STL software for 3D printing

[Frankster 2033]

Hi,

 

As part of my 2023 New Year resolution, I would like to work on more 3D printing projects (and a 3D printer shortly afterwards).  Any recommendations on a a free or low cost software to start off?  
 

At the moment I just want to edit an existing STL file.  

Any recommendations software for more intricate designs?  Intermediary level?

 

Lastly has anyone used websites Grabcad and cults3d?

Any help is greatly appreciated 

 

[Ziddan 947]

3d builder is free and good for simple editing, cut, paste, add/subtract basic geometric shapes very easily.

For more advanced edits or from the ground up creations i use blender (free) because it isnt limited to using pre existing shapes, you can add in points(vertices) and join them together to make custom shapes. its system for measuring is also better than 3d builder, but it isnt really intended for CAD like creation, there are plugins for that but i dont use them, i just learned a bit of blender several years ago to make avatars for video games and have kept using it to make 3d stuff.

Tinkercad is more like actual CAD software, made by autodesk, free to use and runs in your web browser, its more advanced than 3d builder, has better measurement tools but still really easy to use, easier than blender but more limited.

The "right" way is probably using some actual CAD software, like the free for hobbyists version of fusion360, fully parametric modeling, industry standard etc, but i havnt been able to get my head around it.

No opinion on Grabcad.

Cults3d, download models, free or paid, edit if needed and then print, really easy and a lot of stuff available.

This below is a bathtub style chassi with rear swing arm suspension and front double wishbones i modeled up in blender, made it to fit a lunchbox body, it uses the leftover pogo sticks and 380 motor from my grasshopper, lego tires, m3 hardware, some random rear axles and dogbones i had laying about. I cant say its a very competent design but it drives

I imported and modified the models for the front lower arms, a blackfoot spur gear, rims and a diff but the rest is fully my own.

Your tt02 shock towers were modified in blender from existing files.

[Frankster 2033]

@Ziddan thanks for the write up.  Will keep you posted.  
 

I was going to go onto Cults3d, pay for a file and modify a chassis.  Overall shorten the wheelbase.  
 

What software do you recommend for this?

[Ziddan 947]

Id probably use blender due to my familiarity with it but without such knowledge of a specific editing program id think 3d builder would be up to the task.

Unless there is some odd geometry involved it would probably just be a matter of picking a good location on the chassi files and using the plane cut feature>keep both parts>cutting away the excess length and joining the remaining bits back up.

[Frankster 2033]

5 hours ago, Ziddan said:

 

 

You need to make this an “A-Team” van

[Frankster 2033]

Looking to shrink the wheelbase down for a TA02.  Will Blender software work?

Is this a reputable website.  My iPhone says this is a deceptive website.  
 

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/tamiya-ta02-ff01-chassis-set

 

[sosidge 624]

A lot of people use that site but I never have myself so couldn't comment on any bad experiences.

I just wanted to mention that modifying STLs can be a real pain sometimes. The file has no geometry data, it's just a "mesh", and even if you do a good clean job with your modifications, it's quite common to end up with file errors or files that are difficult to slice for printing.

A chassis is a big job but personally I prefer to start from scratch if I want an accurate part. Fusion 360 is awesome for free software.

[Ziddan 947]

2 hours ago, Frankster said:

My iPhone says this is a deceptive website.  

Its well established in the 3d printing space, ive bought files from users on there with no issues.

Blender should work fine.

Looking at the chassi i think the easy places to shorten it would be raising the batter up to stand on its side to take some length out there, would need raising the top deck to compensate but thats easy.

Cutting the space between the battery box and the bottom of the servo out and shortening the top deck plate correspondingly.

If in dire need of shortening even more then the servo could be moved up onto the top deck, above the battery and the front end moved back, leaveing just enough space for the steering setup (except for the servo arm coming down from its new position, instead of up from the bottom plate.).

Those changes are all quite easy to do, nothing touching mechanics, beyond the need for a shorter prop shaft.

The rear arms could either be flipped or new ones modeled swept forward to further dcrease the wheelbase.

Any specific shell you are looking to fit it to?

1 hour ago, sosidge said:

it's quite common to end up with file errors or files that are difficult to slice for printing.

This is what the repair feature in netfabb is for

[Nikko85 3454]

I like Tinkercad. It's like drawing in ppt, not professional but easy to use and when you know what you are doing results can be good. Not good for curves and complex shapes but good enough for me.

[Frankster 2033]

3 hours ago, sosidge said:

A lot of people use that site but I never have myself so couldn't comment on any bad experiences.

I just wanted to mention that modifying STLs can be a real pain sometimes. The file has no geometry data, it's just a "mesh", and even if you do a good clean job with your modifications, it's quite common to end up with file errors or files that are difficult to slice for printing.

