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skom25

DT-03 Racing Fighter

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31 minutes ago, skom25 said:

I want to try different oil in rear shocks. Can I just pour out old and use new without removing all parts?

Additional questions:

1. Do anyone know dimensions of CVA shocks orings? I will buy better and replace during rebuild in future.

2. Can I use e.g 9805917 instead of stock shafts?

 

I pour oil out, cycle and let it drain a bit before refilling, but that's all. But I'm no expert. 

There is a set which includes the red o-rings (meant to be much better than the black ones), some replacement shafts that take the pistons on the kit parts tree, and harder rear springs. Have a look at 9400414. If you want all or most of those things it's good value. 

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2 hours ago, skom25 said:

I want to try different oil in rear shocks. Can I just pour out old and use new without removing all parts?

I just leave the shocks standing upside down for a while to dump most of the oil out and refill. I am not a racer so a drop or two of old oil will not make any difference to me.

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Update:

I mounted carbon shock tower. Mainly to reduce play by using ball joints. It was not possible with stock part.

I changed oil in rear shocks from 1000 to 800. I had a feeling that with 1000 rear was little sluggish on gravel. 

Front shock spacers were replaced from medium to high. On rear I added one, medium. 

Surprisingly, oil in shocks was dirty. Not too much, but I did not expect this after 2h of run. Probably it is related to very dusty places I ran.

I also changed washer to bigger on the rear to protect a little more cracked place on tower.

IMG-20230321-192234774-HDR.jpg

IMG-20230321-192202639-HDR.jpg

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BTW:

After oil change I found that shocks does not rebound after being squeezed ( without spring). Why? It is the same in both. 

Should I worry?

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I heard that stock Racing Fighter rear tires will wear quite fast... I did not expect about 50% worn after 2.5 hours...

What do you recommend on gravel/ hard sand/ asphalt? I prefer Tamiya because of availability in my LHS.

 

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17 minutes ago, skom25 said:

I heard that stock Racing Fighter rear tires will wear quite fast... I did not expect about 50% worn after 2.5 hours...

What do you recommend on gravel/ hard sand/ asphalt? I prefer Tamiya because of availability in my LHS.

 

54185 Dual Block K tyres are probably your best bet

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After just few runs I decided that I will not go Offroad again. After only about 3-4 hours model is scratched and damaged quite hard. It is not fun to watch this, after so long and quite expensive build.

I tried to run on parking and... I fell in love. So much fun, compared to bashing on gravel. I routed short, 15-20 seconds course and ran it, trying to go faster and faster.

After that, I decided to clean model and stay away from Offroad.

IMG-20230325-174522130-HDR.jpg

Unfortunately, many parts were damaged. It looks worse than on photos.

IMG-20230327-125758017.jpg

IMG-20230327-125747030.jpg

IMG-20230327-125835647.jpg

IMG-20230327-125844678.jpg

Be aware that model is after cleaning and some cosmetic magic. "Raw" looks much worse.

Wheels. It seems that they came loose and suspension shaft rubbed inside. You can see also many dents etc. I will try to fix it...

IMG-20230327-125908979.jpg

IMG-20230327-125913406-HDR.jpg

Plans:

As you can see, I installed rear carbon shock tower. It was good choice, I like it much.

I ordered new tires, Block K, because stock rear spikes dissapeared after 1h on asphalt/ concrete.

Probably I will do second attempt to adjustable turnbuckles. I will install them only on front. I read many times, that gearbox can fail with them on rear. Have not decided yet if I will replace only wishbones or sterring rods too.

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32 minutes ago, skom25 said:

After just few runs I decided that I will not go Offroad again. After only about 3-4 hours model is scratched and damaged quite hard. It is not fun to watch this, after so long and quite expensive build.

I tried to run on parking and... I fell in love. So much fun, compared to bashing on gravel. I routed short, 15-20 seconds course and ran it, trying to go faster and faster.

After that, I decided to clean model and stay away from Offroad.

IMG-20230325-174522130-HDR.jpg

Unfortunately, many parts were damaged. It looks worse than on photos.

IMG-20230327-125758017.jpg

IMG-20230327-125747030.jpg

IMG-20230327-125835647.jpg

IMG-20230327-125844678.jpg

Be aware that model is after cleaning and some cosmetic magic. "Raw" looks much worse.

