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Superluminal

Kyosho Ultima SB Dirt Master and Schumacher Cougar Classic

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1 hour ago, Sogogi said:

Its been a while since the build. How’s your experience running the car? 

:ph34r: <whispers> Its been in a box in the loft since I finshed it.

I did add some different more recent style cougar decals to try and hide the hole in the wing so should probably take some pics to finsh this thread off

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With the decals applied - theyre off of another model Cougar bit cant recall which one

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Further 2024 update to this. I had always thought the driver of my Dirtmaster looked like a miserable sod, and couldnt work out why. My recent thoughts were that he was let down by the lack of hop ups fitted to his buggy compared to his Tamiya comrades in my collection. So whats the best way to turn that frown, upside down...........(it's not drinking this time)

 

It's spending lots of cash on pointless things obviously.

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We have;

W5309GMB - VVC big bore front dampers

W5310GMB - VVC big bore rear dampers

W5309-36 - Big bore front spring

W5310-22 - Big bore rear spring

UMW523GM - Wide clamp wheel hub x2

UM522B - 65.5mm universal swing shaft

UMW704-0 - Aluminium rear hub

LAW39 - Steel suspension bush

UMW726 - Aluminium gear diff case

Ive yet to see the VVC big bores fitted to one of these and am really looking forward to see what they are like to build. I was holding out for @toyolien to build his as had collected a similar selection of parts last year but it sadly didnt materialise (i think the project was moved on)

So will it improve the drivers mood slightly 

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Lets find out.

 

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First one, the diff cover.

To remove the diff requires removing almost all if the back end of the car. I was a bit aprehensive about this as reassembling it with the millions of tiny plastic washers, each a different size was going to be even more difficult without knowing which sprue they came from.

It started like this;

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And about an hour later looked like this.

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The gearbox halves needing separating. Fortunately the slipper clutch doesnt need removing.

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The shiny alloy piece and fresh gasket

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Old plastic cover removed and new one installed

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And back together

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I imagine if you were racing one of these you would really have to hope that you never needed to remove and adjust the diff mid event. It takes forever. God bless the TA01 style gearbox covers.

Going back together theres still a very slight rub when rotating the drives from somewhere inside. It was there originally and ive read several other posts referring to the same thing. It happens when you pinch up the lower screw - it must squeeze the two halves together in that corner just a bit too much but eases off if you back the screw off slightly. Doesnt feel enough to worry about as it spins relatively freely but almost like the covers dont have enough material there - maybe the tooling has worn slightly over time.

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9 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

 I was a bit aprehensive about this as reassembling it with the millions of tiny plastic washers, each a different size was going to be even more difficult without knowing which sprue they came from.

 

When I was shopping these, I came up with the idea of painting each spacer according to size and making my own reference chart. Would that help?

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48 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

When I was shopping these, I came up with the idea of painting each spacer according to size and making my own reference chart. Would that help?

That would be a great idea! One i hadnt unfortunately thought of myself this morning....bahhhhhhhh. Im currently measuring them with calipers to make sure they go back as per the manual.

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Next is the rear suspension.

The aluminium rear hubs were reccomend by another member here (I cant recall who at the minute) to improve the reliability of the rear hub bearings. The stock kit plastic hubs feature two 1050 bearings each. 

The aluminium part contains plastic spacers that allow different sized outer bearings to be fitted.

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It even mentions on the back of the instructions that the 1050 bearings are for lightweight and the bigger 1150 and 1350 offer greater durability at the expense of weight.

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I swapped the originals out for some rubber sealed inner 1050s and outer 1150s that i had in stock. Dont recall ever using 1350 size bearings on anything before.

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I cant believe theres anyone out there who would have thought I might have won that buggy race if only my outer hub bearings were a billionth of a gram lighter. But it shows Kyosho knew there might have been a durability issue with the smaller bearing size in the plastic hubs.

Fitted;

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And the universals and steel bushes to replace the plastic ones. The plastic ones always looked like the might wear with the steel pin running in them, these look a bit better.

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And back together;

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I guessed at which hole of the four in the c hub to refit the ball stud in that connects the upper tie rod. Not sure what adjustment these would offer as the turnbuckle changes rear camber.

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The not particularly exciting hop up but one that i feel is pretty essential on most kits. Clamping hexes.

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The drive pin supplied with these is quite a bit shorter than the kit standard one. They also suffer from the same issue as a lot of other manufacturers clamping hexes do. They dont have a bottom slit to allow the clamp to act fully around the axle. Tamiya get this right and continue slot through to the other side which requires less tightening of the screw. Ive stripped the threads on ones similar to these before they actually clamp up properly although the alloy of these Kyosho ones feels a bit harder they are on and seem to be holding.

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Next up, the dampers. Ive built several sets of Kyosho gold and red dampers from the Legendary series kits as well as the stock dampers on this which were very similar to assemble as the Tamiya buggy aeration dampers.

These were totally different and nothing like what I expected.