A chassis is a big job but personally I prefer to start from scratch if I want an accurate part. Fusion 360 is awesome for free software.

Hoping to start somewhere… for Chassis will try modifying as it is complex.  The one I showed looks good as a starting point 

[Frankster 2033]

2 hours ago, Ziddan said:

Its well established in the 3d printing space, ive bought files from users on there with no issues.

Blender should work fine.

Looking at the chassi i think the easy places to shorten it would be raising the batter up to stand on its side to take some length out there, would need raising the top deck to compensate but thats easy.

Cutting the space between the battery box and the bottom of the servo out and shortening the top deck plate correspondingly.

If in dire need of shortening even more then the servo could be moved up onto the top deck, above the battery and the front end moved back, leaveing just enough space for the steering setup (except for the servo arm coming down from its new position, instead of up from the bottom plate.).

Those changes are all quite easy to do, nothing touching mechanics, beyond the need for a shorter prop shaft.

The rear arms could either be flipped or new ones modeled swept forward to further dcrease the wheelbase.

Any specific shell you are looking to fit it to?

This is what the repair feature in netfabb is for

Good idea reversing arms.  Another TC thread noted 258mm would be 237mm when reversed  
 

I am looking to cut out a good 83mm from the wheelbase.  Is I reverse the rear arms and lose 21mm I only need to cut out 62mm from the middle chassis.   Will send photos later on in the week of the body I am proposing 🤗

 

[Frankster 2033]

2 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

I like Tinkercad. It's like drawing in ppt, not professional but easy to use and when you know what you are doing results can be good. Not good for curves and complex shapes but good enough for me.

Is this a free software?   I am not a heavy user… at the moment

[Nikko85 3454]

Yes free to use. I have a work account as I am based at a university, but I am sure it is free for anyone.

[bRIBEGuy 3049]

TinkerCad is free web based software.

Fusion 360 (free) is a very good option.

Alibre Atom 3D is another good choice if you decide to pay a bit for software, and are looking for a more "Solidworks" type interface.

[Xeostar 815]

I use Design Spark, free from RS

DesignSpark Mechanical | RS (rs-online.com)

It's a slightly cutdown version of SpaceClaim:-

Ansys SpaceClaim | 3D CAD Modeling Software

These are not your traditional parametric CAD design software where you have a model creation tree history but more direct modelling software packages. Once you get the hang of them they are super flexible perfect for prototyping and 3D printing. I've been using design spark for years for home Spaceclaim at work.

Screen grab of a 3d printed design I was messing with a while back.

 

[Frankster 2033]

Thanks @Ziddan @Nikko85 @bRIBEGuy @Xeostar looks like I have lots of good options. It has been a while since issued cad and it was mostly in 2D.  
 

Will keep you all posted

[Aerobert 2148]

I'm using Tinkercad for my 3D desings and I really like it. As said before it is more basic, if you need to create special shapes it could be better to use something else. I've tried to modify a stl-file in Tinkercad which doesn't work.

[Ziddan 947]

16 hours ago, Frankster said:

hoping to leave space for a servo and battery by flipping the arm

I looked some more at the chassi and ive realized the battery cant be stood on it its side to shorten the chassi due to it then being in the way of the prop shaft.

Going by the reported wheelbase with the correct flipped rear arms, 236mm, you would need to take off another 61mm and i think that is possible only if the servo is relocated.

This isnt exact, just an edited image, but should be close to what im thinking:

This would leave the steering mechanism intact.

As for a new servo location, the options i think would be easy are either rolling the servo forward by 180 degrees from its standard location to have it sit on top of the front gearbox, or lifting it straight up to sit on top of the battery.

If going for the first option then the top deck, above the battery could hold the RX and ESC, if the latter, with the servo above the battery, then the top deck could be widened and have RX and ESC on the "wings" to either side of the servo.

In either case the top deck, above the steering mechanism will need to have a slot added, through which the servo arm would go to connect to the crank.

 

ADDITION:

If a smaller battery is an option then the servo might be relocated into the left or right sides of the battery box, still with the same overall shape of the chassi in my above picture, possibly rolled to the left or right from its standard orientation so it would only take away 20mm or so of the length for the battery.

 

9 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Just fix the front gearbox directly to the rear gearbox.

What are you making ?

Im also very interested to see where this goes

[Frankster 2033]

22 hours ago, Ziddan said:

I looked some more at the chassi and ive realized the battery cant be stood on it its side to shorten the chassi due to it then being in the way of the prop shaft.

