Wild Willy 2

[Dan1891 165]

How about the Gearbox in Wild Willy 2. Is it any benefit to running it a while, before you upgrade the plastic bushings to ballbearing? Or do you swap them right out of the box?

[Dan1891 165]

How about the steering servo? Is this one from Savox good enough? Savox SG-0351.

SG-0351 Servo 4,1Kg 0,17s - Hobbyequipment

[bRIBEGuy 2194]

On 3/13/2023 at 9:57 AM, Dan1891 said:

How about the Gearbox in Wild Willy 2. Is it any benefit to running it a while, before you upgrade the plastic bushings to ballbearing? Or do you swap them right out of the box?

Swap in bearings from the start.  Better efficiency and durability... plus it saves you from having to do it later! 

 

On 3/13/2023 at 10:11 AM, Dan1891 said:

How about the steering servo? Is this one from Savox good enough? Savox SG-0351.

SG-0351 Servo 4,1Kg 0,17s - Hobbyequipment

Should be fine, but one with slightly better torque might be worth while if it's in the budget.  The Savox 0254MG or 0252MG are a much better servo with almost twice the torque for only a couple dollars more.

[Dan1891 165]

4 minutes ago, bRIBEGuy said:

Swap in bearings from the start.  Better efficiency and durability... plus it saves you from having to do it later! 

Thanks! I put in the bearings from start then!

[Dan1891 165]

7 minutes ago, bRIBEGuy said:

Should be fine, but one with slightly better torque might be worth while if it's in the budget.  The Savox 0254MG or 0252MG are a much better servo with almost twice the torque for only a couple dollars more.

Thnks again, but i'm a bit worried of the current draw of the servo, as i have read the included Tamiya ESC has a very weak BEC output of only 1.5A

[Willy iine 16869]

1 hour ago, Dan1891 said:

Thnks again, but i'm a bit worried of the current draw of the servo, as i have read the included Tamiya ESC has a very weak BEC output of only 1.5A

I can't see my servo very well in my assembled WW2, but I think I am running a Futaba 3010 servo..it's Futaba's basic high torque servo with bearings and current draw isn't significant.  (Futaba runs 25 teeth spline for servo horn)

Pretty slow and not strong, but it works fine with the basic kit ESC.  In my case is a TBLE02S.  My WW2 is actually over 20 yrs old and came with a mechanical speed controller, but swapped to the TBLE02S like 10 or so years ago.     Hope this helps.

 

SPEED:
0.16 sec/60°at 6.0V

TORQUE:
6.5 kgf/cm at 6.0V
90.3 ozf/in at 6.0V

[Dan1891 165]

22 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

I can't see my servo very well in my assembled WW2, but I think I am running a Futaba 3010 servo..it's Futaba's basic high torque servo with bearings and current draw isn't significant.  (Futaba runs 25 teeth spline for servo horn)

Pretty slow and not strong, but it works fine with the basic kit ESC.  In my case is a TBLE02S.  My WW2 is actually over 20 yrs old and came with a mechanical speed controller, but swapped to the TBLE02S like 10 or so years ago.     Hope this helps.

 

SPEED:
0.16 sec/60°at 6.0V

TORQUE:
6.5 kgf/cm at 6.0V
90.3 ozf/in at 6.0V

Thanks! If you run that servo with the included ESC, i can use servos up to 2A current!

 

[Willy iine 16869]

15 minutes ago, Dan1891 said:

Thanks! If you run that servo with the included ESC, i can use servos up to 2A current!

 

No problem.   The WW2 has a light front end so even a pretty weak servo like the 3010 will work just fine.  Even if you forced the steering to turn the large tires on dirt, I doubt the servo has enough draw to over power the BEC's limit.  

I know the TBLE02S's BEC has issues with my 25kg torque servo when pushed to the limit for too long.  

[Dan1891 165]

Now i have started to build my Wild Willy 2. I take it slow, i dont have to hurry i think.

But now i had a look on step 12 in manual, dampers. It say's "Attach F10 according to running surface condition"

What does that means? You have a choice to use F10 or not?

[Willy iine 16869]

22 minutes ago, Dan1891 said:

Now i have started to build my Wild Willy 2. I take it slow, i dont have to hurry i think.

