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HonkSolo

Newbie needs advice for GF01 and nice remote control

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2 hours ago, HonkSolo said:

I see your points!

Whatever works for you - I guess with an RC car one gets away with this minimum, almost non-lubricated contacts.

That is a common misconception. Grease is worked out of the actual contact during the first operating hours. The excess grease then serves as sealing (in roller bearings) but still provides some reserve for lubricant replenishment. Churning losses (that's the technical term for 'more difficult turning gears') go down too. Also, this 'more difficult to move' is usually tried by rotating the gears without load (no torque being transfered) e.g. by hand. Then that's obvious - however, just put some torque on the gears and also non-lubricated gears will have more friction.

Also, never assume industry uses too much of anything!

They will always save whereever possible, be it only millicents.

 

Well, it seems you know more about the matter than we do. 

If you have already used up the kit grease, more can be ordered under part number 87025. Quite a number of eBay sellers have it available.

 

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Well, it seems you know more about the matter than we do.

I'm sorry I did not intend to sound like Mr. Smarty Pants in my previous post. It was written in a hurry ;-)

I do have a very long professional background in lubrication, friction and wear in machinery development, but my no means I assume that that is required for rc cars.

If you don't have any issues with wear and tear with the gears than that's nothing to worry about.

On the other hand I read the recommendation to use a steel pinion for the motor, so I automatically assumed there is some wear for the original Aluminum one and proper lubrication would be useful.

In any case many thanks for the grease part number - I already ordered it together with CVA shocks ;-)

I'm excited to continue building!

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I think the aluminium pinion is the only part in that geartrain to show excessive wear over time. No amount of grease is going to fix that. A steel pinion is.

Enjoy your build!

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1 hour ago, HonkSolo said:

On the other hand I read the recommendation to use a steel pinion for the motor, so I automatically assumed there is some wear for the original Aluminum one and proper lubrication would be useful.

The wear on the stock alum pinion is due to the extremely poor quality of alum used.

Few large scale industrial motor or engines (assuming that is what you do?) run at the same speed as smaller motors in RC cars. Also, I believe the parts being bigger, etc, thicker grease and oil can be used. For example, I suspect gear mashing for large gears will have a much bigger gap than the paper thin (literally) gaps we have for RC pinions.

Now, greasing everything up is probably not harmful, especially for a fun truck like the GF-01, it matters more for racers looking for that few ms advantage.

You mentioned earlier that grease will get squeezed out after some hours of running. Problem is that probably equates to one whole year of running that thing (depending on how often you run it of course!). I, for example, drive each of my car and average of max 10 hours a year each.

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A steel pinion is.

I checked and cannot easily find a 18 teeth Tamiya steel pinion?

Do you have a part number or link to an online store?

Thank you ;-)

 

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You mentioned earlier that grease will get squeezed out after some hours of running.

In 1:1 sized equipment, yes. In RC-cars with its high rotational speeds 10 to 20min of running should easily do.

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9 minutes ago, HonkSolo said:

I checked and cannot easily find a 18 teeth Tamiya steel pinion?

Do you have a part number or link to an online store?

Thank you ;-)

It's an 18T 0.6 module pinion. I used this one:

Carson Pinion Gear Module 0,6 steel, 18T (tamico.de)

But I don't know if that is available for you.
Another option is a Tamiya or aftermarket hard coated aluminium pinion. I think that is what racers use (strong and light).

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43 minutes ago, HonkSolo said:

Do you have a part number or link to an online store?

Look up the mod of the pinion you need, since you have mechanical background, you will know what a mod is.

https://tamiyabase.com/forum/11-technical/2969-list-of-cars-motor-pinions

Then search for the pinion you need on Google, eBay, AliExpress, etc...

"xxT yyM pinion".

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I’m a big fan for the gf01. Here is mine 

j71vJ8u.jpg

I use a NiMH and a flysky radio with a hot reedy radon motor. I love this car and it’s my go to these days 

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Our new GF01 is finished! Yay!

I finished the build last week and we went right outside to test it!

What a fun drive! I really think the 3000kV brushless motor is a great choice - it easily wheelies, but stays well controllable in general. Even driving on steep areas is no problem as long as one can keep the trigger from being pulled all the way ;-)

I've put on the unpainted body shell for now to protect the electronics - after 2 hours of driving the shell looks really worn and torn ;-) I guess I will still paint it!

My daughter also likes it a lot.

Many thanks for all your help and suggestions!!

PS: I was unable to keep the GF01 all stock, so my upgrades are all-sealed roller bearings, a 3000kV brushless motor and Mini CVA shocks (using the single hole pistons and large eyelets). We drive a lot on uneven ground (and also jumps etc.) and I cannot imagine the original shocks (pogo sticks) to cope with that well. For me that's a great combination and strongly recommended.

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Oh yeah the body gets trashed on the FJ 45. Get some shoe goo to help keep it together. I now have two bodies because they get so trashed. Lots of cracks but shoe goo mends them back together 

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