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So all of the totally honest youtubers have gotten their free SRX kits early and totally like them, I'm curious to know what everyone here thinks of the upcoming kit and the list of upgrades.

I'm...mixed myself, I don't mind the 02 variants, Im sorry to sound like a broken record but it does bug me that none of them come with the steering rack hop-up, not even this $252 kit. Nor can I simply slip some bearings into the stock part.

For the price I'd expect a body shell with unique stickers, something really flashy to go with all of the aluminum.

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56 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

For the price I'd expect a body shell with unique stickers, something really flashy to go with all of the aluminum.

The direction Tamiya has been taking is to make complete kits only with basic chassis, for the scale enthusiasts (TT-02, M05/06). It is best to view them as a body holder that can be run. They keep the race oriented chassis as chassis-only kits (TA, TB and M07/08). The added benefit of this philosophy is that they must make a massive amount of money off of hop-ups, since the basic kits are compelling candidates for hop-ups... and perhaps also these basic kits are often purchased by the unwary newcomers to the hobby ;)

The funny development with this is that a lot of clubs are using the M05 and TT-02 as a club racer due to its wide availability and some folks actually source chassis only kits of these from the many kit-splitters on marketplaces like eBay!!!

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I briefly considered one for the clubs shaft drive tub chassis class (formerly TT02 class) but having found the base TT02 so unreliable I went for a TB05R instead.  Was a few hundred (NZD) more, but with the TB05 I can buy the Exotek chassis conversion and it becomes as good as the carbon cars out there.  Any TT02 is still a TT02.


Oh and the TB05 comes with alloy steering!

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39 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

The direction Tamiya has been taking is to make complete kits only with basic chassis, for the scale enthusiasts (TT-02, M05/06). It is best to view them as a body holder that can be run. They keep the race oriented chassis as chassis-only kits (TA, TB and M07/08). The added benefit of this philosophy is that they must make a massive amount of money off of hop-ups, since the basic kits are compelling candidates for hop-ups... and perhaps also these basic kits are often purchased by the unwary newcomers to the hobby ;)

That's a good way to put the base chassis, "body holders", my stock TT-01s felt very cheap. Unfortunately some of the better 02 variants can be difficult to source.

16 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I briefly considered one for the clubs shaft drive tub chassis class (formerly TT02 class) but having found the base TT02 so unreliable I went for a TB05R instead. 

I thought TT-02s were supposed to be fairly sturdy chassis? Interesting how they went from TT02 to any shaft driven chassis.

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21 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

 

I thought TT-02s were supposed to be fairly sturdy chassis? Interesting how they went from TT02 to any shaft driven chassis.

They have some annoying issues on a track, especially when driven by kids or inexperienced people.  If you don't crash then you wouldn't know these are issues.

The front kingpins pull through.  That was an easy fix with some spare shock pistons to act as washers, but it ruined a few races before I clicked.

Front dogbones come out ALL THE TIME.  Some people had DNF for 2 out of 3 races because of this.  Universals are an easy fix, but they cost about 1/4 the kit price which doesn't really fit with budget racing.

Huge amount of play in the steering to the point it wouldn't track straight.  I suspect a basic S3003 type servo may be ok and the 10kg/.1sec servo may have been the problem?  I took a servo from my FF04 where it worked perfectly and put it in the TT02 and it just didn't go straight.  Alloy wheel hexes and Hi-torque servo saver helped a lot.  Alloy steering isn't allowed by the class rules (and I wouldn't spend the money on it)

They also have the usual broken hubs, arms etc which all cars have, but these had to use the kit torque tuned motor and still broke.  I run all stock type classes and race kits don't really break with slower 21.5T and 17.5T brushless (and they are still fast), its only really mod classes where cars have a lot of breakages.  When I gave my son a TA07 it was bulletproof running at the same speeds as his TT02 (but I can still break C hubs when I hit barriers with my 21.5T), the TA07 is just a much better car.  I expect the TB05 will be too as that uses the TRF420 parts (his may get retrofitted with TRF418 parts as I have loads of spares)

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5 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

They have some annoying issues on a track, especially when driven by kids or inexperienced people.  If you don't crash then you wouldn't know these are issues.