But now i had a look on step 12 in manual, dampers. It say's "Attach F10 according to running surface condition"

What does that means? You have a choice to use F10 or not?

That is the height adjustment spring perch.  You can choose to use them for added ground clearance, or not use them for a lower ride on smoother surface.  You can also use different thickness to corner balance the car by adjusting height, but not really critical on a car like the WW2 unless you are specifically wanting the car to respond a certain way.  GL with the rest of your build.  

[Dan1891 165]

2 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

That is the height adjustment spring purch.  You can choose to use them for added ground clearance, or not use them for a lower ride on smoother surface.  You can also use different thickness to corner balance the car by adjusting height, but not really critical on a car like the WW2 unless you are specifically wanting the car to respond a certain way.  GL with the rest of your build.  

Thanks!! You explained it much better than the Tamiya manual!

[Willy iine 16869]

5 minutes ago, Dan1891 said:

Thanks!! You explained it much better than the Tamiya manual!

NP, I had a typo in my post, meant to type spring perch, not purch.  

[Dan1891 165]

I got interested in the more technical aspect of this build!

Why is the drive shaft not straight to the wheel (red line in my pic), but instead with some angle?

I guess its an benefit, but why?

 

[AshRC 212]

Might be an effort to make the wheelbase a little longer?

[Dan1891 165]

55 minutes ago, AshRC said:

Might be an effort to make the wheelbase a little longer?

 

Ahh, good point! Didnt think of that!

[Dan1891 165]

Slow progress here, but i have done the dampers and rear drive train (waiting for my steering servo, so i can't do much more right now)

But i have noticed that there is many "not used parts" in the kit. Can you use these for something else?

[Willy iine 16869]

41 minutes ago, Dan1891 said:

Slow progress here, but i have done the dampers and rear drive train (waiting for my steering servo, so i can't do much more right now)

But i have noticed that there is many "not used parts" in the kit. Can you use these for something else?

You can if you'd like, I have boxes of unused bits from the WR02 and GF01 chassis amongst others which someday I shall build a chassis or whatnot out of.. but no time right now.  

[Dan1891 165]

Today my steering servo arrived! So my build can continue.

As you can see it is a high quality china copy of the Futaba S3003, the price was 2.73 euro. 

But i have tested it, it runs smooth and nice, so think it will be usable at least.

[Dan1891 165]

More noob questions

The servo saver seems to have a large amount of play up and down, red in my pic.

It isn't tight at all. Is that as it should be?

[Willy iine 16869]

Are you missing a plastic collar?   The factory servo saver does have some amount of play, but should not move up and down too much.

[Dan1891 165]

1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

Are you missing a plastic collar?   The factory servo saver does have some amount of play, but should not move up and down too much.

Thanks! I think it is the play you describe then, it doesnt really Moves up and down, just a bit of play in that direction.

[Willy iine 16869]

4 hours ago, Dan1891 said:

Thanks! I think it is the play you describe then, it doesnt really Moves up and down, just a bit of play in that direction.

Yeah, give it a try and if it has a hard time returning to center, you can try other servo savers.  I can't remember whether it was a direct drop in on the WW2, but my WR02 and GF01 all run Tamiya's high torque servo savers. 

[Dan1891 165]

More questions!

Step 14 in the manual says adjust uprights to be parallel. But at this step in the build there is no way to do that without go back and take things apart again?

 

 

[Willy iine 16869]

5 hours ago, Dan1891 said:

More questions!

Step 14 in the manual says adjust uprights to be parallel. But at this step in the build there is no way to do that without go back and take things apart again?

Is your servo at least centered?  Did you turn on your servo to center before installing the servo saver?  

As for the steering rods, without turnbuckles you will need to unlatch one of the cup joints (per side) to extend or shorten the rod length.  Hope this helps.  

[Dan1891 165]

14 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Is your servo at least centered?  Did you turn on your servo to center before installing the servo saver?  

As for the steering rods, without turnbuckles you will need to unlatch one of the cup joints (per side) to extend or shorten the rod length.  Hope this helps.  

Thnks! yes, the servo is centered as good i could do it

Is it hard to pop off the cup joints?