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skom25

Plasma Edge II straight from box: Good or not?

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Hi,

I can buy Plasma Edge II Gun Metal for a good price. Nice thing is that body and apoiler are already cut and painted.

Question is simple: is that kit good straight from the box? Are there any Hop Ups which are neccessary to increase durability? Any weak points?

I saw many TT-02B build but all of them had maaaaany Hop Ups.

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The TT-02B is a fantastic basher, very nice kit. Since it already comes with CVA shocks and a steel pinion, the only must-have are ball bearings.

I've bashed mine a fair amount using a Super Stock BZ motor + NiMh. Haven't broken anything in two years but I do take care of my cars. I don't bash with a thirst for damage!

Hop-ups on the good-to-have list would be:

  • TT-02 Motor heatsink 54571. It will really help with keeping your motor in good shape for the long-run, especially if you live in hot weather.
  • High torque servo saver 51000 (black) or 50473 (white). More precise steering.

If you want more speed & performance:

  • Super Stock TZ (53696) or BZ (53930) motor for more brushed power. Or go brushless. Note the above-mentioned TT-02 heatsink only works with non-rebuildable motors like the stock silver can, torque tuned, sport tuned, etc.
  • Front & rear carbon damper stays 54754. The stock plastic shock towers have considerable flex, especially the rear has massive flex. The set also comes with turnbuckles front and rear that allow camber adjustability.
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@skom25 'Good' is pretty subjective, so you might get some wildly varied opinions, but @OoALEJOoO has summed it up quite nicely

I bought my nephew that exact same kit back when he was 11. I figured the pre-cut and painted body would save him a lot of hassle and he could focus on assembly, as he was already a Lego Jedi.

He absolutely loved it and ragged the bejesus out of it until he was 14, and nothing broke. Then, you know, girls, football....

I built one last year pretty much box--standard (plus bearings) for carefree bashing, and it's great fun. It hasn't got as much ground clearance as other buggies so has its limitations in terms of terrain but, for the money, I would have no issues in recommending that you go for it 👍

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Are ESC and Motor included? As always I found different informations...

 

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5 minutes ago, skom25 said:

Are ESC and Motor included? As always I found different informations...

 

As a rule, yes, but some retailers do remove ESCs sometimes. So it will depend on where you buy it from 

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1 minute ago, skom25 said:

Hmm, interesting. Amazon, so hard to say.

I would guess that yes, it would have an ESC coming from Amazon. Just a guess though, maybe 85% confidence...

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From my understanding, the only real problems with these are the low ground clearence and some owners have had rear spur gears get eaten up.

That being said it is an entry level kit so expect some slop.

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The gun metal version is still at 84€ at Tamico (like it was in the black month sale). This is with at TT and ESC. It should be hard to beat that price when you include shipping from the other side of the world. 

 

Actually I thought about buiing one of those for the kids, but when the price was dropped for an almost unused Terra Scorcher in the classifieds I got that instead. It's good to have a more uniform fleet, when it comes to parts. BTW the Dragons are a superb chassis. The Thunder Dragon and Fire Dragon comes in a litte higher in price than the Plasma Edge. They are also worh a concideration. 

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14 hours ago, skom25 said:

Question is simple: is that kit good straight from the box?

"Good" is very subjective. It is aimed at a similar market to that of your DT-03, with similar plastics, similar design philosophy and a similar amount of slop/play in the linkages and fittings. Did you enjoy the process of identifying and addressing these on your DT-03, and are you happy with the end result? If so, then yes, it is a good kit for you. 

14 hours ago, skom25 said:

Are there any Hop Ups which are neccessary to increase durability?Any weak points?

If you are driving on flat ground and sticking with the standard motor, then all you need are bearings. If you want to tackle jumps and/or add more power, you might want to upgrade at least the rear differential gears to metal as the plastic ones flex and lose teeth quite readily. Metal options exist for most of the other plastic drivetrain components too should you find the stock ones not up to the task. 

There are plenty of other upgrades available, but the majority of these are to reduce flex, tighten up the handling and provide more setup options. The standard rubbery plastic parts are far from precise and give limited adjustability, but they sure are durable!