First off the bits;

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This is what comes in the bags.

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First step is to assemble the o-rings and spacers into the aluminium pieces and then fit an aluminium cap over them.

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Assembled they look like this. It was a bit confusing as the parts arent numbered or in sequential bags.

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Next up is the pistons - they only come with one set with two holes (1.6mm dia front and 1.7mm dia rear - with an extra dimple to identify them)

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Parts, all very typical

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Then add the first assembly and the rod end

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Like so

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The plastin top caps and an o-ring need fitting to the aluminium bodies with the small vent screw.

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The finished sub assemblies prior to filling with oil look like this

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I then followed the instructions and filled them to the top with oil. I used Tamiya yellow oil as none was supplied and was what i used originally.

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Then next bit required lots of kitchen towel. The instructions say to insert the piston half way in, then push down the other part and use the supplied tool to screw it into the body. The causes about 50% of the oil to pour out down the sides.

I then realised I couldnt compress them, they were locked solid. Its not mentioned anywhere in the instructions but you need to open the bleed screw and compress it again to remove the excess oil just like a regular aeration damper, then another 25% pours out into the kitchen roll. Not the most economical design!!

 

With the springs and retainer caps fitted they look like this.

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Like the Tamiya big bores they dont come with springs, so i had to buy these seperately.

And heres how the look fitted to the chassis.

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They are very smooth and look great.

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Lastly, re fitting the body and wheels. I added some blingy gold wheel nuts I had as well.

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Only one thing left - how happy is the driver now? Well, the results speak for themselves!!!! 

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11 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Ive yet to see the VVC big bores fitted to one of these and am really looking forward to see what they are like to build. I was holding out for @toyolien to build his as had collected a similar selection of parts last year but it sadly didnt materialise (i think the project was moved on)

Yep, sorry. I did end up selling it on before I'd started it. I'd already got my TD-2 and it was very similar I decided to put the money back into something different.

I am, however, following your build with interest. Some nice hop ups going into it.

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What are those front tyres @Superluminal? Looks really smart. They look good for car park bashing! Tired (tyred?!) of wearing through studded tyres after just a couple of packs after a car park blast.

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1 hour ago, ChrisRx718 said:

What are those front tyres @Superluminal? Looks really smart. They look good for car park bashing! Tired (tyred?!) of wearing through studded tyres after just a couple of packs after a car park blast.

Theyre the stock kit front tyres that come with it, part no UMT501. Doesnt look like you can by the fronts on their own though as they come in a pack with the rears - but they do come with the foams.

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Two lovely builds you have there. 

Makes me really want to get my Cougar KD back off the shelf and get it finished.

I am actually a fan of the bag in a bag in a bag method from Schumacher. Makes doing a few steps then packing away for a day or two easier. Maybe just not 4+ years :wacko:

Look forward to see what else you end up doing with these two. 

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2 hours ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Two lovely builds you have there. 

Makes me really want to get my Cougar KD back off the shelf and get it finished.

I am actually a fan of the bag in a bag in a bag method from Schumacher. Makes doing a few steps then packing away for a day or two easier. Maybe just not 4+ years :wacko:

Look forward to see what else you end up doing with these two. 

Thank you!

Would be good to see a build thread for that Cougar KD to see how it evolved from the original.

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2 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Thank you!

Would be good to see a build thread for that Cougar KD to see how it evolved from the original.

Not sure how much of a build I could do tbh. The ‘complex’ bits were already done such as transmission and shock build. It would largely be final assembly. I may put something together though if there’s likely to be interest. I do intend to part strip what’s done as I have managed to source some Option Parts I never got around to buying originally so an element of rebuilding will be going on.

Need to finish the Tamiya bits first though.

As far as evolved. Schumacher seemed to have settled on one screw head type now!

And the body comes pre cut. That I do like!

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6 hours ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Not sure how much of a build I could do tbh. The ‘complex’ bits were already done such as transmission and shock build. It would largely be final assembly. I may put something together though if there’s likely to be interest. I do intend to part strip what’s done as I have managed to source some Option Parts I never got around to buying originally so an element of rebuilding will be going on.

Need to finish the Tamiya bits first though.

As far as evolved. Schumacher seemed to have settled on one screw head type now!

And the body comes pre cut. That I do like!

Do it for sure!!!

My favourite thing about build threads is that I might not get to own all of the cars I would like to, and seeing pics of the manual and how the individual bits go together and the different design methodology of each manufacturer is really appealing. Id definitely be interested in a thread where you strip one down and add the hop ups.

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Do it for sure!!!

My favourite thing about build threads is that I might not get to own all of the cars I would like to, and seeing pics of the manual and how the individual bits go together and the different design methodology of each manufacturer is really appealing. Id definitely be interested in a thread where you strip one down and add the hop ups.

Well, with an argument like that it’s hard not to want to do it!

Watch this space then. If I start it it’s likely to be end of May when I have some time away from work. 

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