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Superluminal

Kyosho Ultima SB Dirt Master and Schumacher Cougar Classic

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This is something a bit different for me and that will make a change from the TA02 based touring cars that ive been building pretty solidly for last year. I pre ordered the Dirtmaster as soon as it was revealed - id been keen on a new 2WD buggy kit to mess about with and was hoping to get one of the Genova ones last year but couldnt find an economical means of getting them to the UK so this will do nicely. I pre ordered it from SC models and noticed they had Schumacher Cougar in too so asked them to put one aside for me when the Kyosho was released - which several months later was Friday so collected them yesterday morning. Ive built a couple of the re-re legendary series Kyoshos so far so am expecting this to go together nicely. I also built a Scumacher CatXLS a couple of years ago so im expecting the Cougar to put up a fight at every step.

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First then the Kyosho and whats in the box.

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Few details, full ball bearings, alloy motor mount, oil filled gear diff (thankfully not balls) and slipper clutch as standard - similar pattern to the legendary series kits.

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Not just made in any old place....

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Not presented quite as nicely as the Legendary series kits with the cardboard inserts and blisters.

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Six parts bags and the chassis tub

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And the wheels, tyres, body and wing. Havent seen the tyre mouldings before - i had assumed they would be the ones of the Turbo Scorpion but they are different.

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Step 1 - bag one. This is almost all the plastic parts for the front end. The plastic feels very strong - i think its fibre reinforced everywhere and has a very unique sound to it as you screw in the fixings or bash the parts together. Almost like a porcelain feel.

This is the parts from bag 1;

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Step 1 - Front bulk

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The fixings are all hex head and have a black coating. The spacer washers that go under the ball stud are off the plastic sprues - these would most likely be aluminium on a Tamiya and heres where I hit a bit of confusion. The sprues dont have any moulded numbers on them. I cut out all the spacers screwed the ball studs in and realised they were different thicknesses. It showed it here in the manual but i hadnt spotted it when cutting them out.

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Completed front bulk;

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Step 2 - front suspension

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Step 3 attaching it to the front bulkhead from step 1.

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The part that holds the hinge pins together is steel

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And heres where i hit some more confusions. The gasket with the four holes is described as being 0.5mm. The sprue looks like this;

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The one on the left is 0.5mm thick and the one on the right 1mm thick. The one i need has two moulded wings either side (bodyfoooorrmmm for yoooouu) but these arent shown in the manual.

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So i cut these off with a scalpel - hopefully theyre not needed.

And screwed together.

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The fit and tolerance of the parts is brilliant. They almost click together like lego and the suspension arms move freely with zero lateral movement. Considering this requires no separate shims (comparing this arrangement to my TT02-Type S for instance which needed millions) im really impressed that this is achieved with plastic parts and the pins only. The other thing ive noticed is snipping the parts of the trees with this type of plastic results in a load of plastic shrapnel crumbs - will probably get around to hoovering them up off the carpet some time next year.

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Step 4 - servo saver. This is a completely different arrangement to the usual Tamiya style and uses two cam shaped pieces that compress a coil spring around an aluminium post. This is the same arrangement that goes back to the Scorpion and Tomahawk.

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The parts - what i hadnt realised is that the steering uses plastic bushes. They are noted in the manual as "plastic/metal", not sure what thats all about as they are definitely all plastic as you cut them off the parts tree. Now normally at this point spotting plastic bushes being used in a moving part i would have been slightly sick in my mouth and then straight on to RCbearings for some ball bearings. But as the quality of the plastic and moulding tolerances have been so good id thought i would give them the benefit of the doubt and cracked on.

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And assembled

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Next up is Bag 2 - more reinforced plastic

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The steering bridge is required from this in step 5.

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In this step threadlock is noted to screw the servo mount into the aluminium pivot posts. None is provided in the kit so used some left over red Tamiya gel.

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And the assembled steering parts. Its remarkably slop free so will see how it goes - i assume running the plastic bushes on the aluminium posts will eventually wear them so may get some bearings for the future.

