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Tamiya MB-01 Chassis

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6 minutes ago, Tobyone said:

Think I'm being optimistic thinking I'm going to get the chassis built to be honest, wife already has other ideas for using my time :( 

I am sure I could build that kit, including the body in less than a year.

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1 hour ago, Pylon80 said:

I am sure I could build that kit, including the body in less than a year.

Do you have a room you can lock yourself in? Lol

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23 minutes ago, Raman36 said:

Do you have a room you can lock yourself in? Lol

Even if I did, I would probably deep dive into custom mods and details until I turn a straightforward build into a 1 year full time project 😐

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I posted on Instagram just now the successful fitment of Tamiya’s Mini Cooper body on the MB01 with FWD setup.  

The front tires barely rub at full lock as the track width of the MB01 is quite wide.. but even at that ride height it is still drive-able so it is acceptable for me.  

I found that the MB01 in FWD rotates well.. begs for ball diffs.  :D   I’m running the factory friction dampers too.. just ball bearings as hop up.  I will need to mount Billy on the gearbox in order to fit as the steering linkage is quite tall.. 

I also show the 2 areas I chopped off the steering to gain a few more degrees in turnability..

#pretendRCshop 

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4 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

Seems that Popalong RC has been having issues with popping bits
 

 

I’ve had the same issue. I put a washer that is slightly bigger than the ball on and it’s not come out since!!

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Pieces popping off the Popalong MB01.

Nearly enough alliteration for a tongue twister :)

I’ve seen that happen on one guys TT02 in our stock class.

The popping thing will happen if the arm originally hasn’t had the ball inserted as per  instructions. It can stretch the plastics around that part of the arm, and sometimes deforms the ball.

The low friction ball can help this or a larger washer once the damage is done.


 


 

 

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8 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

Seems that Popalong RC has been having issues with popping bits
 

 

Never seen these guys before, what a scream. I have to say I agree 100% with his description. I’m no racer but just running around on the street I got the impression it wouldn’t be a racer. Have to say gyro makes it track straight though.

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As for the slop'n'pop mentioned in the video ... would this be about the same with an M-05 (mine isn't done yet, still in the bag)?

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1 hour ago, JimBear said:

As for the slop'n'pop mentioned in the video ... would this be about the same with an M-05 (mine isn't done yet, still in the bag)?

The M05 has plenty of slop, but the suspension arms will never pop bits. Very different if not better design.

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3 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Never seen these guys before, what a scream. I have to say I agree 100% with his description. I’m no racer but just running around on the street I got the impression it wouldn’t be a racer. Have to say gyro makes it track straight though.

If it can't track straight on a silver can and suspension bits pop out easily, I'd argue that it's not even a good runner let alone racer.

Probably looks good on the shelf though.

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25 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

If it can't track straight on a silver can and suspension bits pop out easily, I'd argue that it's not even a good runner let alone racer.

Probably looks good on the shelf though.

Should say I never tried it with the gyro turned off yet and it’s TT on 2s lipo!!

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I built mine with the TT02 low friction balls and they seem ok. I also had enough spares from M chassis and TT to change out the dog bones and axles to cvds / metal ones. I also shimmed it as I built it. so tracking straight is not an issue for me. Biggest issue is gearing. The 65/29 and torque tune, it just doesn’t have top end speed. I’ve worked out a way to change the gear.

1. XV01 spur gear holder. Bored it out to 5mm and had to deepen where the cross pin holds the spur gear holder. This is all so on the opposite output side the plastic drive cup locks on cross pin with the c clip. 
 

2. picked up 63T, 48 pitch gear, and with a 41t pinion which gives me and FDR of 4.00!  Not bad.  I tried quite a few variations but this one seemed to mesh the best.

issues: I’ve had a hard time drilling the  xV01 spur gear holder and making it balanced. I did 2 and they both have a wobble. Need a mill press to do it right.  
 