The front kingpins pull through.  That was an easy fix with some spare shock pistons to act as washers, but it ruined a few races before I clicked.

Front dogbones come out ALL THE TIME.  Some people had DNF for 2 out of 3 races because of this.  Universals are an easy fix, but they cost about 1/4 the kit price which doesn't really fit with budget racing.

Huge amount of play in the steering to the point it wouldn't track straight.  I suspect a basic S3003 type servo may be ok and the 10kg/.1sec servo may have been the problem?  I took a servo from my FF04 where it worked perfectly and put it in the TT02 and it just didn't go straight.  Alloy wheel hexes and Hi-torque servo saver helped a lot.  Alloy steering isn't allowed by the class rules (and I wouldn't spend the money on it)

They also have the usual broken hubs, arms etc which all cars have, but these had to use the kit torque tuned motor and still broke.  I run all stock type classes and race kits don't really break with slower 21.5T and 17.5T brushless (and they are still fast), its only really mod classes where cars have a lot of breakages.  When I gave my son a TA07 it was bulletproof running at the same speeds as his TT02 (but I can still break C hubs when I hit barriers with my 21.5T), the TA07 is just a much better car.  I expect the TB05 will be too as that uses the TRF420 parts (his may get retrofitted with TRF418 parts as I have loads of spares)

It stinks that you guys had so much trouble, did you consider running a TT-01E spec class like the Euro truck series?

I'll say this about the steering hop up, I used to think that the MIP diff for the ORV chassis was expensive...but at least it's not just a bit of aluminum and ball bearings.

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30 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

It stinks that you guys had so much trouble, did you consider running a TT-01E spec class like the Euro truck series?

I'll say this about the steering hop up, I used to think that the MIP diff for the ORV chassis was expensive...but at least it's not just a bit of aluminum and ball bearings.

The class was limited to TT02, they would let people run a TT01 if the gearing was the same though. I didn't want to buy a new car for that class though as it was a fun class for my son to run in. 

I didn't answer about moving away from TT02 to any plastic tub. I think there were a few reasons. The class was suffering as people found the cars unreliable. As it was a class designed for new people it was putting them off, and wasnt as cheap as they expected. There was also pressure from other distributors to allow their cars in (over here it seems that the distributors are also racers rather than just in it as a business), so Kyosho and HPI offerings are now allowed. Most people stuck with TT02, another guy who loves Tamiya found a TB04. Its shame the Express AT1S doesn't qualify as its a plate not tub chassis.

I found the MIP diff pricey but worthwhile as its been flawless since, and somehow seemed better value than the TT02 steering...

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3 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I briefly considered one for the clubs shaft drive tub chassis class (formerly TT02 class) but having found the base TT02 so unreliable I went for a TB05R instead.  Was a few hundred (NZD) more, but with the TB05 I can buy the Exotek chassis conversion and it becomes as good as the carbon cars out there.  Any TT02 is still a TT02.


Oh and the TB05 comes with alloy steering!

You can’t compare a base TT-02 to a Type S, SR or SRX because they are a different kind of beast. The Type S and SR use the TA05 IFS/TB EVO IV suspension while the SRX uses the TRF420 suspension. So the suspension breakages you mentioned do not apply to the Type S, SR, SRX cars. Here’s a photo of my Type S - as you can see, the suspension doesn’t share a single part with the base TT-02

C58339F6-29CB-4FBE-87DC-6BACE3C7AB8A.thumb.jpeg.d65d00afce44c6ed74b2a5e7545d4b03.jpeg

@Kowalski86 to be fair,  none of Tamiya’s R models (except the TB-05R) ever came with hop up aluminum steering sets. If I bought a Type SRX the only things I would buy are the long tie rod steering set and TRF dampers because it has pretty much everything you will ever need to go racing - TRF420 suspension, DCJ front driveshafts, rear universals, aluminum prop shaft, front spool, rear oil diff, hard lower deck, aluminum clamping hubs, serrated wheel nuts, FRP damper stays. 