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The cheapest way to upgrade to metal differential gears is to use the ones from the TT-01. The diffs are cross-compatible between TT-01 and TT-02. You'll need:

  • TT-01 G Parts (51004). Enough parts for 2 diffs.
  • TT-01 Metal Bevel Gears (51008). Enough parts for 1 diff.
  • 2x8mm Tapping Screws pack of x10 (50573). Each diff needs x3. These are very common and you might have them on your spares box.
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I only added ball bearings to mine and my son's.  They work great. 

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Replacing the internal diff gears with metal ones by using TT-01 parts as described by @OoALEJOoO is a worthwhile mod, as the stock plastic internal gears have been known to give way. However a more common problem is the plastic ring gear flexing, damaging its teeth and those on the diff input pinion.

Fortunately, the DF-02 comes with metal versions of these. The diff ring gear is a direct fit for the TT-01 diff internals as per @OoALEJOoO's post above, and the metal diff input pinion only needs a few mm filed off the back in order to fit too. I run basically a full DF-02 drivetrain in my TT-02B, and it has yet to skip a beat even under race conditions on 13.5 turn brushless and lipo power.

If you are having trouble getting hold of the DF-02 parts, GPM also make metal diff parts for the TT-02B, however while I have not tried these personally, I have read that they are considerably heavier than stock and sap the vehicle's performance as a result, so I would only consider these if they are accompanied by a significant motor upgrade.

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I have a couple of these and would just upgrade the bearings and run it to start with. Mine have seen various motors over the years and I wouldn't spend the money on most upgrades like centre shaft, universals, better shocks etc. 

The rear diff can be an issue but they're cheap. If you're running the kit motor stick with the stock gears and replace as required rather than use the DF02 gears. The DF02 gears will noticeably slow the car down and for the price you could get a lot of standard TT02 diffs.

If you upgrade the motor (13.5T brushless and 19T pinion is good) then the metal geared diff from the DF02 is well worth it.

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I also use the stock diffs on mine. They are dirt cheap and easy to replace so I didn’t bother upgrading. What I would recommend though is steel driveshafts because my friend and I both broke the stock plastic ones at the same spot

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Currently I have DT-03. It is quite fun to slide around and learn how to control car.

How it compares to 4WD? Will it go dead straight? If yes, I think I will loose much fun...

I think about Plasma Edge but if it will be so easy to control, it can be boring at some point.

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4 hours ago, skom25 said:

Currently I have DT-03. It is quite fun to slide around and learn how to control car.

How it compares to 4WD? Will it go dead straight? If yes, I think I will loose much fun...

I think about Plasma Edge but if it will be so easy to control, it can be boring at some point.

4WD Can suffer from torque steer, or with some models a NiMH will make one side weight more than the other, but generally 4WD will go straight and in a low/wide buggy it won't ever fight you.
RWD Is simpler so faster, more run time, constantly wants to fight you on acceleration and braking. You can "flick" the throttle on a RWD to get an e-brake effect too.

The biggest difference is both the predictability of 4WD, and generally 4WD will go through grass much better than any 2WD short of a monster truck.

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On 3/17/2023 at 11:52 PM, skom25 said:

Hi,

I can buy Plasma Edge II Gun Metal for a good price. Nice thing is that body and apoiler are already cut and painted.

Question is simple: is that kit good straight from the box? Are there any Hop Ups which are neccessary to increase durability? Any weak points?

I saw many TT-02B build but all of them had maaaaany Hop Ups.

I'll answer your question.  Keep in mind its my personal opinion about the buggy.  First ill start off about how it is stock and then talk about how to remedy it.

1. doesn't come with bearings. Get bearings. If you want ceramic bearings ONLY get them for the gear boxes as dirt will destroy them.

2. its way too low to the ground. Playing around with the dampers will not fix this. also the tires fully compressed make it even lower. you will chassis slap easily.

Now for the Fixes (I went the cheapest plasma edge route and did the upgrades below however you may want to just get the tt02bR kit as it has absolutely everything you need except tires. You can get tamiya dual blocks or ANY front/rear 4wd tire combo for an associated or losi-there are many brands)

So with this particular buggy no amount of playing around with the stock dampers will fix the front end. Get the tt02b/df03 damper set. build them per instructions EXCEPT put ZERO internal spacers inside the front damper and 2 in the rear. The kit calls for something totally stupid with 3 internal spacers in the front and 4 in the rear and building it like that it will be no better than the CVA plastic dampers.  (Don't get me wrong the CVA dampers are excellent however the front dampers fully extended are just way too short on this particular buggy).  adjust the top adjustable collar until it just snugs the spring. just snug enough so that it will not unseat under use. adjust the rear collar to match the height.  Put some dual block tires on those wheels that come with the kit.

