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Panel lines: yes or no?

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At the moment I am working on a Defender body and I am in doubt if I shall add panel lines. I know how to do it with micron tape or paint, I have done it several times. Although it looks good initially, after some time it always looks to me if door rubbers come out. And black is a bit strong for panel lines on light coloured cars. What is the general opinion on panel lines for a crawler that will be used. Does it add realism or is it not worth the effort?

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I rarely bother on RC cars, especially for Lexan bodies. As you said, black is usually too stark and ends up looking fake anyway. I have seen some techniques I want to try on hard bodies and static models involving weathering powders, but haven't had the chance yet.

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I did a dark brown oil wash to one of my Scorcher shells and at least here the effect was good IMO.

This is a hard body so there are sharp recesses and lines for it to go into, no idea if the effect would sell on a lexan body.

You might try doing a darker version of the main color using non permanent markers in the lines on lexan for an experiment, no good then wash it off, good then wash it off and apply a permanent one..

IMG_20220806_124812.jpg.aa177d90ceba368292062f275a71cf5e.jpg

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I always do the panel lines, at least the doors/hood/trunk with an Ultrafine back sharpie. Really adds a lot of depth to the body. 

Can see the difference - I just did the doors on this body and left the hood alone, the hood lines are there but hard to see. 

20221120-101105-SM.jpg 

 

Both on Lexan and hard bodies:

IMG-4293sm.jpg

 

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Yes to panel lines, helps so much with the realism I reckon.

Where the black is too stark of a contrast, I have in the past unwound some micron tape and stuck it down on some clean polycarbonate scrap material before misting it from  a distance with the intended body colour/spray can. When it's dry, carefully lift it off the polycarbonate and stick it on the body as usual for a different tone.

Ive found this gives the effect of a shadow/crevice better and provides good contrast to other areas which are plain old black micron tape. 

Here's a pic of my FJ40, the panel line at the back of the bonnet/hood is a lighter body colour line when compared to the black line next to it (gotta put a wash around the hinges when time allows ha ha)....

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers

Kurt

 

20230105_130548.jpg

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Like @Ziddan, I don't really bother with RC body as they get trashed anyway, but I do it on my static models.

Anyway, as you said, never use black on white (or light colours) unless you are going for a anime look. The Gundam guys have a handy guide on what to use on what.

https://blog.fromjapan.co.jp/en/hobby/gundam-panel-lining-gunplas-guide-to-markers-and-paints.html

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I like the idea of panel lines but think they often look too harsh on lexan bodies.

@Beetlemankurt smart idea. I will certainly try and replicate though not sure I will get it as good as yours. 

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I aspire but never seem to achieve. I like @alvinlwh do washes and panel lines on static bodies but find the results when I try it on Lexan either too cartoonish or just wrong. Most likely my bad application!!!!

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1 hour ago, GeeWings said:

I like the idea of panel lines but think they often look too harsh on lexan bodies

The reason it don't look quite "right" on PC bodies is they sit in front of the material while the paint is behind. Kind of floating on top. Look on a real car, the shadow (panel line) is deep in the recess, not on top.

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

The reason it don't look quite "right" on PC bodies is they sit in front of the material while the paint is behind. Kind of floating on top. Look on a real car, the shadow (panel line) is deep in the recess, not on top.

Yep, totally. But I think beetlemankurt’s efforts really overcome that very well. 

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I don't know how exactly you'd go about it but perhaps if the line paint was on the inside it would seem less "in your face"? Maybe using panel line tape on the inside as a mask before finally backing in black? Maybe even lay that mask down after a first light coat rather than at the outset. The motor skills to deliver on this are probably beyond me though! 

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3 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

I don't know how exactly you'd go about it but perhaps if the line paint was on the inside it would seem less "in your face"? Maybe using panel line tape on the inside as a mask before finally backing in black? Maybe even lay that mask down after a first light coat rather than at the outset. The motor skills to deliver on this are probably beyond me though! 

Yes, that's one way. Although I will probably just use the tape inside and spray over it and be done with.

Static modellers sometimes score panel lines to cut it deeper and more realistic, but pretty sure that is not what you will want to do to a PC body. It will just break up into panel parts at the first crash!

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Many good ideas and opinions. The pictures explain how different ideas work out. Using tape on the inside is something new for me. My Defender is already in colour but for the next project I will consider this. Thanks.

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Cheers @GeeWings. I do recall that some spray cans can be a bit hit and miss as to how well they will 'mist' but most are OK if the can is warmed up first.

I remember that for one lot of panel lines I had simply sprayed a bit of paint in the paint cap/lid, dipped my finger in it and ran it across the tape as it lay on the scrap polycarbonate, before applying it to the body. Have to be quick though as it dries fast but that way you can also adjust the tone of colour depending on how thick/thin you apply the paint.

A bit of trial and error involved but all part of the fun :).

Cheers Kurt.

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If it were a scale build or a shelfie body (shelf queen), panel lines would look nice. But if the body is intended for hard bashing or racing, then it is not necessary. 

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I tried the sharpie but I wasn’t steady enough. Had good luck with super narrow pinstriping tape that they use for airplanes and scale models.  I like the way the Porsche came out, the Camaro used a slighter wider tape and I wasn’t thrilled with it.

B36158BE-030C-4EB3-A324-F856CF36A047.jpeg

2B8215FD-DFA5-4CA2-B472-2C78DFBCB384.jpeg

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One suggestion I'll make is, depending on the subject, use at least 2 different widths of tape. Varying the thickness of panel lines will add some visual interest. (Example: Bumper parting lines slightly smaller than door gaps)

Also, be subtle. These are small scale objects. 

 

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Sorry to be off-topic.

@Willy iine is that PS19 Camel Yellow on your CR-01? What color did you back with? Looks gorgeous there. I'm hoping for something like that to sit alongside the Caterpillar Yellow of the Heavy Dump.

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35 minutes ago, isomer1 said:

Sorry to be off-topic.

@Willy iine is that PS19 Camel Yellow on your CR-01? What color did you back with? Looks gorgeous there. I'm hoping for something like that to sit alongside the Caterpillar Yellow of the Heavy Dump.

Thanks!  Yep, camel yellow and no backing,  This is camel yellow as well.  Wing is using TS.

IMG_2022-11-6-122502.jpg.7afa6cd5e363eb1f77a4bddd6324097e.jpg

 

Back to topic.. more panel lines.  B)

IMG_2022-9-21-161108.thumb.jpg.9e4067ea4899ea242396a88df1443ad2.jpg

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We do this all the time on 1/24 model kits with Tamiya Black Panel Wash, but I've never actually thought of doing it on a RC car body. Looking at these images it's clear I should though! If there's a crease in the body, I would definitely use the Panel Wash, if not the sharpie approach looks like its working well. Not to sure my hands are steady enough though :D

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On 1/9/2023 at 9:15 AM, 67CamaroSS said:

I tried the sharpie but I wasn’t steady enough.

 

3 hours ago, KenTC said:

Not to sure my hands are steady enough though :D

Don't throw away the excess lexan pieces that are left over after trimming the body. Instead, use them as support pieces to trace the lines with a fine sharpie.

A straight length of lexan serves to lean against along single-axis curvatures (or even simple two-axis). This pretty much guarantees good lines on simple bent sections.

For more complex lines, place a lexan piece on top of the body and draw the line on top of the piece, then cut the lexan piece following the line (perhaps with little tweaks needed afterwards). Finally, use the cut part as a template to lean against when tracing the actual line on the body.

If you mess-up a line, wipe with tissue/towel slightly damp with alcohol and try again.

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