My first crawler, Carisma SCA-1E Range Rover

[ChrisRx718 4470]

This does seem like a tough build. Do you regret not getting the RTR version?! Or are you relishing the challenge?

[alvinlwh 5895]

48 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

This does seem like a tough build. Do you regret not getting the RTR version?! Or are you relishing the challenge?

Never ..ready...to...repair version!

I am a builder, had been building static models for 4 decades. RTR is like a die cast static model to me, pay and be done with. While this is a challenging build, my wife (she actually paid for this one) likes it as it is good return for money. Return in the sense of how much time I "waste" on it. The more time I "waste", the less time I can go and look for the next kit to spend my money on.

[alvinlwh 5895]

Ok, screws and nuts not here yet so I just got the electrons in to give it a test. Lengthen the motor wires for easier wires routing.just about long enough wires on the servo to reach the RX.

What did arrived is a bag of metal servo arms so I swapped the stock plastic one out.

Also, the lock wire arrived, so if the nuts and bolts don't work, I can still bodge something up.

[alvinlwh 5895]

OMG! The prop shafts are an absolute PITA to connect to the gearbox. I got some M2.5 X 16 screws that arrived today, however the nut will catch on the gearbox, so it is a no go.

Back to the M3 then. Since it is meant for a screw pin(?) The opposite hole will not fit a M3 through screw, so I drilled it open with a 3mm drill. Nope, will not work. Then I tried a 3.5mm to open it more. Still no! However with the bigger hole, it became clear that the hole opposite the threaded hole is off, causing any through screw to catch. So I have no choice but to use a M3 X 10 screw and that will not go through to the opposite hole. Grrr....

[alvinlwh 5895]

So first, a picture of the M3 X 10 screw holding the prop.

Not ideal but it seems to work. Now the rear axle is on and the chassis is ready for popping it's shoes on.

Building it's shoes, my first beadlock wheels. Top is a done one and bottom are the parts that make up a wheel.

And all 4 shoes done.

Now it is ready to roll!

The range of suspension movement is great.

Took it out for a test drive. Never once got stuck in my messy garden. Even my rally cars or monster truck cannot manage that.

[OnTheTrail 1152]

Nice build thread!   Lots of parts in a crawler.  (Next kit, try the TRX-4 kit with 2-Speed and remote locking diffs! )

Question, is this the way they have you assemble the drag link where it attaches to the steering knuckle?   

[Busdriver 6209]

11 hours ago, OnTheTrail said:

Nice build thread!   Lots of parts in a crawler.  (Next kit, try the TRX-4 kit with 2-Speed and remote locking diffs! )

Question, is this the way they have you assemble the drag link where it attaches to the steering knuckle?   

+ 1 for the TRX. You’ll find everything just fits like a glove. No fettleing or adjusting. I had similar problems with my GMade Gom  with holes in drive shafts either not drilled, not aligned etc. Suppose that’s where Traxxas(😈) and Tamiya ( 😇) score so highly when it comes to fit and quality of hardware. IMHhumbleO.

[alvinlwh 5895]

11 hours ago, OnTheTrail said:

Question, is this the way they have you assemble the drag link where it attaches to the steering knuckle?   

Not sure the reason behind your question but then I am new to crawler so I just followed the instructions below.

@Mad Ax, I believe you have one of this? Do you find it strange that the hole for the slipper adjustment is just left open? Did you seal it up with something?

[Pylon80 2629]

On 3/8/2023 at 5:51 PM, alvinlwh said:

I will have to order some other prop shafts as I cannot trust these anymore

You seem to have had a bad experience with Loctite, is that right? Have you tried using Loctite 243, the 'newer' version that is supposed to work on grease/oil contaminated threads?

[alvinlwh 5895]

10 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

You seem to have had a bad experience with Loctite, is that right? Have you tried using Loctite 243, the 'newer' version that is supposed to work on grease/oil contaminated threads?

No problem with threadlock, not here anyway. It is not a problem of screws stay in but screws not getting in correctly in the first place. The standard screw is 14mm, but will not go all the way through as the opposite hole is not in line with the entry hole. I ended up using 10mm one with threadlock. 3 out of 4 holes on those props are not lined up correctly.

[OnTheTrail 1152]

The only reason I ask, is the longer the drag link attachment point is away from the knuckle arm mounting hole, the more stress that puts on the plastic there.   Crawlers are known for breaking stuff when you have a powerful servo and the tires get wedged between some rocks.   As long as there aren't any clearance issues and the drag link can be extended a little to make up the slight increase in needed length, If this were mine, I'd remove that center spacer ball.   

The reason it's there is to help the geometry and reduce bump steer.   Bump steer is usually not an issue on a crawler.   That said, if you plan to only drive this on trails or through the lawn, then I shouldn't be an issue.  

