sort of protect, but adds a little more weight right down low, which helps stability.
 I changed out the wheels and tires, widened the stance a little.
also added Tamiya Aluminum Spur Gear Mount (54970) and Motor Mount Bridge Spacer (54971) for a little extra strength in the drive train.
   had mine out in the snow yesterday, glad it's waterproof !   it doesn't like powder, but anything else it handles great !

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48 minutes ago, stulec52 said:

I added the Yeah Racing skid plates. Couple of reasons.  The look good, and sort of protect, but adds a little more weight right down low, which helps stability.

Was thinking about getting these- the car does seem a bit light.

 

EDIT: just got them. :lol:
2E5D2992-AFA9-443C-83B8-BBE386BA0483.thumb.jpeg.54a87e20773cee215099f72cd8234f1b.jpeg

Edited by RC_FunLand

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Are you running the kit tyres?  That's one place you'll get some nice performance gains if you go with something softer.  I went with the soft Rock Blocks because of the price but there's better options out there.

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8 hours ago, Blista said:

Are you running the kit tyres?  That's one place you'll get some nice performance gains if you go with something softer.  I went with the soft Rock Blocks because of the price but there's better options out there.

My kit comes stock with Rock Blocks, so technically yes! :lol:

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9 hours ago, RC_FunLand said:

How do these shocks perform? More flex?

I’m using the kit shocks w/o any spacers.  I tried out a longer front spring but I’ve gone back to the soft kit spring since that photo was taken. 

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1 hour ago, Frog Jumper said:

I’m using the kit shocks w/o any spacers.  I tried out a longer front spring but I’ve gone back to the soft kit spring since that photo was taken. 

Mine doesn’t stay without spacers… if I don’t put spacers on, the shock spring just wobbles around as it’s not as long as the shock shaft at full extension.

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Try putting some weight into the tyres/wheels. Particularly in the front wheels. I think the chassis definitely benefits from low down weight. All the bodies are quite top heavy especially if you use one of the CC01 hard bodies!!

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2 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Try putting some weight into the tyres/wheels. Particularly in the front wheels. I think the chassis definitely benefits from low down weight. All the bodies are quite top heavy especially if you use one of the CC01 hard bodies!!

Do I still need to add weight to the front if I’m already getting YeahRacing stainless steel bumpers?

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2 minutes ago, RC_FunLand said:

Do I still need to add weight to the front if I’m already getting YeahRacing stainless steel bumpers?

Well it depends. I’m no scientist but there is a big difference between sprung (bumper, body etc ) and unsprung (wheels, diff covers etc.)  weight. I believe for crawling/ trail running unsprung is more effective as it creates grip. Sprung weight determines how the body reacts to suspension movements..

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1 minute ago, Busdriver said:

Well it depends. I’m no scientist but there is a big difference between sprung (bumper, body etc ) and unsprung (wheels, diff covers etc.)  weight. I believe for crawling/ trail running unsprung is more effective as it creates grip. Sprung weight determines how the body reacts to suspension movements..

So, would it even be worth it to install heavier metal parts, or just stick with “wheel weight”?

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1 minute ago, RC_FunLand said:

So, would it even be worth it to install heavier metal parts, or just stick with “wheel weight”?

I’ve gone with wheel weights in mine and it definitely improved traction and stops it rocking back on steep hills

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