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Posted

I had to limit the shock length to avoid that… :( Though I did put cc-02 wheels/tires.. which may not be something you are looking for.

Posted

Yes, the angle of the rear dogbone in particular can be problematic. If you swap to CVA Super Minis you need to use internal spacers to reduce the angle of the arms to stop them popping out. I also found that I used o rings on the outdrives but not the axles, otherwise there was some binding, but I’ll double check.

Once you get the angle right they are fine, I’m not sure if the stock shocks cause an issue, I think it’s just that even the super minis are too long.

Interestingly, what I’m not sure about is if the unequal droop issue is even an issue, given that you need to reduce the amount of droop anyhow, so perhaps we are fixing an issue that is then nullified anyhow.

I should say once I put the internal spacers in I’ve had zero issues at all.

It is annoying that the angle is quite reduced, which limits ground clearance, but for mine I’ve put on much larger tires which helps massively.

Posted

@alvinlwh would a shim between the bearing and axle work to push the shaft back toward the cup help any? It’d depend on what length is on the axle as it will shorted how much is there for the wheelnut. It’d certainly put more shaft toward the gearbox outdrive. 

Posted

I might have a set of them. I’ve a CC-01, WR-01 and a Wild Dagger sat in bits, I’m sure one has those on it,  I’ll look when I get home. 

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Posted

A proper fix for this would be fantastic, as as you've said, it's a real shame to loose that ground clearance. I wonder if 1 mm longer dogbones could help? I run 82 mm tires on mine to get around this.

JRii3Vq.jpg

snaESE3.jpg

Your other option might be to run TL01 arms and longer dog bones. I did this on my MF01x once and it worked well. You'd then need a smaller 12 mm hex and perhaps more offset tires, but it does help soften suspension and give much more clearance too.

Posted
9 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Will 53218 or 9804237 work better? They may solve the chassis side if they work but CVD will still be needed to fix the wheel side.

I havent tried, but by the look of it, it just is hardened version (more or less). I can see drive cup wearing out in regular version.

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Posted

Mf01x uses the same rear arms as the M05. The M05 version II  one piece arms use a set screw for droop adjustment. Might be possible to source a set of those.

Posted
On 3/3/2023 at 7:46 PM, alvinlwh said:

Just wondering, instead of using spacers inside the shock, this limiting available shock travel, will it not be better to just drop it to the lower ride height? That is what I had done at the moment, and it seem to work. This way I still get the full range of shock movement.

If it amounts to the same height then yes, that makes sense!

Posted
On 3/3/2023 at 2:08 PM, alvinlwh said:

No, the dogbones are simply too short for the angle, shoving it towards the chassis will mean it pops out at the wheel end. Even CVA pops out and there is no way to shim that one. It is drive caps that are the problem. Now if it is possible to shim them out, it could solve the problem.

XV01 uses slightly longer wheel axles at rear, maybe it'd be possible to shim them closer to the diff?

Posted
6 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Sigh, throwing money at a problem that shouldn't be there in the first place is just not on. I expect better from Tamiya,

 Throwing money on a problem is the way of Tamiya 😄

I think this is just consequence of hubs being originaly developed for M05Ra. They didn't need to work in the rear

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