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Kalamity

DB-01 ZAHHAK Runner or Shelfqueen?

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So, last week I bought a NIB Zahhak from a fellow member of the forum and now Im wondering if this car is a runner or it should remain a shelfqueen.

Im going to build it as I dont keep unbuilt kits, but I have no real idea about what to do with it.

I have been looking around and have not been able to find a lot of spares, and that makes me think that Im not going to be running the car a lot.

I despise ball diffs (out of lack of experience mainly) but ive seen that a fellow member has made a 3D gearbox to use oil diffs (which I like), but Im not sure I want to start doing mods.

What are your ideas? any advice on spares or compatible parts that could make it a runner? 

Thanks for the help!!

 

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Depends how hard you run your cars. It probably wouldn't be a good idea to race it, but fundamentally they are robust and super nice to drive. I had one a few years ago and ran it in parks and on track days (but never racing) and it was great. I think front arms are quite hard to get hold of now, but rear arms can use db01 arms you can still get. If you build the ball diff with care and with the proper grease it should be fine. Run a nice brushed motor so it's not dealing with loads of torque and it will be great. 

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9 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Depends how hard you run your cars. It probably wouldn't be a good idea to race it, but fundamentally they are robust and super nice to drive. I had one a few years ago and ran it in parks and on track days (but never racing) and it was great. I think front arms are quite hard to get hold of now, but rear arms can use db01 arms you can still get. If you build the ball diff with care and with the proper grease it should be fine. Run a nice brushed motor so it's not dealing with loads of torque and it will be great. 

Thanks a lot!! I dont race my buggies, and I have a DT03 for bashing that I like to abuse and crash into things, so if I run it the Zahhak would be pretty safe from harm.

Are TRF201 parts compatible with the DN01?

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I'd say run it, if you just drive it around and stick to drifting you should be fine for a long time. How careful you assemble it, maintenence, and how you store it play a big role in longevity.

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What I now do with my cars is usually start with a silver can, TT or around that power, try them out, safely, before deciding.

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9 hours ago, Kalamity said:

Thanks a lot!! I dont race my buggies, and I have a DT03 for bashing that I like to abuse and crash into things, so if I run it the Zahhak would be pretty safe from harm.

Are TRF201 parts compatible with the DN01?

Yes, the DN01 is identical to the trf201, just made in abs instead of reinforced plastic. 

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The parts you can't get easily if you break it are:

- Shock towers front and rear

- Front arms

- Steering parts (e.g bell cranks)

- Front top plate

If you did run it and break a front arm then TD2 arms might be a viable fit.

If run with a hot motor then it's worth fitting the slipper clutch which is still available.

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34 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

The parts you can't get easily if you break it are:

- Shock towers front and rear

- Front arms

- Steering parts (e.g bell cranks)

- Front top plate

If you did run it and break a front arm then TD2 arms might be a viable fit.

If run with a hot motor then it's worth fitting the slipper clutch which is still available.

as far as i can tell TD4/TD2 slipper clutch set is identical to DN-01/trf201 one.

i will confirm that next month, as i exeeded this month budget by a lot :P

Don't worry, my wife didn't throw me out to couch yet :P

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22 hours ago, fila1445 said:

as far as i can tell TD4/TD2 slipper clutch set is identical to DN-01/trf201 one.

I can confirm that the slipper clutch set 22031 is compatible with the TRF201. I used the slipper clutch set with the TRF201 gear case in my TRF201 Transmission Conversion Project .

And since the weekend I'm also an owner of a TRF201 :) 

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1 hour ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

I can confirm that the slipper clutch set 22031 is compatible with the TRF201. I used the slipper clutch set with the TRF201 gear case in my  TRF201 Transmission Conversion Project .

And since the weekend I'm also an owner of a TRF201 :) 

I think it would be a good idea to recreate some hard to come buy parts, i've recently bought the last L tree parts in europe i believe :/

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1 hour ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

And since the weekend I'm also an owner of a TRF201 :) 

Congrats! Maybe e have another lucky owner soon, @ruebiracer ; )

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7 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Yes, the DN01 is identical to the trf201, just made in abs instead of reinforced plastic. 

I thought it was glass reinforced PA instead of carbon reinforced, like TB03 and similar

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18 hours ago, Kalamity said:

So, last week I bought a NIB Zahhak from a fellow member of the forum and now Im wondering if this car is a runner or it should remain a shelfqueen.

Im going to build it as I dont keep unbuilt kits, but I have no real idea about what to do with it.

I have been looking around and have not been able to find a lot of spares, and that makes me think that Im not going to be running the car a lot.