Wheels. It seems that they came loose and suspension shaft rubbed inside. You can see also many dents etc. I will try to fix it...

IMG-20230327-125908979.jpg

IMG-20230327-125913406-HDR.jpg

Plans:

As you can see, I installed rear carbon shock tower. It was good choice, I like it much.

I ordered new tires, Block K, because stock rear spikes dissapeared after 1h on asphalt/ concrete.

Probably I will do second attempt to adjustable turnbuckles. I will install them only on front. I read many times, that gearbox can fail with them on rear. Have not decided yet if I will replace only wishbones or sterring rods too.

I haven't experienced a failure due to turnbuckles. What is it, the single attachment point at the gearbox? I have had a gearbox case fail at the lower arms but I don't think turnbuckles contributed to this. 

I have also a mod to fit home made carbon fibre plate suspension mounts left to right across the gearbox, which takes the pressure of the lower mounts, but it's quite a bit of work. 

For me, I think the ability to adjust camber is important enough to make turnbuckles worthwhile. And buying the set I thought I might as well fit the steering tie rods for toe, although you can of course already adjust front toe to +/- 1 thread. 

P. S. Scratches and damage? Well, yeah, they're going to scratch every off road run. You should see the state of ours. They're not pretty but functionally they're fine. But then my rally chassis (XV-01) looks even worse. It's par for the course I'm afraid! 

 

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Thanks! I will think about rear for two reasons:

1. I do not have enough rod ends and ball joints for now

2. I do not want to remove gearbox

To be honest, I have real issue to remove sterring rods from ball joints. I do not have acces to servo saver and uprights are elastic and do not want to break them...

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1 hour ago, skom25 said:

After just few runs I decided that I will not go Offroad again. After only about 3-4 hours model is scratched and damaged quite hard. It is not fun to watch this, after so long and quite expensive build.

Even running on tarmac will cause scratches.

WQUztf8.jpeg

This is a road car after just its first run. It is far worse now after about 20 battery packs. Granted it is lower than a DT. The only way not to get much damage is to run indoors or on astro turf or something.

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I think regarding ball joints generally, I don't worry about them. The only one I have had become susceptible to coming off has been because it's crashed (I think one of my XV-01 top arms is now more likely to come off but it still isn't a regular occurrence so I've left it there). Over time you will probably build up spares of these anyway. I pop them off by over-rotating them with pliers. Yes it'll wear them out eventually but I think that'll take a long time. 

On scratches, here's my XV-01 now (5 months old but it started on the first run):

20230327_130124

As far as chassis bottoms are concerned, they're basically engaged in a contact sport, and a high contact one at that, being designed to hit the ground before shocks bottom out. 

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It was looong evening. I also changed bolts to stainless where it was possible.

IMG-20230327-223639817-HDR.jpg

I have to buy turnbuckles spanner. That from kit is total... you know the right word.

Only downside I see is decrease of stifness.

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14 hours ago, skom25 said:

After just few runs I decided that I will not go Offroad again. After only about 3-4 hours model is scratched and damaged quite hard. It is not fun to watch this, after so long and quite expensive build.

Scratched chassis/arms are typical wear and tear on an RC chassis (though monster trucks are an exception), its mostly cosmetic. The nice thing about your DT03 is that the screws look well protected so the heads won't get damaged.

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I am weak man... with too much free time :P

I decided that I will install rear adjustable turnbuckless too. I bought them some time ago but now with much more confidence and knowledge, I decided to install them. I also found good and fast method to prepare rod ends.

IMG-20230328-185638550-HDR.jpg

Maybe you will see it: I replaced screw with stainless shaft on wishbone/ gearbox. Length was perfect. I did not have to use any shims. Probably about 0.5 mm longer will be better, because now clips sit very tight.

I ordered Team Associated turnbuckle wrench from alluminium. It looks 10 times better than Tamiya.

Any tips with suspension adjustments? I read theory but any good starting point for DT-03?

BTW: I have not mentioned this, but during first run I... parked model in muddy water. It was not deep, reached to about half of wheels. When I detached gearbox from chassis, there was still some mud. I hope gearbox is sealed enough...