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@Kowalski86 I said before, and it wasn't a popular opinion, a TT-02 is too old and is really overdue for an update. Yes, a base TT-02 is cheap but it comes with next to nothing and for similar money, I can get a S64 or T410 (or others) which offers much more. Yes, there are various versions of the 02 that up their levels, but for the same money (of say a SRX), you can get a much better car.

I don't race but I think if rules are changed to cost based (maybe a book price range on chassis allowed), Tamiya will be quickly discarded. Of course the administration of this will be impossible as keeping track of what is stock on various chassis will be a huge task.

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If I were to spend $250 on a proper toruing car, I'd skip the TB or the TT-02S/SR/SRX and go with the Xpress XQ2 for only $130.

00103656-xpress-xp-90032-000-1000x1000.jpeg

It's a fantastic car with sturdy parts and FRP main chassis/shock towers and floating servo mount. Then I'll spend the remaining $120 to some other hop-up parts like aluminum steering arms ($17 Xpress) , CF shock towers ($13 for front and rear Susumo), DCJ front ($25 Xpress), aluminum suspension mounts set front and rear ($60 Xpress), and a set of aluminum hex hubs.

If in case I go back to touring, I'd definitely skip Tamiya and go for Xpress. The XQ10R.

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

@Kowalski86 

I don't race but I think if rules are changed to cost based (maybe a book price range on chassis allowed), Tamiya will be quickly discarded. Of course the administration of this will be impossible as keeping track of what is stock on various chassis will be a huge task.

Oh I dunno, just look for the blue and you'll know what's stock and what's not!

 

5 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

The class was limited to TT02, they would let people run a TT01 if the gearing was the same though. I didn't want to buy a new car for that class though as it was a fun class for my son to run in. 

.I found the MIP diff pricey but worthwhile as its been flawless since, and somehow seemed better value than the TT02 steering...

Makes sense, I've read of others who've tried spec TT-02 only to have similar results. Lots of steering/dogbone issues stock that made navigating tracks difficult.

Yet another reason why spec-Lunchbox should be a series, if you can't go around an obstacle go over it!

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10 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

Oh I dunno, just look for the blue and you'll know what's stock and what's not!

I am meaning other makes, that statement is meant to be read along with the earlier suggestion of setting a price cap for chassis and not limiting to just brand.

Also, you do know that hopups that fit Tamiya are available in other color, including black, if you buy GPM or other brands.

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1 minute ago, alvinlwh said:

I am meaning other makes, that statement is meant to be read along with the earlier suggestion of setting a price cap for chassis and not limiting to just brand.

Right, I'm curious if $200 would be a sensible price cap. It's my own personal cap for modifying non-racing RCs and I do factor in the purchase price.

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5 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

Right, I'm curious if $200 would be a sensible price cap. It's my own personal cap for modifying non-racing RCs and I do factor in the purchase price.

I think a S64 can still be had for around £100. 3R hopups are also very cheap. Depending on your location, there are others. For example I got a T410 locally for £110 but that is a ARTR. And if you are into MTC, the 3R MG Evo is really cheap and far better than a M-05.

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TT02 classes have proven really popular. Most use the kit torque tuned motors. This pretty much makes the cars indestructible. The drive shaft issue is usually because people do no fit the steering arm limiter in the car, this couples up with the kit servo saver being very soft so on a hard hit, the steering angle becomes really large so the dogbone falls out. 

The steering not going straight is again down to the servo saver being a bit soft, if you build the car with a servo and don't use the correct servo height fitting the horn can gain quite a lot of friction. A very simple fix is to superglue the servo saver.. It will take out any slop and in the event of a large crash it will still work as the shock will break the bond with the glue. 
 

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13 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Any TT02 is still a TT02.

Hmm. I hope you don't mind if I respectfully disagree there, or at least put forward an alternative perspective?

In my view, the basic TT-02 chassis is not significantly better or worse than any other shaft drive plastic tub chassis out there in terms of layout, weight, stiffness, etc. The performance and longevity are as good or as bad as the suspension that is attached to it.

