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skom25

TT-02B Plasma Edge II

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On 6/22/2023 at 8:34 PM, DavidJH said:

The Tamiya ones seem to only come in silver

Silver are 6mm thick and this page has a handy list (not exhaustive) of their different sizes:

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/42352/index.htm

So you want Clamp Type Aluminum Wheel Hub (5mm Thick), Item No: 53823.

But yeah the Tamiya ones are really expensive but really good. The Yeah Racing ones are really good and reasonably priced. Every other cheap brand seems like junk unless you're very careful - either they don't clamp onto the axle at all, they don't fit into the wheels comfortably, or the tiny screws are made of cheese and snap off in the hex :angry:

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Update:

I am bit lost and left TT-02B some time ago. I am in love with my DT-03 which is simple, modification friendly etc.

To be honest, I do know what to do. There are two options:

1. Wait till summer end, buy more Hop Ups and build near Top version

2. Just finish it now and have some fun

What do you think?

I have some problems with wiring. At beginning I thought that there is a lot of space but in reality, it is very tight.

Being honest, I probably care too much about details and it kills whole joy of build.

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4 hours ago, skom25 said:

Update:

I am bit lost and left TT-02B some time ago. I am in love with my DT-03 which is simple, modification friendly etc.

To be honest, I do know what to do. There are two options:

1. Wait till summer end, buy more Hop Ups and build near Top version

2. Just finish it now and have some fun

What do you think?

Being honest, I probably care too much about details and it kills whole joy of build.

Just finish it now and have fun, and save up for your next build. I wouldn't buy any hop-ups before driving it quite a bit.

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Updates:

Sometimes after long time of no ideas and willingness to finish build, something changes and obvious solution appears.

Main issue was related to lack of space for wires. I like when everything is tidy but I was not able to do this, mainly because of huge servo. First idea was to buy low profile servo, but they are expensive. I decided to try to move servo forward, using 3 mm spacers.

IMG-20230803-071041163-HDR.jpg

I also bent lower motor terminal as manual says, so there is even little more space.

IMG-20230803-071032764-HDR.jpg

In that moment, I am able to use receiver box, which is great.

As you can see I switched to Sport Tuned motor. I also removed fan and used heat sink. It gives much more space. If temperature will be too high, I will think about fan again.

Have I installed heat sink correctly?

Photo with bigger and older brother. I love it. It is simple and fun to drive.

IMG-20230803-072208484-HDR.jpg

BTW: are there any buggy road specific tires? I have plan to use TT only on road.

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No on-road specific unfortunately. There's some aftermarket options but the cheap ones I've found to be rubbish (too soft / thin) and the more expensive ones are just too expensive... You have to factor in buying a set of 2.2 inch wheels too - cheap ones originally designed for the DF03 will fit and come in a few different colours - unfortunately not the dayglo yellow of your current wheels.

The DF-03 "Type K" dual block tyres are quite stiff and hard-wearing. I use these on road and they're holding up fine - avoid the more expensive "Type C" compound as they are much softer and I would guess they're not going to last long at all...

Rear Tyre: 54186
Front Tyre: 54187

Rear Wheel White: 53881
Front Wheel White: 53880

Front Wheel Pink: 47398
Rear Wheel Pink: 47399

Front Wheel Yellow: 0440290
Rear Wheel Yellow: 0440291

Front Wheel Black: 0440209
Rear Wheel Black: 0440210

 

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I have Dual Block K on DT-03 as well new for current build. 2WD buggy wears them quite fast to be honest. Of course only rear.

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36 minutes ago, skom25 said:

I have Dual Block K on DT-03 as well new for current build. 2WD buggy wears them quite fast to be honest. Of course only rear.

Yeah they're "better" than studded / spiked tyres but they still wear.