Not sure if the torque will like an FDR of 4.0. Will test it out today and see if it gets too warm. 

 

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43 minutes ago, Raman36 said:

Biggest issue is gearing. The 65/29 and torque tune, it just doesn’t have top end speed.

Im not sure if Ive asked this before, but how is it compared to a bone stock M06 (or earlier) chassis?

I can't help but think that the FDR isn't the only issue with its performance.

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6 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

Im not sure if Ive asked this before, but how is it compared to a bone stock M06 (or earlier) chassis?

The M-0# chassis have been becoming progressively more race-worthy, much like the TA and TB series have done, to the point that Tamiya have seen the need to release a lower tier, just as they did with the TT series to slot in below the TAs and TBs that have now advanced to respectable club racing grade.

And like with the touring cars, where you'll get a better chassis going for a recent-ish TA or TB, even if it isn't the latest one, rather than a TT, I suspect that you'll get a better spec with a recent-ish M-0# rather than the MB-01.

That is not to say that I won't be getting one anyway as soon as they are released with a bodyshell I want. I rather like the challenge of taking a basic car and making it perform well. I enjoyed this process with my TTs, and I think the journey with the MB-01 will provide similar satisfaction. 

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47 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

That is not to say that I won't be getting one anyway as soon as they are released with a bodyshell I want. I rather like the challenge of taking a basic car and making it perform well. I enjoyed this process with my TTs, and I think the journey with the MB-01 will provide similar satisfaction. 

It's the acceleration/top speed that I'm curious about, since the drivetrain looks a little more complicated than an M05 or M06.

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M06 vs MB01, at present my M06 would destroy my MB01 on the track. I’ve had a lot of time to see what works and doesn’t on M06.  MB01 is still very new to me.  Im taking both tomorrow to see how the MB01 performs on a prepped track. I spent the afternoon changing it over to a brushless 21.5 so that it will be a similar set up to my M06.  

 

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That much play in parts is unacceptable.

Tamiya engineers need some proper lessons in ISO fits.

Also some classes in tolerance stacking.

 

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On 9/30/2023 at 10:04 PM, cobalt said:

That much play in parts is unacceptable.

Tamiya engineers need some proper lessons in ISO fits.

Also some classes in tolerance stacking.

 

Actually even with the sloppy play the car drives quite well for an entry level car.. the thing I get reminded often with these m-chassis is that they run small diameter tires and even a little uneven surface can throw the car's track off course.  The wobbly mess actually reduces (blends? :ph34r:) the impact and keeps the trajectory in the correct general direction.   I mean Mini-Z MR EVO's are quite precise and that precision can sometimes work against them. 

If your MB01 tracks straight and turns well left and right with minimal bias, then I think it's considered okay..  I like my MX5, it actually drives quite nicely with the Super Mini CVA's.. I need to go back in my post, but I think I mentioned that I used one hole piston front and 2 hole piston rear.  Sweep wheels/tires and it's good enough for me especially at the $135 or whatever I paid.

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So is there only 1 shell for the MB01 so far? I've looked on tamiyausa and they say nothing about more body styles being released which is a bummer.

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1 hour ago, joshuaT said:

So is there only 1 shell for the MB01 so far? I've looked on tamiyausa and they say nothing about more body styles being released which is a bummer.

 

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So its been a couple of days cooling off my head from my unimpressive MB01 (#2) with the FWD setup.

I put a fresh Futaba receiver on it this morning and within like a minute crashed into the barrier (test drove with just the chassis) as my head was calibrated to my capable m-chassis in addition to being brain dead today from the covid vaccination side effect.

I decided I hate this car now. :D  I'm pulling all electronics off and tossing it in my parts bin so that my MX5 has spare parts in the future.   I'm going to concentrate on my M06 next.

The biggest part I hate about this car is the huge turn radius. 

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Wanted to do something other than box art. Just the engine and boot lid to fit once the paint has cured and a couple of decals left to make.

 

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