Drop testing it you will be amazed at this point.

You will need some 5mm ball studs to get rid of the slop with the new dampers.  I suggest ONLY getting the brass type. They fit nice and tight. My experience with the blue anodized ball studs is that the tolerances are not the same and will not be tight and cause wiggle especially if you install turnbuckles it will be the sloppiest ever.

This is the absolute minimum in my opinion to get it to have decent height.

so about 100.00 US to do this. I do recommend the DF03 wheels. and that will run another 12 US. 

So as you can see it gets expensive fast and can easily outprice an associated B6 or a Losi 22 5.0

This is why I recommend the TT02BR kit.  It is 250ish US and just needs tires. you will need an ESC and I would just get a hobbywing 1060 for about 20US and use one of Trinitys Radon motors and call it a day

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/reedy/parts/motors/brushed/

Just as an example I bought a team losi 22 5.0 dc roller on sale for 259.00.  Yes it comes built and yes I do like building kits. However the roller on sale for 259 US vs the elite (only kit available right now) is 419 US. you just need tires and electronics.

again this is just an example.

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1 hour ago, danimaldaisy said:

I'll answer your question.  Keep in mind its my personal opinion about the buggy.  First ill start off about how it is stock and then talk about how to remedy it.

1. doesn't come with bearings. Get bearings. If you want ceramic bearings ONLY get them for the gear boxes as dirt will destroy them.

2. its way too low to the ground. Playing around with the dampers will not fix this. also the tires fully compressed make it even lower. you will chassis slap easily.

Never owned a TT-02B, but most of the people who I've seen mod them usually complain about the ride height and either go with bigger shocks or monster-ize it.

I'm curious to know how good it is at keeping rocks and dirt out of the chassis, since it's a low bathtub type and such.

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22 hours ago, skom25 said:

if it will be so easy to control, it can be boring at some point.

DT-03 and TT-02B are different but very complimentary and it's fun to have both.

2wd buggy can be frustrating on track (or a course you lay out) because you need to use brakes and weight transfer to make it turn well so it's very easy to oversteer. Some people say it will teach you to drive properly!

4wd buggy is lots of fun because you can focus on dodging and weaving through the corners.

If you're bashing around another advantage of 4wd is that it won't get stuck in grass and bumpy terrain as easily. It's quite easy to get 2wd stuck teetering on a protrusion with rear wheels off the ground or bogged down in longer grass.

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22 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

Never owned a TT-02B, but most of the people who I've seen mod them usually complain about the ride height and either go with bigger shocks or monster-ize it.

I'm curious to know how good it is at keeping rocks and dirt out of the chassis, since it's a low bathtub type and such.

TT02b is the plasma edge

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22 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

Never owned a TT-02B, but most of the people who I've seen mod them usually complain about the ride height and either go with bigger shocks or monster-ize it.

I'm curious to know how good it is at keeping rocks and dirt out of the chassis, since it's a low bathtub type and such.

Look at the TT02BR.  as I mentioned it comes with every hop up so you wont need to buy any hop ups

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1 hour ago, danimaldaisy said:

Look at the TT02BR.  as I mentioned it comes with every hop up so you wont need to buy any hop ups

Ahem….. wont need to buy any Hop-Ups….lol

:)

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Month ago I bought DT-03. Plan was to build stock as first model. Well, list of Hop Ups is veeery long...

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Bearings are a must, motor heatsink is a good investment because it can get hot even just running on flat ground.

As for the mentions of slim ground clearance: On the front you can use the longer suspension mount eyelets that come on the sprue for an increase in the front and If you, or someone you know, have access to a 3d printer you can print off longer suspension mount eyelets and slightly mod the rear lower suspension arms to gain a respectable amount of clearance in the rear for next to no cash investment.
(I thing the rear clearance might also be achieved using an M3 standoff in place of printing a longer eyelet but i havnt tried it)

On known weaknesses, ive seen multiple reports of the upwards strut on the rear uprights cracking relatively easily if one slides sideways and a rear wheel hits something solid like a rock or a curb, havnt had it happen to mine but also havnt driven in situations where it was likely to.

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