My 1/12 crew

[Nikko85 3767]

On 4/28/2023 at 3:56 PM, Gebbly said:

I love that Jurassic Park Jeep. The proportions are just perfect. Makes me think of McGuyver

@Busdriver, that 6 wheeled log carrier looks great, what is it?

Many thanks! I needed to custom size the MF01x wheelbase with a 3d printed spacer but it works perfectly. I got quite lucky with width and dimensions and the cockpit fits perfectly over the chassis.

I've since dropped some more scale wheels on.

Added this SCT  to the fleet too

And this Jeep as a wild willy tribute!

I really have a thing for these 1/12 scale 115 mm wheel trucks, be it a GF01, QD or CW01.

[Gebbly 760]

On 4/28/2023 at 9:14 PM, Busdriver said:

also have a third body that is a shortened Pumpkin body

Another cracker! Geez, now I have a hankering for a G6-01.

But its your log carrier that I really love. Especially in that matt green. It really looks like something from the US army in WWII. I think I'll have to start watching videos about "scratch building", you get fantastic results from it. Does it mean some sort of raw sheet materials or perhaps taking parts from lots of donor kits or something? I have seen Adam Savage use a heat machine to melt plastic into shapes for some of his creations.

 

8 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

I really have a thing for these 1/12 scale 115 mm wheel trucks, be it a GF01, QD or CW01

They do look really good. People down in Devon take old 1:1 Land Rover Defenders, beef them up and take them off roading in the farms. They usually put on larger tires and exhaust snorkels etc. It looks exactly like someone has done the same thing to a Willys Jeep in your latest photos. I love the look.

[Nikko85 3767]

On 4/28/2023 at 1:53 AM, rc_ox said:

Wow! Great collection  Thanks so much for sharing all your MF01x info. It has been very helpful and inspiring!

I first came across the MF01x when I started looking around for an alternative to the Wild Willy Shapeways chassis build. I really want to turn my Wild Willy into a little trail truck but the cost of Shapeways parts and trying to find some axles wasn't viable. The helpful TC folk put me onto the Wild Willy build by @JennyMo and I was SOLD!

Now that I've seen your builds, I'm even more excited to see what I can put on this chassis. I have a Jimny MF01x in the post, on it's way to me. The plan is to fit the WW Jeep to it with no spacers. I have a TL-01 as well so I have some alternate parts to work with. 

Although, I'm a sucker for an FJ (My CC01 got me back into the hobby), and now that I see your FJ45 ute, I'm in love!! It looks great - even a little 'comical'.

Would you mind sharing the details on how the MF01x sits under it? Any spacers? Wheelbase?

I'm seriously thinking of getting a silver one like yours and putting it on the MF01X - then maybe put the WW Jeep on the FJ45 chassis - although, I'm not expecting it to be a 'performer'.   

My FJ45 has the single long spacer, which gives a wheelbase of 171mm + 29 mm = 200mm.

For this I had to cut a 5mm diameter aluminium round bar to make the prop shaft.

Arms are standard, with a 10 mm hex to stop the wheels rubbing upfront and widen a little. Wheels are Sand paddles over a m chassis wheel

The mounts were stock I believe.

It is a nice car but it is probably on it's way out as doesn't do anything my other cars don't! 

 

[Busdriver 6270]

13 hours ago, Gebbly said:

But its your log carrier that I really love. Especially in that matt green. It really looks like something from the US army in WWII. I think I'll have to start watching videos about "scratch building", you get fantastic results from it. Does it mean some sort of raw sheet materials or perhaps taking parts from lots of donor kits or something? I have seen Adam Savage use a heat machine to melt plastic into shapes for some of his creations.

Thanks, I’m not a great scratch builder really. There are far better exponents in the club than me. I use a combination of bits and bobs of modelling stuff that I have amassed over the last 30/40 years!! As well as sheet plastic. I have no real engineering skills I just play around until something fits!!!