My TT-02 Type S features the same suspension as my TB-03, and consequently has almost identical performance, handling and ability to withstand crash damage.

If the SRX has the suspension of a TRF420, I would expect that it shows similar performance, handling and ability to resist crash damage as the TRF car, especially since it comes with the fiber reinforced hard chassis which is not far off in stiffness to a carbon deck, albeit with a bit of a weight penalty.

 

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Interesting thing is that for TCS TT-02 class, they don’t allow TT-02 type s variants(at least for novice class) I would assume because they perform much better than none type-s variant.

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4 minutes ago, Sogogi said:

Interesting thing is that for TCS TT-02 class, they don’t allow TT-02 type s variants(at least for novice class) I would assume because they perform much better than none type-s variant.

The same conclusion was reached by the committee of our local club. The Type S variants are welcome in the pro classes, but not in the entry level TT class that is open to other '01s and '02s. (They also allow TL-01's, but not TL-01LAs.)

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Out club run a TT02 rally spec night.

We allow:

- Front UJs (any brand) as we had too many DNFs due to loosing dog bones.

- You can replace the steering step screws with a part of your choice - some people use the Tamiya hopup step screws, others have used a big M3 bolt with a collar. We allowed this mod as once the cars had done 4-5 meetings it was impossible to get them to drive straight.

- Yeah Racing 55mm dampers, or Tamiya CVA's. We allow these as we were wearing out the downstops on the friction dampers

Other than that the cars must be a stock TT02 (no type S etc) with bearings and a Torque tuned motor. Speedo must be HobbyWing 1060 or Tamiya TBLE02/04. Control tyre is FastTrax rally blocks and the body shell must be a rally style shell.

We run on a slippy floor - the racing is fantastic. It only works as we've all got the same cars - full of slop, that cost less than £150 all in (excluding radio/reciever/lipo).

Other than cleaning dust off I don't have to do any prep to the car week to week - and it occurred to me the other day that I've not even taken the wheels off thing since I built it. Other than the TT01 I can't think of such a cheap and appropriate chassis for our purposes.

 

 

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42 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

Out club run a TT02 rally spec night.

We allow:

- Front UJs (any brand) as we had too many DNFs due to loosing dog bones.

- You can replace the steering step screws with a part of your choice - some people use the Tamiya hopup step screws, others have used a big M3 bolt with a collar. We allowed this mod as once the cars had done 4-5 meetings it was impossible to get them to drive straight.

- Yeah Racing 55mm dampers, or Tamiya CVA's. We allow these as we were wearing out the downstops on the friction dampers

Other than that the cars must be a stock TT02 (no type S etc) with bearings and a Torque tuned motor. Speedo must be HobbyWing 1060 or Tamiya TBLE02/04. Control tyre is FastTrax rally blocks and the body shell must be a rally style shell.

We run on a slippy floor - the racing is fantastic. It only works as we've all got the same cars - full of slop, that cost less than £150 all in (excluding radio/reciever/lipo).

Other than cleaning dust off I don't have to do any prep to the car week to week - and it occurred to me the other day that I've not even taken the wheels off thing since I built it. Other than the TT01 I can't think of such a cheap and appropriate chassis for our purposes.

 

 

This sounds awesome. 

Except for steering I think my budget rally build TT-02 complies. 

Interested to know what pinion you fit? 

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19 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

This sounds awesome. 

Except for steering I think my budget rally build TT-02 complies. 

Interested to know what pinion you fit? 

19 tooth I think - we do allow hardened ones as the cars get annoyingly loud when the soft ones start to wear out

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3 hours ago, qatmix said:

if you build the car with a servo and don't use the correct servo height fitting the horn can gain quite a lot of friction

Hey @qatmix could you expand on that? I have had trouble even with the high torque servo saver not always snapping back to neutral as of late and I have solved the issue by applying a bit of grease between every moving part of the servo saver. I too have super glued the stock one whenever I used it. Thanks.

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