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Step 6 - attach the front bulk, front suspension and steering to the chassis tub. Again everything clicks together nicely and feels very robust.

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Front end done, time for a break to eat the congealed chinese left overs from Thursday night. Its been in the microwave for over 8 mins so should be ok.

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Its been a couple of hours now and i havent got cold sweats and feel like im about to turn inside out so assume alls good.

Step 7 - front uprights and c-hubs

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spacer.png What i like about these is the pins are fitted into a blind hole then secured with a small screw with head clamping it in. Much easier than the e-clips Tamiya typically use on suspension shafts.

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Not so sure about the plastic hexes. Might change those to alloy clamping ones. Also theres a lot of use of the plastic spacers off the sprues - i had to check back in the manual a few times as its not obvious which ones go where.

Step 8 they are attached to the supension arms.

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Attached with pins and locking screws again

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Step 9 is turnbuckles. One of my least favourite bits of a build.

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Small blob of grease inside each really helps. Lost count of the chewed up ball ends and sore thumbs i had previously before reading that tip on here that should have been so obvious.

Step 10, fitted onto the ball studs and steering bridge.

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Its really solid! Moves freely but no slop at all. 

Step 11 is the front shock stay.

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The long screws are held onto the mount with some flange nuts. The black coating looks ok but im noticing it gets scratched off quite easily. Stainless screws would have been nicer i think.

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Fitted onto the front bulkhead with four tapping screws. Thats end of the front end and the next bag 3 has the gearbox parts in.

Really impressed by the sturdiness of it so far. Think its the first kit ive built that has been made of reinforced plastics and it makes a big difference. Inserting the screws, they never feel like you are at risk of stripping them. The only bit im not too sure about is all the plastic spacers - if id known in advance i might have ordered some aluminium ones instead but the kit ones seem to fit perfectly.

Will carry on again tomorrow.

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Day 2 - bag 3, the bits for the gear box

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Step 12 - gear diff

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The gears themselves are cast alloy and the shafts are steel. Its very similar to the Tamiya oil filled gear diff with the main gear sitting in an o-ring seal with a shim and cross pin to hold it in place.

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The gasket was a bit of a pain to hold in place as it seemed to get pinched but managed to clamp it down squarely in the end. I used a small dollop of Tamiya anti wear grease inside as the supplied grease is very light and i wanted something to tighten the diff up a bit.

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Step 13 and 14 - the two halves of the gearbox are fitted with some ball bearings and the diff, main drive shaft and idler gear.

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Its very small and compact.

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Step 15 - attaching the metal motor mounting plate with some long screws that pass the the gearbox. The manual recommends threadlock here but its in very close contact with the plastic. Having seen the results of threadlock degrading plastic i didnt fancy this so will just keep an eye on them.

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Step 16 is the slipper clutch.

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The plastic spring retainers took some finding. I assumed they were aluminium and couldnt find them. It was then i noticed the manual references bag 1 and bag 3 - they were plastic on a totally unrelated sprue from earlier in the build! You really take for granted parts on sprues being numbered on Tamiya kits.

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To tighten the nyloc nut the compresses the spring i had to lock the outdrives in place to stop them spinning around. 

Thats the gearbox finished.

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Bag 4 has the bits for the rear suspension arms and shock stay.

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Step 17 - rear bulk head which has the sockets to take the rear suspension shafts.

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Step 18 - rear motor support plate and the other part to take the suspension shafts.

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Im assuming other kits that use this as a base as theres some numbers printed on the bridge piece that sets the toe of the rear arms.

Step 19 the pins are inserted into the two parts with the rear arms.

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The stainless steel pins use a plastic pip shape thing that sits in the chassis. Not sure why when the hinge pins on the front sit in some holes sized to suit the pin.

Steps 20 and 21 are screwing the rear arms and gearbox to the chassis tub.

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Looking like a buggy now!

Step 22 is the rear motor guard. This was a bit annoying as you have to remove the screws that you previously put in to hold the rear of the suspension pins, then fit in a 0.5mm plastic shim and the guard into the gap while holding all the parts in place to rescrew together.

