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[ChrisRx718]

This does seem like a tough build. Do you regret not getting the RTR version?! Or are you relishing the challenge?

[alvinlwh]

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[OnTheTrail]

Nice build thread!   Lots of parts in a crawler.  (Next kit, try the TRX-4 kit with 2-Speed and remote locking diffs! )

Question, is this the way they have you assemble the drag link where it attaches to the steering knuckle?   

[Busdriver]

11 hours ago, OnTheTrail said:

Nice build thread!   Lots of parts in a crawler.  (Next kit, try the TRX-4 kit with 2-Speed and remote locking diffs! )

Question, is this the way they have you assemble the drag link where it attaches to the steering knuckle?   

+ 1 for the TRX. You’ll find everything just fits like a glove. No fettleing or adjusting. I had similar problems with my GMade Gom  with holes in drive shafts either not drilled, not aligned etc. Suppose that’s where Traxxas(😈) and Tamiya ( 😇) score so highly when it comes to fit and quality of hardware. IMHhumbleO.

[alvinlwh]

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[Pylon80]

On 3/8/2023 at 5:51 PM, alvinlwh said:

I will have to order some other prop shafts as I cannot trust these anymore

You seem to have had a bad experience with Loctite, is that right? Have you tried using Loctite 243, the 'newer' version that is supposed to work on grease/oil contaminated threads?

[alvinlwh]

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[OnTheTrail]

The only reason I ask, is the longer the drag link attachment point is away from the knuckle arm mounting hole, the more stress that puts on the plastic there.   Crawlers are known for breaking stuff when you have a powerful servo and the tires get wedged between some rocks.   As long as there aren't any clearance issues and the drag link can be extended a little to make up the slight increase in needed length, If this were mine, I'd remove that center spacer ball.   

The reason it's there is to help the geometry and reduce bump steer.   Bump steer is usually not an issue on a crawler.   That said, if you plan to only drive this on trails or through the lawn, then I shouldn't be an issue.  

[Pylon80]

On 3/9/2023 at 4:45 AM, alvinlwh said:

After destroying a kit screw, I tried some M3 screw pins I have. They will not go in fully either.

Ok, I see this now. From the pictures it looks like the holes are not lining up correctly (manufacturing defect?). A solution would be to re-tap the threads. The key will be to be tapping the opposite hole with the tap already inserted through the first hole - only way to make things line up. That would require a taper tap first then finishing of with a regular one. Word of caution: these tiny 3mm taps are extremely fragile and require a lot of caution especially when working through steel. A broken tap inside the works is not a lot of fun.

[Mad Ax]

2 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

 

@Mad Ax, I believe you have one of this? Do you find it strange that the hole for the slipper adjustment is just left open? Did you seal it up with something?

No, I'm afraid I don't have one - I've driven alongside a few on the trails but not owned one myself.  I didn't know the slipper adjustment hole is open, most other brands have a plastic or rubber bung to cover it.  You could cover it with something if you're going to get it muddy, although water will probably get in around the cover if you're planning on submerging it.  (Driving completely underwater is a genuine thing in the crawler world, if you have waterproof electricals  )

[alvinlwh]

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[OnTheTrail]

25 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

 

Exactly. My LRP buggy has such a cover. I guess I will tape over it.

Take a look at 3M Blenderm.   The stuff is amazing for us hobbyist.  It's a surgical/medical tape but it's very stick, and very pliable.   Practically sticks to everything.   Also waterproof if you get a good seal on the surface.  I keep a roll of it in every RC tool kit I have.  Been using it for control surface hinges on foam airplanes for years.   I call it "modelers duct tape".

(also good in the workshop for when you drop the Exacto onto your bare foot......don't ask me how I know.....  )

[alvinlwh]

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[ChrisRx718]

9 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I took the chassis out for a test drive last week and it got me wondering about this. What is the point of putting in effort for detailed scale (and perhaps realistic) accessories?

Let me explain myself, I painted the optional bumpers, shackles (correct word?) and tow bar. Then they all scratched on rubbing the first rock or rolling over. I don't see the mirrors or snorkel lasting very well, and any additional accessories will probably get ripped off in no time. 

Of course there is the option of not rolling over in the first place...😉

In my opinion it's how you intend to use it. I like the super-scale look for taking some images, the fact that it's a functional RC is almost secondary 

It goes really slow as a result, like a fast walking pace flat-out, but with stacks of torque to get over stuff.

Rock Crawling over actual stuff where it can take a tumble would mean using a lexan body with few bits which can break off. Look at the Axial RTR stuff for example, or Traxxas. Tough, forgiving bodyshells with very few fragile details.

Luckily the hobby caters for both preferences and everything in-between 

[alvinlwh]

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[Mad Ax]

20 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I took the chassis out for a test drive last week and it got me wondering about this. What is the point of putting in effort for detailed scale (and perhaps realistic) accessories?

Let me explain myself, I painted the optional bumpers, shackles (correct word?) and tow bar. Then they all scratched on rubbing the first rock or rolling over. I don't see the mirrors or snorkel lasting very well, and any additional accessories will probably get ripped off in no time. 

That's a totally valid question, and really depends on how far you want to go with it.  If you painted the shackles (are they plastic?) then the paint will probably come off.  Most of my rigs have aftermarket shackles that are painted with a tough red enamel, which lasts much better, and because they're metal, when the paint comes off they are metal underneath, just like you'd expect from a real-world shackle.

I watch a lot of off-road stuff on Youtube (I was a big fan of Dirt Everyday before it got cancelled), it's totally normal for a hard-used 1:1 off road rig to be well battered, so if your 1:10 rig picks up the same amount of damage, that's no big deal.

Of course, stuff does get broken or fall off on the trails, and it's a learning curve to figure out what works best.  Mirrors, for example, can be fitted a la Mad Mike's Mirror Mod: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKKpM37Wkzs&ab_channel=MadMikeWorthington

Scale parts can be fitted under a metal roof rack, with a cargo net to hold it in place, and it'll survive pretty well.  You may want to ziptie stuff down as well, as losing things on trails is common - really depends on how you want the stuff to be.  FWIW, while some of our rigs can have more accessories than a Barbie car, we don't usually get all the bits out and lay them on the ground for a scale picnic half-way through an expedition (although I expect there are people out there who do that too!)

A snorkel will take some punishment if you're squeezing the rig through narrow rock crevices, but it's surprising how much they'll endure, especially if they're fitted well.

My rigs are absolutely not shelfers, they all look properly battered, but it's rare that I lose or break anything, and IMO they all look better for it  

[ad456]

@Mad Ax and @ChrisRx718 have summed this up very well.

 Try take it up to Happy Valley,  the Ring of Brodgar or Binscarth and see what you think then dude, the places you’ve been aren’t really going to let the truck shine, they are more Monster Truck territory I feel. They are too open with obstacles spaced around, fine for testing setups though.

If the truck rolls or gets dings and scratches, consider it detail opposed to damage echoing above comments, in time it will look more real once it’s been used a bit. 

As for accessories, pick and choose wisely and you may manage to get a robust set that looks good and lasts some extremely harsh moments. 

All of this may not be worded brilliantly as I’m getting my little dude ready for nursery