The best looking would be Street Rover Tyres, but I don't know what the rim diameter is that they fit on? Would be great to know - obviously the original Street Rover wheels themselves will be 2WD fitment (front bearing) so you would need two pairs of rear wheels... and I don't particularly like the 3-spoke design either.

tamiya-reifen-2-stk-street-rover-dyna-bl 

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2 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Street Rover Tyres, but I don't know what the rim diameter is that they fit on

Looks like they're meant for 62/40 tires, with rear buggy wheels being 62/35 (4wd large dish rear). They fit on the buggy wheels but don't quite look right to me.

I'd go with the dual block K and have fun wearing them out if it's to be Tamiya.

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5 hours ago, skom25 said:

I am able to use receiver box

I think the TT-02 receiver box is a major pain in the neck because it has four tiny screws into very hard plastic while you're trying to shove receiver wires in and not chop the antenna off on the way out. It's huge and horrible, so do a practice run without anything "permanent" like double sided tape and screws and cable ties and soldering before you commit to it.

Receiver on top of servo and ESC on receiver box area is convenient.

Sport tuned and heatsink looks good! You're very close to being done, maybe you can be tempted to go ahead and "waste" the spikey kit tires on tarmac for a bit of fun while you decide what to do?

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That is true. In DT-03 I found that cables have marks from edges. Probably I found solution, but we will see.

Of course I will go for a test run. In fact, I already did it to check all components.

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If neat wires bother you that much, just remove and replace all wires with new ones of exact length. Directly solder from ESC to motor. It is said that black wires are faster than anything else. The receiver wires can also be shortened and/or replaced with exact length ones.

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Easy to say, harder to do. I know but my skills are not on highest level. I can solder wires to the bedroom lamp but I am bit afraid to solder e.g. motor cables..

BUT

I have plan to try during winter. I have few motors, so why not to try and do things nice and clean during next build.

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Update:

Electronics installed. I have to find way, how to attach motor cables to receiver box. Of course, easiest way is to drill holes and use zip tie but I do not want to do this. I used one receiver box on DT-03, two (!) damaged by mistake and one installed on TT-02B. Yes, you are right. I bought three spare sprues just for receiver boxes. I just do not want to risk that I will damage another one....

If you check photos, you will find two things:

1. Few new blue parts

2. Lack of shocks

Pt 2 will be explained on next update.

Overview:

IMG-20230806-165213018-HDR.jpg

I want to attach cables like this. I have two ideas and probably around five which did not work...

IMG-20230806-165224462-HDR.jpg

Any suggestions?

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4 hours ago, skom25 said:

Electronics installed. I have to find way, how to attach motor cables to receiver box. Of course, easiest way is to drill holes and use zip tie but I do not want to do this. I used one receiver box on DT-03, two (!) damaged by mistake and one installed on TT-02B. Yes, you are right. I bought three spare sprues just for receiver boxes. I just do not want to risk that I will damage another one....

Most people don't use receiver boxes but just waterproof electronics. Save weight, save space, save time and headache. Even my crawler which I run underwater is 'unboxed'.

OifzV6T.jpeg

Nor with this brushless MT.

HmsdDEl.jpg

4 hours ago, skom25 said:

IMG-20230806-165224462-HDR.jpg

Any suggestions?

Use a cable tie with a catch (reusable cable tie?), run it under and around the box, tape on either sides of it with the opening section on top.

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It is not possible to use zip tie, because of tape under box. I have few ideas more.

I used it because it is easy to put cables inside and have everything tidy. Electronics are waterproof.

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An idea: the aluminium reinforced tape for bodies can look quite classy if you use it for cable routing with a nice big piece of tape.

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7 hours ago, skom25 said:

It is not possible to use zip tie, because of tape under box.

That is why I said put tapes to the sides of the tie so it can pass through like a belt.

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I agree with Alvin, just ditch the receiver box and mount the ESC where the receiver is. Then route the wires beside the motor. I wouldn’t bother fitting the 1060 inside a receiver box. Mine have seen mud and water and are still working perfectly

spacer.png

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Thank you for replies but I really want to have that box :D As I wrote, it helps to tidy cables. At least for me, it just looks good.