 

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Looks like you are coming along very well with your DT-03 modifications. I hope you are enjoying the process?

I haven't come across gearbox damage as a result of fitting turnbuckles, but I have come across gearboxes being rent asunder in collisions due to how both the gearbox and the chassis are split vertically, with only their respective screws and the two flimsy little plastic gearbox bridges tying them together. Tamiya make alloy versions of the gearbox bridges which are a lot tougher. Perhaps you could make something similar in carbon? Or just fit the Tamiya alloy ones - they typically don't cost a lot. The part number is 54566.

As for suspension adjustments, I typically replicate the stock fixed arms as a starting point and then see what increases or decreases in length do to the handling and if I like it or not.

Glad you enjoyed driving around a course on tarmac. I daresay that is how I enjoy most of my driving with my own DT-03 too. Fancy joining the next round of postal racing? Take a look here: 

 

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58 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Looks like you are coming along very well with your DT-03 modifications. I hope you are enjoying the process?

It is at least 50% of RC fun. It is real fun to find how things work, how to modify etc. Tamiya offer so many parts, that there is always something to improve. Today I bought fluoro coated ball nuts. They are super slick, I did not expect this.

58 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Tamiya make alloy versions of the gearbox bridges which are a lot tougher.

I bought them as a first Hop Up, together with Alu servo mount.

I think I am on quite high level with Hop Ups. I have few ideas more but I will do them during longer break ( next winter?)

To be honest, I have second DT-03 in spare parts. I do not know if I will build second one or leave for spares. Unfortunately, gears are not available, so at the moment I am not able to build second one anyway. We will see...

I bought reinforced parts:

tamiya-54816-dt-03-czesci-m-frp.jpg

It is funny, that those parts are about 30% cheaper than from regular plastic.

I have also lightweight gearbox shafts but I did not want to dissassembly gearbox to install them. I bought them because, again, were much cheaper than standard.

There are not too many Hop Ups I can install. Alloy battery holder ( do not see reason to buy), better shocks internals and ball diff. I read that ball diff requires much more maintenance and metal dog bones are not so good as can be expected. Of course, there are many aftermarket parts but I prefer to stay with Tamiya for now.

I found also one thing: dogbones and wheel axles are fibre reinforced in Racing Fighter. I bought spares from DT-02 and they are "standard" plastic.

Lol, that "Racing by post" sounds fun. If I find good spot, maybe I will try.

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One more thing! I cannot decide:

Black Star wheels or white Astral?

IMG-20230328-213909032.jpg

Tires question:

Should I use inserts on front?

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 I have fitted some of those reinforced parts in one or other of our DT-03s. To be honest though, in some cases I think the more flexible the plastic the better for shock absorption in a crash (eg those tower supports in your pic - the small parts that link the front shock tower to the chassis). When the front end weighs as little as it does, I'm inclined to think a lack of rigidity isn't really its shortcoming. The arms are soft too, but I've never broken one and again I'm inclined to think they're simply suitable for this car. We've had a lot of breaks, but they've pretty much all been shock towers and the chassis nose. 

One of the things CVDs and so steel outdrives can do is increase rear travel a little, but they also have longer life than the stock plastic dogbones and outdrives that do wear quickly.

I fitted the aluminum gearbox braces too, but only on one car and the other hasn't broken. Coincidentally, on the one with the aluminum braces a lower suspension mounting point to the gearbox did break, but I think it is pure coincidence, and the part had been fairly well used.

I haven't seen evidence of a gearbox letting water in and ours have seen plenty of water. But then it could've happened without me knowing and one hasn't been opened in an age. 

I haven't fitted a ball diff for same reason as you, even though I have one. I want this buggy to be low maintenance. But, I'd really like a sealed gear diff because tightening up the diff makes a huge difference to how it drives. As, by the way, does some rear toe-in, for which you'd need 3d printed parts as I think I mentioned earlier on this thread. Perhaps my favourite performance mod, or at least those two together are. 

1 hour ago, skom25 said:

One more thing! I cannot decide:

Black Star wheels or white Astral?

IMG-20230328-213909032.jpg

Tires question:

Should I use inserts on front?