[Pylon80 2629]

On 3/9/2023 at 4:45 AM, alvinlwh said:

After destroying a kit screw, I tried some M3 screw pins I have. They will not go in fully either.

Ok, I see this now. From the pictures it looks like the holes are not lining up correctly (manufacturing defect?). A solution would be to re-tap the threads. The key will be to be tapping the opposite hole with the tap already inserted through the first hole - only way to make things line up. That would require a taper tap first then finishing of with a regular one. Word of caution: these tiny 3mm taps are extremely fragile and require a lot of caution especially when working through steel. A broken tap inside the works is not a lot of fun.

[Mad Ax 9313]

2 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

 

@Mad Ax, I believe you have one of this? Do you find it strange that the hole for the slipper adjustment is just left open? Did you seal it up with something?

No, I'm afraid I don't have one - I've driven alongside a few on the trails but not owned one myself.  I didn't know the slipper adjustment hole is open, most other brands have a plastic or rubber bung to cover it.  You could cover it with something if you're going to get it muddy, although water will probably get in around the cover if you're planning on submerging it.  (Driving completely underwater is a genuine thing in the crawler world, if you have waterproof electricals  )

[alvinlwh 5895]

6 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

Driving completely underwater is a genuine thing in the crawler world

Whole reason for buying this, to drive across rivers (stream more like! 🤣).

7 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

most other brands have a plastic or rubber bung to cover

Exactly. My LRP buggy has such a cover. I guess I will tape over it.

[alvinlwh 5895]

17 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

Ok, I see this now. From the pictures it looks like the holes are not lining up correctly (manufacturing defect?). A solution would be to re-tap the threads. The key will be to be tapping the opposite hole with the tap already inserted through the first hole - only way to make things line up. That would require a taper tap first then finishing of with a regular one. Word of caution: these tiny 3mm taps are extremely fragile and require a lot of caution especially when working through steel. A broken tap inside the works is not a lot of fun.

No, the opposite hole is well off (for a screw). It is not visible in its original state, but I had opened it to 3.5mm (over the original 2.5mm) and it is still not letting the screw through, although it makes the misalignment more obvious. Think the entry hole is at 12 o'clock position while the opposite is at 7 o'clock position kind of off, although not that extreme.

Also taping (if leaving everything original) will not work as it uses that kind of screw without threads except at the end/head, like screw pins? So the output shaft from the gearbox is 2.5mm, and that will need taping to M3 as well. What I ended up doing was opening the exit hole to 3.5mm (didn't work) and the output shaft from the gearbox to 3.5mm and just used a shorter screw. There maybe more play (0.5mm) but it is impossible to undrill a drilled hole now.

[OnTheTrail 1152]

25 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

 

Exactly. My LRP buggy has such a cover. I guess I will tape over it.

Take a look at 3M Blenderm.   The stuff is amazing for us hobbyist.  It's a surgical/medical tape but it's very stick, and very pliable.   Practically sticks to everything.   Also waterproof if you get a good seal on the surface.  I keep a roll of it in every RC tool kit I have.  Been using it for control surface hinges on foam airplanes for years.   I call it "modelers duct tape".

(also good in the workshop for when you drop the Exacto onto your bare foot......don't ask me how I know.....  )

[alvinlwh 5895]

So the saga of ill fitting continue even with the body shell. The holes are premarked so it will be ok to paint before drilling. However, the markings proved to be a good 2 or 3mm off! I ended up having to drill 8mm holes instead of 5mm holes to make it fit.and even that, it is by force.

Not only are the holes position off, they also did not supply enough screws for the wheel arch skirtings. I am short 9 screws and had to order some from eBay being a strange M2 size.

Anyway, I got the stickers on the body and they sucks. They react poorly to heat and packing instructions, I had to figure out where they go, and which first.

The bull bar is apparently a "deluxe" kit addition but was not called out for in the instructions. I decided to use them anyway since I already have them. Did installed some lights into the body. Will install fog lights to the bull bar when I get some more LEDs.

The rear body did not get lights as the lights shines through the body and the color stickers for the lights were so badly printed that the color just rubs off. So only lights on the rear bull bar.

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

Took it out for a test drive, at the moment is a chassis only drive. Cannot finish the body until more screws arrived.

[alvinlwh 5895]

On 3/16/2023 at 3:38 PM, OnTheTrail said:

The only reason I ask, is the longer the drag link attachment point is away from the knuckle arm mounting hole, the more stress that puts on the plastic there.   Crawlers are known for breaking stuff when you have a powerful servo and the tires get wedged between some rocks.   As long as there aren't any clearance issues and the drag link can be extended a little to make up the slight increase in needed length, If this were mine, I'd remove that center spacer ball.   

The reason it's there is to help the geometry and reduce bump steer.   Bump steer is usually not an issue on a crawler.   That said, if you plan to only drive this on trails or through the lawn, then I shouldn't be an issue.  