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Step 23 the rear damper stay and wing mount, pretty similar to the front.

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Step 24 fixes it to the chassis.

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Step 25 - more turn buckles, fortunately the last ones. These have longer ball cups than the front.

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Step 26 is the rear uprights. These use a steel shim instead of the plastic ones on the front but has the same hex arrangement.

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Ball bearings as standard.

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Step 27 attaches these to the suspension arms.

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The four plastic spacers i dont think are labelled correctly in the manual as there was only two left on the sprue it tells you to use. Fortunately these extras moulded into other parts trees.

Step 28 links them together with the chassis using the turnbuckles.

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Next up, bag 5 which includes the shock parts.

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Step 29 - this doesnt actually make any sense to me at the moment. 

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You have to screw in a plastic pip thing into the suspension arm.

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But nothing seems to be able to connect to it in place and the damper fixes to the front of the arm.

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Hmmmmmmm, anyway carrying on.

Step 30 - body mounts.

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And thats the chassis tub pretty much complete apart from the servo and dampers.

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Dampers next, step 31 to 33.

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The dampers cylinders and caps are plastic with threaded bodies and collars that will allow for adjustment of the spring tension.

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Unlike the dampers on the re re Optima and Scorpion series these have the pack of spacers and o-rings in the front with a separate screw on cap similar to the CVA damper.

The parts used between front and rear are a bit different and it took a bit of studying of the pictures to identify which bits went where as wasnt intuitive.

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The kit didnt come with any damper oil. The manual says to use 450 - 550 wt oil. I didnt have any of this specifically so used the Tamiya soft yellow oil of which I've got loads of left over - it seems to feel quite nice.

The shocks dont have a bladder. Instead the instructions say to install the top cap and compress the piston to discharge the excess oil out of a small hole in the cap. Nothing did come out though and to be honest i cant see how you could get enough oil in the cylinder to reach the hole even with the piston fully pressed in. I fitted the cap screws into the holes and fitted the springs. Done.

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Step 34 and 35 are fitting them to the chassis. Nothing complicated with this. The dampers are held on with more plastic spacers and some plastic nuts.

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And fitted. Aside from electrics and servo steering link chassis is done.

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Still none the wiser of what the point of step 29 was??!!??

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3 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Still none the wiser of what the point of step 29 was??!!??

Could it be for a future hop up of a rear anti roll bar? Nice build, quite fancy one of these. 

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11 minutes ago, Grotty Otty said:

Could it be for a future hop up of a rear anti roll bar? Nice build, quite fancy one of these. 

Oh yeah thats not a bad shout! Im not familar with the RB5 thats the basis of this kit so not sure what hop ups might have been available at the time but makes sense.

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How do you build something that's not bathed in blue anodised aluminium!?

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8 minutes ago, svenb said:

How do you build something that's not bathed in blue anodised aluminium!?

Ha! Good point - theres not a lot of coour variation on this build. Although Ive got something else on the go with a few bits and bobs attached to sate those blue urges. It needs wiring up properly though as its a bit of a birds nest at the moment.

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4 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Still none the wiser of what the point of step 29 was??!!??

 

56 minutes ago, Grotty Otty said:

Could it be for a future hop up of a rear anti roll bar? Nice build, quite fancy one of these. 

On the Mid, the manual calls for a similar (kind of) installation of an adjuster end into the front lower arms. I guessed the same and didn't fit it, figuring I probably wouldn't fit ARBs and if I was wrong I'd just fit it later. Having finished the build there's still nothing in the kit to fit to it. 

Seems odd to me though - why would you put in the manual to fit a part during the build rather than if/when you add the hop-up? 

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@Superluminal Most excellent build thread. I'm waiting for my DM to arrive next week.

Did you put oil in the diff or just AW grease?

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13 minutes ago, toyolien said:

@Superluminal Most excellent build thread. I'm waiting for my DM to arrive next week.

Did you put oil in the diff or just AW grease?

Just a light coating of anti wear grease. Its a bit of a tight fit inside the gear case.