[Nikko85 3767]

17 hours ago, Gebbly said:

They do look really good. People down in Devon take old 1:1 Land Rover Defenders, beef them up and take them off roading in the farms. They usually put on larger tires and exhaust snorkels etc. It looks exactly like someone has done the same thing to a Willys Jeep in your latest photos. I love the look.

Funny you should mention a land rover.. 

Decided to try a scale build to add to the collection. Its going on the MF01x that was the FJ45 as I've got two FJ45s in my collection and thought having a Jeep, Defender and FJ45 was too cool to miss.

[Gebbly 760]

3 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

Funny you should mention a land rover

Very nice. That should fit right in with the rest of your family

Thats not a tamiya body is it?

[Nikko85 3767]

52 minutes ago, Gebbly said:

Very nice. That should fit right in with the rest of your family

Thats not a tamiya body is it?

No, its mn models who sell v cheap crawlers with mixed reviews. The bodies always get a thumbs up, so I buy them separate for around £15 or so.

This one has a wheelbase of 200 mm so it is a true 1/12 size, perfect for the MF01X.

Will paint up like an old safari LR if I can.

[rc_ox 323]

19 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

My FJ45 has the single long spacer, which gives a wheelbase of 171mm + 29 mm = 200mm.

For this I had to cut a 5mm diameter aluminium round bar to make the prop shaft.

Arms are standard, with a 10 mm hex to stop the wheels rubbing upfront and widen a little. Wheels are Sand paddles over a m chassis wheel

The mounts were stock I believe.

It is a nice car but it is probably on it's way out as doesn't do anything my other cars don't! 

 

THANK YOU! This is very helpful - especially the prop shaft detail. I just made a mess of my TL01 prop shaft I trimmed it down for the WW2 MF01X wheelbase - I (stupidly) used a hand drill (I don't have a drill press) to make the 2mm pin hole and snapped the bit off in the hole  it's off centre anyway - what a mess! I still have the Jimny shaft that isn't being used but I may go with an aluminium rod if I can source some materials at the local hobby store. 

I may also look at some wide hexes now that you mention them. I am so happy with the look of it at the moment but I noticed the front left tyre is very close to the chassis at full lock.

 

Oh, and your LandRover comment helped me find the 'body only' set for the FJ45 on Aliexpress! - a more appealing purchase than the full FJ45 kit - the chassis and electronics look pretty rubbish TBH. 

[Nikko85 3767]

7 hours ago, rc_ox said:

THANK YOU! This is very helpful - especially the prop shaft detail. I just made a mess of my TL01 prop shaft I trimmed it down for the WW2 MF01X wheelbase - I (stupidly) used a hand drill (I don't have a drill press) to make the 2mm pin hole and snapped the bit off in the hole  it's off centre anyway - what a mess! I still have the Jimny shaft that isn't being used but I may go with an aluminium rod if I can source some materials at the local hobby store. 

I may also look at some wide hexes now that you mention them. I am so happy with the look of it at the moment but I noticed the front left tyre is very close to the chassis at full lock.

 

Oh, and your LandRover comment helped me find the 'body only' set for the FJ45 on Aliexpress! - a more appealing purchase than the full FJ45 kit - the chassis and electronics look pretty rubbish TBH. 

That looks great, and no worries.

I get my 5 mm rod from ebay, it's much much nicer drilling aluminium than steel - and you can tell yourself it's a hop-up. I would still suggest high quality cobalt drill bits regardless.

For my defender:

Space is a little tighter than I would like under the interior, so I plan to use the space under the hood to store the radio and ESC. The body has a hood that opens, so I can store access the radio and ESC on a try underneath, where the battery was originally meant to go. I can also install the on/off button under the hood, hiding it from view. I quite like the idea of popping the hood to turn on and off.

I’ve  also I can run the body mounts into the new electronics tray, which will hide the mounts. This also means that there’s no force from the mounts on the hood itself, which will hopefully mean it won’t spring open mid drive.  The second set of body posts will go into the rear of the vehicle’s interior, so be quite hidden.