Going by the reported wheelbase with the correct flipped rear arms, 236mm, you would need to take off another 61mm and i think that is possible only if the servo is relocated.

This isnt exact, just an edited image, but should be close to what im thinking:

This would leave the steering mechanism intact.

As for a new servo location, the options i think would be easy are either rolling the servo forward by 180 degrees from its standard location to have it sit on top of the front gearbox, or lifting it straight up to sit on top of the battery.

If going for the first option then the top deck, above the battery could hold the RX and ESC, if the latter, with the servo above the battery, then the top deck could be widened and have RX and ESC on the "wings" to either side of the servo.

In either case the top deck, above the steering mechanism will need to have a slot added, through which the servo arm would go to connect to the crank.

 

ADDITION:

If a smaller battery is an option then the servo might be relocated into the left or right sides of the battery box, still with the same overall shape of the chassi in my above picture, possibly rolled to the left or right from its standard orientation so it would only take away 20mm or so of the length for the battery.

 

Im also very interested to see where this goes

😂

Should I pay and edit existing file or start from scratch?   Time is not on my side  but I don’t have unlimited funds

 

 

[Frankster 2033]

23 hours ago, Ziddan said:

I looked some more at the chassi and ive realized the battery cant be stood on it its side to shorten the chassi due to it then being in the way of the prop shaft.

Going by the reported wheelbase with the correct flipped rear arms, 236mm, you would need to take off another 61mm and i think that is possible only if the servo is relocated.

This isnt exact, just an edited image, but should be close to what im thinking:

This would leave the steering mechanism intact.

As for a new servo location, the options i think would be easy are either rolling the servo forward by 180 degrees from its standard location to have it sit on top of the front gearbox, or lifting it straight up to sit on top of the battery.

If going for the first option then the top deck, above the battery could hold the RX and ESC, if the latter, with the servo above the battery, then the top deck could be widened and have RX and ESC on the "wings" to either side of the servo.

In either case the top deck, above the steering mechanism will need to have a slot added, through which the servo arm would go to connect to the crank.

 

ADDITION:

If a smaller battery is an option then the servo might be relocated into the left or right sides of the battery box, still with the same overall shape of the chassi in my above picture, possibly rolled to the left or right from its standard orientation so it would only take away 20mm or so of the length for the battery.

 

Im also very interested to see where this goes

Thanks for the photo edit.  It helps to visualize.    
 

I was think of same thing with servo above battery deck but more on the left side while maintaining the steering arm.  Need to keep the battery standard size for my other cars. 
 

[Ziddan 947]

1 hour ago, Frankster said:

pay and edit existing file or start from scratch

Personally i would pay and edit but im lazy and already have bit of a grasp on 3d stuff, tennish bucks isnt that much.

Going from scratch will be more time consuming but you could decided to look at the time as an investment in skills useful in further 3d projects, perhaps for something where paying and editing isnt an option.

It isnt a hugely complex thing to make in 3d, just needs some calipering of hole spacings and distances for where the gearboxes should be attaching, if going this way you will also have the option to considering how you will mount Bob on it from the start and take that into account while designing, perhaps by making a top deck with integrated mount points.

The chassi is relatively simple so i think tinkercad would be a good fit, its mostly point, click and drag (but do look up the keys for moving parts in increments of mms by using the scale feature and keyboard buttons, super useful for precision stuff, and learn the alignment tool), blender would easily do it too but the learning curve of the program itself is pretty steep and overkill for this.

The whole thing seems like its symmetrical to me so you could just make half and then mirror it.

[Frankster 2033]

Thanks @Ziddan I was considering to pay for it as it will be my first 3D model attempt.  Start off slowly to learn the software. Also quicker as between work, and family there is limited time for RC.
Thanks for the Tinkercad advice.  

[Ziddan 947]

Tinkercad for going from scratch but id say Blender if editing.

Blender allows for deforming extant meshes without the need to cut them, Tinkercad doesnt so actually compressing the section where the servo sits in the original file would require more operations.

Tinkercad-> make three duplicates of the chassi, cut away all but the front of one, servo section of another and batterybox-and-behind on the third, compress the servo section, move the front parts into position and then join them back together giving the correct length.

Blender-> select the vertices making up the servo section, scale them lengthwise to compress them and move them towards the back, select the vertices that make up the front section and move it back to give the correct wheelbase.

Comes down to how and what you want to do.

[RustyHunter 42]

What 3D printer do you have? I would recommend learning Fusion 360 at some point, but it sounds like this project would make more sense to just buy the model and modify it if possible.

[XJman 74]

I use cura slicer and do most of my model work in either solid edge or freecad. I had issues with the tinkercad meshes but it's another popular option if you just want to modify existing stuff.