For me, I doubt inserts make any difference on the front with stock tyres, it's just so light. With my mini spikes I've got them but I ran them without for some time and they were fine. I'm not sure they make much difference even now. I generally didn't bother with them with the stock rear tyres either, because I think they hold up ok with the harder compound they're made in, but other (better) tyres I think can justify them. I also only needed glue once I fitted both softer tyres and a hotter motor. 

Black or white wheels? Get both and change with your mood! 

I think your shell is one of the cooler DT-03s I've seen. Nice paint blend, creative wing, going your own way on the stickers and I really like that grey/blue. 👍👍

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1 hour ago, skom25 said:

Black Star wheels or white Astral?

There seems to be more black than white on the car, so I'd go for white wheels personally to offset the black a bit more. 

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4 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

I haven't seen evidence of a gearbox letting water in and ours have seen plenty of water. But then it could've happened without me knowing and one hasn't been opened in an age. 

I haven't fitted a ball diff for same reason as you, even though I have one. I want this buggy to be low maintenance. But, I'd really like a sealed gear diff because tightening up the diff makes a huge difference to how it drives. As, by the way, does some rear toe-in, for which you'd need 3d printed parts as I think I mentioned earlier on this thread. Perhaps my favourite performance mod, or at least those two together are.

The gearbox does not seal well where it is 'covered' by the skid plate; water has likely gotten in there. It is amazing how much stuff gets int here.

There are 3d printed rear hubs with an extra 3 degrees available on shapeways, from a member on here.  Also you could do DF03 rear arms & hubs.  It is all a matter of how far down the rabbit hole you want to go:

 

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6 hours ago, skom25 said:

One more thing! I cannot decide:

Black Star wheels or white Astral?

IMG-20230328-213909032.jpg

Tires question:

Should I use inserts on front?

Black in the back, white in the front. Make it look like a cousin to my Sand Frogger.

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3 hours ago, SlideWRX said:

 

There are 3d printed rear hubs with an extra 3 degrees available on shapeways, from a member on here.  Also you could do DF03 rear arms & hubs.  It is all a matter of how far down the rabbit hole you want to go:

 

And it really is a deep rabbit hole! I went pretty far on my DT03 Aqroshot build and the  plumbed new depths on my DT-02 build.  Both very satisfying though.

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Thanks for all replies! I Very nice to read that all posts!

Currently I have 17T pinion with Torque Tuned motor and heat sink. I did not have problems with overheating but I run on temperature between 10- 17 C degrees.

Is it worth to switch to 19T? Will I loose much acceleration and raise temperature?

I decided to remove gearbox cover, to check what is inside after my muddy journey...

Well, this time I have luck. Little bit of dust around cover and only small amount of residue on that big gear ( sorry, do not know names). Inside gear is super clean.

IMG-20230329-072236299-HDR.jpg

IMG-20230329-072229950-HDR.jpg

I cleaned everything and will assembly after I decide which pinion I will fit.

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5 hours ago, SlideWRX said:

The gearbox does not seal well where it is 'covered' by the skid plate; water has likely gotten in there. It is amazing how much stuff gets int here.

There are 3d printed rear hubs with an extra 3 degrees available on shapeways, from a member on here.  Also you could do DF03 rear arms & hubs.  It is all a matter of how far down the rabbit hole you want to go:

 

I put a little jointing compound on the sealing surfaces on mine and it has been OK so far as far as stuff getting in the gearbox is concerned. My son's is stock though and hasn't been opened in a while. It'll be interesting to see what it's like in there. 

I have @ThunderDragonCy's rear hubs too. They are what I was referring to as making a big difference. 

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I changed pinion gear to 19T, because as I wrote, I will try stay on asphalt.

I do not know why, but adjusting suspension is really satisfying. 

IMG-20230329-200612970-HDR.jpg

I wanted to use black wheels from Racing Fighter, but I did not because:

1. Rear were really badly damaged

2. Front Astral are much wider ( 19 mm vs 25 mm) so Neo Fighter tires fit much better

I really recommend wrench you can see on photo. Adjusting suspension is pleasure. It fits very tight, so there is no chance to slip.

Time to read about angles and go for a ride tommorrow. 

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