Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
rwordenjr

Airbrush body paint scratching off

Recommended Posts

Recently started airbrushing bodies with proline airbrush paint... the paint is scratching off in some areas just by taking the body on/off. Anyone else have this issue and know of a way to make the airbrush paint more durable?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not familiar with that brand, I use Vallejo which is similar "pure/real" acrylic I believe.

I lay on a layer of thick Vallejo clear of some kind (Matt, gloss, your choice) as the last coat. Also, for backing, I use Vallejo primer instead of just regular. Finally, for the actual color, I try to use paint from their Game or Mecha ranges as they are claimed to be more durable. And of course their Premium which is said to be for RC. Even so, key areas still can rub off so protection with tape is recommended.

I recently spoke to a professional painter at the local model club, he said that there is a primer for PC, which if used, any paint can o on. This is sold as Tamiya PS-55 at a greatly inflated cost and can be bought cheaper at auto shop he said. I had not tried this yet but will be doing so with an upcoming body.

IMG_20210924_165715.jpeg

This is done using Vallejo Game gold, Mecha yellow, gloss metal black primer and finally clear, so very thick paint. Still rubbed off by the ESC cables. Luckily easy to repair and now area is protected by tape.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
34 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

I am not familiar with that brand, I use Vallejo which is similar "pure/real" acrylic I believe.

I lay on a layer of thick Vallejo clear of some kind (Matt, gloss, your choice) as the last coat. Also, for backing, I use Vallejo primer instead of just regular. Finally, for the actual color, I try to use paint from their Game or Mecha ranges as they are claimed to be more durable. And of course their Premium which is said to be for RC. Even so, key areas still can rub off so protection with tape is recommended.

I recently spoke to a professional painter at the local model club, he said that there is a primer for PC, which if used, any paint can o on. This is sold as Tamiya PS-55 at a greatly inflated cost and can be bought cheaper at auto shop he said. I had not tried this yet but will be doing so with an upcoming body.

IMG_20210924_165715.jpeg

This is done using Vallejo Game gold, Mecha yellow, gloss metal black primer and finally clear, so very thick paint. Still rubbed off by the ESC cables. Luckily easy to repair and now area is protected by tape.

thanks, yours looks good. And it is areas that are rubbing against a screw head but the tamiya ps painted bodies i have, have not rubbed off. So i defintely dont think the acrylic is as durable as the tamiya ps which sucks because airbrushing is a lot cheaper than ps cans and more options for detailing. anyways, ill try to keep searching for a way to toughen it up 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use clear tape on the inside to protect the paint from scuffs on some bodies. Works great.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

clear tape

This topic interests me as i have quite a few acrylic paints and an airbrush due to my wargaming hobby.

For clarification: acrylics on the insides of polycarbonate shells, protected by clear tape, is durable enough for everyday use?

Im asking because i was under the impression that paint, other than tamiya ps (or different brand same chemistry, etch paint?) would just flake off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apply a backing coat from a spray can. You have to be careful because some are a bit too "hot". I use Halfords clear acrylic laquer which is fine if you build up in thin coats.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ziddan said:

Im asking because i was under the impression that paint, other than tamiya ps (or different brand same chemistry, etch paint?) would just flake off.

'Pure/real acrylic like Vallejo, Mig, etc can be used but not Tamiya acrylic or Mr Hobby ones. How to tell them apart, generally? The real ones are usually 100% water based and have little to no smell while the ones that have a smell of solvent, no.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, sosidge said:

Apply a backing coat from a spray can. You have to be careful because some are a bit too "hot". I use Halfords clear acrylic laquer which is fine if you build up in thin coats.

Actually since @rwordenjr airbrush, he does not need to use a backing coat from a spray can at all but airbrush it on too. That way, even if it is too 'hot', the light controlled spray from an airbrush will reduce the effect. Also, due to the fine spray from an airbrush, it dry quicker compared to from a can, so reducing the time it can damage the underlying paint.

I did it many times airbrushing PS paints (hot) onto Vallejo (soft) with no problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

So i defintely dont think the acrylic is as durable as the tamiya ps which sucks because airbrushing is a lot cheaper than ps cans and more options for detailing. anyways, ill try to keep searching for a way to toughen it up 

Again, back to this professional painter I spoke to at the modelling club, he said that PS paint is a type of etching paint, meaning it melts the plastic to bond with it. Acrylic on the other hand just sits on top of the PC material and can peel right off.

My very thick paint finish did not help with the peeling as the final color (gold) is effectively the primer and it was not bonded effectively to the plastic.

A side note, I come across some very old PC paint which are too thick to airbrush. I tried various thinners and none work until I tried cellulose thinner, something that should never be used on plastic models and it worked! In fact it worked really well and I believe it actually helps to melt the PC shell for the paint to "bite".

bTTghf2.jpeg

However DO NOT use cellulose with your real/pure acrylic, it will turn into a jelly!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...