I despise ball diffs (out of lack of experience mainly) but ive seen that a fellow member has made a 3D gearbox to use oil diffs (which I like), but Im not sure I want to start doing mods.

What are your ideas? any advice on spares or compatible parts that could make it a runner? 

Thanks for the help!!

 

If you crash and break an arm they are unobtanium and at that point you would probably glue it together and it would most surely be a shelf queen at that point.

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11 hours ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

I can confirm that the slipper clutch set 22031 is compatible with the TRF201. I used the slipper clutch set with the TRF201 gear case in my  TRF201 Transmission Conversion Project .

And since the weekend I'm also an owner of a TRF201 :) 

I checked  your post before I pulled the trigger on the Zahhak... great info and wonderful job! Thanks! and also congrats on the TRF!!

13 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

The parts you can't get easily if you break it are:

(...)

If you did run it and break a front arm then TD2 arms might be a viable fit.

If run with a hot motor then it's worth fitting the slipper clutch which is still available.

Thanks a lot for the list!

 

22 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

What I now do with my cars is usually start with a silver can, TT or around that power, try them out, safely, before deciding.

My plan was to run a sports tuned motor, nothing hotter

 

12 hours ago, fila1445 said:

as far as i can tell TD4/TD2 slipper clutch set is identical to DN-01/trf201 one.

i will confirm that next month, as i exeeded this month budget by a lot :P

Don't worry, my wife didn't throw me out to couch yet :P

Glad to hear you still have bed privileges! Good call on the clutch, I have on the way.

 

Thanks a lot for all the answers!! I will start working on it next week, really eager to start working on it, also we have summer like days predicted for next week so it might be a perfect opportunity to do some painting.

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16 hours ago, danimaldaisy said:

If you crash and break an arm they are unobtanium and at that point you would probably glue it together and it would most surely be a shelf queen at that point.

ive heard of some guys using Team Associated B6 front arms

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Id say you can run it carefully on a track,

In the Park absolutely no problem if you dont run into a tree, as they are made for hardcore racing with huge jumps.

but a tip from my experience with my asso rc10 b4 ft: dont ever go to the Skatepark. I jumped and slid with care, everything was fine and in Control, but then once on the Slippery surface i slid sideways into a wall on top of the halfpipe while braking. And that cracked the upper turnbuckle mount in the rear. RCing was over in that holiday. Luckily i have a big Box of spares in the cellar. 

B4 and zahhack/trf201 are very similar. Just spares are more scarce for the tamiya. 

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2 hours ago, GermanTA03Guy said:

...
B4 and zahhack/trf201 are very similar. Just spares are more scarce for the tamiya.

I had a look into the manual of the RC10B4 and to be honest I'm surprised/scared how much this buggy looks like the TRF201. Or more vice versa due to the TRF201 was released years later...

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3 hours ago, GermanTA03Guy said:

Id say you can run it carefully on a track,

In the Park absolutely no problem if you dont run into a tree, as they are made for hardcore racing with huge jumps.

but a tip from my experience with my asso rc10 b4 ft: dont ever go to the Skatepark. I jumped and slid with care, everything was fine and in Control, but then once on the Slippery surface i slid sideways into a wall on top of the halfpipe while braking. And that cracked the upper turnbuckle mount in the rear. RCing was over in that holiday. Luckily i have a big Box of spares in the cellar. 

B4 and zahhack/trf201 are very similar. Just spares are more scarce for the tamiya. 

Yeaaa dont take a B4/Tamiya Buggy to a skate park, thats what the Arrma’s and Traxxas’ are for haha

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7 hours ago, fila1445 said:

ive heard of some guys using Team Associated B6 front arms

B6.1 - b6.4?

if so ill build a zahhak from scratch.

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1 hour ago, danimaldaisy said:

B6.1 - b6.4?

if so ill build a zahhak from scratch.

Quite a few different variations of this out there. Worth checking out the TRF 2WD thread on rctech.net. I think I remember B5, Kyosho, and Yokomo arms and hubs being used. Most of these type of conversions were more orientated towards being able to run competition front wheels with a hex fitting.

Using TD2 bits would be easier I would think (but it wasn't available back then)

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50 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

Quite a few different variations of this out there. Worth checking out the TRF 2WD thread on rctech.net. I think I remember B5, Kyosho, and Yokomo arms and hubs being used. Most of these type of conversions were more orientated towards being able to run competition front wheels with a hex fitting.

Using TD2 bits would be easier I would think (but it wasn't available back then)

TD2 arms won't work without shock modifications because the suspension mounts are on the top of the arm fof the pushrod, not through the middle. Might be possible but won't be a straight swap. They also use 4wd style front knuckles for hex wheels, not the c hubs and axle like the trf201

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