Update:

Shock installed.

IMG-20230809-202926396-HDR.jpg

IMG-20230809-202932532-HDR.jpg

Reason I bought them is quite simple: adjustment. 

There is not too much difference compared to my modified CVAs. They look much better but feel similar. 

To be honest if we sum up CVA cost + modified parts, those TT-02B shocks are not terrible expensive. Of course, CVA are in most cases added to kit, but when we compare cost of both sets, it is not bad idea to pay little more and get aluminium ones.

I do not like idea of "shelf queen" models, but I will try to not destroy model too much and use it in good conditions. I hope I will not run into water, rollover and hit curb on first run, as I did with DT-03. LOL.

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Update:

Wires attached. Maybe not perfect but acceptable.

IMG-20230811-185506793-HDR.jpg

I installed wheels and did quick test run in home.

IMG-20230811-185500302.jpg

Two observations:

- Sterring angle is poor. I had to set EPA to 70%.

- Acceleration is totally crazy compared to RWD DT-03.

I have to check front shocks, because one feels stiffer than opposite. Wheel nuts will be Tamiya blue, as on previous photos. I am not sure if I like those wheels, but I do not want to buy new.

Today started long weekend, so I will have four days to work on model. I hope I will do first proper run outside.

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Update:

- Antenna pipe installed

- Added spacer to wing mount

- Wing installed

- Battery holder attached

IMG-20230815-124142218.jpg

I used transparent sticker, to protect paint where wing touches mount.

IMG-20230815-130253539-HDR.jpg

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Update:

I decided to change wheels hexes to 6 mm and add 1 mm spacers between wheel and hex. Why? More distance between wheels will improve handling and hub axle will not protrude from wheel nut. It will look much better.

Once again I checked play on axles and went from 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm of shims on rear. Front stayed the same with 0.2 mm shims.

Tip:

If you want to reduce play on axles, you have to reduce it as much as possible without binding. Problem is, that when wheel is tightened, things compress a little and bearings can start to bind.

How to avoid that? Use shims to have some play on axle and then use nut with washer to tighten all elements, then check play. I used plastic washers and plastic plate with hole, to not scratch elements. Of course wheel can be used but you will not see axle and it will be much harder to find how many shims you still need.

Perfect situation is when wheel is tightened and there is just a bit of play on wheel. You can feel it by hands and hardly see.

IMG-20230819-075805085-HDR.jpg

I also fitted body. To be honest it is little woobly. It seems that it should rest on front shock tower but with carbon version, I think after one run paint will be damaged. Probably I will use foam tape to solve this issues.

IMG-20230819-083211715-HDR.jpg

In terms of decals, I will probably use less than more. Definitely will not use decals from kit.

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Update:

Wheels with spacers fitted. As you can see below, nut sits flush with hub axle. Perfect.

IMG-20230820-121917227-HDR.jpg

Decals added, but...

IMG-20230821-070438089-HDR.jpg

IMG-20230821-070428994-HDR.jpg

IMG-20230821-070327498-HDR.jpg

I am not sure if I like it. It looks heavy and I do not have idea how to break those lines. Strip on top helped a bit but there are still that wide side panels... Any ideas?

Inside I added only few stickers. On one side foam tape, to protect body from hitting chassis. It was not possible on opposite side, because chassis is wider ( receiver box) and body was on angle. I had to remove it and use transparent sticker. On body mount holes I used precut Tamiya protectors. Antenna hole has transparent sticker around. On side panel there is also sticker, to protect paint from motor cables. Just in case, because they do not touch body.

I am still not sure about wheels. I like design but even more I like dish wheels, but to be honest I saw few photos with dish wheels and they do not look good with Plasma Edge body. I am also not sure about colour. I like that they are totally different but on the other hand, I am bit conservative and probably prefer more white or black.

Hard decisions...

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Bonus photo with DT-03 which I really like, because it is simple and fun to drive.

IMG-20230821-095642263-HDR.jpg

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