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[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Kowalski86 4078]

21 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I think you are meaning to say the Tamiya Style?

I actually have that book, now just need to find the throwing money at their problem section!

Haven't read it myself, but I've heard that the RC section is a bit short if that indicates anything.

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Honza 1117]

I think I found a solution. You can increase droop at low config by cutting part of the arm (C19). The arm now drops exactly to the limit of the shaft (although this is on my "special" MF, it should work in the similar way on the stock one, too).

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[droidy 91]

I found a cost-effective solution for the rear dogbones, after trying several non-cost-effective non-solutions:

1x 3racing SAK-M4P15A rear swing shaft 34mm for 3racing Sakura m pro.

1x 3racing SAK-40B 3racing universal shaft roller for 3racing Sakura zero. (Tamiya and YR universal cross joints are *slightly* too big for the 3racing swing shafts!)

1x Tamiya 54623 M-Chassis Wheel Axle W/Axle Ring. (Or steal the axles off you Tamiya/YR universals).

(For rally suspension with 53155 dampers with one internal o-ring and the short shock ends.)

I've been collecting parts for a long time for a metallic pink G320 Barbie wagon. I think I got the last two pairs of pink 53155 low friction dampers from PJ last year, and I built them with one black o-ring inside to reduce the length.

The whole rear suspension getup was terrible as noted elsewhere and the shocks were way too long on top of the dogbone problem. I also tried to use 30mm YR universals front and rear without realising the rear should be 33mm.

So I was very disappointed, got inspired by threads here and Matteo's YouTube video, and bought the expensive YR suspension upgrade set to fix it Once And For All. It didn't...

The set came with 30mm front and 33mm rear universals, so I realised my earlier 30mm mistake. But I installed it all and while the geometry was excellent the rear UJs still popped out almost immediately at full droop!!   It was fine to drive around with loaded shocks but the occasional clicking and scratching and binding sounded very bad.

I looked everywhere for 34mm swing shafts, and Tamiya and YR have many varieties, but 33mm is the longest of the short ones. Then I found the 3racing swing shafts from RCmart by searching for 34mm.

I was very excited when they arrived but then my cross joints didn't fit through the new swing shafts! I found some 3racing cross joints (locally for a few bucks), waited a bit longer, and it worked! (Careful filing or sand paper might work if you're desperate to use Tamiya/YR.)

Even better, I installed them just now (with one black o-ring *and* one pink urethane sponge in the drive cups) and it works. I can sit the chassis on its little perch at full droop, rev it up and down and all around, it's silky smooth and nothing comes close to popping out. Lovely 

Before. Frame from a video where the drive cup itself pops out and loses drive because the swing shaft isn't long enough to keep it in, and the shaft grinds on the upright:

After. Looks out, but the top pin is still engaged at full extension:

Victory!

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Honza 1117]

On 3/10/2023 at 4:41 PM, alvinlwh said:

I will take a look after dinner. 

have you tried my solution?

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Honza 1117]

With arms in the bottom hole? You wrote earlier that it doesn't fall out at the lower right height settings.

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Honza 1117]

4 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Arms in the bottom holes = lower ride height right?

Exactly

4 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Basically what you do will get me somewhere between high and low ride height right?

It should end up in the high ride height, as long as you have long enough shocks - but now the shaft will be parallel to the arm, so it won't fall out. One minor disadvantage is, that the rear is a few millimeters narrower at the maximum ride height (but that's what keeps the driveshaft from falling out)

You can combine low arm position with high tie-rod position for some camber gain.

If you cut the arm carefully, you can return to the original solution by swapping the left and right arm if the mod doesn't work out.

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Baja500 94]

A Tamiya design flaw? Purchased the Escort mf-01x some time ago with hop-ups for a build! Guess I should sell it,  get rid of it then. What a waste of time and money

[Kowalski86 4078]

3 hours ago, Baja500 said:

Guess I should sell it,  get rid of it then. What a waste of time and money 😤

You should go out and drive it, it's not a "waste" if you like your Escort.

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Honza 1117]

2 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

. I "solved" this problem by building it to the low suspension setting and use TC sized rally tyres to make up for the lost ride height. 

 

The other solution didn't work?

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Baja500 94]

6 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

You should go out and drive it, it's not a "waste" if you like your Escort.

I like the Escort 👍 yet reading that the drive shaft pops out all the time is not a good vibe for a build 

[Baja500 94]

6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Up to you really. If you look at the worse build experience thread, you will find the MF-01X mentioned a few times. I "solved" this problem by building it to the low suspension setting and use TC sized rally tyres to make up for the lost ride height. 

You have a link for these TC sized rally tires thanks?

[Baja500 94]

Did you shim up the driveline to limit any play with the shafts? Have you tried the Tamiya Double Cardan Joint shaft #42300? Not cheap though...

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Baja500 94]

3 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

They are the Fastrax rally blocks, used by many members here for the budget rally challenge build.

No, any shimming will cause binding by pushing the drive cups too close together. Basically the dogbones + drive cups are simply not suitable for the movement range for the higher setting. Those joints* are over 1/3 the price of the kit, which defeat the purpose of a budget build challenge.

Bottom line is, this chassis does not work as intended out of box even when built to the instructions. Shimming, hopups, whatever, is for improving something that already works, but this a case of it just don't work as advertised.

*As I had mentioned in the beginning, I have some M chassis CVD spare and those does not work. 

Thanks alot for all your info mate...and for sharing the thread, interesting read up. This is my 1st ever rc rally car kit. I owned a Ford Escort as my 1st car bitd. So it's sentimental to keep this kit. I will build it stock standard out of the box with the lower setting, hopefully the fast trax tires will be the same size as on this Escort, as these are small wheels. Much appreciated info again thanks, saved me getting frustrated...using some hopups for no reason, will sell them, get some cash back 👍

 

[alvinlwh 7066]

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[Baja500 94]

Thanks again with your links with helpful info mate. I've decided to sell my mf-01x Escort kit and parts, then buy a rally xv01 chassis...and buy the Escort coupe body instead to go with👍 I must have 1 rally Escort rally rc car 🙂

Escort mk6...nice 👍Yes in my teenage yrs, I owned a Ford Escort sedan 2.0 souped up,  my 1st car after i got my drivers licence, it was a beast to drive, lots of fun!!  It wasn't an Escort RS2000 (pictured below) but mine use to go hard on the street. Good days