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21 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

 

On the Mid, the manual calls for a similar (kind of) installation of an adjuster end into the front lower arms. I guessed the same and didn't fit it, figuring I probably wouldn't fit ARBs and if I was wrong I'd just fit it later. Having finished the build there's still nothing in the kit to fit to it. 

Seems odd to me though - why would you put in the manual to fit a part during the build rather than if/when you add the hop-up? 

Its a bit odd. The last couple of pages in the manual have a parts list of option parts for the kit and it doesnt mention stabilizers as a hop up part.

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1 minute ago, Superluminal said:

Just a light coating of anti wear grease. Its a bit of a tight fit inside the gear case.

Great, thanks. I was thinking of doing the same to mine. It'll only be a park runner and won't spend any time on a track.

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And it was all going so well.............

Bag 6 - thought id squeeze an hour in before bed for work tomorrow. This has servo link shaft, electrics and motor mounting bits.

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Step 36 - connecting up the servo to the steering link and servo mounts.

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I bought a new Alturn metal geared servo when i picked the kit up (actually bought three and i did ask if either this or the Cougar needed a low profile servo) Centred it. Attached the mounts and the servo arm.....all good. Noted the bit in the instructions about using the plastic shims if my servo was too small - measured it...dont need them. Spent ages hunting for the ball cups (the part number shown is listed for a parts tree that isnt shown anywhere) Eventually found them left over on the sprue for the turnbuckle cups.

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So far so good.

Step 37 - fit the servo in the chassis.

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And..........it doesnt fit.

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Not only does it not fit with the ball end over the ball, the steering linkage clashes with the top of the servo before its even fitted (it cant go back any further) Even with the helpful note of shaving a bit off should there be interference. 

The manual helpfully shows this at the front - which seeing it occurs after purchasing the servo.

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The distance between the lugs and the top of the casing is about 2mm too tall on the Alturn servo so I will need to get something else........bahhhhhhhhhhhhh.

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1 hour ago, toyolien said:

@Superluminal Most excellent build thread. 

Seconded. Seeing this detail is ringing bells about this buggy for me. It's everything I'd like my DT-03 to be. It's a crying shame it's the last thing I need! 

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46 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

Seconded. Seeing this detail is ringing bells about this buggy for me. It's everything I'd like my DT-03 to be. It's a crying shame it's the last thing I need! 

Well theyre in stock (new)BUGGYdad with a few places (not so subliminal)

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Moving on - my receiver i need isnt in stock yet either so will have some time to get a new servo.

Step 39 and 40, fit the motor, pinion and gear cover.

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Im using a brushed Kyosho G15 motor which is 15 turns with a HW1060 esc. Ive got a couple of these motors now and have been quite impressed with their performance. The kit comes with a 24 tooth steel pinion (steel....take note Tamiya, which you will ignore)

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Fitted in, at last something that isnt all black!!!

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The pinion is quite wide compared to the spur gear and sits very close to the motor. The cover has some excess mould bits inside which you are told to remove. They were quite tricky to get out with side cutters so end up roughly removing with a scalpel then finishing with a body reamer. When fitted it has a removable cover to access the slipper clutch adjustment nut.

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Step 41 is fitting the battery clamp, held in with two body clips.

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Last bit tonight and finishing off everything except the body (and servo)

Step 45, wheels and tyres. These come with foams and are very soft and supple. Cant see them lasting very long on a rough surface but feel like they will grip nicely.

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The drill is there as you need to drill two 3mm holes in each wheel. Speed holes.

Ta-da!

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They attach with serrated flange nuts rather than the usual nyloc nuts.

And done.......

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Can anyone reccommend a decent servo they think might fit in or prior experience of an RB5 steering set up?

 

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Very smart. I remember that bellcrank servo saver arrangement from an old Mini Inferno clone I had back in the day. Works well.

Are you local to SC Models then? I'm heading back over there later today to pick an order up myself; after realising they were only 5 miles away :lol:

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Yeah im about 20 mins from Stevenage back on the A120 towards stortford. They are really well stocked for an independant especially with hop up parts.

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