I’ve also decided to 3D print a new suspension tower to allow more vertical front shocks, which will help with the look of the car. I will stick with a Torque tuned motor; now that will be far too fast for crawling, but I've got a big dust pitch near me which is really fun to blast on. I've realised instead of getting a weaker motor I can just limit the EPA on "crawler" mode to about 50% and then have another setting when I want to go fast. 

[Gebbly 760]

26 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

I quite like the idea of popping the hood to turn on and off

That would be a really cool tweak

[rc_ox 323]

15 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

That looks great, and no worries.

I get my 5 mm rod from ebay, it's much much nicer drilling aluminium than steel - and you can tell yourself it's a hop-up. I would still suggest high quality cobalt drill bits regardless.

For my defender:

Space is a little tighter than I would like under the interior, so I plan to use the space under the hood to store the radio and ESC. The body has a hood that opens, so I can store access the radio and ESC on a try underneath, where the battery was originally meant to go. I can also install the on/off button under the hood, hiding it from view. I quite like the idea of popping the hood to turn on and off.

I’ve  also I can run the body mounts into the new electronics tray, which will hide the mounts. This also means that there’s no force from the mounts on the hood itself, which will hopefully mean it won’t spring open mid drive.  The second set of body posts will go into the rear of the vehicle’s interior, so be quite hidden.

I’ve also decided to 3D print a new suspension tower to allow more vertical front shocks, which will help with the look of the car. I will stick with a Torque tuned motor; now that will be far too fast for crawling, but I've got a big dust pitch near me which is really fun to blast on. I've realised instead of getting a weaker motor I can just limit the EPA on "crawler" mode to about 50% and then have another setting when I want to go fast. 

Thank you for more good tips 

I dropped into the LBS yesterday, but they were all out of solid aluminium rod. I grabbed some aluminium tubing that was thick walled. Much easier to drill but I think would prefer the solid stuff for this prop shaft - I'll check eBay. I might use this tubing for the gearbox shafts. "hop-up"? 

I picked up a drill press device for my Dremel on the weekend (The Dremel RPM/torque is not ideal for drilling hard materials like a "real drill press", but I took it slow and applied machine oil as I pushed through another hole in the steel prop shaft – voila, it worked a treat! It will do the job until I can source some solid aluminium rod. 

I was quite surprised how stiff the shocks are - I'm using mini CVA's off my old TA02 but I think I have the friction shock springs installed (which are very stiff). I will definitely need to soften them up a lot more for light crawling duties. I am also thinking of some sort of shock mount at the front to get the dampers in a more upright position. I have a friend with a 3D printer - I may pull a favour or fab something in aluminium.  

I'll be keen to see your Defender build progress! 

[Nikko85 3767]

On 5/16/2023 at 3:18 AM, rc_ox said:

 

I'll be keen to see your Defender build progress! 

Mainly completed. I will take a shot of the chassis tomorrow. It's not a great crawler but a decent trail truck which can rip on dirt if needs be.

[Nikko85 3767]

Right, it's been a few months and I've updated my collection! 

New are the CR12 Monster Truck - this is a proline Chevy for the Stampede, which just happens to fit on the CR12/PUBG 4x4 given monster truck tires. I've upgrade all the gears to metal and thrown in a 20T 390 motor, upgraded from the stock 380. Lovely truck. It's got a 240 mm wheelbase and around 1:12.

Next up is a Land Rover D90 - on an MF01x chassis. The shell is a MN models D90 1:12 Land Rover. Really nice with a Torque Tuned, pretty fast but I can run a lower speed setting for more trail action.

GF01 crawler: 96 mm tires. Will pop a wheelie, but pretty good over the rough stuff. Double wishbone suspension means great ground clearance.

MF01x Desert Racer. 21T motor, TL01 arms for a wider track and more stability. FJ45 body. 

And a few of the rest (Pumpkin and Quick Drives)

A somewhat ridiculous collection, and probably don't need all of them, but cool to see them together.