Thanks, lever effect, I get it. I will look into it although I do plan to upgrade this front part to metal.

[alvinlwh 5895]

Replacement screws from eBay arrived so I can finally finish off the body.

Will get some better picture in daylight.

[alvinlwh 5895]

On 3/6/2023 at 9:31 AM, Mad Ax said:

I hope you enjoy the crawler lifestyle, you can never stop adding more scale bits to them, they're never really finished, and you can make so many scale accessories yourself 

I took the chassis out for a test drive last week and it got me wondering about this. What is the point of putting in effort for detailed scale (and perhaps realistic) accessories?

Let me explain myself, I painted the optional bumpers, shackles (correct word?) and tow bar. Then they all scratched on rubbing the first rock or rolling over. I don't see the mirrors or snorkel lasting very well, and any additional accessories will probably get ripped off in no time. 

Of course there is the option of not rolling over in the first place...😉

[ChrisRx718 4470]

9 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I took the chassis out for a test drive last week and it got me wondering about this. What is the point of putting in effort for detailed scale (and perhaps realistic) accessories?

Let me explain myself, I painted the optional bumpers, shackles (correct word?) and tow bar. Then they all scratched on rubbing the first rock or rolling over. I don't see the mirrors or snorkel lasting very well, and any additional accessories will probably get ripped off in no time. 

Of course there is the option of not rolling over in the first place...😉

In my opinion it's how you intend to use it. I like the super-scale look for taking some images, the fact that it's a functional RC is almost secondary 

It goes really slow as a result, like a fast walking pace flat-out, but with stacks of torque to get over stuff.

Rock Crawling over actual stuff where it can take a tumble would mean using a lexan body with few bits which can break off. Look at the Axial RTR stuff for example, or Traxxas. Tough, forgiving bodyshells with very few fragile details.

Luckily the hobby caters for both preferences and everything in-between 

[alvinlwh 5895]

1 hour ago, ChrisRx718 said:

In my opinion it's how you intend to use it. I like the super-scale look for taking some images, the fact that it's a functional RC is almost secondary 

A shelf queen in other words. A very expensive shelf queen. Got to be careful here least I offend someone again.

But seriously, I will think this will be mostly used as a trial track rather than a rock crawler. Wanted something that will go over almost anything and cross rivers (streams more like!). Not not so sure about that Sawback, but the leaf springs does interest me...

[Mad Ax 9313]

20 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I took the chassis out for a test drive last week and it got me wondering about this. What is the point of putting in effort for detailed scale (and perhaps realistic) accessories?

Let me explain myself, I painted the optional bumpers, shackles (correct word?) and tow bar. Then they all scratched on rubbing the first rock or rolling over. I don't see the mirrors or snorkel lasting very well, and any additional accessories will probably get ripped off in no time. 

That's a totally valid question, and really depends on how far you want to go with it.  If you painted the shackles (are they plastic?) then the paint will probably come off.  Most of my rigs have aftermarket shackles that are painted with a tough red enamel, which lasts much better, and because they're metal, when the paint comes off they are metal underneath, just like you'd expect from a real-world shackle.

I watch a lot of off-road stuff on Youtube (I was a big fan of Dirt Everyday before it got cancelled), it's totally normal for a hard-used 1:1 off road rig to be well battered, so if your 1:10 rig picks up the same amount of damage, that's no big deal.

Of course, stuff does get broken or fall off on the trails, and it's a learning curve to figure out what works best.  Mirrors, for example, can be fitted a la Mad Mike's Mirror Mod: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKKpM37Wkzs&ab_channel=MadMikeWorthington

Scale parts can be fitted under a metal roof rack, with a cargo net to hold it in place, and it'll survive pretty well.  You may want to ziptie stuff down as well, as losing things on trails is common - really depends on how you want the stuff to be.  FWIW, while some of our rigs can have more accessories than a Barbie car, we don't usually get all the bits out and lay them on the ground for a scale picnic half-way through an expedition (although I expect there are people out there who do that too!)

A snorkel will take some punishment if you're squeezing the rig through narrow rock crevices, but it's surprising how much they'll endure, especially if they're fitted well.

My rigs are absolutely not shelfers, they all look properly battered, but it's rare that I lose or break anything, and IMO they all look better for it  

[ad456 331]

@Mad Ax and @ChrisRx718 have summed this up very well.

 Try take it up to Happy Valley,  the Ring of Brodgar or Binscarth and see what you think then dude, the places you’ve been aren’t really going to let the truck shine, they are more Monster Truck territory I feel. They are too open with obstacles spaced around, fine for testing setups though.

If the truck rolls or gets dings and scratches, consider it detail opposed to damage echoing above comments, in time it will look more real once it’s been used a bit. 

As for accessories, pick and choose wisely and you may manage to get a robust set that looks good and lasts some extremely harsh moments. 

All of this may not be worded brilliantly as I’m getting my little dude ready for nursery